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Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

J

JDBraddy

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 15, 2011
60
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56
San Antonio, TX.
Sorry guys,
Yes, I'm in the process of reading the FAQ section. Just put a Rem-700 SPS-AAC SD in .308Win on layaway. It was new for $709+Tax. Hope I din't get poked too bad. Went ahead and got the threaded barrel just because I might be interested in getting a can for it someday. I've already secured Dies and various goodies to reload for it on my Dillon 550b. Have a couple scopes I could pull off other rifles and use untill I can afford some good glass. Top contenders right now are a Leupold VX3 6.5-20 AO-EFR and a Weaver V-16, both have simple duplex rheticals. Still need a scope mount and rings, and some lead, maybe a bipod. I want to try keeping a log from the start with this rifle also. I've never done that before. Will probably be shooting from the bench at first, 100 out to 500yds, that's the longest range here locally. Will probably try it as-is for a while before making any decision about restocking or customizing. Would appreciate any advice/warnings about, starting loads, break-in procedures, equipment, what next, etc.....
Thanks,
JDBraddy
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

breaking is crap, don't bother. Start buy shooting 168 or 175 grain federal gold metal match (avaliable online for 20$). Buy a rear bag, use sand bags or a bi-pod up front. Spend the 140ish or whatever it is for the training videos here, they'll do you more good than any where else you can spend 140$.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

You wont really start breaking it in until you have lots of ammo in it, so shoot it shoot it shoooooot it.

As far bipods, Id get some nice bags and get your zero down. I myself run a bipod, but am a firm believer that you will not get the accuracy as you will on a sandbag
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

I just got an AAC-SD a month or so ago. Mine is super budget, under 1k for everything in the picture. AAC-SD, Falcon 1.5-5, Burris xtr 30mm low, EGW 15 moa base, caldwell bipod, eagle stock pack and homemade rear bag.

aacsd.jpg


First thing I did is take the stock off and open up the front of the stock - with the 1" metal tube and some 80 grit glued on (in the photo). The barrel is just barely clear of the stock when sitting, but if I load the bipod just a little it has a good 1/16" of clearance. It kind of prys the tupperware back...

The butt of the stock is pretty thin, so after shooting it a few times it was time to get the stock pack - it helps a lot.

As for break in, I put 20 rounds through it sighting in the first trip to the range. did a quick clean. Shot 30 rounds the next trip - there was some copper build up, so I did a thorough cleaning. No build up since, so I just go out and shoot.

I started with some HSM and Black Hills 168gr, but now I shoot SW Ammo 175 smk - they're in town so I get great ammo from my local guys. Here's evidence that the gun can shoot better than I can.

target.jpg
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

Ok, I brought it home today! Cleaned it, put on a Weaver one piece Picitinny rail with some blue Locktight, am letting it set overnight. Will pull the Leupold VX3 6.5-20 EFR off another rifle untill I can buy an optic for this one. Am thinking about the SWFA 5-20X50 SS, but have a lot of doubts. I've never owned a real high-end scope, the Leupold is the most expensive I own, and it's a recent aquisition, the SWFA is more than twice what I paid for the Leupold, so I'm hesitant to spend that much on glass with features I don't know how to, and may never use. I also bought some 168gr Hornady Match bullets, plan to try them over 44gr Varget with OAL of 2.800" Any advice before I take her to the range tomarrow?
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JDBraddy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I also bought some 168gr Hornady Match bullets, plan to try them over 44gr Varget with OAL of 2.800" Any advice before I take her to the range tomarrow? </div></div>

Yes - don't start out at book max! Work up gradually in order to establish a node that shoots well but above all a load that is safe in your rifle. Good luck and happy shooting mate.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

+1 on starting at the bottom of the load chart and working up. Check out the reloading threads. There is tons of load data and experience here on the hide for 308.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jagged77</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JDBraddy</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I also bought some 168gr Hornady Match bullets, plan to try them over 44gr Varget with OAL of 2.800" Any advice before I take her to the range tomarrow? </div></div>

Yes - don't start out at book max! Work up gradually in order to establish a node that shoots well but above all a load that is safe in your rifle. Good luck and happy shooting mate.</div></div>

My book says max for Varget with 168gr is 46gr, In fact the same information is printed right on the label of the powder can itself, so that's why I decided to start with 44gr and work up. I've used the full 46gr load in another rifle before without any pressure sign, so I was feeling fairly comfortable starting at 44gr, but if you guys think that two full grains below max is not enough, I could go lower. Where do you reccomend I start with Varget and a 168gr bullet?
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

The latest Hornady manual (specifically for their bullets) states 44grain max. Others will differ and it is up to you where you decide to start.
Load development is specific to your rifle - what is safe in yours (or not as the case may be) might not be safe in another. In a new rifle err on the side of caution to start then work up - you may eventually find a load well above book max that performs well and shows no pressure signs.
I'd start around 40 / 41 and work up looking for accuracy over MV - up to you though.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

Ok, I loaded up 35rounds with 41gr, 20 rounds with 42gr, and 10 rounds with 43gr. Went to the range and was fairly pleased with the initial results, this is a pleasant shooting little rifle. The Hogue stock isn't the most stable on the bags, but the fist target below is at 100yds. I was still making minor sight ajustments while shooting this group, the two shots to bottom right where the first two shots of the day.

5809704261_ca8fe8f0af_z.jpg




























Then I added 2.5 minutes of elevation (10 clicks) and shot this group at 200yds.

5809705171_9813ffa091_z.jpg



























Then I dialed in another 2.5 minutes of elevation (total of 20 clicks above 100yd zero)and shot five rounds (bottom cluster and one in the 9 ring) at 300yds, then adjusted elevation up one more click and fired another five rounds.

5810271288_e23c3bb5bc_z.jpg




























I'm sure I'll be able to improve on these as I refine my loads and bench technique, I need to take the Chronograph and clock my loads next time out, but I'm pretty pleased with this little factory rifle on it's first range session.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JDBraddy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, I loaded up 35rounds with 41gr, 20 rounds with 42gr, and 10 rounds with 43gr. Will go give these a try and see how I do. </div></div>

If you are on the paper vertically and centered windage wise, leave your elevation screw alone, You will find that the groups will tend to rise as your powder charge goes up.

Have you checked your freebore/leade? or are you more interested in filling your magazine than getting close to the lands?

Being this is factory Remington, not a high end aftermarket barrel, yes I would go through a break in.



**** I am referring to factory barrels here, not high end aftermarket ones, those guys pretty much need little to no break in ****


I cannot say whether or not you are going to see much difference in accuracy, but I have noticed considerable differences in how easy broke in barrels are to clean compared to non broke in ones. On my last 2 Remingtons with factory barrels, I went from black nasty patches to patches with only 1/4 or so of the area dirty, I also noticed the brushes went from pretty darned resistant to having absolutely no resistance at all, even when replaced with brand new brushes the only way to get any real grab is to wrap a patch around the brush.

Here is the method I used:

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2109732#post2109732

One rifle that made a quick difference was a CMP re-arsenaled M1 Garand with Criterion Barrel. It went from 6" group to 3" in 15 rounds (Greek surplus ammo)of course it also went from throwing cases at 1 O'clock to 3 in that time frame and I know more than just the barrel was working in.


Words from a respected manufacturer on the subject:

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm

And Another:

http://www.bartleinbarrels.com/BreakInCleaning.htm



Another thread on Break in

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1562996#Post1562996



Free tip to reduce your workload and to nullify residues from corrosive ammo (if you shoot any war horses that use it) swab your bore down with a patch soaked in Kano kreeping oil just before going home, it will loosen up any packed in krud and reduce the number of cleaning cycles, it will also prevent damage to your bore from moisture or if you have an emergency and can't clean the bugger for a few days.


Edited by Cvedrick (12/29/10 05:37 PM)
_________________________
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

Oh, Ya, which range do you intend to go to? Bracken? gotta buddy who shoots out there.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cvedrick</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JDBraddy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok, I loaded up 35rounds with 41gr, 20 rounds with 42gr, and 10 rounds with 43gr. Will go give these a try and see how I do. </div></div>

If you are on the paper vertically and centered windage wise, leave your elevation screw alone, You will find that the groups will tend to rise as your powder charge goes up.

Have you checked your freebore/leade? or are you more interested in filling your magazine than getting close to the lands?

Being this is factory Remington, not a high end aftermarket barrel, yes I would go through a break in.



**** I am referring to factory barrels here, not high end aftermarket ones, those guys pretty much need little to no break in ****


I cannot say whether or not you are going to see much difference in accuracy, but I have noticed considerable differences in how easy broke in barrels are to clean compared to non broke in ones. On my last 2 Remingtons with factory barrels, I went from black nasty patches to patches with only 1/4 or so of the area dirty, I also noticed the brushes went from pretty darned resistant to having absolutely no resistance at all, even when replaced with brand new brushes the only way to get any real grab is to wrap a patch around the brush.

Here is the method I used:

http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2109732#post2109732

One rifle that made a quick difference was a CMP re-arsenaled M1 Garand with Criterion Barrel. It went from 6" group to 3" in 15 rounds (Greek surplus ammo)of course it also went from throwing cases at 1 O'clock to 3 in that time frame and I know more than just the barrel was working in.


Words from a respected manufacturer on the subject:

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm

And Another:

http://www.bartleinbarrels.com/BreakInCleaning.htm



Another thread on Break in

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1562996#Post1562996



Free tip to reduce your workload and to nullify residues from corrosive ammo (if you shoot any war horses that use it) swab your bore down with a patch soaked in Kano kreeping oil just before going home, it will loosen up any packed in krud and reduce the number of cleaning cycles, it will also prevent damage to your bore from moisture or if you have an emergency and can't clean the bugger for a few days.


Edited by Cvedrick (12/29/10 05:37 PM)
_________________________

</div></div>

I didn't bother to check the freebore, Initially I just wanted to get sighted in and get a feel for the rifle. Most of my other rifles, I've found loading long to get within 5 thousanths of the lands didn't make much difference in terms of accuracy, or at least my bench technique wasn't enough to notice any difference. I have a Stoney-Point guage somewhere, but haven't bothered to use it in years. This seems to be a real accurate little rifle, maybe I'll dig it out and give it a try! Thanks.
 
Re: Another new shooter with R-700 build questions.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cvedrick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oh, Ya, which range do you intend to go to? Bracken? gotta buddy who shoots out there. </div></div>

I've never been to Bracken, I'm not even sure where it is. I'll have to go find it. No I went out to the Bullet Hole, and once my membership goes through, I'll probably start using the CTSA range.
 
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