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AR10 questions

mosin46

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 11, 2010
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florida 32621
thinking about an AR 10 although cost of a total package might be out of reach. i have had a few and didn't fall in love with any of them. POF was unreliable at times,dpms had poor accuracy,PSA was hit and miss quality wise. my gun budget would be about $1500 +/-. from my searching it looks like sig,S&W,springfield,savage. but i wonder whether savage not being well into the type might have some teething issues. want reliability,longevity,accuracy (min 2 moa),weight is a factor. would prefer 18" but 16" seems all the rage as done 1/10. seekins looks like the best choice and i would really prefer the 1/11 twist. 1/10 for M80 type just makes little sense to me if given a choice. that is just not happening by about $1000. no,i'm not going to build one and having 1 done likely wouldn't be much of a savings. scope,mags,ammo (other than my bolt gun match stash) would bring the total to about 2.5 K. so,just asking opinions/experience on these midprice models. tx for input.
 
For that price point of around $1K maybe a Diamond Back is your speed. I'd spend the extra money to around $2,500 and get a Black Rain Ordnance.
 
Quite a few people seem to be happy with the Sig AR10 and they are 1200ish. An Aero precision build might also be a good direction to go in and gives you future upgradability.
 
A couple places were blowing them out. I'd check the Sig 716i page on here. Also, if you call europtic they'll give you the Snipershide pricing.
 
There are deals to be had on the used market as well if you’re patient.
 
There are deals to be had on the used market as well if you’re patient.
^^^ this
Recently, OG Wilson Combat, SP10, GAP10, $2500ish any which would be levels above those ones you’ve owned IMO
 
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...I would suggest an Aero M5. If you can't find a complete rifle, there are many complete lowers and complete uppers offered so it's just a matter of slapping the upper and lower together and pushing the pins thru. In my experience, Aero M5's compatibility with "DPMS" parts & accessories has been pretty good. The difference in a 16" & 18" tube is equivalent to the 1st two knuckles of your pointing finger, not much in "length" considerations, but enough difference in achievable FPS with factory or handload ammo. The 16" models usually have a "mid-length" gas system whereas the 18" has both "mid" and "rifle length" gas systems, the rifle length is less problematic in .308/6.5CM for reliability. Accuracy is within your stated parameters, but if you decide you want more, an aftermarket barrel is easily obtained to swap out.
 
PSA AR10 for $749.98

Free shipping on both

Kit $649.99

https://palmettostatearmory.com/blem-psa-gen3-pa10-18-mid-length-308-win-1-10-stainless-steel-15-lightweight-m-lok-acs-l-2-stage-rifle-kit.html
Lower $99.99

https://palmettostatearmory.com/blem-psa-gen3-pa10-stripped-lower-receiver.html

Cheap to start and you can throw a barrel and/or trigger into it if you decide you need to without blowing too much past your $1K budget.
He already had a PA10 and is looking to upgrade.
 
If you’ve been disappointed with your previous guns, you’re going to continue to be disappointed if you buy a $1,500 AR-10. That is unfortunately still low-mid tier for that type of rifle.

I also don’t understand your attachment to a 1:11 barrel twist, wanting 2 MOA precision, and wanting to shoot M80? Get a 1:10 twist barrel and you can shoot anything that will fit in an SR-25 magazine very well. The M80 won’t know any difference. And the M80 isn’t going to get you 2 MOA.

Most of an AR-10’s accuracy is in the shooter’s skill with gas guns and in the barrel. I’d personally build one but if you’re set on buying a complete gun, focus on the barrel quality. Maybe an Aero or Sig would do you well. I wouldn’t dink around with large frame gas guns though, you’ve already had several bad experiences and you’re still in the under-budget realm of gas guns. I’d spend more or get a precision small frame gun.
 
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1/11 not hard to figure out. using M80 type loads 1/11 should,at least theoretically,give a bit more accuracy all else being =. sako and tikka seem to be fine with it. just dropping the idea due to neg experience with others could well be the thing to do. and yes all considered aero or sig looks like the best bets if i roll the dice. got 2 "small frame" ARs that i am most happy with. tx for replies.
 
He already had a PA10 and is looking to upgrade.
He said PSA was "hit-and-miss". For the price I posted he can afford to selectively upgrade parts if it turns out he needs to, Heck worst case adding a new barrel and trigger would still see him fall under his $1500 budget.

Stock they are easily capable of the 2moa target he is after and PSA will take care of any QC issues that crop up.

The kit comes with a decent Toth Tool trigger and Magpul stock.
 
If your budget is limited to $1500, Aero is the easy choice. An Aero gun will get you your 2moa and meet your budget. The good thing about Aero is the parts availability.

Low end large frames are like low end LPVO’s. People are rarely happy with them.

As I stated earlier, look on the used market and be patient. You can save and increase your budget while waiting for the right deal.
 
I agree with what was said above, but I will add one item. Get a good basic upper/lower... get a GREAT barrel (and an upgraded trigger). Consider going up a few notches on the muzzle brake as well. If all goes well, after you pull the trigger, your crosshairs should remain on the paper (at 400 yards) after the firing sequence has completed. This is one of the basic tests for if you have everything right with your gun (and how you handle it).

If the crosshairs are not still on the paper after the shot cycle has completed, you have some work to do.
 
I agree with what was said above, but I will add one item. Get a good basic upper/lower... get a GREAT barrel (and an upgraded trigger). Consider going up a few notches on the muzzle brake as well. If all goes well, after you pull the trigger, your crosshairs should remain on the paper (at 400 yards) after the firing sequence has completed. This is one of the basic tests for if you have everything right with your gun (and how you handle it).

If the crosshairs are not still on the paper after the shot cycle has completed, you have some work to do.
I note you threw it as an after thought but if the crosshairs don't settle back on target, the issue is MUCH MORE likely to be the shooter than the gun.
 
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thinking about an AR 10 although cost of a total package might be out of reach. i have had a few and didn't fall in love with any of them. POF was unreliable at times,dpms had poor accuracy,PSA was hit and miss quality wise. my gun budget would be about $1500 +/-. from my searching it looks like sig,S&W,springfield,savage. but i wonder whether savage not being well into the type might have some teething issues. want reliability,longevity,accuracy (min 2 moa),weight is a factor. would prefer 18" but 16" seems all the rage as done 1/10. seekins looks like the best choice and i would really prefer the 1/11 twist. 1/10 for M80 type just makes little sense to me if given a choice. that is just not happening by about $1000. no,i'm not going to build one and having 1 done likely wouldn't be much of a savings. scope,mags,ammo (other than my bolt gun match stash) would bring the total to about 2.5 K. so,just asking opinions/experience on these midprice models. tx for input.


This is the only way I see to achieve this given your budget:

Cheapest complete Aero Precision lower direct from their site: $370, maybe cheaper elsewhere? + shipping, FFL fee
1:11 twist .308, X-Caliber 6 groove, 18" SPR contour, rifle gas with headspaced RCA HP bolt and bolt carrier. $665 + shipping
Aero Precision M5E1 upper with 15" MLOK rail graniteridgeoutfitters $350 + shipping

Total: $1,385 - shipping and FFL fee

Still need for $115, Charging handle, gas block, tube, pin, and muzzle device + shipping

There is a post somewhere on this site about a .308 AR build using an X-Caliber barrel and all I remember is that it was a hammer. I think the user has a Ferrari emblem for thumbnail pic. Did not have 5R as an option with 1:11. I'd re-think that a bit.

This gives you a "high pressure" bolt if you want to go 6.5 Creedmoor later but for now you have less chance of cratering with a smaller diameter firing pin which is what it really means.

You have a crappy trigger and stock to upgrade if you want later. 5/8-24 A2 basic FH will be the cheapest muzzle device other than Chinese thread protector. Charging handle, AP ambi is like 80 bucks. Basic .750 gas block and rifle length tube, pin probably could get with the barrel purchase?

EDIT: No, I'm not associated with any of the above companies but have purchased from all except X-Caliber. Don't tempt me into building a 7-08 AR upper.
 
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thanks. will put all this together but not looking possible. might have to stay with 5.56 in a "defense" role.
 
I note you threw it as an after thought but if the crosshairs don't settle back on target, the issue is MUCH MORE likely to be the shooter than the gun.
Yes... thus the comment: "If the crosshairs are not still on the paper after the shot cycle has completed, you have some work to do."

I have seen very few AR-10 rifles (with a good barrel) that shoot poorly. Don't get me wrong, for some mastering the "shot cycle" on a rifle that has a moving bolt is difficult. They seem to do better shooting classical "bolt rifles". I shoot other rifles which have legendary-bad shot cycles. Those really make you work on your basics. Most novice shooters need to put a few rounds downrange to find out where their shoulder pocket (really) is. For some it is tough to master the basics, if they lack people to help them out. In some cases it is a matter of pride which holds them back.