Hmmm, interesting. Wonder if using a bushing that’s 1/2 the diameter difference would work too.
I hope so.
I have a non bushing full length forester die I’m currently using. I even tried removing the expander button, still crushes cases. I’m at a loss.
have it set up to bump shoulders. I could try backing it off a bit. I will run imperial wax as well. Both worth trying.
Left is the only piece I got to not crush. Two on right are the same setup. No shoulder bump. Tried with and without expander. Once fired brass from my 6.5x47 forms very nice without crushing. I’m not happy about this.
I don’t know. A few friends swear the Redding fl die is better for necking NEW brass. I don’t know though.
Yes, nothing is wrong with the die visually. Clean and lubed. If there were something wrong with the die, I would suspect it would crush once fired brass too.
So sizing only half the neck is al you need? Seems like that would cause chambering issues.
If you could look at the bushing, that would be awesome!
So I can get about 1/2 the neck formed before the shoulder collapses. I doubt it will chamber. With once fired or several fired brass, no issues. Guessing the shoulder is just super soft on my brass. Pretty lame.
It isn’t working like that. It forms to 1/2. Any farther and it crushes even another 10%. So I tried as follows. Step one. Neck to 1/2. Step two, neck to 60%, step three. Become pissed I wasted yet another piece of brass trying to form with this die.
No I did not. Lapua brass comes annealed. With a problem like this, that would only make it worse.
At this point it’s my only option. Fortunately, I have a 6.5 barrel to do that in.
Yeah I have contacted them before. They were very helpful. I doubt this is something they would cover, given its wildcatting. I could try but I don’t feel like it’s on them.
Not sure what to tell ya. That’s what’s happening. I know a few others who have had the same issues with forester dies.
All of your help is very much appreciated. But this is (or should be) a simple operation. I have tried everything people have suggested with the exception of using a body die. I don’t understand how a body die would help this, given I’m trying to size the neck. But I digress. I guess I could try a Redding fl die or going down in two steps with a bushing die, those two options I haven’t tried, given I only have the forester dies. My logic tells me that if a once fired case forms perfectly, but a new one doesn’t, there must be something wrong with the new brass. The new bras even apears rounded compaired to end formed brass, that’s normal, but it feels soft too.
Not sure what your referring to on the micrometer top. All my sizing dies wether they be bushing or non, don’t have any micrometer top. Only micrometer tops I have seen on dies are seating dies. How much support the case has is constrained by the geometry of the die, I cannot change that by moving the die up and down. That would simply change when the case engages the die with respect to stroke. The die don’t colapsing the brass from touching the shoulder, it’s doing so from applying force at the neck, and the shoulder cannot take the force of compressing the neck.
That makes sense now about the body die, I think necking down in two steps with a bushing will be my last ditch effort. At this point just firing in my 6.5 isn’t a huge deal, since it is still a match grade barrel.
You must be referring to the Redding comp neck sizing dies. I don’t own any of those dies so I have no way to try them. I am going to try the two step method with a full length bushing die. Given I full length size anyhow this wouldn’t be a total loss on the firs themselves. I have no use for a seperate body and neck die other than this expirement.
