annealing nosler brass

[andydrose72]

This was my first attempt at annealing I used the drill and socket method with a propane torch. The brass is nosler 6.5 x 284. I tried to ruin a piece and see how long it took to heat up and could not get it to turn red at all. Even when placed right down in the flame by the tip. I know its not supposed to turn red but I had to try.. Has anyone experienced this? What kindof color should I see in nosler brass? I ran the rest of my cases at 8 seconds a piece and got no color change.

 

[jrob300]

Andy,

You'll get a lot of different responses to this question, but what has worked well for me is to get in a dim/dark room and point the tip of the flame (adjusted to about 1.25-1.5 inch) at shoulder/neck junction... begin to count as you spin the brass. *JUST* as the neck begins to glow a dull orange/red, drop in water. I use the color more than the count, but the count keeps me focused... annealing a bunch of brass is boring. FWIW, I've WAY overannealed brass and it seems to perform just like brass processed as above, but brass that wasn't annealed to the point that I describe, definitely has more bullet seating pressure.

Best of luck...

John

 

[andydrose72]

I loaded some rounds today and definitely did notice a difference in pressure while seating bullets. Am I now just going to have permanent differences in neck tension or can I fix this by doing a better job at annealing in a few more firings?

 

[jrob300]

What kind of difference? If they are under-annealed they will be harder to seat and this can be fixed next brass-prep cycle by fully annealing them. I could tell no difference in seating pressure between annealed and "over-annealed".

John

 

[andydrose72]

I have a bunch that are under annealed. And some that I guess are annealed. Like I said I tried to ruin one case just to see how long it took and could not get the neck to turn red at all. Does mapp gas work better than propane or is the brass transferring the heat into the socket to quickly?

 

[andydrose72]

Ok, I just totally blacked out a room and tried this on some old worn out cases. Finally saw some red color but it took about 15 seconds. Does this sound about right? It seems too long from everything I've been reading.

 

[Macmathews]

I don't think you want to see any red

Kyle

 

[jrob300]

Not surprising to me... IIRC, my 300WM brass took 13-14 count with propane. My .260 brass took 11-12, but then I switched to MAPP gas and it takes about 8-9... BTW, I tested my technique by pressing the edge of the neck opening together against the edge of the neck opening a piece of virgin Lapua brass. Un-annealed brass flattened the Lapua.... as I left it in the flame longer and longer, they equaled out and flattened each other. The times above reflect that experiment...

John

 

[andydrose72]

Thanks for the input. I have been reloading for about 13 years now for my hunting rifles and thought I new a lot. I decided it was time step up my game into long range shooting and I am quickly learning how little I do know.

 

[ZiaHunter]

Get some 750 degree Tempilaq to test your annealing process since color is a poor indicator of whether you are doing it correctly. I anneal on a Bench Source machine and different brands and or lots will yield different coloration even when the same heat and time in the flame is applied. It is not necessary to quench the brass after annealing. Some folks like to and not a problem except you will have to dry the brass. Also quenching requires that you decap prior to annealing in order to allow the inside of the cases to dry.

 

[EOD350]

There is a thread on here about reloading which also covers annealing. He uses 650 tempilaq. When it melts you are done. Safest way to do it. If you get the case head too hot you WILL have a catastrophic chamber failure, and the rest wont be fun.