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6.5 Creedmoor Outside Neck Diameter Of FL Sized Case?

sig2009

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Feb 24, 2017
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I'm looking for the 6.5 Creedmoor Outside Neck Diameter Of a FL Sized Case. The reason I ask is that I am going to start turning necks. I don't have a FL sizer die but I do have a Fl bushing sizer die. Rather than spend money on a new die I can just purchase the bushing. This way I can have the correct neck size to fit the pilot on the Hornady Neck Sizing tool. I believe it is .295.
 
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Neck diameter is equal to neck wall thickness x 2 minus .001-.003 subtracted from bullet diameter depending on what amount of tension you want.

I'm not looking for neck tension and bullet diameter. As I said I am neck turning and I need the empty Fl sized case case to fit on the mandrel of the Hornady neck turning tool. I don't have a FL sizer die to do this. I only have a bushing sizer die. I'm using Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass.
 
I'm not looking for neck tension and bullet diameter. As I said I am neck turning and I need the empty Fl sized case case to fit on the mandrel of the Hornady neck turning tool. I don't have a FL sizer die to do this. I only have a bushing sizer die. I'm using Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass.

Seriously, neck turning is stupid simple you use an expander mandrel and then run it over a turning mandrel to whatever thickness you want.
That's it no super special formula or vudoo.
 
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Seriously, neck turning is stupid simple you use an expander mandrel and then run it over a turning mandrel to whatever thickness you want.
That's it no super special formula or vudoo.

I know that. I did a bunch of .308 today with a FL size die I have. Fits on the mandrel perfectly and turned 100 cases. Now I just have to bushing neck size those. I don't have a FL sizer die for the 6.5 to do this. Simple.
 
I believe I found what I was looking for for neck diameter. Now I can just buy the .295 neck bushing instead of buying a fl sizing die and the case will fit on the mandrel.


6.5mm Creedmoor
Bullet diameter.2644 in (6.72 mm)
Neck diameter.2950 in (7.49 mm)
Shoulder diameter.4620 in (11.73 mm)
Base diameter.4703 in (11.95 mm)
 
That sound quite large to me. Mine comes out of the chamber (fired Round) at .295 I then size it down to .288 and finish size it with a mandrel to .2895. Loaded round is .2915.

A standard FL Redding die will size to .283, Whidden to .284, Forster to .285, Mighty Armory to .288

I really thought you were trying to determine the mandrel size rather than the OD, sorry about that.
 
I’m not sure I follow what you’re doing.

Is this new brass? If so then run the brass over an expander mandrel to open it up to the proper internal size to fit on the turning arbor. Shouldn’t need a full length sizing die at all for that.
Or is this once fired? I wouldn’t want to turn bushing sized brass since the base of the neck isn’t sized entirely via the bushing, and I would certainly test one and maybe section it to see how much neck material is really left. If you turned the majority of the neck to a certain thickness and then cut down into that donut that remains it’s going to remove more material than intended and can lead to separated necks if it’s too out of wack. A traditional full length die that doesn’t have a neck bubble would be my preference.

That said, who gives a shit what the sized down is? It varies for everyone depending on what die and or bushing they use. How will that help you with turning necks? It’s the one measurement I can’t figure out how it could be helpful. If you just size down you are pushing the external inconsistencies to the inside where they will glide over the arbor so really you just invert the problem, not erase it. It’s the insides I want even before I remove material, the outside doesn’t matter because it gets removed.

edit: that said my Peterson brass outside neck diameter measures .287 sized, .288 expanded and .290 seated. But that’s really +/- half a thou due to the differences in my brass thicknesses.
 
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I’m not sure I follow what you’re doing.

Is this new brass? If so then run the brass over an expander mandrel to open it up to the proper internal size to fit on the turning arbor. Shouldn’t need a full length sizing die at all for that.
Or is this once fired? I wouldn’t want to turn bushing sized brass since the base of the neck isn’t sized entirely via the bushing, and I would certainly test one and maybe section it to see how much neck material is really left. If you turned the majority of the neck to a certain thickness and then cut down into that donut that remains it’s going to remove more material than intended and can lead to separated necks if it’s too out of wack. A traditional full length die that doesn’t have a neck bubble would be my preference.

That said, who gives a shit what the sized down is? It varies for everyone depending on what die and or bushing they use. How will that help you with turning necks? It’s the one measurement I can’t figure out how it could be helpful. If you just size down you are pushing the external inconsistencies to the inside where they will glide over the arbor so really you just invert the problem, not erase it. It’s the insides I want even before I remove material, the outside doesn’t matter because it gets removed.

edit: that said my Peterson brass outside neck diameter measures .287 sized, .288 expanded and .290 seated. But that’s really +/- half a thou due to the differences in my brass thicknesses.
^^^^^^ That. Exactly that.
 
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I’m not sure I follow what you’re doing.

Is this new brass? If so then run the brass over an expander mandrel to open it up to the proper internal size to fit on the turning arbor. Shouldn’t need a full length sizing die at all for that.
Or is this once fired? I wouldn’t want to turn bushing sized brass since the base of the neck isn’t sized entirely via the bushing, and I would certainly test one and maybe section it to see how much neck material is really left. If you turned the majority of the neck to a certain thickness and then cut down into that donut that remains it’s going to remove more material than intended and can lead to separated necks if it’s too out of wack. A traditional full length die that doesn’t have a neck bubble would be my preference.

That said, who gives a shit what the sized down is? It varies for everyone depending on what die and or bushing they use. How will that help you with turning necks? It’s the one measurement I can’t figure out how it could be helpful. If you just size down you are pushing the external inconsistencies to the inside where they will glide over the arbor so really you just invert the problem, not erase it. It’s the insides I want even before I remove material, the outside doesn’t matter because it gets removed.

edit: that said my Peterson brass outside neck diameter measures .287 sized, .288 expanded and .290 seated. But that’s really +/- half a thou due to the differences in my brass thicknesses.

I need the sized neck to fit on the mandrel of the Hornady neck turning tool. If the neck is sized too small it will not fit on the mandrel. If you fl size a piece of brass the neck opening will fit properly on the mandrel to turn. Simple. Easy to understand.
 
Simple. Easy to understand.
Yeah. Sorry. I tried. Some people are too dumb to be helped.
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Against my better judgment I will try and reinforce what @spife7980 was trying to convey to you.
If you use a bushing die there will be a small unsized area at the neck shoulder junction that you will end up removing to much material when you neck turn and weaken the brass in that critical area.
This will most likely result in you loosing the necks on you brass when you fire them or them deforming when you try and resize them.
I neck turn once fired 6.5CM Hornady brass as well but I have a Hornady FL die set I bought specifically for that purpose and then use a Redding Type S FL Bushing die there after.
The Hornady neck turner set works I'm sure but ideally you want to use an expander mandrel appriately sized to your turning arbor to set the interior dimension of the necks prior to turning.
 
Against my better judgment I will try and reinforce what @spife7980 was trying to convey to you.
If you use a bushing die there will be a small unsized area at the neck shoulder junction that you will end up removing to much material when you neck turn and weaken the brass in that critical area.
This will most likely result in you loosing the necks on you brass when you fire them or them deforming when you try and resize them.
I neck turn once fired 6.5CM Hornady brass as well but I have a Hornady FL die set I bought specifically for that purpose and then use a Redding Type S FL Bushing die there after.
The Hornady neck turner set works I'm sure but ideally you want to use an expander mandrel appriately sized to your turning arbor to set the interior dimension of the necks prior to turning.

Thanks. I ordered a Redding FL sizer die and I also have the Redding FL bushing die along with the Hornady set.
 
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...ideally you want to use an expander mandrel appriately sized to your turning arbor to set the interior dimension of the necks prior to turning.

Seems like this is the part he's not 'getting'.

Then again, it doesn't seem to be a part of the Hornady 'system', like it is with more reputable neck turner setups like Sinclair, K&M, etc.
 
Seems like this is the part he's not 'getting'.

Then again, it doesn't seem to be a part of the Hornady 'system', like it is with more reputable neck turner setups like Sinclair, K&M, etc.
Agreed, I'm sure it works but not ideal. If It were me I would measure the arbor and order an expander mandrel and die that was .001" over to complete the set up.
The first set up I bought years ago used a turning arbor that was also a reamer and it worked pretty good but the 21st century set up I'm using now is much better.