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Accuracy from Envy and Tl3

plinkin

Mall Ninja
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 28, 2014
995
115
florida
I'm waiting on a minute man with m24 308 24in from PVA, I have pretty much settled on the xlr envy but am really after as much accuracy as I can squeeze out of the setup I'm still mainly shooting from the bench with some prone steel shooting. So with that being said is the envy setup going to be as accurate as a bedded stock or will I not be able to shoot the difference?
 
I'm waiting on a minute man with m24 308 24in from PVA, I have pretty much settled on the xlr envy but am really after as much accuracy as I can squeeze out of the setup I'm still mainly shooting from the bench with some prone steel shooting. So with that being said is the envy setup going to be as accurate as a bedded stock or will I not be able to shoot the difference?

You are GTG as long as everything is torqued down correctly.
 
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Bed the Envy. I had to bed every Evo chassis I had. It's the Vblock design of the inlet. If you're dubious by all means test it first.

Here's how you do it. Set the rifle on the butt, barrel pointing straight up, on a work bench so the action is generally at face level. Ensure the action screws are torqued down. Loosen the front action screw slowly until you get to that point in which the screw releases tension on the action. It will be a half turn'ish point in which you can begin to tighten the threads or loosen them so they apply no threads/ screw cap tension. When you get to that point, if the action pulls out away from the inlet because the rear action screw is applying flex via the tang then you have flex in your action and it needs bedded. Turn your Allen wrench back and forth engaging threads <-> disengaging threads, watching the front of the action from the side. If it is releasing and pulling the action back and forth in and out of the inlet, it's flexed.

I learned this with an Evo that had a "cold bore" shift every time. It shot great groups but had that annoying first round shift. Bedding it fixed it. And it was torquing the action. I had two more Evos with different actions. They all did it. Betting an Envy uses the same inlet design.

How did you bed the chassis could you post pics?
 
My gunsmith skimbedded it. Pretty standard affair. I did bed one of them under a Rem 700 using JB Weld. Recoil lug pocket, along the inlet, and under the tang.

Did you test it for flex?
I haven't received the minuteman yet, and haven't ordered the envy. Just wanting to have all my ducks in a row beforehand.
 
What mags work best with this combined? I've had a accurate mag which scratched the shit out of my lapua cases. I would like the pmags to work they feel very smooth. Thanks for the replies so far.
 
I ran pmags for a little bit before upgrading to the MDT 12rd. I would keep the accurate mag play with the feed lips by opening them up. The MPA feed lip tool is great but not required. Load some dummy rounds and start bending until it runs smooth. It will make a huge difference!
 
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There is absolutely no need to bed the Envy. It is not a v-block chassis but a multi-point radial cut inlet. It has a fully supported tang unlike early Evo's (new Evo's are also supported). I have actually seen many chassis ruined from bedding because it lifts the receiver up too much and causes mag issues. I can not tell you how many high-end gunsmiths ask me about this saying that they bed every chassis. I ask them to please try it first and they never bed another one. I also have so many gunsmiths that use our chassis as a test block for barreled actions because they do not need to bed it. I promise you will be fine. :)
 
I just order the envy and a rear bag rider, man I wanted the tungsten color but at $175 it's a pretty steep addition I wish they weren't that expensive to change the color on. Fingers crossed it gets here in a hurry WHOOOOO!