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Any Masterpiece Arms rifle owners out there?

I have their BA rifle ( standard BA chassis). It also wears one of their barrels. The action is the Defiance Rebel and the rifle is chambered for the 300 Norma Mag. It is a very nice shooting rifle. Out of all my firearms it is my absolute favorite. I will be getting another in a smaller round for the closer in work and playing with tight groups. I find it comfortable to get behind, but have read a couple of posts where people found it less comfortable than a different chassis ( going out on a ledge here but trying to recall, i think someone mentioned a KRG Bravo felt better). Anyhow, I am a touch over 6'3" and have fairly long arms and I like the fit. Dont know if that helps any or not since there are many styles of getting behind the rifle.
Good luck, i hope whatever you come up with works well.
 
I have an MPA 65BA-SL with a 26" MPA barrel. Awesome rifle. It's shooting sub MOA groups with all test loads during load development making it a little challenging to choose the perfect load.
 
I have an MPA 65BA-SL with a 26" MPA barrel. Awesome rifle. It's shooting sub MOA groups with all test loads during load development making it a little challenging to choose the perfect load.
Texascavediver:
How is the performance of the Switch Lug system? Im on the edge of purchasing that rifle myself.... How is your RTZ when you switch calibers or bring it back to a previously zeroed caliber? How confident are you with a hand tightened barrel (hard for me settle with that)...

I see lots of guys on here not supporting the WTO Switch Lug and seem to favor the Barlock or spec'ed actions and a receiver hitch barrel vice... what were some of the factors that went into your decision on the Switch Lug? Sounds like you are happy with your decision?
 
Texascavediver:
How is the performance of the Switch Lug system? Im on the edge of purchasing that rifle myself.... How is your RTZ when you switch calibers or bring it back to a previously zeroed caliber? How confident are you with a hand tightened barrel (hard for me settle with that)...

I see lots of guys on here not supporting the WTO Switch Lug and seem to favor the Barlock or spec'ed actions and a receiver hitch barrel vice... what were some of the factors that went into your decision on the Switch Lug? Sounds like you are happy with your decision?
I have the switch lug and love it. I shoot 6.5 CM, 25 CM and .243. I invested in one chassis (folding competition), one trigger (TT diamond), one scope, etc... and I switch them out at the range in less then a minute.
The RTZ is within 1 MOA. The barrel lock up is secure. I think other system manufacturers quit production of similar devices d/t loosening isssues.
 
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I have the switch lug and love it. I shoot 6.5 CM, 25 CM and .243. I invested in one chassis (folding competition), one trigger (TT diamond), one scope, etc... and I switch them out at the range in less then a minute.
The RTZ is within 1 MOA. The barrel lock up is secure. I think other system manufacturers quit production of similar devices d/t loosening isssues.
Thanks for the feedback!! I’m 99% sure I’ll make the leap into the same rig soon.

What about barrel manufacturing? From my understanding - I’ll be limited to either buying from MPA.... or doing something ultra custom... doesn’t look like anyone else is offering off the shelf barrels? That was one other hold up where an impact or big horn action could have a leg up.
 
One other question for you MPA owners.... what’s the best way to procure a rifle? MPA direct? Or - did you go through a dealer and get a better price? Looks like a MSRP kind of transaction :eek:
 
I bought a 6.5 in the competition chassis in April 2018. I spoke to MPA and the wait time was 6 to 9 months. They said I could call Core Solutions in Fla. I spoke to them and had them make a few personal changes, and had the rifle in hand 5 days later. I liked the rifle overall, Al at MPA was always available to speak to me about the rifle also.
I have since sold the rifle and have purchased a Robert Gradous build. For me personally, sitting behind a Manners T6A with a Defiance Deviant tactical action is more comfortable and I believe a better overall rifle for me.
 
Thanks for the feedback!! I’m 99% sure I’ll make the leap into the same rig soon.

What about barrel manufacturing? From my understanding - I’ll be limited to either buying from MPA.... or doing something ultra custom... doesn’t look like anyone else is offering off the shelf barrels? That was one other hold up where an impact or big horn action could have a leg up.
My local gun smith Dresdens in Ohio spun up all my barrels in 2 weeks. I bought the Bartlein blanks. It was easy, not ultra custom at all. My post about the switch lug issue was to highlight how amazing their customer service is.
 
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get a hold of Rsos2313 on this site he is with Mahoning Valley Milling Co. I got my MPA 6.5 cm from him for a great price and it shoots the 3/8th guarantee easy with 130 norma match and 140 hornady match.
 
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I got to hold one of their BA rifles; it happened to be in the NRA blue color (which I really like). They have a great feel to them; for me it is just such a natural feel. If you get one, I am confident that you will be very satisfied. Once I am able to save up my money, I plan on buying one (probably just the BA chassis). Good luck.
 
That’s great!

Anyone with a negative experience?

I have a 65 ba with the switch lug. It did great and met the 3/8 guarantee up until 700 ish rounds. I noticed my dope at 700 and 1050 getting lower and started getting pressure signs. I started getting flat primers and some popping out. MPA told me to try different ammo.

I only shot the eld's b/c they shot so good up until then. I tried some federal non typical, seller and bellot, and sig. All had pressure signs and sig brass stuck in the barrel on the second shot. Magnetospeed read 2960 to a little over 3000 fps on all ammo I tried. Before this eld's averaged 2710.

I sent the rifle in and they inspected it and shot 5 rounds of federal and said everything was ok. I have shot 700 + rounds of 40 eldm and now can't shoot them and any other factory ammo I have tried. The primers either pop at least every 3rd round and have gotten 2 stuck cases. I have emailed them several more times with no response and no one is answering the phone.

I'm tired of fucking with it and sending it to keystone accuracy for a new krieger barrel and let John inspect the action and switch lug.
 
I have a 65 ba with the switch lug. It did great and met the 3/8 guarantee up until 700 ish rounds. I noticed my dope at 700 and 1050 getting lower and started getting pressure signs. I started getting flat primers and some popping out. MPA told me to try different ammo.

I only shot the eld's b/c they shot so good up until then. I tried some federal non typical, seller and bellot, and sig. All had pressure signs and sig brass stuck in the barrel on the second shot. Magnetospeed read 2960 to a little over 3000 fps on all ammo I tried. Before this eld's averaged 2710.

I sent the rifle in and they inspected it and shot 5 rounds of federal and said everything was ok. I have shot 700 + rounds of 40 eldm and now can't shoot them and any other factory ammo I have tried. The primers either pop at least every 3rd round and have gotten 2 stuck cases. I have emailed them several more times with no response and no one is answering the phone.

I'm tired of fucking with it and sending it to keystone accuracy for a new krieger barrel and let John inspect the action and switch lug.
My shooting partner had the same issues. It was a carbon ring in the throat. You should borescope it.

He found. Lot of stress fractures that seemed to collect and retain carbon. What's your cleaning regimen?

He scrubbed it till he thought it was clean. Scoped it and found serious carbon fouling.

We are meeting tomorrow to score my bartline and Kreiger barrels to compare cleaning processes.
 
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I did (I'm pretty new to this so I might not know what i'm looking for) and took it to a local gunsmith. He checked for a carbon ring and put go and no/go gauges in to check headspace and said it looked good.

I discussed a carbon ring with Al before I sent it in. The only contact I've had was a note back with the rifle saying everything was ok with the rifle and 5 federal brass in the box. They didn't have pressure signs but i have a butt load of hornady eld's sitting here. Hasn't talked to anyone since.

I will say they were very responsive before they got the rifle. I talked to Al and Phil on the phone and were prompt with emails. Phil called me to assure me they would find problem and fix it. I don't know what's going on there.

I met them at the Expo last year and they spent an hour probably just taking with me and friends. Something just isn't working out on this and I'm tired of fucking with the rifle and just want to enjoy my hobby with the little time off work I get.
 
I did (I'm pretty new to this so I might not know what i'm looking for) and took it to a local gunsmith. He checked for a carbon ring and put go and no/go gauges in to check headspace and said it looked good.

I discussed a carbon ring with Al before I sent it in. The only contact I've had was a note back with the rifle saying everything was ok with the rifle and 5 federal brass in the box. They didn't have pressure signs but i have a butt load of hornady eld's sitting here. Hasn't talked to anyone since.

I will say they were very responsive before they got the rifle. I talked to Al and Phil on the phone and were prompt with emails. Phil called me to assure me they would find problem and fix it. I don't know what's going on there.

I met them at the Expo last year and they spent an hour probably just taking with me and friends. Something just isn't working out on this and I'm tired of fucking with the rifle and just want to enjoy my hobby with the little time off work I get.
My shooting partner had the same issues. It was a carbon ring in the throat. You should borescope it.

He found. Lot of stress fractures that seemed to collect and retain carbon. What's your cleaning regimen?

He scrubbed it till he thought it was clean. Scoped it and found serious carbon fouling.

What's your load detail? How often do you clean? When you do clean put a patch on a jag and push through dry. See if you feel a narrow spot.
 
I cleaned about every 100 to 150 rounds. Sometimes less than a 100. I used slip 2000 the first time it was what I had. I then used wipeout with accelerator.

When I started having pressure signs I switched to Montana extreme and eliminator.

I run several wet patches and let sit for 30 min. Then one wet patch and then scrub with brush. Then one wet patch. Repeat until patch is clean. Then dry patches. I then switch product and repeat until I get clean patches when switching products.

I don’t feel a tight spot when running a dry patch.
 
I currently have 4 of their rifles, one 6 Cr, two 6.5’s, one is a lite chassis and the other is a comp, and I have a 300 win. They all shoot to the guarantee of 3/8 minute.

I shot a 10 shot group through the 6 the other day that measure .379”. I love the MPA’s!
 
One other question for you MPA owners.... what’s the best way to procure a rifle? MPA direct? Or - did you go through a dealer and get a better price? Looks like a MSRP kind of transaction :eek:
Xtremegunsandammo is listed as a top dealer for them. I just ordered mine the other day and the price was great! They are on sale right now I believe and sell a ton of them
 
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I have a comp chassis. I could do without the side cutout on the magwell personally, but that's personal preference and not really a negative. FWIW it's on one of their factory rifles in 6CM and it easily exceeds the accuracy guarantee with factory loaded 108 eld.

Found mine for just over 2k on clearance from some random gun range but Xtremegunsandammo (easier to call than navigate their website) as mentioned has good prices on them and they stock a ton, same on Leupold and Vortex optics.
 
Anyone know the ballpark price of an additional MPA barrel for a switch lug?

600's if I remember correctly. There was something about them going up in price, and that was several months ago when I asked them about it, but I don't think the ballpark really changed.
 
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Needing some Insight from MPA owners.. looking to do the switch lug set up with a Vortex Razor 4-27. Ideally - I can run 6.5cm in PRS and I'd like to switch barrels to .223 for a F-T/R rifle (and a cheap shootin' trainer)...
Does anyone run this set up? Worried that the normal BA folder on a 24" .223 (plus the heavy vortex) is gonna push me over the 18.8 lb limit for F class... Really dont want to do the hybrid chassis if I can avoid it...
any input???
This is my SWAG at what Im lookin' at for a 24" 223 folding BA
RIFLE 12.5
SCOPE 1.3
MOUNT .5
FULL MAG 2
BIPOD 1
Total
17.3
 
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What and where is this carbon ring? Just in front of the brass mouth by a few thousandths or a few inches down the chamber?

My friend and i have 3 MPA 6.5cr. They are 1/2moa until about 500 rounds, then 1" is the norm. I just pulled mine at 600 .
Velocity wise 1 held out until 1200 rounds.
The rest of the gun is great.
 
That’s concerning. Is this a regular phenomenon? I’m about to hook up on one and I’m going this route because my Bergara hmr pro opened from 3/4 to 1” at 1500 rds. Getting rebarreled now, but if I am going to deal with a more finicky platform; maybe I should spend more on ammo and training ;):unsure:
 
I own several in 6.5, and they have stayed accurate beyond 500 rounds. Sub 1/2 inch. I’m curious how hot the ones that quit shooting by 500 rounds were shot, because I haven’t seen the same thing. I also don’t shoot them until they are blistering hot.
 
Mine started about 700 rounds.

Never shot more than 10 rounds before I let cool.
 
Oh and the 700 rounds were factory hornady 140 eldm
 
Mine was fed 400 warm loads in winter. Then 100 borrowed very soft loads. After that in spring the warm load was blazing hot and accuracy went to pot DURING a 2 day match.
From what I'm reading this sounds like carbon build up and standard scrubbing don't cut it.
 
One other question for you MPA owners.... what’s the best way to procure a rifle? MPA direct? Or - did you go through a dealer and get a better price? Looks like a MSRP kind of transaction :eek:

I called them direct and talked over what I wanted with them, glad I did. I had a suppressor that I was planning on using and really did not need the brake that came with the rifle, saved me $100 since I just wanted it threaded and capped, no brake. They also offer a mil/ le discount if you fall into that category. Think it took about 2.5 months to be delivered.
 
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Emailed Phil back and forth over 3 month period & before I put in my custom order he wanted to speak to me on the phone. Went over the whole build over an hour+ discussion and Phil provided an immense amount of feedback. Delivery on everything was less than 2 months.
 
Did you gentlemen with the pressure issues get them resolved? I’m about a hair away from pulling the trigger on a 6.5 ba in a comp chassis. I’m going with an impact 737R action for ease of pre-fit barrels later/the monster reputation. Just wondering if I should just go with an other than MPA barrel from the start?
 
Mine should be fixed.
Pulled the barrel. Bore scope showed a massive carbon rim. Empty brass would get stuck in the chamber.
Cut .020" off same case and it slipped in and out.
It took C4 and a brush in a drill to get it out.
Bore scope shows no ring or rim. Brass doesn't get stuck.
Still have not fired this barrel.
 
Did you gentlemen with the pressure issues get them resolved? I’m about a hair away from pulling the trigger on a 6.5 ba in a comp chassis. I’m going with an impact 737R action for ease of pre-fit barrels later/the monster reputation. Just wondering if I should just go with an other than MPA barrel from the start?
Pressure signs would have to be a carbon ring in the throat. I can't imagine it would be a defect from the manufacturer... My. Mpa rifle/barrel shoots great!

Don't regret my mpa at all!
 
Not gonna lie, the Defender pistol in 9mm is tempting. Gonna keep it under the seat of my 64 Impala, just incase I catch a fool steppin.
 
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Pressure signs would have to be a carbon ring in the throat. I can't imagine it would be a defect from the manufacturer... My. Mpa rifle/barrel shoots great!

Don't regret my mpa at all!


Mine will consistently shoot below 0.4” five shot groups at 100. Will often see 1/3 MOA groups at 100, 300 and 400 yards. The rifle comes with a 3/8’ths MOA guarantee (for Hornady factory 140 ELDM Match ammo) and in my experience, it meets this. VERY happy with the gun and would recommend it to friends and family.

Yes a carbon ring can form in any rifle after 500-700 rounds. In other factory rifles it is less of an issue, or at least it takes longer before you start blowing primers. The MPA has a fairly tight (close to min spec) chamber and the throat is tighter than the average (oversize) Remington or Savage chamber. That is why it shoots factory Hornady 140 ELDM 6.5 CM ammo so well. A tight chamber is not a bad thing, but it requires some care and attention.

Get a Teslong bore scope, it is around $50, so very cheap, and it is really the first low cost borescope that works well. If you see even a slight carbon ring in the neck of the chamber, scrub it out with an oversize bronze brush. I used Ballistol and a bronze brush chucked in a drill, run it at low speed. No need to overdo it. [If a drill scares you then do it manually, just takes longer but it works too.]

To prevent a carbon ring in future, manually spin an oversize bronze brush in the chamber every time you clean, and use a suitable carbon solvent. Prevention is really very easy. [If you never do this, the carbon can become hard baked like the stuff in an oven, and then it can be very difficult to remove (solvents won’t work anymore, you will need mechanical contact). I had that problem on a Savage 12 after 2,500 rounds, speed became very erratic, and it took a lot of effort to clean out.]

Tip: Because of the “match grade chamber”, if you use thick brass like Alpha, you might need to turn the neck to ensure a bullet will slip freely in and out of a fired case. Depends on the batch. I use Lapua brass with no issues, and no need to neck turn. No neck clearance issues with Hornady factory ammo.

Berger factory ammo (SRP Lapua brass) had two pierced primers per box, but only on hot summer days (had no issues in winter), probably because my bolt has not been bushed yet. Plan on doing that soon.

Pressure signs show up about 1.0 grains lower than my Savage 12, so start low and work up. That is to be expected for a min spec chamber.

Once you realize the chamber is of a different dimension, and you take that into account in your reloading, all is well.
 
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I heard last year that new barrels are $650. A little pricey. But: You don’t need to send in the gun - that is a huge benefit!

Have loosened the switch lug nut and spun the barrel out, then put it back again, hand tight only, then tighten the nut with a Fat Wrench inch pound torque screwdriver. Zero moved two clicks. Maybe i was just lucky, but i very was happen to see that! A caliber change at the range is now entirely practical. Takes less than a minute. Of course if you want to go up to a short mag, you will need a second bolt with the magnum boltface, so additional costs there.

I think their switch lug system really works well. Have checked head space after the barrel change with go and no-go gauges, and it was good.

My chassis is a folder. If the set screw that is used to remove slop in the folding mechanism moves, it will affect accuracy a bit. My groups opened up. So check it regularly. Locktite is probably a good idea.

Triggertech trigger is remarkably good. Very crisp and dead easy to adjust.

Muzzle brake is very aggressive and will knock water bottles off the bench, and tear pages from your reloading notebook. Loud (so double plug) but it works very well, and you can see bullets hit at the 400 yard and 600 yard steel targets. Recoil on my 6.5 CM is almost non- existent.
 
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What makes the MPA BA rifle special is the ergonomics of the chassis: It prevents the shooter from curling a thumb over the neck of the stock and torquing the gun during trigger manipulation, instead providing a thumb shelf on the same side as the trigger hand, and the vertical grip forces the trigger finger outwards so it is parallel with the bore axis, helping to prevent a sideways pull on the trigger. Takes a while to get used to, especially if you have been shooting a traditional stock for your entire life, but after a few weeks, it all clicks and the groups come together like never before.

Five of my friends went to the ranch this past weekend, and i let them shoot the MPA at steel gongs at 400 using Berger factory ammo (formerly ABM Ammo, the Bryan Litz outfit, since acquired by Lapua). For many of them, that was the furthest shot they ever attempted. They all managed to connect with the small 3” gong. The 78 year old did the best. Military training must help.

Big smiles all round!
 
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Did some partial load development yesterday for my MPA at 100. Just looking for a flat spot in the speed vs powder charge graph. RL-16 and weight sorted Hornady 135 A-tip bullets in neck turned and sorted Lapua cases.

Never seen such small groups during load development:

9605D17A-EF4E-4ED6-8FE1-5927A41B619E.jpeg


RL-16 from 40.0 to 41.6. Aiming for the corner of the black square just above the two shot “group”. From 0.05” to 0.2” center to center. I realize some of them look like single bullet holes, but i promose there are two bullets through that tiny 0.264+0.05” hole.

Ideal BR-like setup might have helped here: Enhanced Bag Rider installed, shooting free recoil off big heavy sandbags from a good bench. Squeezing the rear bag which is huge and filled with heavy chromium sand. Stable bench, and nobody around me, with little wind (5-7 mhp) from the 4 o’clock position. Cannot ask for more.... other than a $1500 front joystick rest.

I realize a single two shot group does not count... but wow that was a surprise. I normally see groups open up and close down again as powder charge goes up. For me this result is not at all typical. [I am not a BR shooter, just ‘appropriating‘ some of their equipment and techniques for bench work.]
 
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