AI AE MKII - tenon lube/anti seize?

[SPRword]

As a follow up to my previous post on finding a barrel for my AE, a member here gave me a very fair deal on one that I went ahead and installed the other day.

I followed the installation video from 8541 tactical (excellent video btw) and found the process much less difficult than I would have expected. One thing I noticed in his video is that he doesn’t appear to use any lubrication on the barrel tenon. My action had a fair bit of what looked like copper anti-seize in the action threads and my new barrel was bone dry. I went ahead and wiped some CLP on the barrel threads, wiped the excess anti-seize off the action face, and torqued the two together.

Since then I’ve been reading threads here and elsewhere, and it seems most everyone recommends using new anti-seize on both the action and threads. What’s everyone’s thoughts on this with regards to the AE? My AT has no anti-seize but that could be due to the clamping mechanism it uses to hold the barrel in place. Is the CLP/old anti-seize combo that I have on there sufficient or should I break it apart, clean out the old stuff and redo it with a fresh coat? I have a ton of Aeroshell 64 that I’ve used on my AR-15’s in the past, would that suffice? Thanks y’all, still learning when it comes to these guns. I appreciate the help!

 

[kthomas]

I don't have any AI's, but I think a little anti-seize is smart. A little goes a long ways.

 

[M_R_Woodard]

I always put a dab of grease on the barrel threads when I swap barrels. Never had an issue .

 

[SPRword]

Maybe I’ll pull it apart then. Any reason the Aeroshell wouldn’t work or should I go grab some copper anti-seize/grease?

 

[m1match]

I use nickel anti seize, but Aeroshell 64 would probably work just fine. The AE is a conventional barrel torqued onto the receiver and I would use anti seize (or your Aeroshell 64) on the barrel threads

 

[carbonbased]

Obligatory anti-seize meme

 

[chevy_man]

Copper anti-seize here. It's generally higher temp than aluminum. Nickel works great also. I have been using the same bottle I bought for exhaust manifolds for the last 8 years, so it's not expensive.

The science behind anti-seize is that it will dry up just like grease will dry up. However, unlike grease the particles (metals and graphite) in it allow the threads to slide. Grease that's dried up can act more like glue than lube.

If you change barrels often grease is just fine. If they're going to be on there more than a couple years anti-seize is better suited.

And anti-seize is not a lubricant. It's designed to prevent galling and seizing of thread assemblies. If you use it in place of grease it will act more like a lapping compound so don't get it all over the moving parts.

 

[Northjager]

which anti seize is best for an A.I. quick swop barrel, I have Permatex® - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant, is this more suitable than copper?

 

[m1match]

For a rifle barrel, copper and nickel anti seize will work equally well, nickel is a premium anti seize suitable for extremely high temperatures, but for what we're using them for, they both are fine.

 

[chevy_man]

which anti seize is best for an A.I. quick swop barrel, I have Permatex® - Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant, is this more suitable than copper?

Go for it.

When in doubt check the manufacturer specs. Most likely nickel is good to 2500*, so you're good.

 

[Northjager]

Hi guys, thanks for the info and quick response, Permatex it is then, thanks

 

[SPRword]

I ended up using the Aeroshell that I had laying around. It seems to have worked fine.

 

[carbonbased]

I need some anti seize for a user-serviceable titanium suppressor, a Banish 30. I need to put it on the end cap and between the optional extended portion and main body.

Just the aluminum Permatex? Or go straight to nickel? I have the former lying about somewhere. Kinda sounds like it doesn’t matter, but figured I’d ask because it’s not SS on SS but titanium on titanium.

The usually excellent stuff Griffin sells didn’t do its job and holy shit was it a pain to separate the parts. Took two weeks of CLR soak, followed by Boretech C4, followed by brake cleaner sprayed in there to finally weaken the carbon to allow me to open that fucker up with rosin+strap wrench.

I think the Griffin stuff will be regulated to barrel-to-suppressor threads, where its less messy properties matter more. Never got a suppressor stuck on a barrel.

Makes me tired just recounting the steps! Wanted to get the sledge hammer and end that thing’s life right then and there!

Edit: in Griffin’s defense, their stuff is a food-grade anti-seize and is made NOT to turn people into shimmering gray people the second they look away. Or make them sick if ingested.

I had bought two little contains of it and when I ran out I found the stuff at McMaster, part 9438K1. To Griffin’s credit, they don’t hide the fact that they sell repacked tiny containers of the stuff, which is Lok-Cease 20/20. The stuff from McMaster has a slightly different name but it seems the same, and has the same specs.

Suppressor Anti Seize 2300f

Griffin Armament is an industry leading manufacturer of suppressors, firearms, and parts for discriminating end users

www.griffinarmament.com

Here is the stuff from McMaster.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I've always used Henkel nickel anti seize on titanium bolts, and just a smidge on ti suppressor threads. I also use it on the barrel tenon, because I have it.