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Air compressor question.

O

oneshot86

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 13, 2001
9,470
10,632
citrus park ,fl
I need a oil water separator, dryer for my compressor.
To Protect my air tools and keep shit out of the paint.
I started shopping but DAMN if there isn't 2 fuckin many choices all over the price spectrum.
Give some cool advice to this hungover brother w water and oil in his air, lol.
 
Only advice I have is check the regulator before hooking the air line to the paint gun!
 
I put together one that has a oil separator/filter, then a regulator, then a desiccant dryer, after that I split the line and installed an oiler. That way I have clean dry air for painting, and oiled air for my tools. I made the mistake of using 1/2 pipe for the first one. The second one I built I ran 3/4 pipe. It probably didn't make a bit of difference in the end because I never exceeded the capacity of the 1/2 piping.
 
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I've got a regulater w a cheesy water separator that I'm not so proud of and I'm going to be painting soon, so I would like something lifetime quality but I don't want to spend a ka zillion, but of course it has to be the best, lol.
What are you guys running in your shops
 
Yeah, you've been given good advice here, so far. It is doubly-suggested to have a completely separate 'leg' that is lubricated for air-tools and the like.

As to keeping your paint line moisture free, don't forget to drain your tank OFTEN. The humidity in the ambient air will kill all the components, over time. It is a constant battle. As for 'dryers' (to be used in air-brushes and the like) be sure to get enough desiccant that you can change-out on the fly and continue working. Then when you have time, put it in the oven to 're-charge' and whatnot.
 
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first thing to start with is cool dry air going INTO the tank. I used an A/C condenser plumbed between the compressor head and tank. Before it goes into the tank was an inline dryer, not an expensive one but a decent one. This allowed the moisture in the hot air coming out of the compressor head to cool and the water to condense out. Got trapped in the dryer better then. Next is to make sure the tank is clean and rust free. Easier said than done unless the tank is new. Thenwhen you plumb the lines use hard lines and have a drop down with the pressure outlet Teed in. The water has a tendancy to go straight and wind up at the bottom or straight leg of the T Like the T is on its side. Then use an inline particle filter.
 
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For draining the tank there is or was a device that went into your tank petcock that would let a little air out each time the compressor cycled.
 
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What size compressor . CFM , tank and psi . You can hook a timed drain onto the tank petcock . Check Mcmaster Carr . You can get a regulator filter set up with an auto drain for water . When you plumb your lines at what ever height always provide a lower point/leg as condesate will go to the lowest point . Lastly if you use a Dessicant Dryer hook it up at the point where you will connect for your paint gun air hose . Summer sucks ass for compressed air in humid climates . If your dryer is not up to snuff you will find out quickly .
We run very large industrial air dryers as the high speed Mill spindles don't get along well with water .
 
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I run a separator right at my tank. Then I plumbed in about a 3-4 foot "U" drop with a second seperator in the bottom. My general use lines go up then over to my bench. The one for my sprayer is furthest from my compressor with a "T" up and down. That way any water that gets that far drops into the lower leg of the T but very little if any water gets that far.
 
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It depends on how big and how much your compressor runs but I have found you have to cool the air before you try to filter out the water.
I have a refrigerated water separator but it still has to have a inlet temp of less than 200 degrees. If the air is to hot and the water is still in vapor form it will just blow through the filter and end up at the spray gun.

I made a makeshift radiator out of 25-30 feet of copper pipe and mount it up on the wall with standoffs and a drip leg then go into the filter or separator then put a small last chance filter right before the spray gun or my cnc machine.

I was told about these tricks from a old autobody guy and the air compressor shop that I use. The other poster that used a condenser was a good idea as well.
 
This is probably nicer than the one I have. I think mine was around $600 but if you make the radiator and use a good filter you might not need it. But the humidity is real bad in St. Louis in the summer and I had a small compressor that ran all the time at my old shop so that was part of the problem. A auto drain for the bottom of the tank is nice to have too. I wired mine to a light switch so I can turn it off when not in the shop.

 
Blackcreek said:
It depends on how big and how much your compressor runs but I have found you have to cool the air before you try to filter out the water.
I have a refrigerated water separator but it still has to have a inlet temp of less than 200 degrees. If the air is to hot and the water is still in vapor form it will just blow through the filter and end up at the spray gun.

I made a makeshift radiator out of 25-30 feet of copper pipe and mount it up on the wall with standoffs and a drip leg then go into the filter or separator then put a small last chance filter right before the spray gun or my cnc machine.

I was told about these tricks from a old autobody guy and the air compressor shop that I use. The other poster that used a condenser was a good idea as well.
Click to expand...
i was on the you tube earlier and i saw this method, im leaning this way w filters and regulaters at air point
 
Blackcreek said:
This is probably nicer than the one I have. I think mine was around $600 but if you make the radiator and use a good filter you might not need it. But the humidity is real bad in St. Louis in the summer and I had a small compressor that ran all the time at my old shop so that was part of the problem. A auto drain for the bottom of the tank is nice to have too. I wired mine to a light switch so I can turn it off when not in the shop.

Click to expand...
im not painting the space shuttle fer petes sake
 
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Porksboy said:
For draining the tank there is or was a device that went into your tank petcock that would let a little air out each time the compressor cycled.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we always installed auto drain systems down here.
Plumbed it to the outside of the building.
No chance of forgetting to open the drain when it's done for you.
 
Mike Casselton said:
Yeah, we always installed auto drain systems down here.
Plumbed it to the outside of the building.
No chance of forgetting to open the drain when it's done for you.
Click to expand...
No kidding, I saw them advertised today when I was learning today but never knew about them before
 
The last one I installed was when I worked at the ammunition plant.
Saved a ton of time draining that big assed compressor.
 
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My compressor has an auto drain, air cooler (acts like a small radiator) along with a desiccant dryer. I use heavy copper tube to plumb in the lines and at the machinery I have a separator/regulator and occasionally an oiler depending on the machine. Never have a problem with water in the lines using this setup.
 
We used a transmission cooler like this on an Ingersoll Rand single stage compressor. We ran a copper line from the compressor outlet into this cooler. On the outlet side we connected to a filter/ separator combo and then into the tank. I put a couple electric fans on the trans cooler and wired them to run with the compressor. I get a lot of moisture out of the filter/separator and the compressor re-pressurizes much quicker. Almost twice as fast. My dad runs his paint guns off the airline spraying automotive paint on his tractors with no moisture problems. I'll post a pic tomorrow of the setup. The trans cooler I used is rated for 300psi.
 
What size compressor . CFM , tank and psi . You can hook a timed drain onto the tank petcock . Check Mcmaster Carr . You can get a regulator filter set up with an auto drain for water . When you plumb your lines at what ever height always provide a lower point/leg as condesate will go to the lowest point . Lastly if you use a Dessicant Dryer hook it up at the point where you will connect for your paint gun air hose . Summer sucks ass for compressed air in humid climates . If your dryer is not up to snuff you will find out quickly .
We run very large industrial air dryers as the high speed Mill spindles don't get along well with water
 
I built one of these years ago and they are fantastic. They work great , but are even better if you install them between the compressor and tank so that the tank always has clean dry air .
The simple principle is the line going into the cylinder goes through a small hole or orifice , so as it enters the cylinder and slows down the air goes from high pressure to low causing the water vapor to condense and fall to the bottom of the cylinder while the air exits the top.
I basically copied my design off the following link . I did make my tank bigger. I also added a copper coil and 2nd water trap . But you can keep it simple like the first pic and it will work very well.


homemade air drier - Weld Talk Message Boards

Talk about Plasma Cutting equipment, torches, piercing and gouging, air supply, etc.
weldtalk.hobartwelders.com

100_5655 (Large).JPG


My version
20140106_000636_zpscada2472.jpg

20140202_131125_zps751a0970 (1).jpg
 
Last edited:
This is mine with the transmission cooler installed between the tank and compressor.
 

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