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338 Lapua Die Set Questions

Blacktical

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 26, 2013
70
1
OH
First off this is my first post here at Sniper's Hide. There's a wealth of information here and I'm happy to have found it.

I've recently started diving into the world of reloading and have tried my best to do my due diligence of reading the in's and out's of do's and don'ts.

Recently I've been lucky enough to pick up a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme reloading kit along with a digital scale, calipers, and a ammo box that holds 338 Lapua both bullet up and down.

Now the question here is this: I ordered a set of 338 Lapua dies that were in stock (see here) because I thought it was all I was going to be able to find for a while. While, Murphy's Law be as it may I found a Lyman carbide set (see here) and ordered them as well incase they went out of stock.

Now I've read that carbide is more desirable than regular dies due to the fact that you no longer need to lube the brass during the process of reloading. That being said, only one of the dies is listed as being carbide. I know Redding and Forester seem to be THE dies to have around here but for now I'm going with what I can get my hands on.

For those of you looking for the question and no bs read below.

Should I return the Lyman die set or the Lee set?

Thanks for all the help you guys have already given me without even realizing it, hope to have a good time here!
 
To be honest I wouldn't consider using a carbide die. The case NEEDS to be lubricated. I only use carbide dies to resize pistol and revolver brass. I would never even try to resize a large rifle case without lube. I would return the Lyman. Buy once-cry once. I use Redding dies.

Lapua brass is expenive and worth every penny. Treat it right and it will last beyond 10-15 reloads.
 
To be honest I wouldn't consider using a carbide die. The case NEEDS to be lubricated. I only use carbide dies to resize pistol and revolver brass. I would never even try to resize a large rifle case without lube. I would return the Lyman. Buy once-cry once. I use Redding dies.

Lapua brass is expenive and worth every penny. Treat it right and it will last beyond 10-15 reloads.

I've been trying to find Redding dies in stock but for the life of me cannot seem to find them. Any ideas where I could find some?

Thanks for the info on lubing the cases, hadn't read that anywhere until now but it does make sense - you saved me a big and costly mistake.
 
Try: Sinclair, Widener's, Midsouth shooting supplies,Graf's,Relaoding International.com, Hart&Sons and Bruno's shooting supplies,Champions Choice, Creedmore Sports. Don't skimp-RCBS dies will serve you well as will Forstner's and CH4D too. google is your friend. Good Luck.
 
I've got the Redding Body die and Redding S-type neck die, but then I've got the RCBS competition bullet seating die because I really like the bullet loading window with the micrometer adjustment on them. They all seem to be reall good quality for the 338LM
 
That is not a carbide resizing die. The expander ball is what is carbide. You still need to lube your cases with that die.

Even if it was carbide, like some of the Dillon dies, you still need to use lube.
 
To be honest I wouldn't consider using a carbide die. The case NEEDS to be lubricated. I only use carbide dies to resize pistol and revolver brass. I would never even try to resize a large rifle case without lube. I would return the Lyman. Buy once-cry once. I use Redding dies.

Lapua brass is expenive and worth every penny. Treat it right and it will last beyond 10-15 reloads.

Agree with Arclight. Use carbide in my pistols and I used to get the occasional stuck case. Now I use silicone spray on my pistol brass, wax on my rifle, and I clean them out after a loading spree (200-500 rounds).
 
Bumping shoulders back is the sole reason for its existence.

Well...that and bumping shoulders back on already loaded ammunition.

Chris

Haha, was just wondering because some dies are better for bumping shoulders than others. Thanks for the info though Chris. Ill have to look into getting one for bumping shoulders, as the one I have isn't cutting it lol

-Branden
 
Another quick question, I accidentally bought Federal #210 primers instead of #215. Will these primers work ok for my .338 Lapua?
 
Another quick question, I accidentally bought Federal #210 primers instead of #215. Will these primers work ok for my .338 Lapua?

It's a magnum cartridge with roughly 90-100grs of powder. I'm sure that there are people who go against the 'books' and 'conventional wisdom' and use standard primers in big magnum carts, but God created magnum primers for a reason, no?

Go out and find magnum primers and use them.

You wouldn't buy a Ferrari and put skinny tires on it, would you?

Chris
 
It's a magnum cartridge with roughly 90-100grs of powder. I'm sure that there are people who go against the 'books' and 'conventional wisdom' and use standard primers in big magnum carts, but God created magnum primers for a reason, no?

Go out and find magnum primers and use them.

You wouldn't buy a Ferrari and put skinny tires on it, would you?

Chris

Kinda my thought process on the whole thing but figured I'd ask to be sure. Now the only problem right now is finding the #215 primers...
 
Hey Shadow...I'm late checking back in here and it looks like Garrett has answered your question. But yes...Redding body die is wonderful for bumping the shoulder back on loaded/unloaded cases. And +1 on going with 215's. 210 just won't cut it especially if you're using ball powders, or shoot in cold weather..or.....yeah...just use the magnum stuff. I bought 2K of the 215M from Sinclair about a month ago. They are now out of stock, but that's a place to watch for them as well.