Hey guys, how many of you are using a 6.8 SPC UPPER? What real feedback can you all give me? I am looking to build another upper and will be using it to hunt deer and bang steel some. I was thinking of a 16” or 18” barrel. What say you? Wilson Combat has their barrels on sale, but would like feedback or recommendations on other brands.. Thanks!
- Thread starter J.Boney
- Start date
I shoot deer with a 12.5" ARP, those barrels are pretty much the industry standard for the 6.8x43. I have some .223W ARP barrels that shoot great also.
If you don't want to build yourself, Blackstone Arms uses their barrels also.
If you don't want to build yourself, Blackstone Arms uses their barrels also.
Thanks Guys. I just spoke to Harrison today at ARP. I’m gonna do the 16” SOCOM barrel. Is a Nitride or Nickel Boron BCG really worth the extra cost? I know I only need a different bolt for 6.8, but was gonna do a new BCG..
nitride or nbc bcg's wipe down pretty nicely just makes cleaning easier, adds to the lubricity=less friction on parts.
I second the nitride and nickel boron bolts and carriers, way easier to clean. Even if you run it forever without cleaning it, it seems to prevent the real "heavy duty" buildup.
J. Boney,
Let us know how you like that 6.8spc, 16" set-up. I'm guessing the "SOCOM" barrel you mention ARP is close to the actual Colt SOCOM profile which is on the heavy side, should make a good shooter. 6.8 does good in shorter barrels too.
I have a 14.7" Wilson barreled upper in 6.8 that I've honestly never fired. I ended up using the BCG for a 224V upper. I need to get that 6.8 upper broken in. I've got 5 boxes of 110gr Hornady Black I bought when I built the upper. I'm interested in how everyone likes their 6.8 too. Inspire me to go shoot mine.
J. Boney,
Let us know how you like that 6.8spc, 16" set-up. I'm guessing the "SOCOM" barrel you mention ARP is close to the actual Colt SOCOM profile which is on the heavy side, should make a good shooter. 6.8 does good in shorter barrels too.
I have a 14.7" Wilson barreled upper in 6.8 that I've honestly never fired. I ended up using the BCG for a 224V upper. I need to get that 6.8 upper broken in. I've got 5 boxes of 110gr Hornady Black I bought when I built the upper. I'm interested in how everyone likes their 6.8 too. Inspire me to go shoot mine.
It'll be a week or so but I have my first 6.8 barrel coming... I saw that wilson combat sale as well 
I went with the 16" Recon Tactical and plan to load up some 90 gr Speer TNT's, 110 vmax & 120 sst.
This will be my first time using a wilson combat barrel... I watched ever youtube video I could find to see what others are experiencing with them but there is a real lack of videos from the precision perspective. So we shall see.
I went with the 16" Recon Tactical and plan to load up some 90 gr Speer TNT's, 110 vmax & 120 sst.
This will be my first time using a wilson combat barrel... I watched ever youtube video I could find to see what others are experiencing with them but there is a real lack of videos from the precision perspective. So we shall see.
I have a full WC build with thier billet receivers and a 16" fluted barrel. It has been a very accurate rifle but the barrel doesn't respond as well as my 20" ARP barrel when pushed hard.
The WC barrel loves the 120sst at 2.295"with a case full of Benchmark, the velocity isn't great but the accuracy is definitely there. Me and my youngest son killed a nice boar and sow with that load and they didn't seem to notice any velocity loss.
Out of the 20" ARP barrel my 120sst load with AR-COMP is running 2730fps and about .750" MOA sometimes better and that barrel loves the Fed 90gr factory load that's running about 3000fps.
The WC barrel loves the 120sst at 2.295"with a case full of Benchmark, the velocity isn't great but the accuracy is definitely there. Me and my youngest son killed a nice boar and sow with that load and they didn't seem to notice any velocity loss.
Out of the 20" ARP barrel my 120sst load with AR-COMP is running 2730fps and about .750" MOA sometimes better and that barrel loves the Fed 90gr factory load that's running about 3000fps.
I got lots of AR-Comp, what powder charge are you using with 120's.
I'm at work but will be home Sunday and will give what data I have.
Your going to need to use a drop tube with it if you don't allready have one, I made mine out of an Easton Axis carbon arrow.
I have had a 16" from arp. All of the arp barrels i have used or been around did well. My 6.8 is roughly a .750 gun very consistantly. My .223 wylde is a 1/2-5/8 when i actually sort my brass out.
All good feedback fellas, thanks. I already have my upper and handguard. All I need is the barrel, bolt, mags and brass. What brass you guys using? How’s the Starline?
I built this WC 6.8 SBR with NP3 bolt carrier group in 2017 hoping to mount the then promised S&B dual CC 1-8 scope. Now waiting for its revised Feb 2019 arrival date. Since then have used the red dot and S&B 1-4 short dot. Mostly hog, some deer hunting. Easy to carry in small backpack.
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Badass bro! I like it!
I have one I built using a 16in ARP barrel. I use it for hunting so I dont shoot it much outside of hunting season but I can get sub MOA groups using XM68GD.
Haven't tried any Starline yet, all I have used since 2009 or so has been Hornady, S&B made Hornady and SSA.
The Hornady brass is good but a little heavy with less capacity, S&B made Hornady good when weight sorted and more capacity and the original SSA pre Nosler buyout is good quality if you can find any.
I still have 900-1000 of the original SSA new in the bags.
The Hornady 120sst factory loads have been very good for me as well, the case I'm using now is running 2620fps from my 20" ARP barrel and hope they haven't watered them down when I finish the case and need more.
6.8 SPC is great deer medicine - mine is mostly used for coyotes and pigs though. ARP made my 12.5” barrel and it zings 90g Gold Dots at 2300-2350fps, which is plenty for my setup being that its oriented towards night hunting and I’m almost always engaging inside of 150 yards. Usually inside of 50 yards.
You can expect higher velocity with a longer barrel and if you reload. Fortunately, 6.8 is the only caliber I don’t reload for, and that’s by design.
You can expect higher velocity with a longer barrel and if you reload. Fortunately, 6.8 is the only caliber I don’t reload for, and that’s by design.
My 16” is a WC fluted Recon. Solid .5” gun. I should get that gun back out one of these days.
Here’s a group pic of my buddy’s that I put together. Same specs as mine. Hornady 110 Vmax at 100 yards. Top hole is 7 rounds. I was walking his old school Nikon Buckmaster to the top of the diamond. I was on that day.
Here’s a group pic of my buddy’s that I put together. Same specs as mine. Hornady 110 Vmax at 100 yards. Top hole is 7 rounds. I was walking his old school Nikon Buckmaster to the top of the diamond. I was on that day.
My father and I have done the 6.8 SPC dance a few times now. Getting a quality barrel (e.g. correct gas port size, accurate) is important. Getting the action spring and buffer matched to manage how it runs, super important. Basic stuff, I know - but, getting it wrong will abuse brass and your rifle. My Dad is running JP bolts and a coated carrier at this point, having broken several. His range bag includes spare bolts, extractors, and other small arms repair parts. He's not a "match" grade shooter, but he does put a lot of rounds down range banging steel and bagging an occasional piggy.
My 6.8 is relatively new - haven't finished gathering chrono data. Mostly got it to help work up loads for my Dad, honestly (don't need to be match accurate, just safe). I have a 16 inch Bison barrel on it, mostly for reasons of economy. I've been meaning to get it dialed in for the 120 grain SST...I just shot part of a box a couple weeks back with an SD of 6 fps and want to know what it will do. I threw on old school Trijicon Accupoint on it (the 1.25-4x variety), but need a better mount. The 120 clocked around 2450 fps for me. Of course, I could always just load 90 grain and go ham ;-).
My 6.8 is relatively new - haven't finished gathering chrono data. Mostly got it to help work up loads for my Dad, honestly (don't need to be match accurate, just safe). I have a 16 inch Bison barrel on it, mostly for reasons of economy. I've been meaning to get it dialed in for the 120 grain SST...I just shot part of a box a couple weeks back with an SD of 6 fps and want to know what it will do. I threw on old school Trijicon Accupoint on it (the 1.25-4x variety), but need a better mount. The 120 clocked around 2450 fps for me. Of course, I could always just load 90 grain and go ham ;-).
A few years back I bought a 6.8 upper from bison armory. I bought with a quad rail and a medium profile 16" barrel. It was a heavy pig and I quickly sold off the quad for a UL forearm and sent the barrel out to be fluted. I now have a 7.5 lb deer hammer that I love to carry and hunt with. I have a strikeeagle 1-6 on it that works just fine for the short distances I hunt at.
For loads I run a 95TTSX over RL10x in Hornaday brass. Last time I ran it on a crono it was around 2850. I set up the gun to drive deer and hunt in tight spots where shots under 30 yards are 10x more common than shots over 75 yards. It has been exceptional in that role.
I typically see 2" groups when I zero, but I neither care or need more accuracy from the load. I'm sure someone could get more out of it.
If I have one comment about the 6.8 for deer its that blood trails aren't near as strong with it as say a 270. Most of the time they flop over where they stand or run 15 yards and die, so that in itself has not been a huge issue for me.
For loads I run a 95TTSX over RL10x in Hornaday brass. Last time I ran it on a crono it was around 2850. I set up the gun to drive deer and hunt in tight spots where shots under 30 yards are 10x more common than shots over 75 yards. It has been exceptional in that role.
I typically see 2" groups when I zero, but I neither care or need more accuracy from the load. I'm sure someone could get more out of it.
If I have one comment about the 6.8 for deer its that blood trails aren't near as strong with it as say a 270. Most of the time they flop over where they stand or run 15 yards and die, so that in itself has not been a huge issue for me.
I almost went that way but I was wanting my build to be some what of a medium-lightweight and the only barrel I saw available from WOA looked to be more on the heavy side. That said WOA has a great reputation, if it suits you, get it
I have a 16" ARP barrel for my 6.8. Accurate barrel, very happy with it.
I have a 6.8 Cardinal Arms upper I use. it is remarkably accurate for a chrome lined barrel. Seems to shoot everything pretty well but shoots S&B 110 gr PTS very well. It really liked the original 90 gr HP from SSA as well but my stockpile of those is just about depleted and they're no long made, haven't been for quite some time. They were loaded really hot which I liked. My upper has a Clark carbon fiber handguard which cut the weight way down and a 2.5x10 Weaver scope.
XM68GD appears to have completely dried up. I missed getting them for .50 cpr or whatever it was
It has definitely dried up, very rarely PSA will get some in stock but it is very infrequent. I paid a decent bit for my stock pile of it, with how little I shoot it, only the deer I shoot and one rsnge trio to confirm zero before the season starts, I have enough of it to last me several life tines of hunting.
Don't. Build a Grendel instead. Ballistically superior.
Is the 6.5 Grendel built on a large frame AR or regular?
Regular. This was hashed out 10+ years ago. There is zero reason to go with a 6.8. Out to 500 yards they are similar but past that 6.5 Shines and has much better bullet selection. Its a legit 1200 yard target round.
I have three Grendels, got board and a little pissed at feeding stoppages. After seeing how smoothly and flawlessly my Valkyrie cycles through 15-25 mag fed rounds I wanted to try this. No worries though, my Grendels are staying around, just limited to mags of ten rounds or less to keep them reliable.
I am very familiar with the Grendel and what it can do. However, I will not be using this for LR. I have my .260 bolt gun for LR..
6.8 sometimes struggles with mag issues as well. I have a few new ones to try next time I’m home but right now I have a 15 round mag and am limited to 10 or else it starts to have feeding issues. Almost went the LWRC route just to get the 6.8 pmags to not have to worry.
I run pri mags with my 6.8 and 5.56x42. The only issues i have are running supressed and letting it get to dirty. Running 25 round or 15 round mags. Neither the 6.8 nor grendel are great 1000+ yard rounds. You can get hits, but they are not a 260, 6.5x47, or 6.5 creedmoor. Although this debate seems to stir alot of emotion on whichever side someone has chosen.
Well no shit. It's a small frame AR.
Of all the small frame AR rounds, 6.5G is by leaps and bounds superior, which is the point.
There is zero reason to go with 6.8. ZERO.
I don't get why this is difficult to understand.
What does 6.8 offer over 6.5g? Waiting......
Tell us more about these broken parts.
You seem very passionate to get people to see your side. I wouldn’t worry about what others shoot. Who cares? However, I thought 6.8 was a better round for an SBR since most of its velocity happens within the first 10” but I’ll wait for you to correct me there too.
You didn't even know what size AR the round is used in but you want to pick an argument?
It's not a matter of sides, it's fact vs fiction.
Argument? Nah. I could care less what you own and shoot, which is the whole point. However, he asked about 6.8. You asked about advantages of 6.8 over 6.5. In an SBR there is an advantage. My statement stands. Don’t loose to much sleep tonight big guy
That's actually one of my reasons to get a 6.8 barrel... to test it against it's exactly matching brother that is .3 millimeters smaller.
Rhetorical questions...how do they work?
Since reading is complicated let me repeat this for you.
<500y 6.8=6.5
>500y 6.5>>>>>6.8
All while having vasty superior bullet selection and being much more versitile.
So why would anyone buy a 6.8 knowing this? It's more expesnive, has less performance and is less versitile. Does wolf make cheap plinking 6.8?
So before you start coping an attitude for being merely educated, show some respect and appreciate that someone is doing you a favor.
You came here ignorant and got the cliff notes for 10 years of research. Don't be a bitch about it.
You can get a good look at a tbone by sticking your head up a bulls ass, but I'll take the butchers word for it.
I built a 6.8SPC upper for my SBR a few years ago. I got the barrel from Bison Armory, 11.5" and I shoot it suppressed. I haven't had any issues with the barrel, bolt, magazines (PRI) or ammo (some reloads but mostly factory ammo).
I chose the cartridge because I wanted something different. My barrel is 1:7 twist so I can shoot subsonics through it (200g Woodleigh's). I still enjoy it.
I chose the cartridge because I wanted something different. My barrel is 1:7 twist so I can shoot subsonics through it (200g Woodleigh's). I still enjoy it.
Most of this is fanboy stuff anyway (Oops, gonna get flames on that one).
By Fanboy I generally mean factory support. If you shoot mostly factory ammo, then off-the-shelf ammo matters.
Advertising budgets usually determine popularity.
If you reload, then off-the-shelf components matter.
If you look at most AR-15 compatible rounds, they generally follow the .223 type case, necked up or down, the 6.8 SPC type case, necked up or down, or the Grendel case, necked up or down. Sometimes the body length or overall case length is shortened or lengthened, but those case styles cover most of what we find. Sometimes the heritage of the case shape matters, sometimes it doesn't.
The bullet makers make or break a cartridge. Powders that burn in the first 10 inches, to powders that are still burning out the end of a 20" can optimize most of these for a limited range of performance. Twist rates work their way into the evaluations, like the 224V being better than the 22N because of the 7 twist vs the 8 twist initially available.
With a finely divided diameter range available, like this;
5.56mm 5.7mm .224"
6mm 6.2mm .244"
25-45 6.5mm .257"
6.5mm 6.7mm .264"
6.8mm 7.0mm .277"
7mm 7.2mm .284"
7.62mm 7.8mm .308"-.310"
Why can't bullets, cases, charges, barrel lengths and twists
be designed for specific applications in most of those?
Which one is the BEST?
By Fanboy I generally mean factory support. If you shoot mostly factory ammo, then off-the-shelf ammo matters.
Advertising budgets usually determine popularity.
If you reload, then off-the-shelf components matter.
If you look at most AR-15 compatible rounds, they generally follow the .223 type case, necked up or down, the 6.8 SPC type case, necked up or down, or the Grendel case, necked up or down. Sometimes the body length or overall case length is shortened or lengthened, but those case styles cover most of what we find. Sometimes the heritage of the case shape matters, sometimes it doesn't.
The bullet makers make or break a cartridge. Powders that burn in the first 10 inches, to powders that are still burning out the end of a 20" can optimize most of these for a limited range of performance. Twist rates work their way into the evaluations, like the 224V being better than the 22N because of the 7 twist vs the 8 twist initially available.
With a finely divided diameter range available, like this;
5.56mm 5.7mm .224"
6mm 6.2mm .244"
25-45 6.5mm .257"
6.5mm 6.7mm .264"
6.8mm 7.0mm .277"
7mm 7.2mm .284"
7.62mm 7.8mm .308"-.310"
Why can't bullets, cases, charges, barrel lengths and twists
be designed for specific applications in most of those?
Which one is the BEST?
6.8spc to about 350yds has more energy than grendel. For anyone hunting at distances that are ethical to hunt with an ar15 should go with the 6.8 for that but of extra energy. The extra energy is especially seen when you hand load to spc2 pressures.
People keep touting having steel case ammo as a benefit, I dont run wolf in my 223 rifles so why would I run it in a 6.5 or 6.8 rifle? Having steel as an option has zero affect on my choices because I won't shoot steel unless I'm shooting an ak.
People keep touting having steel case ammo as a benefit, I dont run wolf in my 223 rifles so why would I run it in a 6.5 or 6.8 rifle? Having steel as an option has zero affect on my choices because I won't shoot steel unless I'm shooting an ak.
Practice. You can build a clone with a beater barrel to shoot. Even wolf 6.5G is superior to any 5.56 loading at range. More energy and .bc.
I run cheap steel case through my Sr15's and SR25 all the time. At less than 100 yards on paper its great. If you actually shoot and train there is a huge value to be able to shoot more for the same cost. Casehead separation is the only real risk. Which happens with the Scar17s extraction and why I don't shoot steel in it anymore. But for any non precision ( ie cut rifle barrel) gun you can't beat the value. That extra money buys more ammo, guns, optics and training classes.
The energy disparity between 6.8 and 6.5 is neglegable. It's the performance at range that separates the two.
I run cheap steel case through my Sr15's and SR25 all the time. At less than 100 yards on paper its great. If you actually shoot and train there is a huge value to be able to shoot more for the same cost. Casehead separation is the only real risk. Which happens with the Scar17s extraction and why I don't shoot steel in it anymore. But for any non precision ( ie cut rifle barrel) gun you can't beat the value. That extra money buys more ammo, guns, optics and training classes.
The energy disparity between 6.8 and 6.5 is neglegable. It's the performance at range that separates the two.
Bolt lug failures, extractor failures are the two big ones that "dead line" the weapon. He's experienced at least two of each at my last count. One of which was the bolt that shipped with the barrel. In his rifles, not ever combination of BCG works interchangeably - so he's got the combination that runs best in each rifle with spares on hand.
He's also seen very fast wear on gas rings (which is relatively minor) to the point that those have come off in pieces when detail stripped. Obviously, bad magazines can cause issues, but those are pretty easy to identify and correct.
I'm not sure on what your overall experience level is with the AR-15 platform generally, and it's not my intent to derail the thread with a dissertation on design strengths and weaknesses - that seems like the general thrust of your line of questioning if I understand it and there are a wealth of resources capable of addressing it with the depth it deserves.
Not terribly experienced with the AR platform.
I know the online history of broken bolts in the history of the military carbine, the back and forth of the 6.5 breaking bolts, and now your dad having bolt/BCG issues with the 6.8.
I asked because I have a 6.8 build that I haven't shot much, some 5.56's, and a 22 Nosler that I use both 5.56 bolts and 6.8 bolts (6mm Hagar necked down).
Read all the bla bla bla about head size and bolt thrust.
Broken parts in any of these would be a concern for me.
I know the online history of broken bolts in the history of the military carbine, the back and forth of the 6.5 breaking bolts, and now your dad having bolt/BCG issues with the 6.8.
I asked because I have a 6.8 build that I haven't shot much, some 5.56's, and a 22 Nosler that I use both 5.56 bolts and 6.8 bolts (6mm Hagar necked down).
Read all the bla bla bla about head size and bolt thrust.
Broken parts in any of these would be a concern for me.
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