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Amateur mistake with new Lapua Brass

Southern Custom

Master Engraver
Full Member
Minuteman
  • So I’ve mentioned here that I’m fairly new to reloading precision rifle rounds. I’m about a year into this now and while I’m settled on some best practices with the 6Creed Peterson brass I was using, I screwed up with a new batch of Lapua and want to get some opinions on just how bad this screwup is. Maybe someone else can learn from this experience.
    I forgot that Lapua small primer brass uses a small flash hole. I noticed a bit of “stiction” when I was running it all through the sizing die for the first time. At the 50 case mark I remembered the old reloading adage, “if something doesn’t feel right, check”. (Yes, I’m scatter brained and it took me to till the 50 case mark for the lightbulb to turn on) So I pulled the bushing thinking maybe it was hanging briefly on the leading edge and that wasn’t the case. I then checked the primer pocket under my microscope (I’m a firearms engraver and have a scope on my bench) and that’s when I noticed a bulge in the edge of the flash hole. That’s was the ah ha moment. I realized my decapping pin wasn’t large enough to break but was small enough to basically swage out the flash holes.
    I then uniformed the pocket side of the flash holes to remove any bur edge. So now I basically have Lapua small primer brass with a large flash hole.
    So... I ran a few rounds and group size was a bit bigger with the new Berger’s I was shooting that day for the first time. this was only with the first seating depth I tried. ES/SDs were consistent with my Peterson or close enough.
    So here’s my question. Is there any issue running small primer brass with the larger flash hole. Or have I ruined any chance for an accurate round. I ask because I read something about higher accuracy potential with small flash holes. If there’s enough difference I’ll simply use this for practice stuff and order a new batch of brass.
     
    It's fine. Don't over think it. Do the other 50 and they'll all be +/- uniform.
    I’m prone to overdoing/overthinking every hobby I take up. Its learning how to streamline and simplify that’s the hard part for me. I guess that’s why F class is starting to appeal to me now. I like the minutia.
     
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    Reactions: Threadcutter308
    be sure to mark them in such a way that if there is a difference in groups from those you didn't swage, you'll be able to identify them...
     
    I’m prone to overdoing/overthinking every hobby I take up. Its learning how to streamline and simplify that’s the hard part for me. I guess that’s why F class is starting to appeal to me now. I like the minutia.
    Others have given you good advice. Your questions are valid, if for no other reason than the standpoint of safety. (y)

    I tend to think your "larger groups" are more imagined (or possibly the thought of the problem is affecting your marksmanship).

    I have Lapua .308W brass in std and small (Palma) primer configurations. I did what you did to one piece of the Palma brass. I cleaned it up as described above and put it back into the batch. Couldn't tell you which one it is.
     
    Thanks for the feedback y’all! Fire formed the second batch of 50 today and found a load with Berger 108 BT Targets to work with since the ELDMs are all dried up. This is some heavy brass. Looks like it will take 2 firings to get it fully formed to my chamber. Cases are coming out very dirty right now.
     
    Thanks for the feedback y’all! Fire formed the second batch of 50 today and found a load with Berger 108 BT Targets to work with since the ELDMs are all dried up. This is some heavy brass. Looks like it will take 2 firings to get it fully formed to my chamber. Cases are coming out very dirty right now.

    It sounds like you dont have enough pressure yet to properly seal the cases to the chamber wall. I would bet the cases that are coming out dirty still have a radiused edge at the shoulder like your new unfired brass.