I have a browning x-bolt .308 shooting 150 grain hornady performance round . If the gun is shooting 1/2 inch low at 50 where would it be shooting at 100 and 150 yards ? Thanks !
- Thread starter Jthomas218
- Start date
Need more input....are you just going to take free advice off the internet and go shoot live animals?
My AR-10 pushing 168’s at a velocity, with a sight height .25” low at 50m has me .5” high at 100m...sight height is much different than a bolt gun and velocity and bullet are gonna make a difference even at 100 yards. Pure straight out of my butt guess is that .5” low at 50 yards on your gun is gonna be slightly low at 100 yards and probably close to 1.5” low at 150 yards. It’s not hard to find a 100 yard range to confirm zero, I’d recommend you do that.
My AR-10 pushing 168’s at a velocity, with a sight height .25” low at 50m has me .5” high at 100m...sight height is much different than a bolt gun and velocity and bullet are gonna make a difference even at 100 yards. Pure straight out of my butt guess is that .5” low at 50 yards on your gun is gonna be slightly low at 100 yards and probably close to 1.5” low at 150 yards. It’s not hard to find a 100 yard range to confirm zero, I’d recommend you do that.
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JBM - Calculations - Trajectory (Simplified)
www.jbmballistics.com 
308 shoot flat out to 308 yards, then hold one inch for every 100 yards. Make sure you jerk that trigger quick to make sure the rifle doesn’t have time to move before you break your shot
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1 inch rings oh the gun as well ... I’ve shot this gun at 100 and it was 1 inch high . The 50 yard ballistics don’t add up to where it should be at . Just trying to see if I’m calculating the ballistics wrong before I waste money on ammo
Jerk the jerk ?
Thank youJBM - Calculations - Trajectory (Simplified)
1” rings and your ballistics don’t add up. Imagine that. I don’t think you understand how this works.
Where are the 1” rings at in relation to the center of the barrel?
Your light 308 in Super Performance is super fast out of most 24-26” barrels. this is not your standard 2650 175 grain 308 ammo, it closer to 3,000 fps.
300 and in drop almost all velocity based as mentioned in the other thread. While the slower ammo might work closer to the 1/2” low at 50, the nearly 3000 Fps 150grain hornady will not. It will act much closer to the magnum rounds.
run a 100 yard zero- it will do several things for you. 1, it is easier to see the real size of your group and thus find the true center and you’ll find your zero offset (distance away from your mechanical zero) easier. 2, you’ll find all these math discussions far easier as well as not mixing come-ups and hold unders.
That’s why I’m asking for advice ....... why doesn’t it add up ?
Good point . I think the regular hornady whitetail ammo at the same weight is 2700fps
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What he is getting at is that you haven't given us your scope height above boreline. We need that and your actual speed to tell you. Until then everyone's answers will be a best guess.
The JBMballistics site I referenced will help you make sense of what you are seeing as long as you plug in the correct info.
^ Fuck me.. I swear, there is alway one..
I don’t zero; but when I do...... I dial 1/2mil left and hold right!
I used to think this was a LR PR forum......
lately, this seems more appropriate.
I don’t zero; but when I do...... I dial 1/2mil left and hold right!
I used to think this was a LR PR forum......
lately, this seems more appropriate.
Well shit, if it’s on the box and the same weight run with it.
Please, either learn more about how ballistics work or go shoot it on a known distance range to find out. Even the best ballistics app with current weather data applied needs to get verified with your rifle/bullets/velocity/and actual BC. Wanting to save a few bucks on ammo is going to lead to wounded and lost animals at worst and crappy shots at best.
Listen to what diver and skookum are saying. In particular, a lot of questions will be answered when you notate real shots when compared to JBM inputs. JBM is right on. It will help you figure out where you're going to hit, but you have to follow each block exactly. Meaning: if you have high see-through rings, Don't put 1.5" in the scope above bore! Measure it! Get temps and altitude CORRECT, and it will pay off for you.
That said, BC doesn't mean a whole lot from 0-300 yds., but, actual velocity DOES. If you have a way to shoot 300, compare it to 100 and see if you can get a better idea of what your rifle shoots the ammo at instead of what it says on the box. Start high at 100 and expect up to 15" at 300. Allow for at least that much drop. Punch those numbers into JBM and you will have a better idea what your rifle is actually shooting that ammo for velocity.
Once you get that, then it's time to figure out your zero setting for how far you want to shoot. Everything beyond that, you still need to really know your ballistics.
That said, BC doesn't mean a whole lot from 0-300 yds., but, actual velocity DOES. If you have a way to shoot 300, compare it to 100 and see if you can get a better idea of what your rifle shoots the ammo at instead of what it says on the box. Start high at 100 and expect up to 15" at 300. Allow for at least that much drop. Punch those numbers into JBM and you will have a better idea what your rifle is actually shooting that ammo for velocity.
Once you get that, then it's time to figure out your zero setting for how far you want to shoot. Everything beyond that, you still need to really know your ballistics.
Gotcha . I’ll have to measure it . I know I have 1 inch medium rings with a leupold vxr 3-9x40 but I can’t say exactly what the height is for sure
Im trying to learn but apparently there’s people who just want to be arrogant.
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Thanks just trying to take all this in ... I won’t take a shot past 100 right now since that’s as far as I’ve shot the gun . And know where it will hit . Probably won’t shoot past 250 ever to be honest . The terrain doesn’t permit shots longer than that where I hunt ...
Just aim "top of the back," you'll be fine...
Or you could zero at 100y. Measure your muzzle velocity, and be able to calculate your drop and drift (jbm ballistics is free online trajectory software) from 0y to any range you have business shooting at a game animal.
Or you could zero at 100y. Measure your muzzle velocity, and be able to calculate your drop and drift (jbm ballistics is free online trajectory software) from 0y to any range you have business shooting at a game animal.
That’s whAt I’ve read and been told . But I need to get to a range and see where I’m at for 200 yards . I shot this buck last week at 95 yards . Hit him perfect he only went 20 yards with the gun I’m talking about I hit him right behind the shoulder where I was aiming ... I’m not a newbie to hunting, and I know how to shoot just inquiring about shooting at longer ranges is all. Seems a lot of guys on here want to bash a guy for trying to learn . I’m not a sniper, don’t want to be just interested in pushing my gun a little farther and want to make sure I’m doing things right .
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People are not bashing you, the pushback you are seeing is towards the others that seem to promote not taking the time to learn.
the “its only hunting“ is a sad state, it should be even more serious than targets. I’ve seen a lot of bad hunting shots, some very embarrassing if not unethical and wounded animals.
Actually, I think you are approaching this well. @sea2summit wasn’t giving you bad advice, or being a dick.. Bad advice is more in the camp as “your close enough”... why do that if you are here to learn more. Right?
Yep, that’s me because you know so much about me.
Do you have Amazon prime/Kendle books?
You’re probably right .. I want to learn that’s why I’m on here. I have no interest in shooting 500 or 600 yards but I would like to be confident in taking a 300-350 yard shot on an animal if I had the shot . Usually that would only be on a Coyote or a deer in a cut corn or bean field . I’m all ears but I do want the right advice not just “you should be close”
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I’ve got prime
Find Bryan Litz’ books. One day reads, subscribe to kindle for a month like $10 and read all of them. You’ll understand everything we’re talking about.
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Thanks
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Jerk the trigger. Post to make sure it’s The most accurate information
In all seriousness, zero your rifle at 100 yards, get a man size cardboard target and set it up at 200 yards and 300 yards. Draw a dot on the head, aim at that and shoot it. Measure your drop. Now you know what your come ups need to be. Each ammo shoots differently. Don’t expect each ammo to act the same.
@Jthomas218
Which scope? If it is a set it and forget it scope then sight in 1.5” to 2” high at 100 yards. Your holdovers will be much less and easier to compensate for past 300 yards for those rarer occasions you may ever shoot that far at game. Point and shoot to 225 yards.
Do not listen to the boneheads saying zero at 100 unless you have a scope with exposed turrets meant to dial then by all means zeroing at 100 yards is the best way to go. Other than that keep it near 2” high and put meat on the table my friend.
Which scope? If it is a set it and forget it scope then sight in 1.5” to 2” high at 100 yards. Your holdovers will be much less and easier to compensate for past 300 yards for those rarer occasions you may ever shoot that far at game. Point and shoot to 225 yards.
Do not listen to the boneheads saying zero at 100 unless you have a scope with exposed turrets meant to dial then by all means zeroing at 100 yards is the best way to go. Other than that keep it near 2” high and put meat on the table my friend.
You have come to a site that deals primarily with the application of precision rifle fire at extended ranges. There is actually much you can learn here.
So, to help you along, please explain your setup.
I'm going to make an assumption, you have a rifle from a big box store, that you purchased with an inexpensive scope already mounted and bore sighted.
There is NOTHING wrong with that in light of your intended use, but you have come to a forum where folks routinely spend 3500 bucks for a tactical riflescope, we tend to apply things a bit differently here.
If you are running a typical hunting scope, they are not normally geared towards dialing in the field. What you would want to do is zero for maximum point blank range.
A bullet travels in a parabolic arch. It does not "rise" when it leaves the barrel, the barrel is pointed skyward for any shot, as the bullet begins to drop as soon as it leaves the bore.
Your goal is to zero the rifle at a distance so that you can aim without holdovers or hold unders and strike within a 10" circle or so.
For that information, you will need your bullet diameter, velocity, ballistic coefficient, altitude, scope center height above bore, temperature and even atmospheric pressure, though you can use the standard and come close.
The old rule of thumb, zero 3" high at 100 yards is actually pretty decent advice. That would get you to near 300 yards with a dead hold.
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You keep arguing the same stuff over and over. Please share some of your credentials that shows your know so much more than the "boneheads saying zero at 100". Maybe some matches you have won, maybe just a score card from some. Please share something that shows you are more knowledgeable than most of the top shooters, instructors etc..
The answer is know what your bullet does and is going to do. Not, just go back twenty years.. I believe that is why Jthomas218 is asking the questions. He is interested in being a better shooter and hunter, through increasing his knowledge base. Most of us are interested in getting better as well. My Hat is off to him for joining and asking, while keeping his cool as he tries to filter the feedback. The idea that shooters can sit at a bench and shoot rough groups then under field conditions, with uncertain wind, extend their range 3x for a DRT shot is ridicules, especially once you ad in sticks, movement etc.
Scopes are so cheap, there is no excuse for not getting something with subtensions - you do not need "exposed turrets" to benefit from knowing you need 1.2mils at 300 with your 308. Not sure wade why you keep focusing on exposed turrets..
I hunted with a duplex (NV 1-6x) the night before last, I am not saying things can't get done with them, but things are better with better gear and the practice that goes along with it.
Somewhere along the line, the old 1" high at 100y, what was ok for 200 yards, now seems to be pushed to 1.5-2" high at 100 and 300 yards. With better gear and training, ethical hunting ranges have increased many times over.. Still 300 yards is further than 99% of the unpracticed, unaware shooters should shoot..
BTW we also host a hunters course in Avenal in Central CA. Not a single hunter that used to believe in the old ways still shoots the COF with the zero offset suggested in this thread. But we have at least 1 guy in his 70's has used what he has learned to complete his RAM Grand Slam.. He has become a hell of a shot! Actually we have a lot of very good hunters that attend.
The course is 50-60 shots 1 shot per target, prone or off sticks (if you wish) as you hike along natural terrain. Very much like Whittington New Mexico. Thru the year we host other formats as well, PRS Region Qualifier, PRS club style, Hunter and just added our UKD Field Matches. We welcome all shooters, PM me if anyone is interested in hearing more. You can also what the SH Local matches for more on us and Avenal. Here the match 2 weeks ago. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/great-team-match-is-full the next is in December and will have a hunter component if you contact us in advance.
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Something of note for jthomas218, as txwelder said, they won't shoot the same. Different barrels will also move point of impact left or right depending on the bullet used. Just be aware of it and it won't freak you out.
Added: Meaning adjust to the bullet you want to use. NOT the bullets you are testing out and don't want to use.
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JT you should re-read this thread a few times
you have some VERY experienced trigger pullers giving you advice
and for once most everyone is trying to help lol
you have some VERY experienced trigger pullers giving you advice
and for once most everyone is trying to help lol
WDM Bell never one a single PRS match.
Of course, neither did Elmer Keith or jack O'Connor
If the scope has a milling reticle and/or exposed turrets the 100 yard zero is best. We all agree. This is the vast minority of scopes on top of hunting rifles. No argument with the 100 yard zero here and shooting the numbers.
You for some reason don’t understand that most hunters, I am assuming the OP is included in that, do not have a milling reticle in their scope. This is fine and perfectly acceptable REGARDLESS of your thoughts. If this is the scope that is on a man’s rifle, sighting in the rifle roughly 2” high is by far and away better than a 100 yard zero. There are no Hold unders needed and only small holdovers at 350 yards. Most hunters are not marksman. They have no desire to be. They like to hunt. Most don’t care to shoot. Big difference. Most hunters won’t fire a shot beyond A couple hundred yards. Even with a milling reticle most are not capable of making the far shots on a living breathing animal (buck fever if you will) out of a blind Or tree stand where the increased heart rate and lack of bags and bipods and all the other gear to steady the rifle aren’t present. This is what you need to understand.
I am not a competition PRS shooter. Don’t have the desire to do so. A successful match shooter has nothing to do with being a successful hunter. A top PRS shooter is not a top hunter. You can stop with that bullcrap right now. I have my own 900 yard range At the house and shoot for fun. I take around 10 deer/hogs/audad/sheep every year. I am successful with my milling reticles with a 100 yard zero as I am with my Leupolds with my 2” high at 100 yards. Range time is needed to be proficient with either system. BOTH ARE CORRECT. Depends in which scope a man has. This you should concede.
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@wade2big brings up a good point. The scope itself is going to dictate a lot about how far you can actually precisely aim at an animal
So:
1. you have a straight crosshair scope with second focal plane (SFP)* This you use a point of aim/point of impact method in which you never go outside a "kill zone" of the animal you are hunting. You zero as high as you can without ever going over or shoot beyond where you go under the "kill zone". All unscoped military rifles use this system to get hits in the "kill zone"
*(most scopes are second focal plane) where the reticle stays the same size in the scope as the power increases or decreases. Note that as the target gets bigger/smaller in relation to power change, the reticle, being the same size, represents a different size relationship to the target. FFP, or first focal plane, the reticle always remains the same size in relation to the target. But, grows or decreases in size in your scope.
2. You have a duplex reticle with variable power. Various manufacturers have different names for it, but it's basically a thick crosshair that changes to a very thin crosshair in the middle where they cross. 99.9% of these are SFP. At various powers you can note through the scope it will give different measurements when sighted on a 1" incremented target. If you know your ballistics you can sight these in at 100 and use the lower point to hold for shooting farther out. Again, knowing your ballistics and the measure of the scope at the power you are on is the key. A big mistake here is people go higher power and the measurement decreases, i.e. they shoot under as they are not holding high enough.
To extend range with these takes practice and self discipline to ensure you are keeping the measurements (Subtensions) right as the power changes.
3. You have a mil-rad or moa demarcated scope. SFP Again, knowing the power you are on is the key to a precise placement. Knowing your ballistics (as all the above mentioned scopes) is key again. The bullet is going to drop no matter what you shoot and 300 it needs to be compensated for.
4. #3 but, FFP. Same thing but no math conversion when changing power. Reticle stays same measurement on animal.
To compensate, there are two tried and true methods that work.
Zero high at 100 (still a 100 yd. zero) and KNOW what it falls at shorter, and where it falls at longer ranges WITHIN THE "KILL ZONE".
Use the stadia/mil-dots in a scope (at a given power using SFP/duplex and any power FFP) to KNOW the holds at given ranges.
Where you can shoot either of those methods is YOUR LIMIT. Practice and you will see where your limit sits at.
So:
1. you have a straight crosshair scope with second focal plane (SFP)* This you use a point of aim/point of impact method in which you never go outside a "kill zone" of the animal you are hunting. You zero as high as you can without ever going over or shoot beyond where you go under the "kill zone". All unscoped military rifles use this system to get hits in the "kill zone"
*(most scopes are second focal plane) where the reticle stays the same size in the scope as the power increases or decreases. Note that as the target gets bigger/smaller in relation to power change, the reticle, being the same size, represents a different size relationship to the target. FFP, or first focal plane, the reticle always remains the same size in relation to the target. But, grows or decreases in size in your scope.
2. You have a duplex reticle with variable power. Various manufacturers have different names for it, but it's basically a thick crosshair that changes to a very thin crosshair in the middle where they cross. 99.9% of these are SFP. At various powers you can note through the scope it will give different measurements when sighted on a 1" incremented target. If you know your ballistics you can sight these in at 100 and use the lower point to hold for shooting farther out. Again, knowing your ballistics and the measure of the scope at the power you are on is the key. A big mistake here is people go higher power and the measurement decreases, i.e. they shoot under as they are not holding high enough.
To extend range with these takes practice and self discipline to ensure you are keeping the measurements (Subtensions) right as the power changes.
3. You have a mil-rad or moa demarcated scope. SFP Again, knowing the power you are on is the key to a precise placement. Knowing your ballistics (as all the above mentioned scopes) is key again. The bullet is going to drop no matter what you shoot and 300 it needs to be compensated for.
4. #3 but, FFP. Same thing but no math conversion when changing power. Reticle stays same measurement on animal.
To compensate, there are two tried and true methods that work.
Zero high at 100 (still a 100 yd. zero) and KNOW what it falls at shorter, and where it falls at longer ranges WITHIN THE "KILL ZONE".
Use the stadia/mil-dots in a scope (at a given power using SFP/duplex and any power FFP) to KNOW the holds at given ranges.
Where you can shoot either of those methods is YOUR LIMIT. Practice and you will see where your limit sits at.
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OP you really got 2 choices...pick a set up for your hunting tasks (open country/longer range vs heavy brush/trees, etc)
based on your scope, option 1 might be the current easiest route
1) zero 1-1.5" high at 100, verify at 50 and 200...likely will be within 1" at both ranges....leave it set...then limit yourself to sub 225 yd vital shots (dont get fancy) on medium game unless you can verify further and build that proficiency and confidence on small hold overs
2) get a different scope either with dialable and reliable turrets and/or a reticle that can be used for holds for precise adjustments...preferably mil/mil or moa/moa, long as the turrets/reticle match....BDC types can be used, but they dont always line up nice depending on ammos and you will likely have to shoot to verify hold points anyways...either of these choices going FFP will reduce the chance of power setting throwing you off in a hurry when you start holding and using the reticle...going this route will have a slower learning curve from where youre at based on your comments, but you gotta start somewhere and the info and training are out there...it will also go a long way in helping you learn and understand more about ballistics and why things happen how they do
the last 3 rifles i took animals with in the past few weeks ago are all completely different setups
1) full custom build w/ a 4-32x nx8 on top zero'd at 100 yds w/ full ballistic profile...have verified dope to 1120 yds
2) AR15 with a 3x prism sight zero'd at 50 yds
3) single shot winchester 1885 w/ 3-9x duplex sightron zero'd at 225 which puts it 1" @ 200, 1.7" high @ 100 , and 1/2" @ 50...basically point and shoot to 250 yds
1) i can take anywhere and hit whatever i can make a good, confident shot on
2) i use for blasting up groups of pigs inside 150 yds
3) i use in south tx brush where the only way to get a shot further than 200 yds is to set up on a road or a sendero and plan for it on purpose...i limit myself to 250 yds with it from semi supported positions
just know the role
if someone wants to set up some 8-10" vital sized plates from 0-250 yds, ill shoot em with option 3 for as much ammo as you wanna provide...i bet the hit % wont be low
based on your scope, option 1 might be the current easiest route
1) zero 1-1.5" high at 100, verify at 50 and 200...likely will be within 1" at both ranges....leave it set...then limit yourself to sub 225 yd vital shots (dont get fancy) on medium game unless you can verify further and build that proficiency and confidence on small hold overs
2) get a different scope either with dialable and reliable turrets and/or a reticle that can be used for holds for precise adjustments...preferably mil/mil or moa/moa, long as the turrets/reticle match....BDC types can be used, but they dont always line up nice depending on ammos and you will likely have to shoot to verify hold points anyways...either of these choices going FFP will reduce the chance of power setting throwing you off in a hurry when you start holding and using the reticle...going this route will have a slower learning curve from where youre at based on your comments, but you gotta start somewhere and the info and training are out there...it will also go a long way in helping you learn and understand more about ballistics and why things happen how they do
the last 3 rifles i took animals with in the past few weeks ago are all completely different setups
1) full custom build w/ a 4-32x nx8 on top zero'd at 100 yds w/ full ballistic profile...have verified dope to 1120 yds
2) AR15 with a 3x prism sight zero'd at 50 yds
3) single shot winchester 1885 w/ 3-9x duplex sightron zero'd at 225 which puts it 1" @ 200, 1.7" high @ 100 , and 1/2" @ 50...basically point and shoot to 250 yds
1) i can take anywhere and hit whatever i can make a good, confident shot on
2) i use for blasting up groups of pigs inside 150 yds
3) i use in south tx brush where the only way to get a shot further than 200 yds is to set up on a road or a sendero and plan for it on purpose...i limit myself to 250 yds with it from semi supported positions
just know the role
if someone wants to set up some 8-10" vital sized plates from 0-250 yds, ill shoot em with option 3 for as much ammo as you wanna provide...i bet the hit % wont be low
Like I have said, This is a LR PR forum and the guy is here coming for help. While guys have made amazing things happen with duplex scopes, that's not the best answer for todays hunter who is interested in extending their range or learning ballistics. 300 is not close, especially when one does not understand or has the practice nailed regarding velocity/zeros etc.
Yes, I learned and hunted with a duplex, I learned to map the duplex reticle as well... Skookum just took an amazingly long harvest with a duplex because that all he brought on his trip (they had some skill to do so). Because something died, was that the best tool for the job? Because a few guys were amazing, using old tech after decades of work via trial and error, does than mean a newer shooter needs to emulate that model.. So O'conner in the 30's & 40's was great... sad you guys had to go 80+ years or anywhere near that far back...
You guys need to get out of the weeds with the FUD thinking. 300 and out is long. Not using even cheap ass tools readily available such as a bargin priced scope with some sort of subtensions, is not the answer for this forum.
If the shooter is starting out and interested in LR Precision (hunting or not); The easiest way to learn ballistics is by being taught best practices. Making something work, isn't always best practices. Understanding exactly what's going on and using that knowledge is key.. Talking the same language, practicing and reaching out on ways to improve are key.
The OP already knows how to kill something, he is asking how to improve his longer range capabilities.. Even keeping his SFP duplex, running a more moderate zero and PBR and learning how to map his duplex reticle is better than the advice you are giving and saying he is GTG at 300.
I didn't ask for anything more than credentials that would give us context on why wades' advice is better than just about every top long range instructor / shooter - nothing about a "PRS" match was asked.. Strike a cord?
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I was writing my response as you posted.. ya, funny how so few people know about mapping.. your #2, you can do it with with a duplex that has any parts that have thickness variations
FYI - in many cases a duplex or Red Dot is the best tool for the job.. never will you hear me argue against them for close range work.
You are still clueless and clearly irrational on this subject. I would walk out of a class if the shooting instructor spewed your nonsense
This thread has nothing to do with long range precision you keep referring to. It is about a short range hunting zero with the .308. The OP even stated i this thread that 250 yards is his max. Good grief.
my response was in regards to assertion that only someone that is a credentialed competitor can impart knowledge.
That is bullshit.
I know plenty of hunters that fill their tags every year, yet have never competed.
Your blindness to the fact that other people may have input is quite telling.
I asked for credentials wade replied.
there was a lot of very good input, just some that was not the best.
look - if some ones said “1 high at 100 and reduce your distance until you can create great groups at 200 yards and keep your PBZ at a reasonable range that you’ve practiced over and over that’s one thing - that’s not the gist of the 1.5-2” and your gtg at 300 is it
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I tried to read this all and got bogged down in the several descriptions of the same thing. So I skipped to the end, and tried to get it simpler.
You're basically looking for something closely related to MPBR or Maximum Point Blank Range. The meaning here is that you want the bullet, aimed at a target within a reasonable range of hunting distances, to be no more than a small given vertical deviation from the point of aim. That's fine, but it's also sometimes rather limiting.
it stems from the simple fact that the optical axis and the bore axis are at an angle which directs the bullet to cross the line of sight twice; once up closer, and then back down to intersect with the target at the zero distance. For some arbitrary distance before and after that zero distance, the bullet is in the vertical vicinity of the optical axis, so (arbitrarily) a rifle sighted at 200yd, will probably be within 6 inches above at 100yd, and within 6 inches below at around 250yd. These are conjectural numbers, not real ones, but they illustrate the principal in an overly simplified manner.
You can follow the above descriptions and techniques and get quite functional data and aiming solutions.
There is an "easy button". It's called a Bullet Drop Compensation (BDC) riflescope reticle.
This product can allow you to convert a Laser Rangefinder (LRF) reading into a pretty accurate aiming solution. There are many like it. I have some of these on some of my AR's and Bolt Guns. At known distance steel targets, I can switch aim from 100, to 200, to 300yd and fire each distance, obtaining hits in well under a minute for the three shots. Many of these have reticle choices with aiming points at 100yd increments out to 500yd, and can be finagled to provide another one at 600yd. You zero at one of the distances that the reticle provides as aiming points, and the aiming points for the other distances become usable. Note also that the variable magnification versions will have a specific magnification setting where the reticle is effective.
For your rifle, I'd get a 308 reticle, and substitute the 150gr load with a 165gr load, putting the scope and cartridge ballistics into a close sync. My solution for my 308 bolt gun is this. I just put another one on my PSA PA-10 20" 308 Upper. I have similar 223-related scopes on my 223 bolt and AR rifles. They are not BR perfect. but they are minute of Venison accurate.
Away from the KD range, the LRF can be used in conjunction with the Range Card to preestablish known distances for visible landmarks within your rifle's available accuracy range; references for use with the Range Card adding speed and precision to your hunt.
The main point to all of this is that it allows the shooter to employs the basic principles in conjunction with some handy and affordable mechanical aids, and manage to come up with aiming solutions in a timely manner.
To find the height of the scope above the bore, divide the scope tube diameter by 2, the bolt diameter by 2, add them together with the height of the scope tube above the bolt, and you have a close enough figure to put into a ballistics application. Yeah, you could get it more precise, but this is plenty good enough.
I've had credentials, and they all meant something the day they were bestowed. These days, all I've got that's worth anything to me in that department is my reputation, and that varies a whole lot depending on who you ask. It is for this reason that I do not inquire of or require credentials from any other.
Greg
You're basically looking for something closely related to MPBR or Maximum Point Blank Range. The meaning here is that you want the bullet, aimed at a target within a reasonable range of hunting distances, to be no more than a small given vertical deviation from the point of aim. That's fine, but it's also sometimes rather limiting.
it stems from the simple fact that the optical axis and the bore axis are at an angle which directs the bullet to cross the line of sight twice; once up closer, and then back down to intersect with the target at the zero distance. For some arbitrary distance before and after that zero distance, the bullet is in the vertical vicinity of the optical axis, so (arbitrarily) a rifle sighted at 200yd, will probably be within 6 inches above at 100yd, and within 6 inches below at around 250yd. These are conjectural numbers, not real ones, but they illustrate the principal in an overly simplified manner.
You can follow the above descriptions and techniques and get quite functional data and aiming solutions.
There is an "easy button". It's called a Bullet Drop Compensation (BDC) riflescope reticle.
This product can allow you to convert a Laser Rangefinder (LRF) reading into a pretty accurate aiming solution. There are many like it. I have some of these on some of my AR's and Bolt Guns. At known distance steel targets, I can switch aim from 100, to 200, to 300yd and fire each distance, obtaining hits in well under a minute for the three shots. Many of these have reticle choices with aiming points at 100yd increments out to 500yd, and can be finagled to provide another one at 600yd. You zero at one of the distances that the reticle provides as aiming points, and the aiming points for the other distances become usable. Note also that the variable magnification versions will have a specific magnification setting where the reticle is effective.
For your rifle, I'd get a 308 reticle, and substitute the 150gr load with a 165gr load, putting the scope and cartridge ballistics into a close sync. My solution for my 308 bolt gun is this. I just put another one on my PSA PA-10 20" 308 Upper. I have similar 223-related scopes on my 223 bolt and AR rifles. They are not BR perfect. but they are minute of Venison accurate.
Away from the KD range, the LRF can be used in conjunction with the Range Card to preestablish known distances for visible landmarks within your rifle's available accuracy range; references for use with the Range Card adding speed and precision to your hunt.
The main point to all of this is that it allows the shooter to employs the basic principles in conjunction with some handy and affordable mechanical aids, and manage to come up with aiming solutions in a timely manner.
To find the height of the scope above the bore, divide the scope tube diameter by 2, the bolt diameter by 2, add them together with the height of the scope tube above the bolt, and you have a close enough figure to put into a ballistics application. Yeah, you could get it more precise, but this is plenty good enough.
I've had credentials, and they all meant something the day they were bestowed. These days, all I've got that's worth anything to me in that department is my reputation, and that varies a whole lot depending on who you ask. It is for this reason that I do not inquire of or require credentials from any other.
Greg
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troll of the year
Child abuse!
Teaching a left eyed kid to shoot right handed.
obviously I am too stoopid to figger out how to insert a quote from post #14
Teaching a left eyed kid to shoot right handed.
obviously I am too stoopid to figger out how to insert a quote from post #14
Why are credentials so important?
According to all the "experts" Hillary Clinton is qualified to be President but Donald Trump is not, because she has "credentials".
Again, if a guy has a 40 dollar 3-9 power duplex scope, telling him to zero at 100 and know his come-ups for given distances and dial a solution isn't really going to work for him.
Your advice to practice and practice shooting at distance is spot on.
Credentials don't mean shit to actual application.
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