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AR Reloading Help Please

rlsmith1

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Minuteman
  • May 1, 2019
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    Midwest
    Been trying to get a load put together before I load a couple thousand rounds to shoot. I’ve got 77 SMKs and TAC to work with and the first batch are using RP brass (not set on that but it’s what I have most of to start with).

    I did 23grs to 24.8grs in 0.2gr increments and seated bullets to full length (1.870 BTO). Shooting out of a chrome 13.9” 223 Wylde barrel.

    Which group would you pursue further? I’d like to avoid doing the full range of loads at 0.05” increments if possible. 23.0, 23.4 and 23.6 seem the most promising but want to make sure I’m not missing anything here.

    I know I had a stable shooting position because the 2 larger dots in the upper right are me sighting in. One is the 13.9” I’m load developing for and the other (top right) is a 20” stainless RRA that’s always shot well. Both shooting factory ammo that isn’t really precision rounds (Fiocci 50 VMAX and AE 223 75 TMJ). I had cleaned both barrels and so these were also the fouling shots.

    Thanks I’m advance!
     

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    SD/ES are pretty high with all of them. What are your reloading steps?
     
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    My best loads for gassers always seem to be near max charge, the runs better as well. I like the quicker cycle and dwell time that comes with upper charges.
    Couple things I would do, make sure you have 4-500 rounds down the barrel before getting serious chasing velocity numbers. And if you truly want precision get the best trigger you can afford.
     
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    77smks like TAC between 24-24.5 grains in an overwhelming majority of 5.56 Nato and 223 wylde chambers using most SRPs and LC/like kind brass. Load to mk262 mod 1 specs insofar as OAL (seating depth CBTO can vary a bit and it won’t matter). Your target between 24.2-24.6 shows same. 24.4 looks the best (throw out the flyer at 2 o’clock as it was probably you) and the center of those POIs look broadly aligned.

    Ignore all SD/ES figures as you only have 5 rounds in each test sample.

    Can I assume these are all shot at 100m?
     
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    SD/ES are pretty high with all of them. What are your reloading steps?
    Below are my steps but I think I have a lack of neck tension (guessing)

    1. Tumble once fired brass
    2. Lube
    3. Decap, Resize and wipe clean (RCBS 223SB die)
    4. Trim case to length (1.760” on these I believe, max length)
    5. Prime (hand prime)
    6. Charge (RCBS balance scale with Hornady manual trickler)
    7. Seat bullet (RCBS 223SB die)

    I’ve got pretty good tolerances (+/- 0.002” on the BTO measurements so I’m seating consistent but I do feel some bullets seat easier than others. My powder consistency has gotten more consistent with the trickler. I’d like to have neck tension set to 0.002” but my dies don’t allow for that. Really would be happy with consistent MOA here
     
    My best loads for gassers always seem to be near max charge, the runs better as well. I like the quicker cycle and dwell time that comes with upper charges.
    Couple things I would do, make sure you have 4-500 rounds down the barrel before getting serious chasing velocity numbers. And if you truly want precision get the best trigger you can afford.
    Thanks, I’ve got 300 or so down now and I’m not necessarily chasing velocity with this one. I won’t say not to a faster bullet though! I’d like it if it shot well on the upper end of things for sure.

    The trigger is important for sure. I actually switched from SSA-E to RRA Varmint trigger because the RRA has an A2 stock and that’s easier for me to load consistently and rides the bag better than the adjustable stock with the SSA-E
     
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    77smks like TAC between 24-24.5 grains in an overwhelming majority of 5.56 Nato and 223 wylde chambers using most SRPs and LC/like kind brass. Load to mk262 mod 1 specs insofar as OAL (seating depth CBTO can vary a bit and it won’t matter). Your target between 24.2-24.6 shows same. 24.4 looks the best (throw out the flyer at 2 o’clock as it was probably you) and the center of those POIs look broadly aligned.

    Ignore all SD/ES figures as you only have 5 rounds in each test sample.

    Can I assume these are all shot at 100m?
    Yes, 100 yd groups here. I’ll load a handful of each for sure and step the seating back. Would you run it back 0.005” or 0.01” at a time?

    I’ll probably try another round in the low 23’s because there’s some consistency there too.

    I’m not looking for single digit SDs in this load. I don’t think I have the time to watch the scale for that long on a case as small as a 223. I’ve reloaded for 6.5 CM and have gotten low SDs there but that’s almost twice the powder to mask charge variations. I won’t be shooting this much last 600 or 800 yds depending on where I settle for velocity
     
    Yes, 100 yd groups here. I’ll load a handful of each for sure and step the seating back. Would you run it back 0.005” or 0.01” at a time?

    I’ll probably try another round in the low 23’s because there’s some consistency there too.

    I’m not looking for single digit SDs in this load. I don’t think I have the time to watch the scale for that long on a case as small as a 223. I’ve reloaded for 6.5 CM and have gotten low SDs there but that’s almost twice the powder to mask charge variations. I won’t be shooting this much last 600 or 800 yds depending on where I settle for velocity
    Your call on the seating increment but I doubt you will notice any difference between the two. My seating depth varies by upwards of .020” across large prod lots and i have yet to see any meaningful difference on target. Id just pick one (and dont spend a ton of time controlling for it either).

    Id load a mag or two up at 24.4 for your 20” rifle and start building a drop chart. Then run the same load hard in your 13.9” to stress test it. If it passes then you have a common load for both which is what you want.

    Honestly, no reason to waste time at 23g as you’re giving up velocity for no reason; the exception would be if you start seeing signs of over pressure at 24.4 then back it off .3-.4gr.

    Let the targets tell you what will work and wont. Id leave my chrono at home at this point.
     
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