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6mm ARC Knights Armament LPR Build

unclemoak

d.wilson mfg
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 13, 2008
200
502
Englewood, CO
www.dwilsonmfg.com
I'm no stranger to the KAC community. Recently I got the wild hair up my butt to take my mostly stock LPR and convert it to 6mm ARC.

I've been shooting this thing for a a few weeks in .223, but the ballistics really drop off after 600 yards or so, even with heavier 77 gr ammo.

Currently I'm using a somewhat stock rifle. The few changes include a Geissele SSA-E trigger and MK18 rail, mainly due to the ARCA interface on the bottom to mount bipods, tripods, etc.

I use a Nightforce ATACR 4-16x42 F1 scope and Energetic Arms Vox can.

The current project will be broken into a few segments and initial switch to 6mm ARC and then spinning up a custom barrel that utilizes the factory Mod 2 gas system.


4lFtVFt.jpg
 
I’ve never looked at a Grendel bolt, god it looks weak.
 
I’ve never looked at a Grendel bolt, god it looks weak.

The weakness of the bolt the biggest reason Hornady capped the pressure at 52,000 psi. Supposedly, they are publishing different data for bolt guns up over 60k psi.

There are a few different bolt designs out there, so I’ll have to do some reading on which may work the best and/or is the strongest. For now, I’m going to use the JP.
 
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What is the service life of a Grendel bolt?


An excerpt from another forum:

I kept a running tally of broken bolts that were reported here or on the Grendel forum for nearly 2 years. Almost every bolt that broke was running handloads, and most admitted to running on the high end, or even over the max recommended pressures.

There were 2 exceptions. 1 was broken using handloads, but the owner swore he was only using factory loading data. The other was broken using almost exclusively Les Baer/Black Hills loaded ammo, though there were a few boxes of AA ammo also in that rifle.

I stopped keeping track well over a year ago, when the initial rash of complaints seemed to completely disappear. Since then, I have only heard of a single broken bolt, and one broken extractor.

That said, I could only track the bolts broken that were reported here or on the Grendel forum, there may well have been others, but I have no data, (obviously) for them. As JFA noted, the split was essentially 50/50 for AA vs others.

However, since that initial rash of complaints, AA has upgraded their bolt, and now even makes an extended life bolt with hard chrome plating. I have had NO reports of that bolt breaking, (Mine has approaching 3000 rounds on it, and was one of the prototypes). I also have had no complaints about the "2nd Generation" bolts, the ones that are now being used as the standard bolt.

Bolt issues do not appear to be a problem at this point.

Bill
 
The weakness of the bolt the biggest reason Hornady capped the pressure at 52,000 psi. Supposedly, they are publishing different data for bolt guns up over 60k psi.

There are a few different bolt designs out there, so I’ll have to do some reading on which may work the best and/or is the strongest. For now, I’m going to use the JP.

Kinda sorta. 52ksi over the web of a PPC/grendel-based case is roughly equivalent to a 65-70ksi pressure over a .223 web. It's to keep the bolt thrust comparable between the two head diameters. The same thing was done with the 6.5 Grendel. As was posted above, bolt breakage issues are almost exclusively from off-kilter fitment between the bolt and barrel extension, or folks hot loading well over 55ksi. While removing material off of the bolt face technically makes the bolt weaker it's marginal. The stress in the bolt lugs-- like the point of failure happens as far away from the bolt face it possibly could be. I haven't analyzed the bolt face personally but a colleague was looking into it at one point and IIRC the highest point of stress was at the root of the lug on the back side. Anyway, the biggest issue is that you're increasing force by increasing case diameter and doing so cuts into safety factor that was built in for the .223/5.56 size cartridge. It's not necessarily that the bolts are weaker, it's more that you're putting more force on them.

The cases can handle 60-65ksi just like anything else in a properly supported chamber with a strong enough bolt. In this case it's typically a bolt (m700 footprint) that was meant to handle up to standard magnum offerings, so the little ARC case is no sweat.

ETA: Just for reference, SAAMI max pressure for .223 is 55,000psi, same for 6.8 SPC. 5.56 is not a SAAMI cartridge but it runs at 57,000psi. The 3-5ksi difference between the Grendel variants and these others... if we were to run the ARC at 57ksi in a gas gun, for example, would account for maybe 50-75fps IMO.
 
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I’m a follower of you on social media, love your work. Can’t wait to see this!
 
While I'm waiting on my rifle length gas tube to arrive and as the ammo shipments are pouring in, I decided to take a look at the current LPR barrel to get a better idea of what I want to do with the new one.

Current one weighs roughly 37 oz.
QVhsYEI.jpg


Some things I'd like to change.
  1. Slightly heavier contour similar to the Mod 1 LPR's . Since the gun, even with the can on the front, is a little unbalanced toward the rear, I'd like to add weight to the front. The barrel currently tapers from 0.983 at the chamber, down to 0.810", then back up to 0.981" before the gas block journal. I'd like to change this to 0.980" at the chamber, and taper to 0.90" or at the gas block journal.
  2. Switch from 1/2-28 threads at the muzzle to 5/8-24. I currently have a 5/8-24 direct thread adapter for my EA Vox S can, so I'd like to use that. Granted I could just buy a 1/2-28 direct thread adapter, but it seems more 6mm ARC barrels on the market are using the larger 5/8" threads, so the plan is to go with that.
  3. Length. While I like the 18" length currently, I'm toying with the idea of stretching it out to 19-20" versus the factory 18" for two reasons. 1) I might switch to a reflex style can and 2) get more velocity. I'll have to do some more reading on the latter to understand how many FPS I could gain by adding an extra 2" of barrel.
pPql2Jn.jpg
 
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1605741342253.png


This was somewhat close for me, my 10.5" was at 2320, 18" at 2643 with factory match 108gr ELD-M. Keep in mind I have Bartlein barrels, and these seem to be pretty quick at that. 20" should get you somewhere in the order of 25-50fps over the 18".
 
Love the updates. I was kinda on the fence between 18 and 20 myself until I saw this data that Mos Tek published. Could have been the particular barrels they used for 19 and 20 data points, but it seems like diminishing returns imo.

C2C41372-D34A-4312-9205-FF002E1996D6.png
735C4275-8A25-4E09-9A44-253E07223F93.png
98BCEA5E-D3F4-4DC0-A9BC-42303EA732B2.png
 
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Put together a 12" ARC Pistol upper recently. 2330fps Avg with 108 factory. No optic yet for groups, just got it together and chrono'd my rounds adjusting the gas block open.
 
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Love the updates. I was kinda on the fence between 18 and 20 myself until I saw this data that Mos Tek published. Could have been the particular barrels they used for 19 and 20 data points, but it seems like finishing returns imo.

Based on those charts, it hardly seems worth it to go with a longer barrel.
 
Based on those charts, it hardly seems worth it to go with a longer barrel.
My thoughts exactly. I’d rather keep the compactness of a traditional gasser and make up for whatever ‘projected’ velocity loss with a hotter load.
 
My thoughts exactly. I’d rather keep the compactness of a traditional gasser and make up for whatever ‘projected’ velocity loss with a hotter load.

Careful. I had mentioned this in another thread but Grendel variants at 52,000psi is already matching a .223/5.56 bolt thrust roughly equivalent to 65,000-70,000psi loading. I know a lot of folks like to look at the book max load as a starting point but I'd really suggest against it in 6.5G, 6.8spc, and the ARC in an AR-15.

Lighter bullets, however, might get you more what you're after. With the right powder, 87gr Vmax's (BC equivalent to 73-77gr .224 projectiles) can still be pushed 2500-2650fps in the shorties (12-14") and basically match 16-18" .223 trajectories with more energy on target.
 
The Geissele rail is quite amazing. Have one on a 18" SPC and it's a fantastic marriage especially for night hunting with a tripod. Wishing it was a 6 ARC instead of SPC though .. pound for pound the ARC has significantly more energy on target at range.

Highly recommend.
 
Based on those charts, it hardly seems worth it to go with a longer barrel.


I did this simple chart to help understand the ballistic impact of MV differences. This is at 700yds, for a Berger 105gr Hybrid, all at the same environment. They are referenced off the 2700fps results... so the 2500fps will have 20% more drop, 13% more wind deflection and 18% less energy at 700yds than the 2700fps MV, whereas the 2800fps will have 8% less drop, 6% less wind deflection and 10% more energy.

If are you aren't shooting out as far as 700, maybe this doesn't mean as much to you.


MV fps of 105grdrop at 700wind at 700 Energy at 700
250020%13%-18%
26009%6%-9%
27000%0%0%
2800-8%-6%10%
3050 (my 6x47L bolt gun load)-26%-17%35%
 
Gas tube and Bartlein barrel blank came in today.

Got the gas tube installed and dumped a few rounds in the shop bullet trap. Everything seemed to cycle find. I’ll hit the range this weekend to see how this BA barrel groups.
 
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Managed to get to the indoor range for a quick zero today then went out to the mountains to shoot for distance.

Local indoor range fortunately has targets out to 100 yds. So it was quick to get one paper at 25, 50, then shoot a few groups at 100.
8sB7VxT.jpg


Took a few rounds to walk it in.

KECL5Qs.jpg


Shot halfway decent groups at 100 yds. Certainly not my best shooting, but I'm a bit rusty, and it's a new barrel, so I'll blame it on that.
E7uKwWt.jpg


Over the pile of rounds I shot, my average MV was 2575 FPS.

vjf8Lqj.jpg


Dope for the day.

fOEB379.jpg



Took a drive out to my secret shooting spot in the mountains.
BJgb0fh.jpg



Had no problem making hits at 650 yards on a 12" gong.
JFtfluy.jpg
 
Put together a 12" ARC Pistol upper recently. 2330fps Avg with 108 factory. No optic yet for groups, just got it together and chrono'd my rounds adjusting the gas block open.

That seems low for a custom 12" based on my 10.5" results (2320fps) on a brand new barrel, what barrel mfg?
 
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Managed to get to the indoor range for a quick zero today then went out to the mountains to shoot for distance.

Local indoor range fortunately has targets out to 100 yds. So it was quick to get one paper at 25, 50, then shoot a few groups at 100.
8sB7VxT.jpg


Took a few rounds to walk it in.

KECL5Qs.jpg


Shot halfway decent groups at 100 yds. Certainly not my best shooting, but I'm a bit rusty, and it's a new barrel, so I'll blame it on that.
E7uKwWt.jpg


Over the pile of rounds I shot, my average MV was 2575 FPS.

vjf8Lqj.jpg


Dope for the day.

fOEB379.jpg



Took a drive out to my secret shooting spot in the mountains.
BJgb0fh.jpg



Had no problem making hits at 650 yards on a 12" gong.
JFtfluy.jpg

What length barrel did you end up going with? I saw you mentioned potentially going longer than 18".
 
That seems low for a custom 12" based on my 10.5" results (2320fps) on a brand new barrel, what barrel mfg?

It's one I spun up from a used 6 creed Proof barrel. Had 500-600 creedmoor on it before I cut it down.
 
Awesome build. Trying to finish up mine as well. Where did you find the Geissele MK18 rail? Been looking for one for months. That’s what I’m going to run on mine.
 
Awesome build. Trying to finish up mine as well. Where did you find the Geissele MK18 rail? Been looking for one for months. That’s what I’m going to run on mine.

We’re just at the tip of the iceberg with this build. Still have to turn a barrel for it to utilize the stock Mod 2 gas system.

I bought the gun used, the rail came on it, which I’ve come to appreciate. I love the ARCA interface in the bottom and ease of removal to service the gun over the stock URX 4 that would have come originally on the gun.
 
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You don’t want to use a .125” bolt face recess with any of the PPC-based cases due to the rim thickness, which demands a certain extractor lip thickness. Grendel bolts use .136” (-.003”/no +). They are also longer on the tail so you get the same firing pin protrusion with standard pins due to the face being set back around .010”. Bolt overall length on an optimum-built Grendel bolt should be at 2.810-2.811”.

Quality Grendel bolts are made from a particular type of AQ 9000 series alloy, and there are radiuses at different places to increase the lug root strength. If you ever look at a SCAR-17 bolt, it has very thin walls as well around the lug roots, but they use a higher-end alloy to make it viable with a much higher pressure cartridge (7.62 NATO), with far more bolt thrust.

Last time I ran the Grendel bolt thrust calculations, it was on-par with 5.56 bolt thrust. Bolt thrust isn’t measured in chamber pressure, so trying to equate it with that doesn’t make a lot of sense. One of the top engineers in the industry did all the work on designing and testing the Grendel bolt and extractor, based on his experience already with the .50 Beowulf bolt, which was engineered from where Colt left off with the 7.62x39 Sporter.

Extractors have to be dialed-in with metallurgy, ideal tool steel, and geometry. The extractor pin locations is different too, based on the need to snap over a much larger diameter case head within the constraints of the standard AR-15 barrel extension, which has to be kept to tighter tolerances of concentricity/uniformity than a rack-grade 5.56 extension. Many of the 5.56 barrel extensions on the market don’t meet the M16/M4 TDP to specific dimensional call-outs as it is.

I really like the BAT Machine extensions if you’re sourcing an extension for this build.

I’ve been shooting 6.5 Grendel in significant volume since 2009 across multiple barrel lengths from 22” RLGS down to 12” CLGS, and everything in-between, with several large boxes of spent brass to prove it. I still haven’t broken a bolt.

The main configuration that is notorious for breaking bolts in any of the modern cartridges in the AR-15 is 18”, MLGS, too large of a gas port.

I don’t care what cartridge you shoot between 5.56, 6.5 Grendel, with maybe the exception of .204 Ruger. If you have that much plug dwell time past the port with a large port, you’re going to suffer from early unlocking while there is still residual bolt thrust, which causes torsional loads that will exceed the ability of the bolt lugs to hold up-especially the lugs adjacent to the extractor pocket.

Same thing with a suppressed 10” gun with too large of a port. Adding a high efficiency suppressor (non flow-through design) to an already excessive-gassed system will put undue torsional stress on the bolt.

On 6.5 Grendel, any time I see a MLGS gas port on either an 18” or even 16” barrel that is larger than .076”, I won’t even mess with that barrel unless the gas can be choked off with a plug.

Due to the 6mm ARC having a similar case capacity and SAAMI MAP, but with a smaller bore volume, I think I would lean towards a longer gas system length to keep the port pressure down, especially if shooting the long 103-108gr class of high BC bullets. In fact, some companies are even using an ELGS +2” on 18” barrels, let along 20” and longer.

Controlling the port pressure will be key in setting up for optimum window of the cyclic rate for the AR-15.

I know a lot of the AR-15s chambered in 6mm AR use ELGS as well, so there are many years of experience already on what it takes to make a 6mm Grendel run well.

The other limiting factor for AR-15 pressure containment is the length of the barrel extension lugs, which keep you in the 55,000psi chamber pressure limit once you get into case heads that are larger than the 5.56.
 
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I went rifle+1 for my 18", and carbine+1 on my 10.5", and use an adjustable gas block as I'm shooting suppressed. I've had no issues so far, with a Toolcraft 9310 bolt. We'll see how things go after I wear out these first barrels. I'm not seeing any undue wear as of yet, and with the gas blocks adjusted, the rifle runs like a top. I can't imagine running suppressed without the ability to cut down the gas, though.
 
I’m using Bootleg adjustable carriers in all my AR-15s that I suppress.

I’ll never use an adjustable gas block again most likely. I was never a fan of most of them that use the little set screws that have always carbon-locked on me.

e8989256-057e-44d5-8e96-c693fa28076e_zpsywuwizij.jpg


20181106_095052_zpsozoirm3f.jpg
 
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FWIW, my Superlatives have not carbon locked on me, but I adjust them a click back and forward every 4-500 rounds. That said, I effectively treat them as custom-ported gas blocks. Once they're set, I don't have to mess with them again. I just keep them functional in case I change to a different suppressor in the future.

With an adjustable BCG, the volume/velocity of gas flowing the gas key isn't reduced, is it? You're just allowing more to bypass out the ports on the side, correct? Does this have the same effect on unlock time? How's the port-pop? I've only been around one before, and it seemed pretty loud from behind the rifle, but it was an old SDN6 suppressor with really high backpressure, and I have no idea what the gas port sizing was like. The idea is neat. I wouldn't want to shoot one at an indoor range, hah, but I also wouldn't want to shoot at an indoor range!

I do like the idea, being able to run an extremely slim-line gas block is appealing to give more clearance with the handguard, but I don't like the idea of increasing port-pop/shooter's ear numbers. It sounds like you have a lot of experience with these and also adjustable gas blocks, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Clearly you prefer the adjustable BCG; if there is no major downside beyond just losing some granularity on adjustment, they sound like a nice way to go.
 
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You don’t want to use a .125” bolt face recess with any of the PPC-based cases due to the rim thickness, which demands a certain extractor lip thickness. Grendel bolts use .136” (-.003”/no +). They are also longer on the tail so you get the same firing pin protrusion with standard pins due to the face being set back around .010”. Bolt overall length on an optimum-built Grendel bolt should be at 2.810-2.811”.

Quality Grendel bolts are made from a particular type of AQ 9000 series alloy, and there are radiuses at different places to increase the lug root strength. If you ever look at a SCAR-17 bolt, it has very thin walls as well around the lug roots, but they use a higher-end alloy to make it viable with a much higher pressure cartridge (7.62 NATO), with far more bolt thrust.

Last time I ran the Grendel bolt thrust calculations, it was on-par with 5.56 bolt thrust. Bolt thrust isn’t measured in chamber pressure, so trying to equate it with that doesn’t make a lot of sense. One of the top engineers in the industry did all the work on designing and testing the Grendel bolt and extractor, based on his experience already with the .50 Beowulf bolt, which was engineered from where Colt left off with the 7.62x39 Sporter.

Extractors have to be dialed-in with metallurgy, ideal tool steel, and geometry. The extractor pin locations is different too, based on the need to snap over a much larger diameter case head within the constraints of the standard AR-15 barrel extension, which has to be kept to tighter tolerances of concentricity/uniformity than a rack-grade 5.56 extension. Many of the 5.56 barrel extensions on the market don’t meet the M16/M4 TDP to specific dimensional call-outs as it is.

I really like the BAT Machine extensions if you’re sourcing an extension for this build.

I’ve been shooting 6.5 Grendel in significant volume since 2009 across multiple barrel lengths from 22” RLGS down to 12” CLGS, and everything in-between, with several large boxes of spent brass to prove it. I still haven’t broken a bolt.

The main configuration that is notorious for breaking bolts in any of the modern cartridges in the AR-15 is 18”, MLGS, too large of a gas port.

I don’t care what cartridge you shoot between 5.56, 6.5 Grendel, with maybe the exception of .204 Ruger. If you have that much plug dwell time past the port with a large port, you’re going to suffer from early unlocking while there is still residual bolt thrust, which causes torsional loads that will exceed the ability of the bolt lugs to hold up-especially the lugs adjacent to the extractor pocket.

Same thing with a suppressed 10” gun with too large of a port. Adding a high efficiency suppressor (non flow-through design) to an already excessive-gassed system will put undue torsional stress on the bolt.

On 6.5 Grendel, any time I see a MLGS gas port on either an 18” or even 16” barrel that is larger than .076”, I won’t even mess with that barrel unless the gas can be choked off with a plug.

Due to the 6mm ARC having a similar case capacity and SAAMI MAP, but with a smaller bore volume, I think I would lean towards a longer gas system length to keep the port pressure down, especially if shooting the long 103-108gr class of high BC bullets. In fact, some companies are even using an ELGS +2” on 18” barrels, let along 20” and longer.

Controlling the port pressure will be key in setting up for optimum window of the cyclic rate for the AR-15.

I know a lot of the AR-15s chambered in 6mm AR use ELGS as well, so there are many years of experience already on what it takes to make a 6mm Grendel run well.

The other limiting factor for AR-15 pressure containment is the length of the barrel extension lugs, which keep you in the 55,000psi chamber pressure limit once you get into case heads that are larger than the 5.56.

Lots of good info there. Thanks!

Fortunately with making a barrel from scratch, I’ll be able to make the gas port very small, just enough to cycle the action.
 
FWIW, my Superlatives have not carbon locked on me, but I adjust them a click back and forward every 4-500 rounds. That said, I effectively treat them as custom-ported gas blocks. Once they're set, I don't have to mess with them again. I just keep them functional in case I change to a different suppressor in the future.

With an adjustable BCG, the volume/velocity of gas flowing the gas key isn't reduced, is it? You're just allowing more to bypass out the ports on the side, correct? Does this have the same effect on unlock time? How's the port-pop? I've only been around one before, and it seemed pretty loud from behind the rifle, but it was an old SDN6 suppressor with really high backpressure, and I have no idea what the gas port sizing was like. The idea is neat. I wouldn't want to shoot one at an indoor range, hah, but I also wouldn't want to shoot at an indoor range!

I do like the idea, being able to run an extremely slim-line gas block is appealing to give more clearance with the handguard, but I don't like the idea of increasing port-pop/shooter's ear numbers. It sounds like you have a lot of experience with these and also adjustable gas blocks, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Clearly you prefer the adjustable BCG; if there is no major downside beyond just losing some granularity on adjustment, they sound like a nice way to go.
With adjustable gas, the original intent of it on military weapons is to mitigate the effects of weather (temperature gradients), ammo types, and fouling. Take the FAL as an example.

On the Bootleg and 2A Armament adjustable carriers, the gas flows through the key, which is still a standard key, then goes through a regulator with different port diameters. It’s a barrel shaft with different ports in it that choke the gas there, rather than at the gas port itself.

Whether you choke at the gas port or at the carrier, there will always be supersonic gas emitting from the normal vent holes in the bolt carrier and it will be pronounced with a high-efficiency can. I prefer .30 cal cans on 6.5 gas guns for this reason, which is what I have.

The volume of gas within the window of time will be choked as you select smaller gas regulator positions.

With the Bootleg, you do only have 4 positions, one of which is fully-open, but this has proven to be a good spread of gas regulator options for me in the small frame so far. I just shoot suppressed all the time anyway, on the fully-suppressed position. If I need more gas in extreme cold, for example, I can open it up.

I’m not sure how port vent noise would even compare to all the other muzzle blast at an indoor range.
 
With adjustable gas, the original intent of it on military weapons is to mitigate the effects of weather (temperature gradients), ammo types, and fouling. Take the FAL as an example.

On the Bootleg and 2A Armament adjustable carriers, the gas flows through the key, which is still a standard key, then goes through a regulator with different port diameters. It’s a barrel shaft with different ports in it that choke the gas there, rather than at the gas port itself.

Whether you choke at the gas port or at the carrier, there will always be supersonic gas emitting from the normal vent holes in the bolt carrier and it will be pronounced with a high-efficiency can. I prefer .30 cal cans on 6.5 gas guns for this reason, which is what I have.

The volume of gas within the window of time will be choked as you select smaller gas regulator positions.

With the Bootleg, you do only have 4 positions, one of which is fully-open, but this has proven to be a good spread of gas regulator options for me in the small frame so far. I just shoot suppressed all the time anyway, on the fully-suppressed position. If I need more gas in extreme cold, for example, I can open it up.

I’m not sure how port vent noise would even compare to all the other muzzle blast at an indoor range.

FAL lets you tune a lot, you've got the Gr/A setting for all those times you're launching grenades, but then another 14 settings on the regulator sleeve, and it's venting pre-piston, like an AGB does (though the piston is the BCG in this case). I have a bunch of FALs and this is one of the best things about them.

Fair enough regarding the Bootleg setup. Your usage mimics mine, I just need a suppressed setting that prevents early unlocking/excessive BCG velocity + ability to crank it open (well, closed on the vents) if fouling becomes a problem. I'd like a little more adjustment range, perhaps 6 or 8 settings but 4 should be sufficient assuming the suppressed setting is bypassing enough gas to 'solve' the overgassing on efficient suppressors. I appreciate the insight from experience!
 
Hit up the range again today to work on my groups. I remembered to take a rear bag this time and my groups made a decent improvement. Again, I'm not the best shot in the world and it's been a while since I've down any precision type shooting, so I'll take it.

Nxju0Cd.jpg



Best group of the day.
HB5z4cq.jpg
 
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That's great for a rifle you've just put together and what you've described your skill level as! Is that with the factory 108gr ELD-M ammunition?
 
I prefer shimming for a nice mechanical interference fit (using heating/cooling). I see a 123 block and Z bellows in the background, so I'm assuming you have a shop. I normally use some 0.001" or 0.002" SS shim stock I keep in my shop, depending on how loose the fit is, then freeze the barrel prior to installation. 0.001" is what I use 99% of the time, 0.002" I've only had to use once on a friend's upper.

When you do the shims, you'll end up with a gap where the ends don't overlap - make sure that's off to the side. I don't like the 'space' to be in the vertical. It probably matters very little, but I'm OCD about that kind of stuff. Just pull the barrel out of the freezer, slap on your pre-cut shim stock, heat the upper up with a heat gun, then slap that barrel on in. If you can't get a fit, cut a little more off the end, don't just try to force it, it'll bunch up.

I'm sure the purple loc-tite or whatever people use works fine, but I prefer the interference fit and the ability to easily remove the barrel in the future if desired. To each their own, it is more work.
 
I prefer shimming for a nice mechanical interference fit (using heating/cooling). I see a 123 block and Z bellows in the background, so I'm assuming you have a shop. I normally use some 0.001" or 0.002" SS shim stock I keep in my shop, depending on how loose the fit is, then freeze the barrel prior to installation. 0.001" is what I use 99% of the time, 0.002" I've only had to use once on a friend's upper.

When you do the shims, you'll end up with a gap where the ends don't overlap - make sure that's off to the side. I don't like the 'space' to be in the vertical. It probably matters very little, but I'm OCD about that kind of stuff. Just pull the barrel out of the freezer, slap on your pre-cut shim stock, heat the upper up with a heat gun, then slap that barrel on in. If you can't get a fit, cut a little more off the end, don't just try to force it, it'll bunch up.

I'm sure the purple loc-tite or whatever people use works fine, but I prefer the interference fit and the ability to easily remove the barrel in the future if desired. To each their own, it is more work.

I own a machine shop that 99% of the time works on more fighting style ARs.
What you described is exactly my plan. I did shim the factory Mod 2 barrel that was pulled out of the gun when I switched to 6mm ARC.

Since you did mention it with the interference fit, I do have a set of shop tools to press out AR barrels that are thermal fit should the need arise.
 
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Decided to give shimming and gluing the barrel extension a whirl to try to squeeze a bit more accuracy out of this setup.

The barrel extension measured 0.998” and the inside of the receiver 1.001” so I went with a 0.0015” shim to make up the difference.

 
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What is the service life of a Grendel bolt?

I would reach out to @LRRPF52 on here. He wrote the book on the 6.5 Grendel and knows his stuff. He could share bolt life. I have never had a failure on my 2 Grendel's and it has been 5 years plus running some hot loads
 
Decided to give shimming and gluing the barrel extension a whirl to try to squeeze a bit more accuracy out of this setup.

The barrel extension measured 0.998” and the inside of the receiver 1.001” so I went with a 0.0015” shim to make up the difference.



Nice video, but next time you do this, it would be helpful to show people the actual fitting process if you can find a way to video that part. It took me 3 or 4 attempts to figure it out when I first did this some years ago, and I still have issues with it bunching up from time to time when doing the fitting - and I've probably done 30 barrels by now. I'd make a video if I could, but I don't have the equipment. How did you retain the shim stock against the extension while inserting the barrel, to prevent it from catching on the receiver? I've tried rubber bands and all kinds of things, but haven't found the 'best' way yet.

Did you align the gap in shim stock on the side of the barrel extension?
 
FAL lets you tune a lot, you've got the Gr/A setting for all those times you're launching grenades, but then another 14 settings on the regulator sleeve, and it's venting pre-piston, like an AGB does (though the piston is the BCG in this case). I have a bunch of FALs and this is one of the best things about them.

Fair enough regarding the Bootleg setup. Your usage mimics mine, I just need a suppressed setting that prevents early unlocking/excessive BCG velocity + ability to crank it open (well, closed on the vents) if fouling becomes a problem. I'd like a little more adjustment range, perhaps 6 or 8 settings but 4 should be sufficient assuming the suppressed setting is bypassing enough gas to 'solve' the overgassing on efficient suppressors. I appreciate the insight from experience!
I agree. Adjustable gas is one of the nicest features on the FAL and L1A1. It’s something that soldiers have been using since the 1950s on a battle rifle, despite the frequent claim that adjustable gas shouldn’t be on standard infantry weapons.

There’s a lot going on with the design of the L1A1 gas system, including the angled gas port vs the FAL’s 90˚ port. It also comes across to me like a controlled bleed system, where each gas setting is really regulating how much gas and particulate matter is being vented out of the rifle.

With smaller cases, I don’t think we need as much resolution with gas settings as we do with the 41-44gr common charge weights and higher pressure of the 7.62x51. A 28-34gr charge weight case shouldn’t need that many settings. I do think that the Bootleg’s 4 settings are probably driven more by the small shaft diameter that fits in the gas path inside the AR-15 carrier. There are other carrier key adjustment systems that have a set screw, or set screw and jam screw on the back of the key, but that requires removing the carrier and messing with screws stacked on each other, prone to the same carbon-locking found on adjustable gas blocks.

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Nice video, but next time you do this, it would be helpful to show people the actual fitting process if you can find a way to video that part. It took me 3 or 4 attempts to figure it out when I first did this some years ago, and I still have issues with it bunching up from time to time when doing the fitting - and I've probably done 30 barrels by now. I'd make a video if I could, but I don't have the equipment. How did you retain the shim stock against the extension while inserting the barrel, to prevent it from catching on the receiver? I've tried rubber bands and all kinds of things, but haven't found the 'best' way yet.

Did you align the gap in shim stock on the side of the barrel extension?

There are plenty of videos on the topic, like this one:



I can do another if it would be helpful. The biggest thing is heating the receiver and cooling the barrel to increase the size difference which allows it all to slide together more easily. I did put the gap in the shim stock at the top. I found that to be the easiest to hold and manage while inserting the barrel into the receiver.
 
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