I have a new stock coming in the near future (see: http://snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showgallery&Number=1470839) and I want to get shooting with it as soon as possible when it arrives. I have read alot of methods for finishing stocks and the stockmaker (Joel Russo) provided me with detailed instructions on how he does them with clear coat which I would like to do at some time in the future but for now is there a down-and-dirty way to get it protected from the elements quickly that I can still re-finish later with the clear coat? I don't really care if it looks 'wrapped in glass' shiny or whatever as long as it will protect the wood from the elements for some winter coyote hunting until I can get a place set-up to hang it and spray it properly with the clear-coat. Is this a cop-out idea that I will regret not doing it 'right' the first time?
Gunsmithing Another laminate stock finishing question....
- Thread starter RoughNeck182
- Start date
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
Yup, there sure is. Go out a buy some tung oil, apply 3 good caots to the stock and let it soak in. Tung oil will not build up a layer on the stock like tru-oil will, it will soak right in no matter how many coats you give it, and it will protect from the elements, and will not be glossy. Then at a leter time you can sand it and refinish it in any way you like.
Yup, there sure is. Go out a buy some tung oil, apply 3 good caots to the stock and let it soak in. Tung oil will not build up a layer on the stock like tru-oil will, it will soak right in no matter how many coats you give it, and it will protect from the elements, and will not be glossy. Then at a leter time you can sand it and refinish it in any way you like.
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
Thanks that sounds like just the thing I was looking for.
Cheers
Thanks that sounds like just the thing I was looking for.
Cheers
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
Minwax Marine Spar Varnish. Available in aerosol cans at Lowes and Home Depot for around $8.50. AG
Minwax Marine Spar Varnish. Available in aerosol cans at Lowes and Home Depot for around $8.50. AG
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
Well wait, you said you don't care if it's shiny or glassy, and you said you need it done fast right?
Tru oil. I just finished a hand made walnut stock in it and it can be done in no time.
Pilkingtons and things that soak in forever don't seal quickly.
Tru oil seemed to fill the pores and seal the grain faster than anything.
Steel wool and tru oil gets my vote
Well wait, you said you don't care if it's shiny or glassy, and you said you need it done fast right?
Tru oil. I just finished a hand made walnut stock in it and it can be done in no time.
Pilkingtons and things that soak in forever don't seal quickly.
Tru oil seemed to fill the pores and seal the grain faster than anything.
Steel wool and tru oil gets my vote
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
I have finished a couple, I would get a goog sandable sealer from your local woodworking store. Make sure it's the one that can be used with all types of top coats.
I would cut it 50-50 with denatured alcohol and apply first coat. Sand it off and reapply full strenght and leave it shinny. It will protect it tell you get a chance to shoot the clear. I have found the true oil and tung oil can be difficult to resand off to apply the clear. Also, check with the woodworking shop, but I would be affriad of the tugoil screwing up the clear coat down the road.
Listen to Joel, he will not lead you a stray.
Willys46
I have finished a couple, I would get a goog sandable sealer from your local woodworking store. Make sure it's the one that can be used with all types of top coats.
I would cut it 50-50 with denatured alcohol and apply first coat. Sand it off and reapply full strenght and leave it shinny. It will protect it tell you get a chance to shoot the clear. I have found the true oil and tung oil can be difficult to resand off to apply the clear. Also, check with the woodworking shop, but I would be affriad of the tugoil screwing up the clear coat down the road.
Listen to Joel, he will not lead you a stray.
Willys46
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
hey i have a tip. i bought my fajen/boyds stocks unfinished. my very first one i used tung oil. looked good but the pores of the wood would grab my beard hairs and hurt like heck. next stocks i finished, i used Danish oil, same thing kinda but with a sealer. worked great. many coats and lots of massaging with 0000 steel wool in between and no more beard plucking. hope that helps. it was Watco brand and i got it at ACE hardware. hope this helps. i think you can get it in gloss or matte and i didnt have to topcoat or clear coat.
hey i have a tip. i bought my fajen/boyds stocks unfinished. my very first one i used tung oil. looked good but the pores of the wood would grab my beard hairs and hurt like heck. next stocks i finished, i used Danish oil, same thing kinda but with a sealer. worked great. many coats and lots of massaging with 0000 steel wool in between and no more beard plucking. hope that helps. it was Watco brand and i got it at ACE hardware. hope this helps. i think you can get it in gloss or matte and i didnt have to topcoat or clear coat.
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
I'm sure Joel told you about the Gorrila glue trick right? , that makes aofr a great sealer , then just top it off with some Minwax fast drying polyurethane
here are the results on a Russo A5L
I'm sure Joel told you about the Gorrila glue trick right? , that makes aofr a great sealer , then just top it off with some Minwax fast drying polyurethane
here are the results on a Russo A5L
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
JJones...Great tip. Waterproof too! Thanks.
JJones...Great tip. Waterproof too! Thanks.
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
That's a pretty stock. Love the A5 design too.
That's a pretty stock. Love the A5 design too.
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
I wet sand the first 2 or 3 coats with tru-oil and go from there. It dries pretty fast wet sanding seems to seal up all the pores really well for a nice smooth finish.
I wet sand the first 2 or 3 coats with tru-oil and go from there. It dries pretty fast wet sanding seems to seal up all the pores really well for a nice smooth finish.
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
Thanks for all the great advice guys... I think I may have to grab some of my old .22's and .410's and try some of this stuff out beforehand.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm sure Joel told you about the Gorrila glue trick right? , that makes aofr a great sealer , then just top it off with some Minwax fast drying polyurethane
here are the results on a Russo A5L
</div></div>
Yeah I got him to walk me through the whole process and he recommended using the Gorrilla glue for sealer then the clearcoat, but with 'minwax' (I didn't write down exactly what type) for mating surfaces because he said it wouldn't build up like the clearcoat. Assuming the minwax he mentioned was the fast dry polyurethane I'm thinking I'll do the gorrilla glue sealing step, then minwax it all like you suggest and hope to sand most of it off later when I am set-up to do a proper job of spraying the clear coat.
If anybody has any more suggestions or tips I'm all ears!!
Thanks for all the great advice guys... I think I may have to grab some of my old .22's and .410's and try some of this stuff out beforehand.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm sure Joel told you about the Gorrila glue trick right? , that makes aofr a great sealer , then just top it off with some Minwax fast drying polyurethane
here are the results on a Russo A5L
Yeah I got him to walk me through the whole process and he recommended using the Gorrilla glue for sealer then the clearcoat, but with 'minwax' (I didn't write down exactly what type) for mating surfaces because he said it wouldn't build up like the clearcoat. Assuming the minwax he mentioned was the fast dry polyurethane I'm thinking I'll do the gorrilla glue sealing step, then minwax it all like you suggest and hope to sand most of it off later when I am set-up to do a proper job of spraying the clear coat.
If anybody has any more suggestions or tips I'm all ears!!
Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
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Re: Another laminate stock finishing question....
ill just say that the danish oil was one step. water beads off. you can get matte or gloss and it seals in one step with no need for a top coat. im too lazy to do all that other stuff, lol
ill just say that the danish oil was one step. water beads off. you can get matte or gloss and it seals in one step with no need for a top coat. im too lazy to do all that other stuff, lol
