- Thread starter BJames
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I have been using MPro7. Soak a patch, place it on the muzzle and wrap a rubber band around it. I wait about 45 mins and the caked on parts come off easily with a plastic pick.
I have soaked them in boretech c4 carbon remover and clr with intermittent steel brushing, usually have it all off in a half hour and three brushings 10 minutes apart.
I think the CLR worked faster but it also takes the black off the brake I think. One came out splotchy and the second came out looking much more silver entirely.
Edit: Shoot, you said muzzle, not muzzle brake. I would not go scrubbing the crap out of the crown with a steel brush, but a brake all the way.
I think the CLR worked faster but it also takes the black off the brake I think. One came out splotchy and the second came out looking much more silver entirely.
Edit: Shoot, you said muzzle, not muzzle brake. I would not go scrubbing the crap out of the crown with a steel brush, but a brake all the way.
CLR and proper pipe cleaners (https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/bryn-maur-ream-n-klean-pipe-cleaners/ID=prod6021244-product) do the trick for me. Once you're done, wipe it all down with a dry cloth, blast it with electronics cleaner (or similar) and wait for that to dry, then lightly oil everything... and Bob's your uncle.
Alternatively, if you just want to be able to soak it, you can try some Piston Kleen (https://www.amazon.com/Piston-Kleen-Carbon-Remover-Gallon/dp/B00IJZB6QK).
Alternatively, if you just want to be able to soak it, you can try some Piston Kleen (https://www.amazon.com/Piston-Kleen-Carbon-Remover-Gallon/dp/B00IJZB6QK).
Boretech C4 carbon remover.
Or Eliminator
Carburetor cleaner works like a champ.
Another vote for Kroil, I cleaned my Sparrow take down .22 can with it and it was the easiest so far by far...
Try soda blasting.
I've use Berryman carburetor cleaner and brake clean. Sometimes GM top engine cleaner if it's been on there a while.
Priceless!
just dribble some of this on it, wait 10 mins and wipe off. Dont be scrubbing it. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...4-carbon-remover-bore-cleaning-solvent-liquid
Are you running a direct thread can or a brake attach?
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You really like the automotive products!? I’ve been using the fuel injector cleaner you recommended on the 6x47 you built. So far, so good.
May I ask what is the fuel injector cleaner for?
What's your application technique?
I run a 30P-1 direct. It makes a mess that is for certain. If you use KG carbon remover soaked on a cleaning patch after each session before you leave, while it is still warm, you will find it is quite easy to deal with. For the first time though, it's a mess. I used KG, my fingernail and a plastic brush removing the buildup. Probably could have used something more harsh but I wanted to be careful with the crown.
Damp patch, pistol rod through the bore guide, and very carefully after that. Basically just until I start to feel a little resistance. The jury is still out for me on this, I see the theory with trying to keep the carbon ring in check without cleaning the entire barrel, but I’m not so sure after that stuff ate the O-rings off my bore guide...
Wondering if patch wrapped around a nylon brush, just give a few turns in the throa tand then call it good?
That definitely could work. I’m thinking something along these same lines but with clr. I’m not sure what the chemical composition is of fuel injector cleaner or what metals are used to manufacture engine valves compared to our barrels and the stuff purposely designed to eat carbon.
Yamaha ring free cuts carbon really quick. I'd get about 1/8" of carbon on the crown running Rl26 in my creed. I tried using CR10 on a patch then on a towel I would rub the crown with. Took about 45 minutes. Ringfree rubbed on at the range after I squirt some wipeout in for the ride home. I eleastic band a rag on the brake if i don't remove it. When I get home i patch out the bore then wet a rag and the carbon comes off in less than 5 minutes. If you wait till it's cold it will take longer to work.
Kroil will do the same thing It's hard to find locally for me. This is how I discovered the ringfree.
Kroil will do the same thing It's hard to find locally for me. This is how I discovered the ringfree.
I wonder how well an automotive additive would work. Like the vp race fuel additive. Had anyone tried since they are made to eat the carbon and varnish off of valves and injectors
Yamaha ringfree is the additive used to keep the carbon off of the O2 sensor in the efi 2stoke engines. Quick kleen works just as well. Chevron techron is probably the fastest carbon cutter you can easily get. Try it on your brake first. You will be surprised how quickly it works. I use the ringfree because I buy it by the case for the boat and always have some here.
I've never seen issues with FIC or Carb Cleaner in the barrel steels. Engines have AL and chrome-vanadium and chrome molybdenum steels all over the place in them. For a stainless rifle barrel it's a no-brainer.
Mpro7 works great for me. A little goes along way, let it soak for 10 min or so, scrub with nylon brush if need, rag away.
The guy who said steel wool, that scares me, wouldn't that scratch up the parkerizing or whatever finish the barrel has?
The guy who said steel wool, that scares me, wouldn't that scratch up the parkerizing or whatever finish the barrel has?
CLR and an old tooth brush , never seen anything eat carbon like that stuff and I’ve tried it all.
I tried Lemi-Shine as recommended by APA and it got some of the carbon build up off, but not much. I tried fuel injector cleaner / carburetor cleaner and let the muzzle break and muzzle sit in that for 10-15mins. I used a old tooth brush and a brass brush to clean the remaining carbon off. Next time I will try CLR or some of the boat products. I was tempted to let it sit longer
Kroil and 0000 steel wool. Nothing better!
I hear amazing comments for CLR.
I've been using BoreTech's Cameleon Gel with very good success.
https://www.boretech.com/products/btck-40002
I've been using BoreTech's Cameleon Gel with very good success.
https://www.boretech.com/products/btck-40002
So, I tried most of the suggestions and here’s what I came up with.
1. Most “gun” cleaners will work, eventually... Might take a few days for the really caked and baked jobs.
2. Fuel injector cleaner works faster than the so called “gun” cleaners. Overall, tends to work better, though you might need to use a brush to remove the really stubborn patches.
3. CLR works the fastest bar none, no brushing really required. However, I’m nervous to use it too much after my 6mm brass jag now has a frosted finish after 2 uses. I know it’s just soft brass and barrels are stainless. My next experiment is let my thread protector sit in the stuff for an extended period of time and see what happens.
Not scientific at all, but for some guy in his basement I think I’ve found what will work for me. Next I’d like to try the Slip 2000 products. Theyre making some pretty amazing claims.
1. Most “gun” cleaners will work, eventually... Might take a few days for the really caked and baked jobs.
2. Fuel injector cleaner works faster than the so called “gun” cleaners. Overall, tends to work better, though you might need to use a brush to remove the really stubborn patches.
3. CLR works the fastest bar none, no brushing really required. However, I’m nervous to use it too much after my 6mm brass jag now has a frosted finish after 2 uses. I know it’s just soft brass and barrels are stainless. My next experiment is let my thread protector sit in the stuff for an extended period of time and see what happens.
Not scientific at all, but for some guy in his basement I think I’ve found what will work for me. Next I’d like to try the Slip 2000 products. Theyre making some pretty amazing claims.
The best choice, if you dont' see it, is it really there?
I tried several of the Slip 2k products in years past... I was unimpressed. Mostly they did nothing for me.
Has anyone tried removing the break from the rifle and putting it in a vibratory tumble with media only? Or would that be a stupid idea?
