A few questions about smithing and cost

[UIUCPPQ]

I've got a R700 SPS that shoots well for what it is, and I'm starting to wonder about options like a brake and truing the action and maybe a more effective bolt knob.

Can anyone suggest a path for me to take? I don't know of any smiths in my area who could thread my barrel/true action/add bolt knob and I'm wondering what the cost of these things might be.

Also perhaps, cerakote?

All these things are on my wishlist to eventually get around to so any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[STR]

Unfortunately good smiths are not around every corner like barber shops. With the key word being "good" smith. A lot of people are afraid to ship their guns, but if you want quality work, you may have to ship it. Considering where you're at, I would recommend Mark Gordon at Short Action Customs. He is very highly respected, and is a vendor on this site also.

 

[UIUCPPQ]

I fully expect I will have to ship.

It's really the costs I'm hoping to learn about.

 

[E. Bryant]

Here is one example of pricing:

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...2013-remington-m700-accurizing-group-buy.html

Here is another:

Services - GA Precision

You can hit the websites of several other 'smiths to get some ballpark pricing, but a short and purposeful phone call or email may be your best bet.

 

[UIUCPPQ]

Here is one example of pricing:

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...2013-remington-m700-accurizing-group-buy.html

Here is another:

Services - GA Precision

You can hit the websites of several other 'smiths to get some ballpark pricing, but a short and purposeful phone call or email may be your best bet.

That LRI deal looks killer. Do you know if they'd let me send my rifle in and get a new bolt knob, muzzle brake threading and installation and ceracoat even if I'm not doing the accurizing and such? Also it seems that they're selling a bolt knob so would I just have to send in a brake and my rifle? If you don't know I may give them a call, I just don't want to bother them while they're trying to get these done if I don't need to.

 

[39-Ret]

The only to truly know is to give a call. They will be more than happy to answer your questions. If you want the correct answer, get it from the horses mouth, not third hand.

Mark at short action customs had my bolt knob finished and back to me in 3 days...Does very good work

 

[Sonic Crack]

If your going to true the action you might as well spend another 300 and get a new barrel. The factory barrel would need chopped and re chambered anyways so might as well just chamber up a new barrel. Your smith may find the factory barrel isnt up to snuff anyways

 

[JB02]

Try Karl Feldkamp at Kampfeld Custom. He does bolt knobs for $90 installed and cerakoted. He'll do a muzzle brake from $160 installed. Turnaround time about 6 months ago was about 2 weeks.

 

[218bee]

+1 on GA Precision....also had great results with Mike Lau at Texas Brigade Armory....Looooong wait but worth it...

 

[George Az]

If your going to true the action you might as well spend another 300 and get a new barrel. The factory barrel would need chopped and re chambered anyways so might as well just chamber up a new barrel. Your smith may find the factory barrel isnt up to snuff anyways

There is some truth to this statement. It is like putting a brand new engine with the old transmission and rear end. To true the action, the barrel has to be pulled anyway. Save your money, find a barrel you want, the round you want and decide from there.

 

[Flatbush Harry]

I've got a R700 SPS that shoots well for what it is, and I'm starting to wonder about options like a brake and truing the action and maybe a more effective bolt knob.

Can anyone suggest a path for me to take? I don't know of any smiths in my area who could thread my barrel/true action/add bolt knob and I'm wondering what the cost of these things might be.

Also perhaps, cerakote?

All these things are on my wishlist to eventually get around to so any guidance would be appreciated.

I just got a Rem 700 5R and dropped it into an AICS AX chassis with no other work done. It shoots like a house afire, bone stock. My SPS-Varmint and SPS SS hunting rifle are both sub 0.75 MOA shooters, with the only changes being placed in Bell & Carlson Medalist stocks. Accordingly, I'd change stock first (if necessary), adjust the trigger (if adjustable) and shoot a lot. You may want to hold off on truing the action until you rebarrel as the barrel has to come off for truing; why not replace it with a premium barrel (although I've had pretty good luck with factory barrels in all my rifles). I'm sure a different bolt knob would help for speed and surety of action, though I haven't felt the lack. I personally don't like brakes, though a suppressor may reduce noise as well as recoil.

Good work is expensive...so good luck but try stretching your rifle a bit before you start to rebuild...that way, you'll learn what changes will give you the biggest bang for the buck.

Harry

 

[UIUCPPQ]

Yeah, I'm with you all on the rebarreling, My issue is that I had wanted to purchase a new scope but I'm certain I can't do both of these upgrades so I'm having to decide and trying to compromise.

 

[UIUCPPQ]

I just got a Rem 700 5R and dropped it into an AICS AX chassis with no other work done. It shoots like a house afire, bone stock. My SPS-Varmint and SPS SS hunting rifle are both sub 0.75 MOA shooters, with the only changes being placed in Bell & Carlson Medalist stocks. Accordingly, I'd change stock first (if necessary), adjust the trigger (if adjustable) and shoot a lot. You may want to hold off on truing the action until you rebarrel as the barrel has to come off for truing; why not replace it with a premium barrel (although I've had pretty good luck with factory barrels in all my rifles). I'm sure a different bolt knob would help for speed and surety of action, though I haven't felt the lack. I personally don't like brakes, though a suppressor may reduce noise as well as recoil.

Good work is expensive...so good luck but try stretching your rifle a bit before you start to rebuild...that way, you'll learn what changes will give you the biggest bang for the buck.

Harry

Yeah mine is in an AICS and my best group so far is .4 inches at 100 yards. It's a pretty good shooter, but I'm certain truing would make it more consistently precise. And I do like having a brake on my rifle, so that is something I plan to pursue, maybe not necessary immediately though.

 

[Flatbush Harry]

IMHO, good glass comes right after a good stock. The X-Mark Pro trigger is a bit heavy but usually crisp and can be improved with standard adjustment. I guess I feel (for me) the brake and the bolt knob are secondary...stability of the barreled action, good sights and good trigger are the biggest contributors to my shooting. Good ammo is essential too. Other elements certainly add to achieving success but they make a smaller incremental contribution. I think Zak Smith has written some wonderful advice on what you need...and he knows of what he speaks.

Good luck,

Harry

 

[UIUCPPQ]

I have a Timney 510 straight trigger on my setup and a Vortex Viper PST 4-16, I'd like to step up to a Bushnell ERS. And plenty of excellent ammo.

Also I'm most of the way through Accuracy and Precision in Long Range Shooting. I don't remember the name of the writer now that I'm trying to, but it's full of good info.

 

[xXlojackXx]

While all the smiths mentioned above are more than qualified to do your build, I rep Benchmark Barrels exclusively when I build rifles. The guys are awesome, the tooling and quality is superb, ad their rifles shot lights out. I have seen targets from their rifles with .115" groups at 100 yards. Not to mention they hold numerous world records with their work and are very reasonably priced. Do yourself a favor and call them and talk to Chris or Ron.