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Any M1 Garand experts out there, I need help

chama

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Minuteman
Nov 11, 2005
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Kansa
Hello, I recently purchased a select grade M1 Garand from the CMP. After swabbing the barrel and greasing the receiver where the bolt and operating rod make contact, I took it to the range to sight it in. The rifle would fire and eject the fired round but would not strip and chamber the next round. I put two clips thru it, each time I had to manually pull the operating handle to charge it.

I took it to a friend of mine who stripped it down and greased the operating handle spring, and every nook and cranny inside.

I just took it out to the range and it helped a little bit, maybe fifty per cent of the time it will still not chamber a new round after firing.

I would appreciate any help on how to rectify this problem. For the amount I paid for it I would think it would be more reliable.
 
It SOUNDS like a short stroke problem. Is it picking up the case rim and just not feeding, or closing on an empty chamber? Does it eject the clip on the last round or a single round loaded into a clip? Are you using factory 150gr ball? The gas cylinder plug must be tight, and the op rod must fit the gas cylinder, that may need to go to a gunsmith to gauge it. The operating spring may need to be replaced, these have been on storage since ???, so a new one may be in order.
 
What ammo are you using? Before I knew better i used Buffalo Bore (really hot stuff) 180gr at 2800ish fps. The bolt was flying back and hitting the receiver so hard it would bounce forward and go into battery (action closed) all before the lifter could lift the round up to be stripped from the clip. Be sure to use “garand safe” ammo.
 
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If you bought it from CMP they will make it right.

In this case I would get an RMA and send it back.

You can look up “Garand Tilt Test” if you are handy.

You basically bought a fresh from rebuild Garand, let CMP fix it.
 
Check to make sure the gas plug is tight . Not sure what ammo you are using , usually the concern is too hot , not too light as to cause short stroking . You can also drop a round in the chamber to make sure the ammo fits fine .
 
I was just about to say that, check that the gas plug is tight and that the poppet valve is seating and not cracked.

Does it feed when cycled by hand? My memory is foggy and gone, IIRC there is some part that can wear and cause lifting issue, but details seem to be long gone in my brain.
 
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I’d guess drag in the op rod caused by a poorly fit stock. Garands aren’t the lego wonder weapon that ar15s are. PM lain has it right. There’s some hand fitting that may need to be done. Get in touch with the CMP and have them sort it out.
 
Definitely strip it down, clean it if necessary and properly lube = grease it.

The CMP and the Garandgear website are good places to go for information. Cleaning, properly lubricating and possibly replacing the op rod spring will take care of the majority of issues with the M1 (in my experience).

Most commercial ammo is too hot for the M1 Garand and could result in a damaged op rod unless you purchase an adjustable gas plug.


 
Google tilt test. The oprod could be a little out of spec as well. I'd call Cmp or find someone in your area to give it a tune-up
 
Hello, I recently purchased a select grade M1 Garand from the CMP. After swabbing the barrel and greasing the receiver where the bolt and operating rod make contact, I took it to the range to sight it in. The rifle would fire and eject the fired round but would not strip and chamber the next round. I put two clips thru it, each time I had to manually pull the operating handle to charge it.

I took it to a friend of mine who stripped it down and greased the operating handle spring, and every nook and cranny inside.

I just took it out to the range and it helped a little bit, maybe fifty per cent of the time it will still not chamber a new round after firing.

I would appreciate any help on how to rectify this problem. For the amount I paid for it I would think it would be more reliable.
OP did you resolve your issue?
 
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you guys do know that the 30-06 ammo used to test, design etc the Garand was hotter than commercial 30-06 today? Stop parroting falsehoods proven to be wrong

Open, your issue is either what cas6969 said or it could be your enblocs. Are the commercial chinese crap as they've been known to bind too tight (odd to say I know but have caused cycling issues)
 
I only use my hand loads of 168 gr. sierra & 46 gr. of IMR 4895. I ordered some new operating rod springs but have been too busy to install them.
 
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I only use my hand loads of 168 gr. sierra & 46 gr. of IMR 4895. I ordered some new operating rod springs but have been too busy to install them.
Not an expert here but.......46.0 may be a bit light. I load 168 sierras at ~2640 fps. I believe that velocity was a match load using 173 grain bullets and is my targeted velocity. It has never failed to function in any M1 in which I fired it.
 
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you guys do know that the 30-06 ammo used to test, design etc the Garand was hotter than commercial 30-06 today? Stop parroting falsehoods proven to be wrong

Open, your issue is either what cas6969 said or it could be your enblocs. Are the commercial chinese crap as they've been known to bind too tight (odd to say I know but have caused cycling issues)
Do what you want to, but I will stick to medium burn rate powders such as IMR 4895 for the Garand. I do not want to chance bending an op rod or causing any other issues. I run the same loads in the '03-A3 and M1917.
 
Hi there, well I ordered a new recoil spring from Garandgear and installed it well greased of course. Also found out that the gas port hole was smaller than it should be. So my friend drilled it out to be a little larger. Took out to range the first nice day and it ran like it should, no hiccups, or issues.

I don’t know if it was the new recoil spring or the larger gas port hole or a combination of both, but it works like it should.

I think that the CMP should be more thorough with them after they rebuild them.

Thanks for your interest.

Don Miller
 
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Hi there, well I ordered a new recoil spring from Garandgear and installed it well greased of course. Also found out that the gas port hole was smaller than it should be. So my friend drilled it out to be a little larger. Took out to range the first nice day and it ran like it should, no hiccups, or issues.

I don’t know if it was the new recoil spring or the larger gas port hole or a combination of both, but it works like it should.

I think that the CMP should be more thorough with them after they rebuild them.

Thanks for your interest.

Don Miller
Gas port drilled? Interesting. Very interesting.
 
Hi there, well I ordered a new recoil spring from Garandgear and installed it well greased of course. Also found out that the gas port hole was smaller than it should be. So my friend drilled it out to be a little larger. Took out to range the first nice day and it ran like it should, no hiccups, or issues.

I don’t know if it was the new recoil spring or the larger gas port hole or a combination of both, but it works like it should.

I think that the CMP should be more thorough with them after they rebuild them.

Thanks for your interest.

Don Miller

Takes 30 seconds to change the spring. I did it immediately upon getting mine and the difference was noticeable. Your listed load of 46.0 IMR4895 is below Hodgdon's starting load and could be part of the issue.
 
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