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6.5 creedmoor ar10 won't shoot plz help

russkim04

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 22, 2019
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I have a 22" fluted b.a. barrel and load devolved several loads using hornady 140 eldm,140 hpbt and their 147.... been trying to get my reloder16 or 26 to shoot. I also have some h4350, but not much..... if i can get this thing to hit under 1 moa for distance consistently, id be a happy camper!!!! I've been using large primered Winchester cases. I have br2, 210m and 215m to work with. Im starting to wonder if the Winchester brass is junk. It's brand new though. About 1000 rounds on barrel.

Thank you for any guidence you guys offer!
 
Try the H4350 for accuracy in AR 10 mine shows 5 rds in .8" area with most bullets.
147 eldm 41.0 gr H4350...or more accurate 147 eldm 40.3 gr H4350 2556 fps
Back to back 6 shot groups .653" and .781"
2.822" COAL.

This is a Wilson Combat 6.5 Creedmoor barrel middle of the road but many of them shoot pretty good.
I use Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor brass both SR and LR primers.
My notes are full of loads with RL26, Superformance & slower H4350...most 140, 147, 150, show 5 shot groups in .7" to .8"
With 3 shots as small as .176" with 147 eldm 45.2 gr Superformance 2790 fps average 10.7 S/D 2.820 COAL, lapua brass.
140 gr nosler 46.2 gr Superformance 2858 fps .698" 5 shots
150 SMK 46.2 gr Superformance 2842 fps 10.1 S/D 5 shots .546" 2.830"
A lot of 3 shot groups in the .3" but adding 2 or 3 more shots usually pushes the groups to .6 to .8" area. Proof Research Stainless Steel barrels have been consistently accurate and I've been using them as of late. Most ARs are capable of 1" 5 shot groups, with good barrels, and good assembly, truing, facing, gluing, centering bolt carrier, not merely putting parts together. Some will shoot 10 or 12 shots close or into .5" with the bullets it likes...my AR Proof barreled 308 has shot .3" and .4" back to back 5 shot groups with dirty LC, primed brass and 130 gr Speer Varmint bullet with w 748 loaded on the Dillon progressive....as an example.
 
Yes and yes
That is a lot of rounds without getting something figured out. Have you shot any quality factory ammo? You might want to buy some federal gold metal match or berger 140 ammo. If you cant get some high quality factory stuff to shoot you may have other things going on.
 
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The brass is not the cause.. besides the barrel what do you have for a buffer and do you have the buffer retaining pin removed? (I know others have there oppinion) how ever I consider this to be a huge cause in how consistent bolt dwell time is. I also redlocktite the tenon on my barrels when installing.. (only on large frames) it has gotten rid of the (WTF WAS THAT) for me. Get a chrono and chrono your ammo to it will help narrow down ammo vs gun.. I also hope to God you scope mount isn't mounted on the forward and reciever rails.
Does it shoot well at 100 / 300 yards?

Coul be just a shitty barrel too...
 
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1000 Reloads
powder $270
primers $100
Bullets $350
Brass $200

BA Barrel $300

$1220 and No Joy


Kreiger or Bartlein Barrel $900
10 Boxes of Factoty Match Ammo $400

$1300 and plenty joy.
Oh i know, buy once- cry once.... been kicking myself
 
The brass is not the cause.. besides the barrel what do you have for a buffer and do you have the buffer retaining pin removed? (I know others have there oppinion) how ever I consider this to be a huge cause in how consistent bolt dwell time is. I also redlocktite the tenon on my barrels when installing.. (only on large frames) it has gotten rid of the (WTF WAS THAT) for me. Get a chrono and chrono your ammo to it will help narrow down ammo vs gun.. I also hope to God you scope mount isn't mounted on the forward and reciever rails.
Does it shoot well at 100 / 300 yards?

Coul be just a shitty barrel too...
Plz elaborate more on buffer pin, i have one installed on mine

Also what is the red lock tite for? I'm sorry for not understanding
 
Plz elaborate more on buffer pin, i have one installed on mine

Also what is the red lock tite for? I'm sorry for not understanding
By removing the retaining pin for the buffer spring it allows the buffer to rest on the carrier rather than the carrier being shoved into the buffer. It will have constant contact with the carrier. The locktite on the barrel tenon semi permanently glues it to help with harmonics and shifting while it's being fired ( it's snake oil to some) but I have had proven success with bringing group sizes down. How ever it does not fix a shitty barrel. Also if you need to replace the barrel a heat gun and wooden rod will be a must to get it out.
 
By removing the retaining pin for the buffer spring it allows the buffer to rest on the carrier rather than the carrier being shoved into the buffer. It will have constant contact with the carrier. The locktite on the barrel tenon semi permanently glues it to help with harmonics and shifting while it's being fired ( it's snake oil to some) but I have had proven success with bringing group sizes down. How ever it does not fix a shitty barrel. Also if you need to replace the barrel a heat gun and wooden rod will be a must to get it out.
Thank you! So it sounds tricky getting the upper closed without retaining pin, but I'll give it a try. The red locktite is to be used between barrel o.d. and upper i.d. where it mounts i take it? sounds like red would be difficult to remove..... would blue be better or are you depending on the shear grip of red for the application? Thank you so much, I'm learning tons!!!
 
Thank you! So it sounds tricky getting the upper closed without retaining pin, but I'll give it a try. The red locktite is to be used between barrel o.d. and upper i.d. where it mounts i take it? sounds like red would be difficult to remove..... would blue be better or are you depending on the shear grip of red for the application? Thank you so much, I'm learning tons!!!
Red is difficult to remove you could use blue if wanted still takes heat and a wooden rod.Yes you just do the od of the tenon... dont have to use a ton a little goes a long ways.. i stay near the front shoulder so it doesn't get into the chamber or bolt. . if you are not useing a silent capture spring then yes its a lil more cumbersome to assemble the upper and lower but its not horrendouse.. it's remembering that it's not secured and pops out like a jack in a box that scares ya lol.
 
By removing the retaining pin for the buffer spring it allows the buffer to rest on the carrier rather than the carrier being shoved into the buffer. It will have constant contact with the carrier. The locktite on the barrel tenon semi permanently glues it to help with harmonics and shifting while it's being fired ( it's snake oil to some) but I have had proven success with bringing group sizes down. How ever it does not fix a shitty barrel. Also if you need to replace the barrel a heat gun and wooden rod will be a must to get it out.
On a properly manufactured firearm, the buffer retaining pin will never contact or affect any moving component while in operation. The only time that the buffer contacts the pin is when the upper is pivoted open or removed. The tail of the carrier pushes the buffer off the pin when the upper is pivoted closed. Out of spec or incompatible parts can cause the buffer to strike the pin during operation, which will be very obvious by looking at the buffer face. There are some buffers, like the JP SCS, where you do remove the retaining pin.
 
I use green high temperature bering sleeve retaining loctite. The barrel extension is like a sleeve and not threaded ... and really strong and high temperature, like a hot AR barrel.
Do Not need heat for taking the barrel out of the upper receiver...Just use Johnson Paste wax on the area of the upper receiver and buff out leaving a slick polished ares where the barrel extension fits into the reciever bore...now lightly dab the green high temperature bering sleeve retaining adhesive to the barrel extension...and assemble and tork to 60 ft/lbs. Use a quality barrel only one of 3 BA barrels were of spoty acceptable accuracy...even the 1" moa guarantee...yeah sometimes 3 shots will achieve 1" but never 5 shots....mostly 1.5" to 2.5 " 5 shot groups.
To remove glue in barrel with waxed reciever is simple: Use a 30 mm oak AR 10 or (1" oak on AR 15) cut down to barrel extension dia. for 1.5" in length . No heat just insert your special 30 mm Oak dowel about 2.5 feet long into the reciever. Hang on to the barrel with the nut removed of course and bang on the concrete floor, soon the barrel will begin to separate from the glued receiver...all the glue on the barrel none in the waxed reciever.
There are other things I do that require lathe and milling machine, to enhance accuracy in an AR. Squaring the reciever, centering the bolt carrier, glue in, high end barrel...and always the same torque, I mill a groove for the gas tube if it doesn't line up, at 60 ft/lbs . Except for 9 mm blow back...all buffers and springs are mill spec. So all lowers are inter changeable AR 15 for all AR 15 calibers, and AR 10 lowers are interchangeable with uppers ...they all have the same buffer and springs. The barrel gas system sets up the AR function for individual calibers, with adjustable gas blocks if necessary and /or drilled out gas ports.
The buffer and its spring has slight tension on the bolt carrier as the AR is hinged together and the take down pin pushed in. I do not mess with that. It should go together easily with the buffer being pushed back slightly into the buffer tube, when the firearm is closed..machine a slightly larger chamber on the front of tbe buffer helps close it if it hangs up a bit.
An AR will shoot 5 shots under .5" when assembled correctly with a good barrel, even in the .2" .3" and .4" area but .4" to .6" very common. Or 12 shots into .59"
But not everyone has the tools to do everything, much can be accomplished, starting with a premium barrel, aftermarket trigger, good scope, & good handloading practices...costs money and time, few short cuts, and all learned over time.