Suppressors Baffle and Endcap Concentricity

[Edsel]

I'm somewhat concerned about how my flash suppressor was installed, and would like some opinions before trying out the suppressor.

I borrowed a Geissele Suppressor Alignment Rod.

Introduced from the chamber end, it passes through the baffles, doesn't hit anything on the way out, and clears the endplate.

I guess it falls between A. Complete Pass and B. Partial Fail.

Here are some pictures to illustrate; there's more clearance on one side.

A bit exaggerated by the angle of the shot...

It almost looks like the rod is touching the endplate in this shot, but it isn't; but I won't deny it's close.

Would it be safe to fire the rifle with the suppressor?

 

[Edsel]

Bump!

 

[Jig Stick]

Take the bolt out of the gun. Look down through the action, through the barrel, and through the suppressor. If you see only daylight I would feel better about it. But I agree, it is close. Are you sure its the quick attach? Do you have access to a lathe to check run out on the barrel, and then again with the suppressor attached?

The center bore of my Specwar 7.62 was noticeably off the center access of the suppressor, but when attached to my rifle via the quick attach mount, runout was between 2-5 thousandths. I shot it, and it was fine.

here is a link to my thread. Not sure its applicable, but it will give you an idea of what I was dealing with when coming to alignment.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-suppressors/259769-normal-suppressor.html

PS I did not have access to that alignment rod that you do.

 

[HKschalldampfer]

It appears to be an LWRC and a surefire socom. If I'm correct I haven't heard of LWRC having any barrel concentricity issues and Surefire makes quality suppressors. That being said I would check the FH is indexing off of the barrel threads and not the shoulder. If it's indexing off the shoulder it can cause misalignment. I would say shoot it but at the same time that's a huge investment to risk a potential baffle strike. Peace of mind is priceless and I recommend taking it to a qualified smith and having it checked properly.

 

[itieknots7]

Is the rod long enough to be supported enough by the barrel. It appears to be sticking too far out and gravity is pulling it down.

I have both the 5.56 & 7.62 Geissele alignment rods, as well as Surefire SOCOM suppressors and none of mine are that close.

 

[jasonfaz]

Which mount are you using? Curious if you had your barrel threaded to Surefire's specs or if you just installed on factory threads? Using any shims or a crush washer?

 

[Edsel]

Are you sure its the quick attach?

You're right, it could be the barrel; I couldn't really be certain - but LWRC historically has had pretty good stuff.

It appears to be an LWRC and a surefire socom...

... Peace of mind is priceless...

Yes.

I think I'll end up replacing the flash hider, for that reason.

Is the rod long enough to be supported enough by the barrel.

It isn't that long, but it's snug enough to not allow any play but permit sliding; it's caliber - specific, Geissele made it that way.

 

[Edsel]

Which mount are you using? Curious if you had your barrel threaded to Surefire's specs or if you just installed on factory threads? Using any shims or a crush washer?

It's a Surefire SF3P-762-5/8-24.

Not using a Crush Washer, just the spacers supplied.

The barrel is pre - threaded by LWRC, typical AR - 10 thread...

 

[HKschalldampfer]

I wouldn't start replacing components without getting the barrel checked first. If you're going to drop money on another FH I think a better investment would be on a gunsmith with a lathe.

 

[Fungun]

Baffle and Endcap Concentricity

Contact LWRC customer service. They probably will take care of it without you spending money on a smith. No issues with Ldubs and SOCOM's here

 

[itieknots7]

It isn't that long, but it's snug enough to not allow any play but permit sliding; it's caliber - specific, Geissele made it that way.

I realize how they work. I own both.

My point being some of your photos that are showing the worst alignment, you have the rod sticking pretty far out. It's probably just the depth of field in your photos. But it wouldn't be the first time operator error is to blame.

With everything else accounted for, I second getting the barrel checked.

Good luck.

 

[Edsel]

Just an update:

Swapped the Flash Hider out, got the proper concentricity, fired 50 shots through the Suppressor this afternoon...

No baffle strikes.

*** whew ***

 

[jasonfaz]

It's a Surefire SF3P-762-5/8-24.

Not using a Crush Washer, just the spacers supplied.

The barrel is pre - threaded by LWRC, typical AR - 10 thread...

Perfect. So I've personally been through this excercise 7 or 8 times with brake attach cans. Randall Rausch at AR15barrels.com will cut, re-thread, and crown your barrel while also ensuring your threads are threaded to Surefire's thread specs and guarantee your brake indexes perfectly. That will equate to damn near perfect concentricity and mitigate as much coaxial variation as possible. It's a whopping $75 to get that done. Clearly, that is well worth the investment noting the $1k+ you spent on the can and FH. That's what I'd do. Call LWRC if you want, but they are under zero obligation to thread their barrels to random suppressor MFGer's specs - all which vary ever so slightly. That minute difference can be night and day when you're behind the rifle. I can vouch 100% for the quality of work he puts out. Top notch for sure.