i am getting a mcmillan A4 stock, used, that is bedded by GAP for a badger recoil lug. I want to use it on my rem 700 pss that has the stock barrel/ recoil lug. down the road, i may want to rebarrel and use a badger lug. i though about milling out a piece of shim stock to take up the play for now so i can used it. any other ideas? thanks
Gunsmithing badger recoil lug question
- Thread starter oldolds442
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Re: badger recoil lug question
The extra space will be on the front side of the lug and won't affect the fit. If the previous action was trued, the face of the lug will be in a different location relative to the action screws.
Be aware that it could need to be bedded around the lug for a proper fit.
The extra space will be on the front side of the lug and won't affect the fit. If the previous action was trued, the face of the lug will be in a different location relative to the action screws.
Be aware that it could need to be bedded around the lug for a proper fit.
Re: badger recoil lug question
you are going to want to re-bed it anyways if you are taking one barreled action out and putting a different one in.
you are going to want to re-bed it anyways if you are taking one barreled action out and putting a different one in.
Re: badger recoil lug question
doesn't the recoil lug just keep the action from moving back and putting strain on the action screws under recoil? if the rear is contacting the back of the recoil lug channel, isn't it doing what its supposed to do?
doesn't the recoil lug just keep the action from moving back and putting strain on the action screws under recoil? if the rear is contacting the back of the recoil lug channel, isn't it doing what its supposed to do?
Re: badger recoil lug question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RADcustom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What would be the difference in putting an action in a stock that was previously bedded and putting one in an AICS that isn't bedded, if the lug is making contact?
Just curious. </div></div>
with an aics or any other vee block chassis, you know there is going to be contact along the bottom portion of BOTH sides of the receiver. the exact diameter of the receiver has no impact on this. it will make contact. with a stock bedded from a different receiver, you have no idea where the contact is going to be. it is possible that the only contact will be the very bottom of the receiver and it will allow it to rock side to side in the stock.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oldolds442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">doesn't the recoil lug just keep the action from moving back and putting strain on the action screws under recoil? if the rear is contacting the back of the recoil lug channel, isn't it doing what its supposed to do?
</div></div>
that is the exact job of the recoil lug. the problem is you have no idea if the lug on the old action was perfectly perpendicular to the od of the receiver. you have no idea if the new action's lug is perfectly perpendicular to the receiver. the mold is set with the existing bedding. there could only be a small portion of the new lug making contact. in the stock.
the lug and lug contact is only part of the receiver to stock fit. like i mentioned above, you also have no idea where or how much contact there is between the new receiver in a stock bedded for another.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RADcustom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What would be the difference in putting an action in a stock that was previously bedded and putting one in an AICS that isn't bedded, if the lug is making contact?
Just curious. </div></div>
with an aics or any other vee block chassis, you know there is going to be contact along the bottom portion of BOTH sides of the receiver. the exact diameter of the receiver has no impact on this. it will make contact. with a stock bedded from a different receiver, you have no idea where the contact is going to be. it is possible that the only contact will be the very bottom of the receiver and it will allow it to rock side to side in the stock.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oldolds442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">doesn't the recoil lug just keep the action from moving back and putting strain on the action screws under recoil? if the rear is contacting the back of the recoil lug channel, isn't it doing what its supposed to do?
</div></div>
that is the exact job of the recoil lug. the problem is you have no idea if the lug on the old action was perfectly perpendicular to the od of the receiver. you have no idea if the new action's lug is perfectly perpendicular to the receiver. the mold is set with the existing bedding. there could only be a small portion of the new lug making contact. in the stock.
the lug and lug contact is only part of the receiver to stock fit. like i mentioned above, you also have no idea where or how much contact there is between the new receiver in a stock bedded for another.
Re: badger recoil lug question
my only problem with a full new bedding job is what if down the road i want to install a new barrel and badger lug. i guess all you would have to to is mill the lug slot out and rebed, right?
my only problem with a full new bedding job is what if down the road i want to install a new barrel and badger lug. i guess all you would have to to is mill the lug slot out and rebed, right?
Re: badger recoil lug question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oldolds442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my only problem with a full new bedding job is what if down the road i want to install a new barrel and badger lug. i guess all you would have to to is mill the lug slot out and rebed, right? </div></div>
Dude, you're talking about a Dremel, and a beer (two if on Sunday).
Nuthin' to it.....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oldolds442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">my only problem with a full new bedding job is what if down the road i want to install a new barrel and badger lug. i guess all you would have to to is mill the lug slot out and rebed, right? </div></div>
Dude, you're talking about a Dremel, and a beer (two if on Sunday).
Nuthin' to it.....
Re: badger recoil lug question
I'm with Tripwire...but in my shop...it's a Dremel and a couple of Scotch & waters!
I have removed Devcon with the dremel on several used stocks and re-bedded new barrelled actions that shot like a dream. Getting that recoil lug perfect is a BIG deal. You can remove the action screws, turn the gun upside down and shake all you want and the barreled action won't fall out...that is what you want on a "shooter".
I'm with Tripwire...but in my shop...it's a Dremel and a couple of Scotch & waters!
I have removed Devcon with the dremel on several used stocks and re-bedded new barrelled actions that shot like a dream. Getting that recoil lug perfect is a BIG deal. You can remove the action screws, turn the gun upside down and shake all you want and the barreled action won't fall out...that is what you want on a "shooter".
Re: badger recoil lug question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBore56</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm with Tripwire...but in my shop...it's a Dremel and a couple of Scotch & waters!
Getting that recoil lug perfect is a BIG deal. You can remove the action screws, <span style="font-weight: bold">turn the gun upside down and shake all you want and the barreled action won't fall out...that is what you want on a "shooter". </span></div></div>
Debatable... And if you do this you better be damn sure the lug is perfectly flat or you will have other issues.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBore56</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm with Tripwire...but in my shop...it's a Dremel and a couple of Scotch & waters!
Getting that recoil lug perfect is a BIG deal. You can remove the action screws, <span style="font-weight: bold">turn the gun upside down and shake all you want and the barreled action won't fall out...that is what you want on a "shooter". </span></div></div>
Debatable... And if you do this you better be damn sure the lug is perfectly flat or you will have other issues.
Re: badger recoil lug question
Yeah, if your lug is flared out at the bottom, N S E or W, then it'll be a problem removing the action. But really, who with enough sense to bed a rifle properly, and a mic, wouldn't think/know to check/prevent that.
'Course a tight lug won't tolerate any junk getting in the lug recess whenever the action is out of the stock, either.
Common sense fixes most "issues" before they can become an issue.......
Yeah, if your lug is flared out at the bottom, N S E or W, then it'll be a problem removing the action. But really, who with enough sense to bed a rifle properly, and a mic, wouldn't think/know to check/prevent that.
'Course a tight lug won't tolerate any junk getting in the lug recess whenever the action is out of the stock, either.
Common sense fixes most "issues" before they can become an issue.......
