I only load .308 Win and am using RCBS Gold Medal Dies. I use a Full Length sizer with a .336 insert for the neck. Here is my problem. I start with clean, tumbled, fired cases that have had the primer already removed. I lube on the RCBS lube pad and resize. I am trying to only bump the shoulder back .002. I cycle the case through the resizer, clean and measure and find that the shoulder has not been bumped back the .002 I am looking for. I lube it again, size it again and it is right where I want it to be. The Rockchucker press is set to overcam about 1/8 of a turn on the sizer die. I have tried using more lube and less lube but get the same result. I have tried more overcam and get the same result. If I use less overcam I do not get the bump back I am looking for. Last week I purchased a new Gold Medal die to try another die and get the same results. On the first resizing I do feel a lot of resistance as the case enters the die for the first time and a little resistance as it is withdrawn from the die. If I clean, lube again and resize again, I feel little resistance as the case enters the die and almost no resistance at all as it is extracted. Since the second resizing gives me exactly what I want, I am thinking the die is set properly. It is possible that the case is sized properly during the first resizing but stretched back out a couple of thousands as it is being extracted? If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it!
Re: .308 Resizing problems
Does it happen to be LC machine gun brass? I've found I often have to hit those a couple times to get them sized properly.
Does it happen to be LC machine gun brass? I've found I often have to hit those a couple times to get them sized properly.
Re: .308 Resizing problems
You will get spring back with brass! And yes, if the extraction is excessivley hard you will be doing something to the brass dimensions.
If you are over cammed and it is not getting where you need to be and the a second sizing does then that is what it takes with those dies! Unless you have someone machine the desire amount off the bottom of the die.
Every set of dies has a lube bleed hole in it! Make sure that it is clear!
Also, do not lube the shoulder area. Only the case body and a wee little bit on the necks. Try sizing without the neck expander ball in it too!
Terry
You will get spring back with brass! And yes, if the extraction is excessivley hard you will be doing something to the brass dimensions.
If you are over cammed and it is not getting where you need to be and the a second sizing does then that is what it takes with those dies! Unless you have someone machine the desire amount off the bottom of the die.
Every set of dies has a lube bleed hole in it! Make sure that it is clear!
Also, do not lube the shoulder area. Only the case body and a wee little bit on the necks. Try sizing without the neck expander ball in it too!
Terry
Re: .308 Resizing problems
You could take your die to someone with a lath, and have them turn 3thou off the bottom of the die, that way you can adjust it down further and get the shoulder bump you are looking for on the first resize rather than the second.
You could take your die to someone with a lath, and have them turn 3thou off the bottom of the die, that way you can adjust it down further and get the shoulder bump you are looking for on the first resize rather than the second.
Re: .308 Resizing problems
Thanks for the reply. I thought it might be the bleed hole since the locking ring covers it up. I measured the location of the bleed hole and then drilled a hole in the locking ring to match it. Now, the hole is clear through the locking ring. Unfortunately, that did not change my results. When I lube my cases, the shoulders and necks overhang the edge of my lube pad so only the body of the case gets the lube. I am using RCBS case lube here. I add only a very slight amount of Imperial die was on the necks which I apply with my fingers before I lube the case on the lube pad. I do feel the resistance during extraction so this may be the culprit. I notice it more now with my 3 times fires cases than I did when the cases were new or during the first firing. Is this something that happens and gets worse the more times brass is fired?
Thanks for the reply. I thought it might be the bleed hole since the locking ring covers it up. I measured the location of the bleed hole and then drilled a hole in the locking ring to match it. Now, the hole is clear through the locking ring. Unfortunately, that did not change my results. When I lube my cases, the shoulders and necks overhang the edge of my lube pad so only the body of the case gets the lube. I am using RCBS case lube here. I add only a very slight amount of Imperial die was on the necks which I apply with my fingers before I lube the case on the lube pad. I do feel the resistance during extraction so this may be the culprit. I notice it more now with my 3 times fires cases than I did when the cases were new or during the first firing. Is this something that happens and gets worse the more times brass is fired?
Re: .308 Resizing problems
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Re: .308 Resizing problems
Redding Competition shell holders
Maybe look into these! Pricy $$$$ However!
Terry
Redding Competition shell holders
Maybe look into these! Pricy $$$$ However!
Terry
Re: .308 Resizing problems
I did take a look at these but I think they will work opposite of my problem. I am not getting hardly any setback and the ram is already overcamming 1/8 turn inward on the die. The Redding Shellholders are incrementally thicker than the .125 industry standard shell holders. If I were to go with a thicker holder, it would back the case out of the die and setback would be decreased. I am looking to make my die increase the setback on the first stroke. I would think I would need a thinner shellholder in order to allow the case to enter the die a little deeper. Am I thinking in the right direction?
I did take a look at these but I think they will work opposite of my problem. I am not getting hardly any setback and the ram is already overcamming 1/8 turn inward on the die. The Redding Shellholders are incrementally thicker than the .125 industry standard shell holders. If I were to go with a thicker holder, it would back the case out of the die and setback would be decreased. I am looking to make my die increase the setback on the first stroke. I would think I would need a thinner shellholder in order to allow the case to enter the die a little deeper. Am I thinking in the right direction?
Re: .308 Resizing problems
Yes, get a shell holder that is set + or - of what you need. When sizing, you need to make contact with the bottom of the die to get consistant results. I would also look at just neck sizing.
I would also lube the entire case. This will eliminate the hard spots when extracting the brass from the die. When using Imperial wax, I'll roll the case and tilt the case head onto the pad to get the neck and some on the shoulder. I don't use a lot of wax, so I won't get dimpled shoulders. If you over coat the pad, the wax will build up inside the die and cause dents. I also keep a Q-tip with some wax on the end to coat the inside of the neck every 5 or so cases (when using the expander ball). This keeps the brass running smooth over the expander ball. You will need to tumble after wax coating the inside of the neck. If not, it will cause bullets to seat very smooth on some, and rough on others, and will give you inconsistant seating.
Yes, get a shell holder that is set + or - of what you need. When sizing, you need to make contact with the bottom of the die to get consistant results. I would also look at just neck sizing.
I would also lube the entire case. This will eliminate the hard spots when extracting the brass from the die. When using Imperial wax, I'll roll the case and tilt the case head onto the pad to get the neck and some on the shoulder. I don't use a lot of wax, so I won't get dimpled shoulders. If you over coat the pad, the wax will build up inside the die and cause dents. I also keep a Q-tip with some wax on the end to coat the inside of the neck every 5 or so cases (when using the expander ball). This keeps the brass running smooth over the expander ball. You will need to tumble after wax coating the inside of the neck. If not, it will cause bullets to seat very smooth on some, and rough on others, and will give you inconsistant seating.
Re: .308 Resizing problems
If you need to go out there is no need to buy the + size shell holders. For $3 at Harbor Freight you can buy Feeler gages.
Feeler gage at Harbor freight!
They work great for setting your dies out a known distance and even better for setting your neck turner to cut your necks to the thickness you want! For the cost they are worth it! Every reloader should have a set of these!
Terry
If you need to go out there is no need to buy the + size shell holders. For $3 at Harbor Freight you can buy Feeler gages.
Feeler gage at Harbor freight!
They work great for setting your dies out a known distance and even better for setting your neck turner to cut your necks to the thickness you want! For the cost they are worth it! Every reloader should have a set of these!
Terry
