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Accurate beam scales

JRBullock1987

Private
Minuteman
Sep 8, 2023
30
6
Washington
I have the chargemaster link and want an accurate beam scale to verify my charges. What's a consistent and accurate beam scale? I have an rcbs m1000 I think its called and it's straight trash. I zero it out then use a check weight and it's way off. I want a solid beam scale that I can use for a while to verify my chargemaster loads while I save up for the fx120i down the road.
Any suggestions?
 
A vintage Ohaus 10-10 or 505 is going to be an accurate beam scale and can be had on ebay for 50-100 or so.

I think it might be worth checking your current scale to make sure it isn't damaged as it's pretty hard to mess up a balance beam scale. You might even be able to send it back to RCBS.
 
I have the chargemaster link and want an accurate beam scale to verify my charges. What's a consistent and accurate beam scale? I have an rcbs m1000 I think its called and it's straight trash. I zero it out then use a check weight and it's way off. I want a solid beam scale that I can use for a while to verify my chargemaster loads while I save up for the fx120i down the road.
Any suggestions?
Why not use check weights like this???:

 
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I have an rcbs m1000


If leveling and check weights aren't the problem, might look at "balancing your beam scale" videos.

I have the RCBS M500 and use it to check against a Lyman digital scale which gives me false positives. The cheapest RCBS beam scale has worked for me in this regards. The digital scale is convenient, and I work around the problems, but I trust the beam scale.
 
Franko is spot on. There incredibly accurate scales. I use mine to double check my chargemaster from time to time.

 
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I used a 1970s-vintage RCBS (Ohaus) beam scale for decades. I got the Lyman check weight set referenced above when I started precision rifle circa 2017. The check weights tightened up consistency of measurements I got from the scale. While slow, the beam scale was enough.

My point in all the following verbiage is simply that we can go pretty deep in the weeds as regards scales and their accuracy. And it's not really necessary. I like the confidence a lab-grade scale gives me, but it isn't strictly necessary for quality handloads.

Don't waste your time reading further if scale-related tedious minutiae are not of interest.
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I got an A&D FX-120i lab scale maybe four years ago. I googled around and learned about calibration weight classes, and purchased a 100-gram weight certified to be accurate within something like a tenth of a milligram (0.000004 ounces).

What I learned (some is just common sense):
  1. One does not need absolutely correct weight measurement for reloading since loads are tailored to individual preference/need. But a high degree of consistency is a keystone in producing quality handloads.
  2. The Lyman check weight set helped make my beam-scale measurements more consistent. But the check weights themselves were off by a few tenths of a grain from their stated collective weight when measured on the calibrated FX-120i. So what. It's a data point with negligible if any impact on handload quality, as long as loads are within the high/low bounds set by reputable loading guides.
  3. The FX-120i has a VERY sensitive bubble level built into it. One can observe the measurement of a static weight (brass powder pan, for example) shift by several hundredths of a grain if that bubble moves off-center . You cannot get that "absolute level" without some kind of aid (like that bubble). So even with check weights and a highly precise scale, there will be a tiny amount of shift in observed weight compared to actual weight if the scale isn't precisely leveled.
  4. Calibrating is not the same as zeroing. Calibrating is leveling the scale, placing the calibration weight on the scale, and, if the displayed weight is more than two milligrams off from 100 grams, running the calibration procedure. I haven't had to calibrate the scale in over a year because the displayed weight is always +/- .001 grams (limit of scale accuracy) of the calibration weight when I check it.
  5. But I have to make tiny leveling adjustments at every loading session. Even the weight of me taking a seat at my bench will shift the floor enough to move that bubble a tiny amount. Then I put my powder pan on the scale and zero it.
Bottom line: A quality scale won't drift, can give precise, absolute measurements, and fosters confidence, but a beam scale and an inexpensive check weight set can be "good enough" for quality handloads.
 
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even FX-120i is NOT accurate scale and drifts. but because you dont know and dont have better scale, you dont know this.

but it is good for reloading. nobody need better.

but it is better than beam scales, because beam scales are very finky and you must be very careful, which retarded american reloaders arent.
 
even FX-120i is NOT accurate scale and drifts. but because you dont know and dont have better scale, you dont know this.

but it is good for reloading. nobody need better.

but it is better than beam scales, because beam scales are very finky and you must be very careful, which retarded american reloaders arent.
Wow you sound like a cool dude.
 
even FX-120i is NOT accurate scale and drifts. but because you dont know and dont have better scale, you dont know this.

but it is good for reloading. nobody need better.

but it is better than beam scales, because beam scales are very finky and you must be very careful, which retarded american reloaders arent.
And you know this how?

Edit: Never mind. Readers, take a look at this guy's post history. Lots of shit talking. Klassic keyboard kommando; long on mouth, short on pretty much everything else. Ignore engage.
 
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