my question is about annealing i read it is good to anneal after every round. i also read that you don't want the bottom of the case to reach temps above four hundred degrees. i use my thumb and index finger to roll the case neck in the blue inner tip of the propane torch for about 7 to 8 sec. i then set it into my reload block as it becomes to hot to hold when i touch the lower body of the case with my 375 degree heat stick it doesn't melt indicating that the temp has not reached 375 degrees i also measure the shoulder with a 650 degree heat stick and it melts indicating a temp of at least 650 degrees my question is if I'm achieving my desired task and not creating an unsafe softening of the lower part of the case. I've read that heat below 400 degrees for short periods of time do not affect the molecular structure of the brass but to the same if you don't get the neck temp up to 7 or 8 hundred degrees for a few sec. you will not achieve what you set out to do soften the brass at the neck. can anyone give me comment on this. I'm shooting a 338 Lapua and have purchased a hundred rounds of virgin lapua brass
- Thread starter articman
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Re: annealing concerns
Shit man that's hard as hell to read.
You're OK, but you need to go just longer than you are now. Stopping when the 650 melts is too early.
Use something else to hold the brass. I use a 1/2" deep socket chucked up in a drill.
400 degrees or more for a few seconds isn't going to affect the head at all so no worry's...
Also annealing after every shot is way overkill. Do it after the 4-5th shot, not every single time.
Shit man that's hard as hell to read.
You're OK, but you need to go just longer than you are now. Stopping when the 650 melts is too early.
Use something else to hold the brass. I use a 1/2" deep socket chucked up in a drill.
400 degrees or more for a few seconds isn't going to affect the head at all so no worry's...
Also annealing after every shot is way overkill. Do it after the 4-5th shot, not every single time.
Re: annealing concerns
Shit bro your using some mighty expensive brass to do tests on!!
Have you got any cheaper cases you could practice on to at least get the feel right?
Shit bro your using some mighty expensive brass to do tests on!!
Have you got any cheaper cases you could practice on to at least get the feel right?
Re: annealing concerns
Hint: every time you change to a different subject matter or change emphasis, hit the return key twice.
Hint: every time you change to a different subject matter or change emphasis, hit the return key twice.
Re: annealing concerns
Try some Tempilaq, it's a lacquer that melts at a set temperature. You can get it at auto parts stores or some reloading shops. In my experience, the crayon version (Tempilstik), it doesn't stick to brass well.
I use the 650°F variety. I put a dot on the case body immediately below the shoulder. I only put it on about half a dozen cases, then let it dry. I anneal until the Tempilaq melts, then quench. I start out with three of the Tempilaq cases and count one-mississippi to determine the proper annealing time. For the remaining cases, I just count it out in my head. If it's a big batch, I'll anneal one of the remaining Templiaq cases every 25 pieces or so to make sure I'm still on target. As you proceed, you also can tell by the blue discoloration how consistent you're being.
I also use this, which I got from the Woodchuck Den. It's a tip for my propane torch that makes the twirling less critical. It also is a cooler flame, which slows the annealing so you're less likely to overtemp the brass. Slows it so much, in fact, that I switched from propane to MAP gas:
Try some Tempilaq, it's a lacquer that melts at a set temperature. You can get it at auto parts stores or some reloading shops. In my experience, the crayon version (Tempilstik), it doesn't stick to brass well.
I use the 650°F variety. I put a dot on the case body immediately below the shoulder. I only put it on about half a dozen cases, then let it dry. I anneal until the Tempilaq melts, then quench. I start out with three of the Tempilaq cases and count one-mississippi to determine the proper annealing time. For the remaining cases, I just count it out in my head. If it's a big batch, I'll anneal one of the remaining Templiaq cases every 25 pieces or so to make sure I'm still on target. As you proceed, you also can tell by the blue discoloration how consistent you're being.
I also use this, which I got from the Woodchuck Den. It's a tip for my propane torch that makes the twirling less critical. It also is a cooler flame, which slows the annealing so you're less likely to overtemp the brass. Slows it so much, in fact, that I switched from propane to MAP gas:
Re: annealing concerns
OP
If you can hold for that long, either you have some long cases, or a cold torch.
Are you seeing a purple tinge inside your necks?
Old style torch, with single point of heat.
4-5 sec to burn fingers.
point of heat 1/3 up from shoulder.(on neck)
Made one for $10 cordless driver yesterday.
5-6 sec and no burned fingers!
Faster to do was a bonus!
OP
If you can hold for that long, either you have some long cases, or a cold torch.
Are you seeing a purple tinge inside your necks?
Old style torch, with single point of heat.
4-5 sec to burn fingers.
point of heat 1/3 up from shoulder.(on neck)
Made one for $10 cordless driver yesterday.
5-6 sec and no burned fingers!
Faster to do was a bonus!
Re: annealing concerns
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fred_C_Dobbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I tried making something like that a while back but I had the same problem that one has. I think if I do it again I'll make smaller holes closer to the torch and drill bigger as I near the tip.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fred_C_Dobbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I tried making something like that a while back but I had the same problem that one has. I think if I do it again I'll make smaller holes closer to the torch and drill bigger as I near the tip.
Re: annealing concerns
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fred_C_Dobbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I tried making something like that a while back but I had the same problem that one has. I think if I do it again I'll make smaller holes closer to the torch and drill bigger as I near the tip. </div></div>
I've had the same thoughts. It needs four holes at most and they need to be in graduated sizes.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shot In The Dark</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fred_C_Dobbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
</div></div>
I tried making something like that a while back but I had the same problem that one has. I think if I do it again I'll make smaller holes closer to the torch and drill bigger as I near the tip. </div></div>
I've had the same thoughts. It needs four holes at most and they need to be in graduated sizes.
