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.936" Adjustable Gas Block?

sawgunner2001

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 25, 2006
533
37
Minneapolis, MN
I rebarrelled my DPMS LR-308 with a Fulton Armory 18.5" medium profile 308 barrel with rifle length gas. Currently, the rifle has a non-adjustable, lo-profile gas block, a DD 762 Lite Rail, and standard weight BCG, buffer, and spring and it's way over gassed. Considering I'll have a suppressor for it in a few months, I assume its gonna get even worse. It seems the best option is a JPGS-8, but am open to other suggestions.

Thanks
 
Now that SLR Rifleworks has its 0.936" adjustable blocks available, I generally wouldn't piss on one of the JP Blocks if it was on fire!! They aren't all that great for the purposes you are wanting it for (i.e. - tuning the rifle for non-suppressed, then adjusting it down as necessary for optimum functioning suppressed. They are more of a find the sweet spot and set it kind of block because of how they adjust and the lack of the ability to "fix" the position at various intervals.).

See here for more info (they offer both set-screw and clamp versions of the 0.936" adjustable block...choose accordingly):

DA9-C Clamp On Adjustable Gas Block

DA9 Adjustable Gas Block

Good luck!
 
One question, though. Is this the gas tube I'd need Precision Reflex - Product Detail - 308 Rifle length straight gas tube - $12.50 ?

That's about the only straight rifle length tube I could find in 5 minutes of Googling.

NEGATIVE! That length is for ARMALITE pattern AR-10 rifles which use a slightly longer gas port/tube than the DPMS LR-308 which uses a standard AR-15 rifle-length gas tube. See here for the correct option:

Precision Reflex - Product Detail - AR15 - M16 straight rifle length gas tube - $12.50 tube

Good luck!
 
Wilson Combat makes a nice .936 adj block, just make sure you buy it with the correct length tube, they use their own.

While the Wilson blocks aren't bad, they are still a PITA when it comes from needing to make quick/easy adjustments to go from cycling ideally when shooting non-suppressed to shooting suppressed. You have to back out the locking screw, then adjust the actual adjustment screw until you get it where you want/need it, then reinsert the locking screw and lock everything back down again. While it doesn't take forever, why would you want to go through all that when there are high quality, click/detent adjustable blocks on the market that are proven designs and don't require all the addt'l BS to get them squared away?

Once you have your setting for non-suppressed shooting with your particular load, all you need to do is dial down the gas (counting the detent clicks needed to go from A to B) and then keep note of it for future reference. With a single allen key, you can go from ready to rock non-suppressed to suppressed in a matter of just a couple seconds, thus bypassing all the other nonsense, including but not limited to the possible loss of the tiny little locking screw present on the Wilson which can (AND WILL) go missing on the range or in a class (I'm admitting nothing since I would NEVER make a mistake like that)!! ;) ;)
 
Thanks again for all the info. I've got the SLR on order with a (straight) gas tube on order from PRI.

+1 to SLR, they've already emailed me a tracking number.

ORD, with the adjustable gas block, will I have any need for heavy buffer/springs?
 
Thanks again for all the info. I've got the SLR on order with a (straight) gas tube on order from PRI.

+1 to SLR, they've already emailed me a tracking number.

ORD, with the adjustable gas block, will I have any need for heavy buffer/springs?

Your call on the heavy buffer setup. While not technically necessary with the adjustable gas system, you can still reap addt'l benefits from the heavier buffer and/or spring. Since you already have perfectly functional buffer/spring combo now, there is no reason to go off spending more on addt'l parts/accessories now that you'll have the ability to deal with the overgassing problem at its root. ;)
 
While the Wilson blocks aren't bad, they are still a PITA when it comes from needing to make quick/easy adjustments to go from cycling ideally when shooting non-suppressed to shooting suppressed. You have to back out the locking screw, then adjust the actual adjustment screw until you get it where you want/need it, then reinsert the locking screw and lock everything back down again. While it doesn't take forever, why would you want to go through all that when there are high quality, click/detent adjustable blocks on the market that are proven designs and don't require all the addt'l BS to get them squared away?

Once you have your setting for non-suppressed shooting with your particular load, all you need to do is dial down the gas (counting the detent clicks needed to go from A to B) and then keep note of it for future reference. With a single allen key, you can go from ready to rock non-suppressed to suppressed in a matter of just a couple seconds, thus bypassing all the other nonsense, including but not limited to the possible loss of the tiny little locking screw present on the Wilson which can (AND WILL) go missing on the range or in a class (I'm admitting nothing since I would NEVER make a mistake like that)!! ;) ;)

Missed that part of the convo, I'm in CA so all I'm interested in is rock solid reliability. Damn you fun states!