- Thread starter kornface13
- Start date
A dremel, end mill, round file
It’s a mini chassis? That shouldn’t happen in a mini chassis.
It’s a mini chassis? That shouldn’t happen in a mini chassis.
It is a mini chassis. I just added a picture to the first post. The seller said it hadn't been bed, but the black stuff seems like bedding compound.
Yeah that’s marine tex. It’s been roughed up and then skim bedded.
That sucks man. I’d be pissed if that wasn’t advertised.
Mini chassis is basically toast now so only way to get it to work with your TL3 is to hog out the material and then rebed it.
That sucks man. I’d be pissed if that wasn’t advertised.
Mini chassis is basically toast now so only way to get it to work with your TL3 is to hog out the material and then rebed it.
Also, what?
When is it ever a good idea to grind on your receiver before you open a stock inlet? Maybe some of the worst advice I’ve ever heard lol
is this a fucking joke
OP. dremel/file/sand out the bedding compound. go slow. be patient. and you'll be fine. nothing too difficult
Well that sucks. So even if I try to remove the bulk of the bedding compound from the recoil lug area and leave the rest, the mini chassis is essentially toast and I have to bed it from now on?
I sent you a pm.
I would just worry about how much sanding or roughing of material they did before the bed job. Could definitely change the way the chassis interfaces with the receiver.
I’m picky about that stuff and wouldn’t mess with finding out. I’d just bed to the TL3 and you’re good to go
The mini-chassis is an aluminum chunk embedded in the stock, right? I’d be a little wary of scoring the aluminum (or worse) if I only used a dremel.
Future people, here’s a link about usingheat (don’t use heat on a carbon stock), acetone, etc
www.snipershide.com
Go look for info by @Terry Cross later in this thread.
Future people, here’s a link about using
Gunsmithing - Removing stubborn Marine Tex from action?
I just pulled my action out of my first bedding job. There was a little bit of Marine Tex stuck to the action, most of which I was able to get rid of with a plastic razor blade, or my fingernail. However, there are a few areas where the Marine Tex is actually too thin to pry off, and i don't...
www.snipershide.com Go look for info by @Terry Cross later in this thread.
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Never, I repeat never touch the hard/expensive to fix part of the equation. fix the broken/out of spec stock, not the in spec Action.
How much harder is it to mill out the chassis than break out a file and take a bit off the lug IF that's the exact setup OP wants?
How much is he going to have to take off? a mm or two?
If the lug is replaceable you can always change out the recoil lug. If not, well it's a bit more extreme
M
Set the action in there , wack it a few times with a mallet and use the lug as a broach..
It’s a TL3..integral lug. And even if it wasn’t an integral lug, I’m going to echo what was said above…why in the world with you hack on the in-spec action rather than open the out of spec stock?
Even if the lug was replaceable why would you dick with the lug when the stock can be easily opened up and rebedded without messing up your action.
I just don’t understand your logic here and think you’ve given terrible advice to someone. Touching your action should be last resort, especially when this is a relatively easy fix of the stock and bedding.
The TL3 has an integrated recoil lug.
Again, what? Is this also a joke?
Marine tex is solid. Please OP or anyone reading do not “wack” your receiver with a mallet to try and get it set in the bedding. I’ll repeat…this is an easy fix to hog out bedding material with a dremel or end mill and simply rebed to your action.
I don’t know what’s going on this morning but some wild advice being given.
This right here is why I rarely buy anything second hand. If I bought a mini chassis that was stated to not have been bedded and they did indeed remove material and bed it, I'd be getting my money back. There is no reason to have fucked with that, even less reason to be deceptive about it.
@DR0331 Care to clear this up? Looks like it's your chassis he bought.
Idiots telling people to smash a barreled action in with a hammer and removing material from the action to fit aren't a non issue either.
I'm chatting with the seller about it. We're coming to an agreement. I just came here to get some opinions becuase this is my first Manners stock and also the first time I've come across this issue so I wasn't quite sure what the best course of action would be.
Lighten up . The correct methods were already suggested , which is to remove the marintex.
The monster press is around 6:10. Fuckall that one is a beast. Everyone around these presses must be deaf.
Best course of action is to get your money back in full and buy something else. Even if he pays to have it corrected you still have something that will have a tougher resale down the road since its been fucked with and bedded. Nevermind the fact that there could be function issues due to removing material from it.
Those stocks pop up frequently, you can get brand new unmolested ones for what you paid or less that someone has changed their mind on.
You came in a thread of someone looking for advice and told them to beat it with a hammer. That's fucking retarded and if that's your advice you should keep it to yourself so other people don't fuck their stuff up.
Get your money back (including return shipping) from the seller because they sold you a modified/bedded chassis when they said it wasn't.
Or get it for a significant discount and attempt to fix it.
I'd hit it with a heat gun first to try and loosen up the epoxy. If it were an all aluminum chassis, then it would be fairly easy because you wouldn't have to be as careful. With that being a carbon fiber stock, I'd be leery though. Because the same epoxies used for the bedding is keeping the CF together and the mini chassis in place in the stock
I've removed plenty of epoxy from all aluminum chassis's (and golf clubs) with a heat gun. Best results were going slow. Keep the heat gun moving. Take short pauses to let the heat soak in to break the bond.
But then you'll have to rebed because depending on how much aluminum was removed to bed it in the first place, your action may not sit evenly
Or get it for a significant discount and attempt to fix it.
I'd hit it with a heat gun first to try and loosen up the epoxy. If it were an all aluminum chassis, then it would be fairly easy because you wouldn't have to be as careful. With that being a carbon fiber stock, I'd be leery though. Because the same epoxies used for the bedding is keeping the CF together and the mini chassis in place in the stock
I've removed plenty of epoxy from all aluminum chassis's (and golf clubs) with a heat gun. Best results were going slow. Keep the heat gun moving. Take short pauses to let the heat soak in to break the bond.
But then you'll have to rebed because depending on how much aluminum was removed to bed it in the first place, your action may not sit evenly
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well there ya go. My suggestion probably isn't the best course of action, but it WILL make the action fit that chassis IF that's the exact setup the OP wants.
How much contact does a recoil lug really need? Is a few mm side to side really going to affect anything? Somehow I doubt it, but I'm no gunsmith.
M
Only reasonable thing you have posted all day
You clearly shouldn’t be giving people advice.
filing something to fit is eminently reasonable IF that's your option to make what you have fit what you want.
So, how much difference does a mm or so per side really matter in a recoil lug? Anyone? Bueller?
M
just because you can...doesn't mean you should
like you existing on this forum...most people here would take the 2nd option
Could you physically make it fit doing that? Yes, but it would be incredibly stupid.
First of all because you're just going to town on a precision machined action with a dremel or files or whatever you would pull out of your harry homeowner tool bin to whittle away with.
Secondly because it's easier to remove epoxy bedding from a stock and then rebed that to fit than it is to make the action fit the bedded stock even if you have a 3D scanner, CNC equipment, and know how to write CAD.
Your suggestion is just beyond retarded. I really hope that you don't guide children or any other dependent through life with ideology like this and the inability to understand why it's wrong.
I dunno guys, crisis was averted, at least one apology made…(KC still holding out lol)
That’s what’s great about an active forum filled with know-how. Noobs don’t oxy-acetylene torch cut out bedding material (or their tang).
That’s what’s great about an active forum filled with know-how. Noobs don’t oxy-acetylene torch cut out bedding material (or their tang).
Y'all are getting your panties in a twist over this?
No one's explained how filing off a few mm of recoil lug is going to affect anything yet. So, how's it going to affect anything?
M
Just when you put the action in a different stock/chassis, the fit might cause issues, like maybe the trigger or barrel hits something if the action can slide over too far.
I’m sure someone like @Terry Cross would know.
The OP said it wasn't going to fit, not why it wasn't going to fit when I answered. Filing will make it fit. Note that I said IF that's the option. Y'all keep forgetting that and not answering my question of 'will it matter?'
I doubt seriously that it'll matter, but hey, y'all keep getting your panties in twists over it. I'll just keep laughing at you because it's likely y'all don't know, but are commenting anyways
M
OP didn't say he was going to do that. He asked how to make it fit.
Filing will make it fit. What happens next? Up to the OP.
There's always ways to add metal. ...but y'all would probably not like that answer either.
It isn't like we're talking some unobtanium piece of metal here
M
This is what you said:
And it's absolutely terrible stupid advise. You are suggesting altering a precision surface machined to the ten thousandth of an inch with a fucking file. If you can't understand which tight tolerances and proper fit effect accuracy then there is no helping you. Nobody should need to draw you a fucking picture that you're still not going to understand.
In your defense, I first might’ve tried a rubber mallet light smack. I read your advice as with a steel engineers mini-hand sledge lol.
Actually, I would’ve immediately called the seller for a refund.
You don’t perchance work for Alaska Airlines, do you?
Just giving you shit brother.
I was thinking more of that Galagher comedian with his wooden mallet, but either will work.
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It would be funny to walk into ye olde gunsmith’s shoppe (one you’ve never used) and the first thing you see behind the counter, in the work area, is a giant wooden mallet.
And the gunsmith looks like Carrot Top.
looks Like I had some wrong info listen to Terry maybe if you send him the stick he can work his magic
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