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338 lapua ladder test 300 gr otm berger & rl33

padfoot 37

Nerd
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 23, 2021
253
207
Idaho
New to reloading. Loaded up a ladder for rl33 powder in .2gr increments. Started at 98 gr. Max load and went up to 102.2. Shot them in 50 degree weather with ammo stored in 70 degree insulated cooler. Shot a couple fowlers to warm up the gun a bit. Let gun cool down for a minute between every shot hoping to keep chamber temp from effecting pressure. Never saw ejector marks. Primers have some flattening. Thoughts on this? Looks like the 101.6-101.8 range is maybe where i want to play for max velocity. Also the 100.2 area. Thoughts from someone who knows more than me?
 

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Ladders are a waste of time because the flat spots you think you see are an illusion. You’re dealing with a sample of one for each charge weight. No one makes population inferences based on sample sizes of 1 which is what that method is asking you to do. If you run another ladder w/same components those flat spots will either shift along the cw curve or vanish all together.

The target would at least show the impact pattern which can be compared to your velocities at each cw.

At this point, I’d just pick whichever charge weight that seems to correspond to the speed you want and begin seating depth testing at 100m.

Watch for overpressure signs.
 
101.6 is ok.

But tbh I do not see that as a wise testing method. Looking at just velocity might be ok, but not taking target data into account at all..

There is clearly discrepancy between the MV readings - both from chrono and reloading tolerances which you cannot escape from.
1 data point per charge weight does not bring you more info than what you can get from comparing them to each other.

Basically, all the info you now have is a velocity chart and a baseline for safe pressure.

You still need to solve at least:
Charge weight (that is accurate)
Seating depth
Bullet itself, it might not necessary still perform the best.

And I suggest transfering all current and future data to a spreadsheet, a lot easier to handle data and also visualize it by graphing it.
 
I do plan on doing groups from this data to find the best weight. Part of the goal of this was to see velocities per weight from this barrel and to see how high i could go before i started seeing pressure signs. You are totally right that i still have alot of work to do in load development for this round but this was way cheaper to find some nodes than doinf 3-5 shot groups of all these weights wouldnt you agree?
 
but this was way cheaper to find some nodes than doinf 3-5 shot groups of all these weights wouldnt you agree?
no, shooting a 308 is cheaper.

Your (Saterlee’s) ladder method is much more expensive because, afrer shooting all those rounds off, you’re still at square one.
 
no, shooting a 308 is cheaper.

Your (Saterlee’s) ladder method is much more expensive because, afrer shooting all those rounds off, you’re still at square one.
Well, thanks for the input. Whats your favorite load for the 338lm?
 
Well, thanks for the input. Whats your favorite load for the 338lm?
I have no idea - i shoot .308 as its cheaper.

You’re asking the wrong questions.

Everyone has told you ladders are worthless but you want to disagree/argue.

Instead, you should focus on learning sound development methods and TTP so you can avoid burning $$$ going forward. This sticky thread can prob give you a general idea of what people are running, assuming same components.
 
Find pressure
Adjust accordingly and play with seating.
Beware of the temp and don’t run on the ragged edge if you’re in a cold climate. July and august could give you problems.
 
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I have no idea - i shoot .308 as its cheaper.

You’re asking the wrong questions.

Everyone has told you ladders are worthless but you want to disagree/argue.

Instead, you should focus on learning sound development methods and TTP so you can avoid burning $$$ going forward. This sticky thread can prob give you a general idea of what people are running, assuming same components.
Im not trying to disagree or argue, just explain the method i was shown as a new reloader in order to get good quality input. There are many reloaders i know who have used this method to great success, just not with this caliber. Is this how this forum treats new reloaders? I dont know hardly anything about reloading compared to what there is to know. Just looking for input not ridicule. Ive been lead to believe these are sound development methods that are equals to others with pros and cons as well. You attack the idea without explaining why its bad or what is better and have no experience with this bullet powder combo or this cartridge. Hope this makes you feel like a big man.
 
Find pressure
Adjust accordingly and play with seating.
Beware of the temp and don’t run on the ragged edge if you’re in a cold climate. July and august could give you problems.
Yeah, that was the main goal of this group of loads. Find nodes and pressure limits with that powder. Want to finetune powder then play with seating depths like you suggest. I had the ammo on a warm sand bag in a cooler to simulate 80ish temps to try to account for summer cuz i hear you on the not running the ragged edge. Thanks for your input. I need all the experience i can get.
 
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Im not trying to disagree or argue, just explain the method i was shown as a new reloader in order to get good quality input. There are many reloaders i know who have used this method to great success, just not with this caliber. Is this how this forum treats new reloaders? I dont know hardly anything about reloading compared to what there is to know. Just looking for input not ridicule. Ive been lead to believe these are sound development methods that are equals to others with pros and cons as well. You attack the idea without explaining why its bad or what is better and have no experience with this bullet powder combo or this cartridge. Hope this makes you feel like a big man.
Lol, relax. You would know it if I started to ridicule you.

Check out the thread i linked in the post you just quoted. Chances are it will directly or indirectly answer many, if not all, of your questions.
 
Im not trying to disagree or argue, just explain the method i was shown as a new reloader in order to get good quality input. There are many reloaders i know who have used this method to great success, just not with this caliber. Is this how this forum treats new reloaders? I dont know hardly anything about reloading compared to what there is to know. Just looking for input not ridicule. Ive been lead to believe these are sound development methods that are equals to others with pros and cons as well. You attack the idea without explaining why its bad or what is better and have no experience with this bullet powder combo or this cartridge. Hope this makes you feel like a big man.
It’s the worst method ever and we have been actively trying to show people that it doesn’t work for shit.

Your people got good results because they didn’t look further to actually find something that’s really good and they have no idea where they are at on the spectrum of their rifles capabilities.

Do it again. Your results won’t match the first time and you’ll come to a different conclusion each time until you actually get a population of shots large enough to tell something.
 
New to reloading. Loaded up a ladder for rl33 powder in .2gr increments. Started at 98 gr. Max load and went up to 102.2. Shot them in 50 degree weather with ammo stored in 70 degree insulated cooler. Shot a couple fowlers to warm up the gun a bit. Let gun cool down for a minute between every shot hoping to keep chamber temp from effecting pressure. Never saw ejector marks. Primers have some flattening. Thoughts on this? Looks like the 101.6-101.8 range is maybe where i want to play for max velocity. Also the 100.2 area. Thoughts from someone who knows more than me?
what rifle and barrel length where you using? Enquiring minds want to know :)
 
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Im not trying to disagree or argue, just explain the method i was shown as a new reloader in order to get good quality input. There are many reloaders i know who have used this method to great success, just not with this caliber. Is this how this forum treats new reloaders? I dont know hardly anything about reloading compared to what there is to know. Just looking for input not ridicule. Ive been lead to believe these are sound development methods that are equals to others with pros and cons as well. You attack the idea without explaining why its bad or what is better and have no experience with this bullet powder combo or this cartridge. Hope this makes you feel like a big man.

Look, we were all new at one time. If reloading were a life or death game there are people on this forum I would trust my life to. You said you were new, that means you might get a beat down every once in a while, comes with the territory. I joined five years ago knowing absolutely nothing, five years later and in no small part to the fine people on this forum, I’ve reloaded enough rounds across a variety of calibers I feel confident giving a little advise from time-to-time. Here’s my advice to you; thicken your skin and just sponge up the information you get here. You’re going to find that a lot of things your friends told you or you read somewhere or some guy said are complete rubbish. Like the .40 cal. is dead, Goddamn it, it is not! Welcome and good luck!
 
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I do plan on doing groups from this data to find the best weight. Part of the goal of this was to see velocities per weight from this barrel and to see how high i could go before i started seeing pressure signs. You are totally right that i still have alot of work to do in load development for this round but this was way cheaper to find some nodes than doinf 3-5 shot groups of all these weights wouldnt you agree?
After you pick your starting point; are you going to load 5 rounds at each weight? 5 rounds at your target weight, 5 rounds below and 5 round above target to verify your 'node', es and sd's and compare to your original velocity check?
As previously mentioned, 1 round will give you an 'idea' of speed, but that round might NOT necessarily be 'accurate' due to ... (insert outside factor here) like, maybe your barrel was a tad hotter that the round before, maybe you left your round in the chamber just a little longer before you shot, causing your bullet to heat up a bit, etc...)

I tell you what I love and I wasn't able to do this till later -
An amazing member here built this for me (this is his set up) >> @JBarton Kudos to J!!!! ... I freaking love mine. It allows me to speed test and accuracy test at the same time. (I've tried all the other brands, this worked the BEST with my Chrono)
IMO - You can't really accuracy test with a chrono hanging off your barrel. Every time I shoot, I have this bad boy attached.
It's shocking (good and bad) to see your real world variance. I've shot 100 rounds and I know exactly what my SDs and ES's are. ( sometimes I get sad, but I know what my load does)

Before I had to shoot a few to get velocity, ES, and SDs, take off the chrono, and shoot a few to get accuracy. Now I can do both at same time and I never have to worry about 'dropped' or 'missed' bullets due to neighbors, sun, sound, other shooters, etc.
It's amazing how something hanging on your barrel can effect accuracy at the smallest proportions.


20210703_153623-jpg.7665841
 
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After you pick your starting point; are you going to load 5 rounds at each weight? 5 rounds at your target weight, 5 rounds below and 5 round above target to verify your 'node', es and sd's and compare to your original velocity check?
As previously mentioned, 1 round will give you an 'idea' of speed, but that round might NOT necessarily be 'accurate' due to ... (insert outside factor here) like, maybe your barrel was a tad hotter that the round before, maybe you left your round in the chamber just a little longer before you shot, causing your bullet to heat up a bit, etc...)

I tell you what I love and I wasn't able to do this till later -
An amazing member here built this for me (this is his set up) >> @JBarton Kudos to J!!!! ... I freaking love mine. It allows me to speed test and accuracy test at the same time. (I've tried all the other brands, this worked the BEST with my Chrono)
IMO - You can't really accuracy test with a chrono hanging off your barrel. Every time I shoot, I have this bad boy attached.
It's shocking (good and bad) to see your real world variance. I've shot 100 rounds and I know exactly what my SDs and ES's are. ( sometimes I get sad, but I know what my load does)

Before I had to shoot a few to get velocity, ES, and SDs, take off the chrono, and shoot a few to get accuracy. Now I can do both at same time and I never have to worry about 'dropped' or 'missed' bullets due to neighbors, sun, sound, other shooters, etc.
It's amazing how something hanging on your barrel can effect accuracy at the smallest proportions.


20210703_153623-jpg.7665841
Thats the plan, pick a node and load up and down from it to see group sizes, then mess with seating depth to see if it can be improved.
 
I do plan on doing groups from this data to find the best weight. Part of the goal of this was to see velocities per weight from this barrel and to see how high i could go before i started seeing pressure signs. You are totally right that i still have alot of work to do in load development for this round but this was way cheaper to find some nodes than doinf 3-5 shot groups of all these weights wouldnt you agree?
Well, yes.

I have done the exact same test you show here, just to see the where the pressure marks start and get a cool graph of N140 vs N540.

Now what I would do is shoot 3 to 5 shots instead at fewer datapoints. The graph line looks still the same but you have more solid information about grouping and velocity averages from multiple shots rather than singular.

Regarding seeking max pressures, ofc you'd rather load 5 overcharged than 15 to disassemble in case you run into pressure problems earlier than anticipated.

My reloading is 50% shooting for fun and 50% real goals. I have shot few hundred scenars testing N140 and N540 and learned a great deal while at it, about materials, reloading and shooting.

You do not either have to go full neurotic with it, just reload, shoot, learn, have fun.

But to make progress do think and plan what data you need and what you get from each test. You cannot get around the fact that amount of samples equal to more accurate data.

Next time shoot 2x5 of each charge weight candidate and collect real data, from POI to MV. You can trust that data much more. Whatever amount, I suggest you collate every sample into one group. Then make a copy and call your fliers in that version.

You will soon notice that the best reloading recipe is to change the shooter ;)
 
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what rifle and barrel length where you using? Enquiring minds want to know :)
Savage 110 elite precision with the stock 30in barrel. Was a bit suspicious of the velocity since it was higher than what i expected for the powder weight i was at part way through so i shot a couple factory loads. Federal 300 gr gold medal match was 2693 and the berger factory 300gr otm load was 2758. Do you see any high pressure signs on those cases? Anything i should look for? Primers have some flattening but not a ton and dont see any ejector marks nor did i have any heavier bolt lift.
 
Look, we were all new at one time. If reloading were a life or death game there are people on this forum I would trust my life to. You said you were new, that means you might get a beat down every once in a while, comes with the territory. I joined five years ago knowing absolutely nothing, five years later and in no small part to the fine people on this forum, I’ve reloaded enough rounds across a variety of calibers I feel confident giving a little advise from time-to-time. Here’s my advice to you; thicken your skin and just sponge up the information you get here. You’re going to find that a lot of things your friends told you or you read somewhere or some guy said are complete rubbish. Like the .40 cal. is dead, Goddamn it, it is not! Welcome and good luck!
Good advice. Thanks.
 
Savage 110 elite precision with the stock 30in barrel. Was a bit suspicious of the velocity since it was higher than what i expected for the powder weight i was at part way through so i shot a couple factory loads. Federal 300 gr gold medal match was 2693 and the berger factory 300gr otm load was 2758. Do you see any high pressure signs on those cases? Anything i should look for? Primers have some flattening but not a ton and dont see any ejector marks nor did i have any heavier bolt lift.
Rl33 tends to be on the upper end of velocity numbers when I use it, coupled with the 30” barrel, your probably not too far off. I did all of my 338 lapua load development at 300 yards, that’s where I was confident in my eyes for precision and the wind isn’t affecting it. Any farther and I was worried the test would be flawed because of outside influences including my bad eyes. I loaded up a one case at mag length from lower charge to max, found max and then was going to work backwards seating deeper till I found what it liked. I lucked out and the 30 thousandths off the lands happened to be good enough, I ran velocity and was getting a SD of 14 so I upgraded my dies and got more meticulous in my loading and got it down to 9. That and the barrel was new so I think getting it stable after 150 round or so helped. I left it alone, good enough for the 1000 yard range I was using. Now I’m going to improve it for the mile plate I have access to. This is 15 shots of 285 grain eld, h1000 at 100 yards. I shot these over the course of about 4 hours. Cold bore is in the group. Savage 112
30BBE832-D8AC-4E2F-9125-3175A5CA15B2.png
 
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Savage 110 elite precision with the stock 30in barrel. Was a bit suspicious of the velocity since it was higher than what i expected for the powder weight i was at part way through so i shot a couple factory loads. Federal 300 gr gold medal match was 2693 and the berger factory 300gr otm load was 2758. Do you see any high pressure signs on those cases? Anything i should look for? Primers have some flattening but not a ton and dont see any ejector marks nor did i have any heavier bolt lift.
I don't have Quickload. What I can say is, what others with MUCH more experience have said.
If you are shooting a round that is over pressure, your rifle might shoot it numerous times, but there WILL be a failure at some point. You don't want to be there when it happens. If a gun is designed for XX pressure and you are shooting YY pressure, bad things will eventually happen.​
Others have mentioned that you may be over pressure without seeing the pressure signs on a primer.​
I'll let others chime in on this​
I believe that 3,000 fps is getting up there in a LM with 300 OTMs, if you can find someone to run it on QuickLoad, they could probably say, yup, it's flashing at me or something to that effect.
Not sure what the savage 110 action can take in terms of pressure. Out of my wheel house.


338 LM linky
This gentlmen said
Switching to the VV N570, 97 grains produced 2,938 fps with the 300 SMK, and again, 0.5″ groups at 100 yards with no signs of significant pressure.​
he was using​
338 Lapua Magnum used in testing built on Stiller TAC338 action, Bartlein heavy barrel
 
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Rl33 tends to be on the upper end of velocity numbers when I use it, coupled with the 30” barrel, your probably not too far off. I did all of my 338 lapua load development at 300 yards, that’s where I was confident in my eyes for precision and the wind isn’t affecting it. Any farther and I was worried the test would be flawed because of outside influences including my bad eyes. I loaded up a one case at mag length from lower charge to max, found max and then was going to work backwards seating deeper till I found what it liked. I lucked out and the 30 thousandths off the lands happened to be good enough, I ran velocity and was getting a SD of 14 so I upgraded my dies and got more meticulous in my loading and got it down to 9. That and the barrel was new so I think getting it stable after 150 round or so helped. I left it alone, good enough for the 1000 yard range I was using. Now I’m going to improve it for the mile plate I have access to. This is 15 shots of 285 grain eld, h1000 at 100 yards. I shot these over the course of about 4 hours. Cold bore is in the group. Savage 112 View attachment 7844431
damn.. not a flyer in the bunch !!!! :oops: nice shooting!!
 
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After you pick your starting point; are you going to load 5 rounds at each weight? 5 rounds at your target weight, 5 rounds below and 5 round above target to verify your 'node', es and sd's and compare to your original velocity check?
As previously mentioned, 1 round will give you an 'idea' of speed, but that round might NOT necessarily be 'accurate' due to ... (insert outside factor here) like, maybe your barrel was a tad hotter that the round before, maybe you left your round in the chamber just a little longer before you shot, causing your bullet to heat up a bit, etc...)

I tell you what I love and I wasn't able to do this till later -
An amazing member here built this for me (this is his set up) >> @JBarton Kudos to J!!!! ... I freaking love mine. It allows me to speed test and accuracy test at the same time. (I've tried all the other brands, this worked the BEST with my Chrono)
IMO - You can't really accuracy test with a chrono hanging off your barrel. Every time I shoot, I have this bad boy attached.
It's shocking (good and bad) to see your real world variance. I've shot 100 rounds and I know exactly what my SDs and ES's are. ( sometimes I get sad, but I know what my load does)

Before I had to shoot a few to get velocity, ES, and SDs, take off the chrono, and shoot a few to get accuracy. Now I can do both at same time and I never have to worry about 'dropped' or 'missed' bullets due to neighbors, sun, sound, other shooters, etc.
It's amazing how something hanging on your barrel can effect accuracy at the smallest proportions.


20210703_153623-jpg.7665841
I'm glad your magnetospeed mount is working well for you. I always use mine. I'm set up to run on KRG spigot mounts on 3 separate rifles. Barrel lengths range from 24" out to 28". It will also work on my MPA. I have to mount it on the arca rail on the forend and increase my sensitivity .
 
Rl33 tends to be on the upper end of velocity numbers when I use it, coupled with the 30” barrel, your probably not too far off. I did all of my 338 lapua load development at 300 yards, that’s where I was confident in my eyes for precision and the wind isn’t affecting it. Any farther and I was worried the test would be flawed because of outside influences including my bad eyes. I loaded up a one case at mag length from lower charge to max, found max and then was going to work backwards seating deeper till I found what it liked. I lucked out and the 30 thousandths off the lands happened to be good enough, I ran velocity and was getting a SD of 14 so I upgraded my dies and got more meticulous in my loading and got it down to 9. That and the barrel was new so I think getting it stable after 150 round or so helped. I left it alone, good enough for the 1000 yard range I was using. Now I’m going to improve it for the mile plate I have access to. This is 15 shots of 285 grain eld, h1000 at 100 yards. I shot these over the course of about 4 hours. Cold bore is in the group. Savage 112 View attachment 7844431
Nice!
 
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Curious what your guys thoughts are on those pics of the primers. Dont look very flat but some of the higher loads also have a swell around the firing pin.
 
Curious what your guys thoughts are on those pics of the primers. Dont look very flat but some of the higher loads also have a swell around the firing pin.
They look fine to me. Don’t worry about cratering especially running 3000 fps and only having minor cratering. It’s not a good indicator of pressure anyway, it’s more a indication of build quality control at the factory. If you’re worried about pressure, pick whatever charge you’re going with and load one cartridge several times and see how many firings until your primer pocket gets too loose. If I had a load that shot really good and it lasted 7-8 shots or more, I’d probably roll with it.
 
I have recently started load development for a 338 LM. I am getting really close to 2900 fps with 300 gr SMK'S and 300 gr Bergers. I also have tried 285 ELD-M'S. With Lapua brass I got great results with higher velocities than I was expecting. I am using Retumbo. Using a wiser mount or something similar makes sense so you can shoot for accuracy and velocities. But so far shooting with the magnetospeed attached to the rifle it seems to just effect the point of impact. Picture below is shooting 285 eld-m's SD of 3.8 and picture of 300 gr Smk's SD 5.1 and the target with the magnetospeed attached to the barrel (5 shot @ 100). Getting
Similar results without the magnetospeed attached to the barrel using a wiser mount. Just different point of impact. I don't see any signs of pressure. I tried a different brass (GWT) I hit pressure almost instantly and at lower velocities.
20220305_142545.jpg




20220319_163051.jpg20220319_164022.jpg
 
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I have recently started load development for a 338 LM. I am getting really close to 2900 fps with 300 gr SMK'S and 300 gr Bergers. I also have tried 285 ELD-M'S. With Lapua brass I got great results with higher velocities than I was expecting. I am using Retumbo. Using a wiser mount or something similar makes sense so you can shoot for accuracy and velocities. But so far shooting with the magnetospeed attached to the rifle it seems to just effect the point of impact. Picture below is shooting 285 eld-m's SD of 3.8 and picture of 300 gr Smk's SD 5.1 and the target with the magnetospeed attached to the barrel (5 shot @ 100). Getting
Similar results without the magnetospeed attached to the barrel using a wiser mount. Just different point of impact. I don't see any signs of pressure. I tried a different brass (GWT) I hit pressure almost instantly and at lower velocities.
View attachment 7844767




View attachment 7844770View attachment 7844765
Good to know about the GWT brass I’m thinking of trying some.
 
Good to know about the GWT brass I’m thinking of trying some.
To be fair I started a little high, and it didn't give it a fair try. I only loaded a few. It wasnt extreme lower velocities either. I think i was seeing ejector marks at 2850 fps. I just had lapua and GWT brass. I tried the GWT after the Lapua and I was already smitten with how well it did! SD of 3.8 and 5.1, I actually think the GWT is decent brass. I just decided I wanted one type of brass instead of multiple headstamps. I didn't want to take the time or use the components for 2 separate loads for different brass. My 338 LM is by far the most expensive rifle to shoot I have. So might as well simplify it somewhat
 
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To be fair I started a little high, and it didn't give it a fair try. I only loaded a few. It wasnt extreme lower velocities either. I think i was seeing ejector marks at 2850 fps. I just had lapua and GWT brass. I tried the GWT after the Lapua and I was already smitten with how well it did! SD of 3.8 and 5.1, I actually think the GWT is decent brass. I just decided I wanted one type of brass instead of multiple headstamps. I didn't want to take the time or use the components for 2 separate loads for different brass. My 338 LM is by far the most expensive rifle to shoot I have. So might as well simplify it somewhat
Thanks for the clarification. I’m probably going to try some out, my lapua brass stock is getting lower. I think I’ve got 100 new pieces left, I’ll probably pick up a 100 GWT to try out with my new load venture. I’m going to try some 250s with 4831 for a while and seems like a good time to test a new brand of brass.
 
They look fine to me. Don’t worry about cratering especially running 3000 fps and only having minor cratering. It’s not a good indicator of pressure anyway, it’s more a indication of build quality control at the factory. If you’re worried about pressure, pick whatever charge you’re going with and load one cartridge several times and see how many firings until your primer pocket gets too loose. If I had a load that shot really good and it lasted 7-8 shots or more, I’d probably roll with it.
Cool, i wasnt sure how much of that was a problem and how much was fine. Still learning. Ill give that a try, thanks. Its the gun more than the brass im worried about but im not rich so dont want to toast the brass either.
 
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New to reloading. Loaded up a ladder for rl33 powder in .2gr increments. Started at 98 gr. Max load and went up to 102.2. Shot them in 50 degree weather with ammo stored in 70 degree insulated cooler. Shot a couple fowlers to warm up the gun a bit. Let gun cool down for a minute between every shot hoping to keep chamber temp from effecting pressure. Never saw ejector marks. Primers have some flattening. Thoughts on this? Looks like the 101.6-101.8 range is maybe where i want to play for max velocity. Also the 100.2 area. Thoughts from someone who knows more than me?
Some advice for the new reloader. Don’t ever start at a max load. The article here should be mandatory reading for new reloaders. I’m glad it hasn’t bit you yet, but if starting at someone’s max load becomes a habit, it’ll become a problem.

 
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That’s one of the benefits of hex boron nitride, if it’s done correctly the cold bore will be in the group.
Where did you have your barrel treated for the hex boron nitride?
What did you do with the barrel once it returned?
What did you do to prepare the barrel for the process?
Do you know the thickness of the coating?
It appears you have done other barrels in this process.... how are their life values proceeding? Any bore pictures?
Thanks
 
Where did you have your barrel treated for the hex boron nitride?
What did you do with the barrel once it returned?
What did you do to prepare the barrel for the process?
Do you know the thickness of the coating?
It appears you have done other barrels in this process.... how are their life values proceeding? Any bore pictures?
Thanks
It’s all done at home. It’s a real simple process. I ordered my hex from bulletcoatings.com The barrel can be pretreated with a hex and alcohol slurry which is what I do.
David Tubb has a YouTube video out explaining it, as well as Jeff Brozovich both are pretty thorough. I’ve been doing it for several years now, the best advice I can give to get a good consistent application is clean and degrease the bullets make sure they’re dry and warm them up prior. And do the exact same thing each and every time you treat your bullets and barrel.
Some barrels take more shots to get stable than others so be patient, lots of guys give up too early.
No throat and barrel pics, but it is rumored to extend barrel life, it’s a coating/lube that’s used in hot environments so it’s able to withstand the heat well. I feel like my throat hasn’t moved much in several rifles, but I don’t shoot them hot. I usually have mild loads and low shot strings. There other benefits as well, like evening out the pressure curve, if you have a rifle that pressures out early in the load development, it can help with that, it can be used to increase velocity if you have room in the case to add more powder. I use it for the cold bore shot being in the group, and I hate cleaning rifles so it allows me to go 5-600 rounds before I clean. Usually once a year cleaning and it’s got some anti corrosion properties so I don’t ever see rust in my barrels or on the bolt face from humidity and long term storage.
 
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^^ what John said, and how often do you have to reapply?
link to directions
I reapply the slurry after every range trip. I use a clean boresnake, I run it thru twice to get the carbon out of the barrel then apply slurry. It’s probably not needed every time but my technique works across several rifles so I stick with it, consistency is key. It also is like putting a fresh coat of oil in the bore for storage, the alcohol in the slurry displaces any moisture and the hex coats it for corrosion resistance.
 
DCF89B11-9D2C-4A04-B970-6530F014FA83.jpeg
First shots out of my 6.5 with a new seating test, cold bore in the group. 5 shots
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30-06 200 yard 3 shot group cold bore in the group. 208 grain eld @2780fps
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308 178 grain 5 shots with cold bore in the group.
 
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Dave is a weekly talk and every a couple of visits every 6 months or so... we are working on barrel coatings at this time... and hot rodded 33xc rounds.
He’s a wealth of knowledge. I’ve followed him for several years. Don’t know him personally but have learned a lot from him.
 
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I have the same rig that I’m beginning load development with 285 gr ELDs & 300 gr A tips w/ RL 33 to shoot at out to 1680 yd.

I’m curious which 300 gr bullet you were using and how far off the lands was the bullet seated where you saw your best groups - it looks like @ 100.6 gr. ?

I’d usually start @ 20 thou off the lands and once I found / dialed in the accuracy node w powder charge, play with the seating depth, primers, etc. to come up with “the load”.

Thanks in advance, it might help me save some $$ in components since we have the same rig/ chamber / bbl etc. at least it would narrow in my starting seating depth.