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300WM Stuck case in Rifle

R

REL1203

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 31, 2010
406
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Centreville, VA
So over the last week or so, i have made various loads for my new 300WM R700 XCR. I have 300 or so new Remington brass but I havent broken into them yet as I wanted to go through some of my used or cheaper brass while learning about the round and what my rifle likes. I load up 25 or so using H1000, 25 or so using RE22 all using 50rounds of WW Super brass I had (all once fired). 99% of them shot fine, 2 of them after shooting them and lifting the bolt to the highest part, i had to give a very hard pull to get the bolt back. The brass looked fine, no problem there, no over pressure or anything. I guess I should add I for resizing, for the new brass or the brass that wasnt shot in my bolt rifle first, I am using a Lee Full length sizer, and a very slight crimp from a lee FCD. I move on to some other load, it was IMR4831, but I had no more of that same brass, and use some Once First 300WM brass I bought at a gun show (it was around 50 rounds or so for $15 from Georgia Arms reloaders if any of you know them). Most of it was FC or WCC. I seperate the brads, and this load was all WCC. I put them through the full length resizer and fully prep them, trim, ect... I got to load the first round and bam, I cant even get the bolt closed. I get to the point where you do the last hard push forward (where I think the extractor locks on the bottom of the case) and you start pushing the bolt towards the ground but the damn thing wont budge at all in either direction at this point. I cant extract it, I can lock the bolt, nothing. Needless to say, after 5min of trying at the range, I pack up (with the loaded round in the gun sadly) but the bolt not fully closed (rifle still on safety) and head home. I get the bolt handle wrapped in a few towles and start lighting tapping it with a rubber mallet and finally get the bolt down and round extracted, but I am really perplexed, I tried a few other rounds from the same group and none of them load, so its definitly something with all this brass, but I am trying to figure out what.

could this be the bulge related cause of the Belted case? I have a Redding Body die that I use for the rounds I neck size. I tried running a few of these rounds through the body die now, but they still wont load into the gun...

Someone help me please, what am I missing?

Thanks
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you use a case gage to check your sized brass for head space?
Do you check your sized case for O.A.L.?
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Case Guage No, i guess I need to get one now, obviously i think these wouldnt fit, but not sure what else it would tell me and how to fix them..

Overall length, they were fine, about .05 shorter than the other loads I had just shot through so COAL wasnt a factor
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

For future reference, here's an idea.

At a house paint supplier, look for a can lid lifter. It's heavy guage wire, shaped like a 'T', with a small hook/claw at the business end. When the extractor skips over the case rim and the case won't extract, slip the claw into the R/H bolt lug recess, hook onto the rim, and pull.

An alternative would be to slip a cleaning rod down/in from the muzzle and gently tap the case free.

If you've failed to get it out without blowing your blood pressure skyward, get some penetrating oil, soak the case from both ends, wait overnight, then try again. Applying enough force to distort anything will probably hurt rather than help your efforts.

Greg
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you use a case gage to check your sized brass for head space?
Do you check your sized case for O.A.L.?
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Case Guage No, i guess I need to get one now, obviously i think these wouldnt fit, but not sure what else it would tell me and how to fix them..

Overall length, they were fine, about .05 shorter than the other loads I had just shot through so COAL wasnt a factor </div></div>

OK, first off, COAL and the case O.A.L. are NOT THE SAME!
shocked.gif

One could be with in specs and the other could not.In the same round of ammo.
wink.gif


Second, a case gage checks the case before loading to see that the case OAL, and head space are correct. It will also tell you (IF you learn how to use it)if you are sizing your cases correctly.
I will be BLUNT now.....You sir, need to do MORE RESEARCH on reloading BEFORE you get hurt and tear up your junk....
Respectfully,
LG


 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will be BLUNT now.....You sir, need to do MORE RESEARCH on reloading BEFORE you get hurt and tear up your junk....</div></div>
+1 Mixing Rem, Win and WCC brass is bad. The WCC brass is much thicker than the other 2, so the powder charge will need to be reduced. Just pick one brand of brass and run with it. Using several brands will change up your load drastically.
Somewhere you are not sizing the case properly. NEVER force a round into the chamber that won't close smoothly. You are asking for trouble.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

I had the same problem with my 300WM shooting Hornady Brass. I found that when I was sizing the brass, the tip of the case would spread out just a bit, and then not crimp flush when I loaded the bullet. When the round was finished, there was an almost imperceptable flaring of the end of the case at the bullet, that would not let the round fully seat, and subsequently allow the bolt to close. I went to a die neck sizer and haven't had the problem since. Check the bullet end of your brass on the ones that don't fit and see if you are having the same problem.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

frown.gif
This is what happens when people learn everything from internet forums. +1 on everything Lumpy Grits said.
If I could add anything it would be:Why are you crimping 300Win Mag? Did someone tell you it makes them accurate?
Hey Doctor Dave you are not helping. When you sized your brass the tip, or the mouth, of the brass was flaring? When you crimped at the end of the case at the bullet there was a flare? You sure it wasn't a bulge?
You both need to take Lumpy Grits advice. This is what scares me most about the new crop of reloaders circa 2008. Someone is gonna make the news eventually and it will get even more expensive to load ammo. Read a book folks! there are plenty on the subject of reloading.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For future reference, here's an idea.

At a house paint supplier, look for a can lid lifter. It's heavy guage wire, shaped like a 'T', with a small hook/claw at the business end. When the extractor skips over the case rim and the case won't extract, slip the claw into the R/H bolt lug recess, hook onto the rim, and pull.

An alternative would be to slip a cleaning rod down/in from the muzzle and gently tap the case free.

If you've failed to get it out without blowing your blood pressure skyward, get some penetrating oil, soak the case from both ends, wait overnight, then try again. Applying enough force to distort anything will probably hurt rather than help your efforts.

Greg </div></div>

Once I got the bolt out, a really simple tap with a cleaning rod and out it came thankfully
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you use a case gage to check your sized brass for head space?
Do you check your sized case for O.A.L.?
Cheers,
LG </div></div>

Case Guage No, i guess I need to get one now, obviously i think these wouldnt fit, but not sure what else it would tell me and how to fix them..

Overall length, they were fine, about .05 shorter than the other loads I had just shot through so COAL wasnt a factor </div></div>

OK, first off, COAL and the case O.A.L. are NOT THE SAME!
shocked.gif

One could be with in specs and the other could not.In the same round of ammo.
wink.gif


Second, a case gage checks the case before loading to see that the case OAL, and head space are correct. It will also tell you (IF you learn how to use it)if you are sizing your cases correctly.
I will be BLUNT now.....You sir, need to do MORE RESEARCH on reloading BEFORE you get hurt and tear up your junk....
Respectfully,
LG


</div></div>

Yes, I do know the diffrence between COAL and and Case OAL... COAL was 3.62. Case OAL was 2.62 or less (i check length and trim accordingly). Every single one of these bullets did not exceeed either COAL or Case OAL.

As for the research, I did months of research on the 300WM before I even attempted. I got a FL resizer, a Neck resizer and the Redding body die all before i even attempted. Trust me when I say i did my due dilegence on the round and thought I had everything. This is my first Belted Magnum cause so I know its a new learning curve which is why i am asking for help with this particular problem.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lumpy grits</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will be BLUNT now.....You sir, need to do MORE RESEARCH on reloading BEFORE you get hurt and tear up your junk....</div></div>
+1 Mixing Rem, Win and WCC brass is bad. The WCC brass is much thicker than the other 2, so the powder charge will need to be reduced. Just pick one brand of brass and run with it. Using several brands will change up your load drastically.
Somewhere you are not sizing the case properly. NEVER force a round into the chamber that won't close smoothly. You are asking for trouble. </div></div>

Sorry, i must not have been clear. The pack of Once Fired brass i bought was mixed, i seperated them all by brand, and only loaded up the WCC ones (didnt mix in the FC ones). All the ones that wouldnt load were the WCC ones.

Getting these into the chamber wasnt tough, there was little force. The force only came when trying to push down the bolt handle and it wouldnt budge and then it wouldnt let me extract the bolt... It went in smooth.

As for the resizing, they were all run through a Lee Full Size resizing die that was brand new, its being loaded on a Lee Classic Turret working as a single stage for rifle rounds. The F/L sizer was screwed in till it touched the shell holder, then turned 1/5 a turn more and tightened in place.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
frown.gif
This is what happens when people learn everything from internet forums. +1 on everything Lumpy Grits said.
If I could add anything it would be:Why are you crimping 300Win Mag? Did someone tell you it makes them accurate?
Hey Doctor Dave you are not helping. When you sized your brass the tip, or the mouth, of the brass was flaring? When you crimped at the end of the case at the bullet there was a flare? You sure it wasn't a bulge?
You both need to take Lumpy Grits advice. This is what scares me most about the new crop of reloaders circa 2008. Someone is gonna make the news eventually and it will get even more expensive to load ammo. Read a book folks! there are plenty on the subject of reloading. </div></div>

OK, well, my few years of reloading and the minumum of 10 books I have read apparently didn't teach me about this particular problem and I am reaching out for some help. If you know of any book that will explain my exact problem, please do share as I would love to add it to my library. Thanks for the insightful help. Any idea what as to help me with my issue?
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

I have no experience loading a belted magnum. However, there are only two cases where I have gotten a stuck case while chambering:

1: Using once fired brass from another rifle, without FL resizing it enough.

2: Loading a bullet too long when determining the head to ogive measurement to the lands.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

I say you bulged the case with that crimp. I have done it myself when I was a kid. There is nothing special about reloading a belted magnum case that I have ever been able to tell.
If you did months of research then you should know the basics. When you extracted the case could you tell where it was binding? Did you measure the neck diameter of the loaded round? When you visually inspected it was there any scuff marks bright marks any where that may have indicated a problem? Wait a tic.....you used some once fired brass that did not come out of your gun...right? Well I guess you are not very good at research beyond a quick education on a forum. Any man who has studied enough about reloading to be any good at it at all and not be a danger to himself knows that these problems happen when you use brass that was shot in some other gun!!!!!!
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

"COAL and the case O.A.L. are NOT THE SAME!"

Well, yes, as it's stated. But, "case O.A.L." is a meaningless term. Case length, as such, is what it is; there is no OVERALL about it.

"Cartridge Over All Length" (COAL) IS the same as "Over All Length" (OAL), there is no conflict in what the two terms mean.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

"The F/L sizer was screwed in till it touched the shell holder, then turned 1/5 a turn more and tightened in place."

That's poor resizing practice; such 1-2-3 steps do NOT automatically make anything right. Die/shell holder dimensions, different press dimensions and frame/linkage/toggle spring, brass springyness, etc, all vary. We have to do what is needed and that's not possible by any simplistic "1/5 a turn more", etc., formula.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

A case isn't "into the chamber" until the bolt is closed. Any force needed to close the bolt is a certain indication there is something wrong, usually the case shoulder hasn't been pushed back far enough. It's rare for a bullet to be seated so far out it causes any great difficulty in chambering properly.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: armorpl8chikn</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
frown.gif
This is what happens when people learn everything from internet forums. +1 on everything Lumpy Grits said.
If I could add anything it would be:Why are you crimping 300Win Mag? Did someone tell you it makes them accurate?
Hey Doctor Dave you are not helping. When you sized your brass the tip, or the mouth, of the brass was flaring? When you crimped at the end of the case at the bullet there was a flare? You sure it wasn't a bulge?
You both need to take Lumpy Grits advice. This is what scares me most about the new crop of reloaders circa 2008. Someone is gonna make the news eventually and it will get even more expensive to load ammo. Read a book folks! there are plenty on the subject of reloading. </div></div>

OK, well, my few years of reloading and the minumum of 10 books I have read apparently didn't teach me about this particular problem and I am reaching out for some help. If you know of any book that will explain my exact problem, please do share as I would love to add it to my library. Thanks for the insightful help. Any idea what as to help me with my issue? </div></div>

Your opening paragraph is very difficult to read with run on sentences and confusing description. That said, I don't believe you have ten reloading publications that lack a mention of a case gauge, especially when it would be so helpful when you bought supposedly once fired brass from a fucking gunshow.

Chances are your brass was more than once fired and was insufficiently sized and overly crimped.

Some will say that a case gauge is a waste of $17.00 but the simplicity of its utility needs no strenuous advocacy from me.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

A little force is to DAMN much!
Get a case gage from Wilson before you get hurt and learn how to use it.
FWIW: I have been reloading for over 45 yrs, so this is NOT my first day......
Respectfully,
LG
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

"Case O.A.L. is from one end to the other...Simple really."

OAL is the end of anything from one end to the other, really simple! Thing about cases, bullets, primer is we don't measure them by OAL, that term is properly reserved for the combined length of the loaded round. Any use of the term OAL to a component - and a case is a component - simpy confuses a really simple idea and you will only find it used on the web.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

Hornady's manual states COL (cartridge overall length), max case length and trim to length. You will notice that as they change from bullet weight/style to bullet weight/style the COL changes.
I have just recently began to load for the 300WM again. I had brass that was fired in a TRG42 and new brass. I carefully inspected the fired brass, trimmed and FL sized. After FL sizing I inspected the case head area at and around the belt. As for a case gauge, I didn't have one so I used the chamber of the rifle as a gauge. A few cases were discarded but the rest worked flawlessly. There was no mixed brass. It was all Nosler. I know there are those who have had difficulty with Nosler but I have not as yet (used some in other cals as well).
Now for my question. There was, for a while, a company that made a die that was supposed to resize the case head right up to the belt if I remember correctly.
Does anyone remember that die, what it was for and who manufactured it?
If so, did anyone try it and what were the results?
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shoot4fun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Now for my question. There was, for a while, a company that made a die that was supposed to resize the case head right up to the belt if I remember correctly.
Does anyone remember that die, what it was for and who manufactured it?
If so, did anyone try it and what were the results?
</div></div>

Is thie what you were thinking about
http://www.larrywillis.com/

 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

so I have taken a few of my once fired brass that I shot as factory new rounds, and right above the belt the thickness is .511, almost all of them. Now I took some of the brass i bought (which OK, i get now was a bad idea, just looking to see if I can salvage it or what other type of dies I need), and all there thickness right above the belt is .513-.514, that is after a full size resize and running it through the Body die... Doesnt seem my Lee FL die is making that any smaller right above the belt...
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

Is it worth the $90? Depends upon how much brass you have and how the loads work in your rifle. The problem you describe is not unusual with the belted mags. The belt is really unnecessary, and complicates the reloading process. The chamber in your rifle is slightly smaller at the rear than the chamber the the salvaged brass was originally fired in. Most sizing dies won't correct that problem. You can check and see if Forster or RCBS makes a small base die...if so, that MIGHT correct the problem. Otherwise it is the $90 or new brass. JMHO
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

The belt is really unnecessary, and complicates the reloading process.

So true!
I do have some virgin brass for 300WM but was reusing the old too. Everything went fine in load testing. I have been thru that brass again, culled a couple more and reloaded it. Culled brass reasons were two had a pronounced ridge at the case head (telling me excessive expansion) and three had primer pockets I considered too loose. I use Redding dies, which I have found to be a little larger at the case head than RCBS (in general). The small base die was unnecessary in my situation.
The die in question seems to be a good idea. I may decide to bite on it, test and evaluate here at some point.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

I am thinking of pulling the trigger on the die, $90 is just a ton for a single die...

With that die, would you run your brass through it every time? Or would you only use it when you start having a problem? Every other time? ect...
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

" i had to give a very hard pull to get the bolt back. The brass looked fine, no problem there, no over pressure or anything."

Actually, difficult extraction is about as fine an "over pressure" sign as we could ask.

It is not uncommon for overloaded belted cases not to FL resize with normal sizers, that's why Larry Willis/Innovative Technoligies makes a collet type die for it. It's up to you to determine if it's worth the price.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

ok, i have determined that my Lee Full Length sizing die isnt sizing it down far enough, thats for sure. Its leaving 1/10 inch above the belt completely untouched. The same brass, unloaded, unprimed, wont get the bolt closed and still locks up the bolt from pulling out. This brass has expanded at the belt area enough that with the little bit that is left unresized is causing the brass not to be able to close that last little bit. As stated above, this is the reason Larry Willis has his die.

At this point, i know what I did wrong (bought brass I didnt know the history of), but my question still remains about do you use the Larry Willis die on every subsequent resizing or just every other one, ect...
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

When I still shot a .300WM, I was using a custom made size die to correct the "joys" of bringing the web back into spec.
I did use this die EVERY time I loaded my ammo.......
Cheers,
LG
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Lumpy for all your help, its much appreciated. </div></div>
NP, let's hear how it works out.
REMEMBER, if your empty case will not chamber, STOP, and figure out why, before you try a "live" round.
Good luck,
LG
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

Hey armorpl8chikn. The end of the brass flared (it was not a bulge). I do not crimp my rounds, I was merely trying to explain that the flare remained, and that is what caused my rounds not to chamber. I was just trying to illuminate another possible reason that REL1203 may be having trouble closing his bolt on some reloaded rounds. That is all. And I learned all about weapons and ammo from Uncle Sam. Most of it in SF. 18 years and counting.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

It's been my experience that .300 WinMag doesn't like swapping chambers even after a full length re-size. Seems the area around the belt gets blown out but not re-sized. At one time there was a limited production die you could buy that would re-size the belt area but the last time I checked there weren't any available. I ended up with some brass that hadn't been shot in my gun going into the junk pile. I would recommend sticking with new brass. Good luck.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> At this point, i know what I did wrong (bought brass I didnt know the history of), but my question still remains about do you use the Larry Willis die on every subsequent resizing or just every other one, ect...
</div></div>

I am about to start reloading for a 300 win mag as well, and have just purchased the larry willis die.

The top of the die is a case width gauge, you just slip a case into it, if it fits then it should fit into your chamber, if it dosent then you should use the die to resize the bulged area above the belt. At least thats the way I understand it.

I plan on checking with the case gauge after every firing, and only using it if it is needed.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: heydavemd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had the same problem with my 300WM shooting Hornady Brass. I found that when I was sizing the brass, the tip of the case would spread out just a bit, and then not crimp flush when I loaded the bullet. When the round was finished, there was an almost imperceptable flaring of the end of the case at the bullet, that would not let the round fully seat, and subsequently allow the bolt to close. I went to a die neck sizer and haven't had the problem since. Check the bullet end of your brass on the ones that don't fit and see if you are having the same problem. </div></div>
First I want to thank you for your service to our country. I am sure you know a vast amount about ammo and weapons but I am not sure you are well schooled in reloading, I did not know Uncle Sam taught that. The terminology you were using to describe the mouth of the case suggested you do not have much experience with reloading. In my defence you mentioned that the mouth of the case would not crimp flush when loading the bullet(correct term is seating the bullet). You were doing something wrong if your case mouths were even slightly flared, and though you seemed to fix it with a neck sizing die, you did not need a neck die to fix the problem. I have never had a flared case mouth on a bottleneck cartridge coming out of a sizing die. I have had a flare on the mouth of cases run through an expander die but that is not needed on bottleneck cartridges. I have been doing this reloading thing for over 29years on my own dime. Using proper terminology is tantamount to people being able to understand the problem and offer solutions. If I start spouting haphazard military terms that aren't exactly correct I am pretty sure I would have lots of guys on here on my case like a pack of hounds on a 3 legged cat.
If I came off a bit brash I appologize.
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

Guys..correct me if I'm wrong. Ha!

I was under the impression that the 300 Winchester Magnum cartridge headspaced off of the belt not the shoulder of the cartridge. This being one of the reasons this round was quite susceptable to case stretch and incipient head case seperation if not closely watched.

I'm not certain if this was addresed in this thread, but...

1. I would make sure my chamber was clean(phosphor bronze brush with solvent preferably) and wiped clean. (protect trigger assembly)

2. Like mentioned-buy a case gauge! I consider one a "must have".

3. If you are not sizing to the belt, (.10 I think was mentioned) You may be able to remove .100" from the top of your shell holder and get the sizing issue rectified.

4. Always check your brass for function in your chamber or gauge after sizing, before you charge and seat your bullets.

5. If the cartridge "fits" in your chamber and the bolt closes well, then... you finish charging and seating your bullet and the round doesn't chamber properly, you have your seating die body adjusted too deep and you are "over crimping" your brass during the seating process which would lead to a bulge in the neck area.It takes very little variance to cause problems in the chambers neck region leading to difficult chambering and possibly dangerous pressure spikes!

I hope this helps. Remember! What we are dealing with in reloading and shooting is a "CONTROLLED EXPLOSION"! Be careful! And have fun!

Wind
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

If he takes .1 off the shell holder or bottom of the die, he will set the shoulder back the same amount and wind up with separated cases. JMHO
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

If he takes .1 off the shell holder or bottom of the die, he will set the shoulder back the same amount and wind up with separated cases. JMHO

Yes! That is certainly a possibility, depending on how much he actually has to resize. He stated that he had not even sized to the belt. I'm thinking that he hasn't ever touched the shoulder yet! Time to smoke the case with some soot and see "what" is and what is not happening. I had an RCBS set that I had to modify, works fine now. I have never had a incipiant case head seperation. (Probably Cursed Now though!)

Tommy C..... NO need to bash the person, curse, and question his integrity.

Care to elaborate? I thought we were helping?
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle


This is what I used to provide that information from. I think this may be his whole problem. Maybe the wrong Shellplate or a faulty die?

I do my best to Cipher correctly! Cheers Back!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok, i have determined that my Lee Full Length sizing die isnt sizing it down far enough, thats for sure. <span style="color: #FF0000">Its leaving 1/10 inch above the belt completely untouched</span>. The same brass, unloaded, unprimed, wont get the bolt closed and still locks up the bolt from pulling out. This brass has expanded at the belt area enough that with the little bit that is left unresized is causing the brass not to be able to close that last little bit. As stated above, this is the reason Larry Willis has his die.

At this point, i know what I did wrong (bought brass I didnt know the history of), but my question still remains about do you use the Larry Willis die on every subsequent resizing or just every other one, ect... </div></div>
 
Re: 300WM Stuck case in Rifle

I was loading on a Lee Classic Turret Press, using the correct shell Holder... I think my issue will be resolved with a better sizing die, still not sure if I want to go the Larry Willis route, but i know that seems like the best idea to keep my good brass healthy (gonna throw away this purchased brass).
 
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