6.5 Creedmoor - barrel life - semi auto

[ralfabco]

I read threads about 6.5 Creed bolt action barrel life. Typically, it appears 2,500 rounds before the barrel is relegated to hunting.



Stupid question - with a semi auto 20" barrel I can expect similar barrel life ? The groups will begin to open up after 2,500 rounds ? Not looking to do any magazine dumps. This is a semi-auto rifle.

 

[308pirate]

Why would it be any different?

 

[thexman]

I guess depends how fast you shoot and I think longer barrel also have faster muzzle velocity, which might cause less barrel life?

 

[lash]

I guess depends how fast you shoot and I think longer barrel also have faster muzzle velocity, which might cause less barrel life?

No. Muzzle velocity by itself has little to do with barrel life. Pushing a hot load regularly in any length barrel will shorten barrel life. Sustained length strings of fire in short periods is another contributor. Heat and pressure are the contributors.

 

[b6graham]

No. Muzzle velocity by itself has little to do with barrel life. Pushing a hot load regularly in any length barrel will shorten barrel life. Sustained length strings of fire in short periods is another contributor. Heat and pressure are the contributors.

Thick heavy bolt barrel versus skinny semi barrel. Very different heat profiles after 1, 5, and 10+ rounds

 

[lash]

Thick heavy bolt barrel versus skinny semi barrel. Very different heat profiles after 1, 5, and 10+ rounds

True enough. Again, heat is the issue.

 

[thexman]

True enough. Again, heat is the issue.

So can I say, if I cool the barrel after 5 or 10 shots and only use factory ammo it would help to extend the barrel life?

 

[b6graham]

So can I say, if I cool the barrel after 5 or 10 shots and only use factory ammo it would help to extend the barrel life?

factory ammo doesnt matter. just reload to normal speed/pressure

 

[lash]

So can I say, if I cool the barrel after 5 or 10 shots and only use factory ammo it would help to extend the barrel life?

Assuming that the specific factory ammo you are using is not showing signs of pressure in your rifle and is not hot for your rifle/chamber, that is likely true. If you are cranking out those 10 shots as fast as possible each time, that could also be an issue.

An example for my statement:
Hornady factory loads can sometimes run hot in some rifles/chambers. Some people will experience signs of pressure, even blowing out primers. Others can use that ammo all day long with no signs of excess pressure. Pay attention to your case condition after firing and signs like hard bolt lift and tough extraction. These things are signs telling you what’s going on.

Knowing what a reasonable speed for your caliber, barrel, barrel length and load is supposed to be will help you to make good decisions regarding how and what ammo you run. For example, I like around 2750 FPS for 140 class bullets in my .260. It’s a medium speed load at best for the caliber. Others easily run 2850-2900 FPS and like that speed. This is from a 26” barrel. I could run mine hotter/faster, but I have been getting in excess of 3500 accurate rounds through a barrel, whereas those running hotter typically see only 2500-ish.

You can go really deep into the rabbit hole once you realize there are often ways to get more speed without extra pressure by using slower powders, optimized for your cartridge. But it’s not really necessary to get this deep into it to get decent life from a barrel.

And I won’t mention that sometimes a barrel just ain’t right and dies an early death.

In the end, it’s not bad to remember that if you shoot a lot, barrels are wear parts that will need to be replaced. If you don’t shoot a lot, you may never shoot out a barrel.

 

[fxdrider]

In the end, it’s not bad to remember that if you shoot a lot, barrels are wear parts that will need to be replaced. If you don’t shoot a lot, you may never shoot out a barrel.

This! As Frank has pointed out in his podcast many times: "Barrels are tires". In other words, you wear them out - you replace them.

 

[thexman]

This! As Frank has pointed out in his podcast many times: "Barrels are tires". In other words, you wear them out - you replace them.

Yes and no. For sure, it is just like wear and tear parts of a car, but if you can extend the barrel life a bit longer by shooting it smoothly not too harsh, why not. Just like driving cars, go easy with the acceleration and brake, both the tires and brake would last longer before you have to change it. So we can save some money for more fun in the shooting.

 

[308pirate]

Just like driving cars, go easy with the acceleration and brake, both the tires and brake would last longer before you have to change it.

Yea, but where's the fun in that?

 

[FCS]

What I've seen is that 6.5 Creed rifles shot in PRS matches / practice for PRS matches tend to start having uncalled fliers at an increasing rate at about 2000 rds. Still shoots pretty tight at 300 or less but doesn't hold good vertical at longer distances.
Some barrels last longer, some don't last as long. I'd plan for 2000 rds before you need a barrel change, if it lasts longer that is great.
How hard you push load has an effect on barrel life, as does how fast are you putting rds down barrel. Heavier the contour near chamber, the larger heat sink you have, usually get a little longer barrel life. Takes longer to cool off too, has more thermal mass.

How heavy a contour barrel is on your semi-auto?
Semi-auto can still be fired plenty fast to get a barrel REALLY hot.

Shoot barrel until accuracy doesn't meet YOUR requirements, then barrel is shot out and you put another into receiver. Barrels are "cheap", ammo isn't.

 

[CATM15]

I would just replace that barrel when the group opens up. Yes it’s an extra expense but at least you can do it yourself. I’m reaching the end of my barrel life for my bolt gun and will have to shell out twice as much to get it replaced.

 

[sako17]

Hunting accuracy will go probably 2500 to 3000...