I just encountered this. Has anyone info, experience, ideas, comments? Might like to try it.
Greg
Greg
AR15mold.com?
- Thread starter Greg Langelius *
- Start date
1st I have heard of 'pour your own' . I think if I was going that route of home build, that I would go this home-pour over the 80% lower and tool and getting anodized for a surface temper .
New forged Lowers are pretty cheep to buy and I still have a few with bcg's still in the box's not assembled . I have put quite few rounds down with polymer Lower and really they are pretty tough .
.
New forged Lowers are pretty cheep to buy and I still have a few with bcg's still in the box's not assembled . I have put quite few rounds down with polymer Lower and really they are pretty tough .
.
OK, been diggin' and diggin'; apparently the AR15mold.com folks are legit, the process works with some strong advice to pay close attention to their videos about best practices, etc., and there may be a workaround for the very high priced resins. Do not expect to get much in the way of printed instructions, they are totally geared to audio-visual presentations ala Youtube.
AR15.com thread, my main source for brain picking about this.
(Err, ahem, google Task21 resins, ah...choo!). Consensus is that it's NOT the same stuff, but some conjecture also suggests it's not a completely bad substitute, either. When working with resins, I'd surmise that the major component of design strength comes from the mold design, not the resin itself.
Task
Take some time browse the Task site, you may find some interesting info.
Apparently there are concerns about the process almost invariably leaving air bubble voids in the grip screw area, but there is apparently a fix, too.
Some folks have experimented with reinforcements, fiber additive, etc., but the folks who sell Task21 also sell a fiber reinforcement additive that looks a lot like a better approach to me. I am very leery and cautious about messing with the recommended procedures, and want to suggest that cavalierly inserting foreign objects into the mold before pouring the resin is at least as likely to result in a weaker part than a stronger one. If you're going to use a fiber additive, don't go overboard, some is better than none, and maybe also better than lots and lots. Because of relatively short pot times, it might make better sense to mix the fiber into each liquid resin component prior to mixing to pour and cure. Samesame for the dye. Carbon fiber will not work because of compatibility/wetting issues, and the provided resin is not compatible with silicone molds, likewise silicone release agents.
I'm gonna dip my toe into this one. Not cheap, Significant potential for bad pours, etc. Because of the cost, the commercial/legal aspects, and my personal desire not to give out bad scoop; I'll wait a (pretty significant, don't hold your breath type) bit before reporting further. I won't be blabbing until I have a working rifle and have evaluated it enough to give thumbs up or down. Don't be overly upset if the thumb goes down, I'm warning all of us, myself included, right now.
If this turns out feasible, remember, you can't sell these things legally, this entire process is only legit for personal consumption, only, only, only. I'm just looking to give my two orphan uppers a pair of lowers to play with out in the daylight. I will not be doing how-to's or making recommendations beyond the seller's ways of doing things. All that will be forthcoming from me personally is observations and opinions; I'll be leaving the facts to the sellers.
Did I mention they can be made in colors...?
Greg
AR15.com thread, my main source for brain picking about this.
(Err, ahem, google Task21 resins, ah...choo!). Consensus is that it's NOT the same stuff, but some conjecture also suggests it's not a completely bad substitute, either. When working with resins, I'd surmise that the major component of design strength comes from the mold design, not the resin itself.
Task
Take some time browse the Task site, you may find some interesting info.
Apparently there are concerns about the process almost invariably leaving air bubble voids in the grip screw area, but there is apparently a fix, too.
Some folks have experimented with reinforcements, fiber additive, etc., but the folks who sell Task21 also sell a fiber reinforcement additive that looks a lot like a better approach to me. I am very leery and cautious about messing with the recommended procedures, and want to suggest that cavalierly inserting foreign objects into the mold before pouring the resin is at least as likely to result in a weaker part than a stronger one. If you're going to use a fiber additive, don't go overboard, some is better than none, and maybe also better than lots and lots. Because of relatively short pot times, it might make better sense to mix the fiber into each liquid resin component prior to mixing to pour and cure. Samesame for the dye. Carbon fiber will not work because of compatibility/wetting issues, and the provided resin is not compatible with silicone molds, likewise silicone release agents.
I'm gonna dip my toe into this one. Not cheap, Significant potential for bad pours, etc. Because of the cost, the commercial/legal aspects, and my personal desire not to give out bad scoop; I'll wait a (pretty significant, don't hold your breath type) bit before reporting further. I won't be blabbing until I have a working rifle and have evaluated it enough to give thumbs up or down. Don't be overly upset if the thumb goes down, I'm warning all of us, myself included, right now.
If this turns out feasible, remember, you can't sell these things legally, this entire process is only legit for personal consumption, only, only, only. I'm just looking to give my two orphan uppers a pair of lowers to play with out in the daylight. I will not be doing how-to's or making recommendations beyond the seller's ways of doing things. All that will be forthcoming from me personally is observations and opinions; I'll be leaving the facts to the sellers.
Did I mention they can be made in colors...?
Greg
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for your entertainment
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/67...IY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_.html
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/67...IY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_.html
Oh wow. OH WOW!!!
Only ever actually got to read AR15.com this week, came up on the AR15mold search.
That Boris has an oblique way of thinking. Admire his approach. Entertaining.
But his choice of resins may be sub-optimal. His mold making system, and the concept of reinforcing the output by building up the master with clay is priceless. I may be looking for 100% lower to build on, but not in the conventional sense.
Meanwhile, the Task Resins are looking better and better. Of primary importance here is to resist going overboard.
Disappearing into non-existent basement for further thought...
Greg
Only ever actually got to read AR15.com this week, came up on the AR15mold search.
That Boris has an oblique way of thinking. Admire his approach. Entertaining.
But his choice of resins may be sub-optimal. His mold making system, and the concept of reinforcing the output by building up the master with clay is priceless. I may be looking for 100% lower to build on, but not in the conventional sense.
Meanwhile, the Task Resins are looking better and better. Of primary importance here is to resist going overboard.
Disappearing into non-existent basement for further thought...
Greg
That post by Boris was very humorous. I was happy I could find it again.
I imagine the molding project would be fun and once perfected it should be simple to make follow on receivers. I would just look at them as disposables. Run them till they crack or egg out and slap on a new one.
It might be fun for you and your granddaughter.
Good luck.
I imagine the molding project would be fun and once perfected it should be simple to make follow on receivers. I would just look at them as disposables. Run them till they crack or egg out and slap on a new one.
It might be fun for you and your granddaughter.
Good luck.
It might be at that, but I keep coming back to the transfer issue.
In her case, I think she would have to do the process herself from mold assembly, through the pour, to mold removal. She'd probably get a kick out of that, but the legalities must be observed. One thing's for damned sure; she will not be molding pink receivers.
I'm not looking for a disposable, although it might come to that. I hope to end up making my own mold, bulking up/reinforcing the master significantly, and exploring the fiber additive process.
My approach would be to make the mold from a basic standard receiver, and make a casting. Then reinforce the casting and make another mold out of that, etc. Before long, is it really still an AR? As long as it still works with a standard LPK, maybe it is. Maybe...
I really think that the AR lower design is great when working in aluminum. But I also think that a polymer lower really would need to be more properly designed with the resin working medium in mind.
I'm one of those knot heads who happily wanders off down the road to reinventing the wheel sometimes. I hate it when it does that. But learn?
LOL!
Greg
In her case, I think she would have to do the process herself from mold assembly, through the pour, to mold removal. She'd probably get a kick out of that, but the legalities must be observed. One thing's for damned sure; she will not be molding pink receivers.
I'm not looking for a disposable, although it might come to that. I hope to end up making my own mold, bulking up/reinforcing the master significantly, and exploring the fiber additive process.
My approach would be to make the mold from a basic standard receiver, and make a casting. Then reinforce the casting and make another mold out of that, etc. Before long, is it really still an AR? As long as it still works with a standard LPK, maybe it is. Maybe...
I really think that the AR lower design is great when working in aluminum. But I also think that a polymer lower really would need to be more properly designed with the resin working medium in mind.
I'm one of those knot heads who happily wanders off down the road to reinventing the wheel sometimes. I hate it when it does that. But learn?
LOL!
Greg
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Have spent many years working with plastics so have learned a little. First of all, non-reinforced plastics will never have the tensil strength of aluminum so anything beyond a disposable lower is going to have to be reinforced. There are polymer lowers available that are reinforced in critical areas and they work very well.
In addition to the reinforcement thing, plastic castings all shrink, some more then others so that needs to be considered. It is possible to eliminate air bubbles by cycling the resin through a vacuum chamber before pouring, but few home shops have vacuum chambers.
Finishing an aluminum 80% lower with a jig and drill press is not at all difficult and yields a lower identical to what can be purchased. If I had to choose one over the other, it would be the aluminum 80% route.
OFG
In addition to the reinforcement thing, plastic castings all shrink, some more then others so that needs to be considered. It is possible to eliminate air bubbles by cycling the resin through a vacuum chamber before pouring, but few home shops have vacuum chambers.
Finishing an aluminum 80% lower with a jig and drill press is not at all difficult and yields a lower identical to what can be purchased. If I had to choose one over the other, it would be the aluminum 80% route.
OFG
Reading your post, OFG, and thinking about it; you have just managed to pull me back from the precipice. What was I thinking? I even already own the drill press.
Much thanks for sharing your experience and sage advice.
My contribution to this topic is at an end.
Greg
Much thanks for sharing your experience and sage advice.
My contribution to this topic is at an end.
Greg
Maybe I'm old fashioned but this has fail written all over it.... I'm not sure what something like this is seeking to solve.
Used and highly recommend the "Broken Arms" jig along with their tooling package. Watch the video, get the aluminum angle & clamps and your drill press can crank out high quality finished aluminum lowers. Right now there are deals to be had on 80% lowers. Buy anodized lowers to bypass needing to set up for home anodizing.
OFG
OFG
