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Have 2 of the dakota silencer varmiters ( a 3.0 and a 4.0). The 4.0 is the banish 30 about 4 months after I ordered my 4.0 they changed the names for branding purposes. That said they are decent but I'll take my tbac everyday over them and I would actually buy an otter creek lab can before them as well. For the money there are better performers
Was there something specific you were wondering about?
Was there something specific you were wondering about?
I've had my Banish 30 for a couple of years and like it. The accuracy has been good on the various rifles I've shot it. I've always used it with the extension installed for the maximum sound reduction, but its nice to have the option to shorten the can if needed.
I've got two TBAC 30p-1's and a Varminter 3.0.
I actually prefer the Varminter 3.0 over the TBAC's.
https://pewscience.com/
Sub par performance compared to competitors. The ratings below have the S & L configurations listed.
The gold is quite a bit better but at its 8.2" length it's performance is only on par with or slightly quieter the top performing 6.5-6.75" silencers such as the Helios qd ti and Enticer S ti. It's price is also outrageous.
30p-1 tbac is about 15 year old design and tech.
I had my old 30ba recored to the Ultra stack, and it was like a whole nother level of sound suppression.
I'd be interested to hear if anyone prefers the Banish over the tbac Ultra and current line of cans
You talking about the guy who got pissed that his can blew-out because he shot 9mm through his .30 caliber Banish rifle suppressor? I remember that one...
I don’t have a bannish, almost bought one. I do have a centerfire can you can disassemble and will never own another.
Just looking at buying my first one. Want to use it on both my 308 and 6.5 and would like it to be user servicable.
Why do you want it to be serviceable?
The Helios is for 5.56 and Im looking for something I can use for both .308 and 6.5 and Im not spending $1600 on one.https://pewscience.com/
Sub par performance compared to competitors. The ratings below have the S & L configurations listed.
The gold is quite a bit better but at its 8.2" length it's performance is only on par with or slightly quieter the top performing 6.5-6.75" silencers such as the Helios qd ti and Enticer S ti. It's price is also outrageous.
Well how do you think you clean out all the carbon that accumulates with these?
I don't. Because in center fire rifle cans, carbon accumulation is not an issue, atleast not one that 99.98% civilian population will get the round count through in it's service life. This is not a rimfire can.
Serviceable center fire cans are a solution looking for a problem.
well documented how to clean them...
Pretty sure its in every page for TBAC cans
Get a TBAC and don't look back
I got sold on a "serviceable" center fire can years ago and now I'm stuck with two Templar Tactical Crux 30s
Any 30 cal tbac can will do just fine with 6.5 manbun shot through it
Yes I am. New to this.
Nobody is that stupid... If you can use a suppressor on a .30 (.308") caliber rifle, you can certainly use it on a SMALLER 6.5mm (.264" diameter bore) rifle.
Just to break it down even simpler for you... ANY/ALL .30 caliber centerfire rifle suppressor will work on a 6.5mm rifle.
User-serviceable on a centerfire rifle suppressor is a gimmick and pointless.
Modular rifle cans are also kind of a gimmick. They work, but only if you plan on buying just 1 rifle suppressor and never buying more...Which pretty much never happens. 9/10 times you end up buying more.
I know nothing about these things. That's why I'm asking. Is that how you normally talk to people asking questions?
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You don't understand basic math... That .264" is smaller than .308", therefore you can use something larger on something smaller as well?
No, you're right, I don't. Because I don't normally have discussions with people who are looking to buy Federally-regulated NFA items that can't even do basic math, and have no basic concept of bullet caliber size ratios.
You're trolling. Go play a victim somewhere else.
Thanks. I didn't know if you could use the .308 and 6.5 in the same one.
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Yes and no. You can shoot a 6.5mm through a .30 caliber suppressor, but you CANNOT shoot a .30 caliber rifle through a 6.5mm suppressor.
If you want dual-purpose, get a .30 caliber suppressor.
Does that clear things up?
The Helios has a bore that can fit a 338 Lapua through it.
It is the best performing 6-7" silencer on 308 tested by pewscience. The rankings screenshot I took all of the rankings were based on a 20" 308.
The info is there for you to read. At ear and muzzle rankings. You're free to use the data to make purchasing decisions.
If you want a 6-7" lightweight suppressor for 6.5 and 308 I would recommend the Helios QD Ti, Enticer S ti and Nomad ti. The Helios being my personal favorite but all 3 of those despite being over 2" shorter are quieter than the banish 30 in its 9" configuration.
If you don't care about length the CGS Hyperion would be my choice.
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Thanks so much. Love that 9 oz weight of the Nomad ti. and Enticer s ti. I may go with the Enticer. It's a couple hundred cheaper.
I have a Banish 30. First can I bought. Used it with rimfire up through .308. Fully titanium. No fancy mount options, however. Made by Mack Bros in SD. I like it, but am looking for a can with faster mount options.
I think focusing on pure dB reduction is a mistake…you should be wearing ear pro regardless of using a can or not. The reduction in the shockwave, for me, is key. After one reaches decent performance other factors become more important, like length, ease of attachment, weight, mag dump durability for the hi-speed folks, what works better in the semis, etc.
There’s always people that say you don’t have to clean centerfire cans. There’s a thread here, I think this one, that had pleanty of guys that had suppressors filling up with carbon (weigh before and after) which results in decreased noise suppression, and possibly other stuff.
What problems? Problems like carbon failing back into the muzzle and into the barrel when having the gun vertical. Carbon chunks are hard, bullets are fast, bores get scratched is the theory…makes sense to me, but I have no proof of it causes issues. Can’t see how it would be good.
And if you’re on this forum, you might shoot more than 99.8% of people? Or will shoot more?
I say if you buy a sealed can, check into the manufacturer’s cleaning policies. I think TBAC gives you one free cleaning per suppressor per year. Suppressor cleaning sucks, and that’s why I’m leaning towards a sealed can and having someone else do it for me lol. Currently with my Banish 30 and Banish 223 I use a Franklin tumbler with SS pins, Dawn, and Lemi Shine. Don’t clean like me with a sealed can! Pins will get stuck in there.
P.S. all suppressor companies seem to hate each other (more than usual). TBAC makes good stuff, but their fanbois rival Nightforce’s. If someone can’t say anything critical about a product, grain of salt time.
I think focusing on pure dB reduction is a mistake…you should be wearing ear pro regardless of using a can or not. The reduction in the shockwave, for me, is key. After one reaches decent performance other factors become more important, like length, ease of attachment, weight, mag dump durability for the hi-speed folks, what works better in the semis, etc.
There’s always people that say you don’t have to clean centerfire cans. There’s a thread here, I think this one, that had pleanty of guys that had suppressors filling up with carbon (weigh before and after) which results in decreased noise suppression, and possibly other stuff.
What problems? Problems like carbon failing back into the muzzle and into the barrel when having the gun vertical. Carbon chunks are hard, bullets are fast, bores get scratched is the theory…makes sense to me, but I have no proof of it causes issues. Can’t see how it would be good.
And if you’re on this forum, you might shoot more than 99.8% of people? Or will shoot more?
I say if you buy a sealed can, check into the manufacturer’s cleaning policies. I think TBAC gives you one free cleaning per suppressor per year. Suppressor cleaning sucks, and that’s why I’m leaning towards a sealed can and having someone else do it for me lol. Currently with my Banish 30 and Banish 223 I use a Franklin tumbler with SS pins, Dawn, and Lemi Shine. Don’t clean like me with a sealed can! Pins will get stuck in there.
P.S. all suppressor companies seem to hate each other (more than usual). TBAC makes good stuff, but their fanbois rival Nightforce’s. If someone can’t say anything critical about a product, grain of salt time.
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Also, Silencer Central is a weird company. They include a fairly useless trust with the silencer. Have a lawyer (internet or in person) draw one up so you get what you want/need and they can explain stuff to you. SC couldn’t explain anything about their trust at the time I bought mine.
SC also makes you wait for about a month after you’ve been cleared to own before they ship it to you…I think they are unique in the shipping department as I don’t believe anyone else ships suppressors to your door but them. So maybe that’s good if you live in Timbuktu?
In general, I think SilencerShop is way better, with more professional customer service, and their kiosks are nice. Your suppressor hangs out at your local gun shop until you’ve cleared. But if you catch SC at a gun show they do the fingerprints etc right there (like the SS kiosk).
I also think Hansohn Bros and Capitol Armory are great places to buy as well.
SC also makes you wait for about a month after you’ve been cleared to own before they ship it to you…I think they are unique in the shipping department as I don’t believe anyone else ships suppressors to your door but them. So maybe that’s good if you live in Timbuktu?
In general, I think SilencerShop is way better, with more professional customer service, and their kiosks are nice. Your suppressor hangs out at your local gun shop until you’ve cleared. But if you catch SC at a gun show they do the fingerprints etc right there (like the SS kiosk).
I also think Hansohn Bros and Capitol Armory are great places to buy as well.
As mentioned, get the 30P-1 recored, it will be like getting a new can without the tax stamp. I was against the costs until I found a 50% cert in the px and used that towards it.
This page seems to indicate they ship only to Texas residents. With other states they ship to the buyer’s FFL. But perhaps I am wrong.
My SiCo Harvester was recored due to carbon buildup. It was almost 8oz heavier than when it was new. I also know of a few TBAC cans that were recored due to the same issue. They were so full you could no longer see the baffles. Several CLR baths just could not get the carbon out at that level of buildup. The ability to clean a suppressor is important, whether chemically or by taking it apart. Some powders create far more buildup than others. Superformance and RL16 are a few that come to mind.
Only consideration between Nomad ti and Enticer ti is that the nomad has less back pressure. This is only a concern on semi autos. If it's on bolt guns the Enticer would be my choice if you don't want to spend Helios money.
BTW if you want a take-apart can, here is the running list of user -serviceable suppressors that I've been updating each year since 2019. Last update was Feb, 23 2021:
www.snipershide.com
Centerfire cans are colored red.
Suppressors - List of user serviceable center-fire suppressors?
I know many people say that center-fire suppressors are self-cleaning, but I figure this is a subject worth investigating. I’ve seen a few center-fire examples packed full; I’m sure that was after tens of thousands of rounds, but I’m a prairie dog shooter that sends lots of rounds down range...
www.snipershide.com Centerfire cans are colored red.
Out of 80 bajillion cans, we may have done this a couple times. Not typical at all. We're talking over 3/4ths of a pound of carbon in there. If you keep the accumulation to 4 ounces or less it's easy to clean.
I have a Banish 30. Somehow I broke one of the tabs on one of the baffles. Not sure how. I emailed the company to see about a replacement for it without a single reply. I'd like to see better customer service before recommending.
Did you email silence central or Mack bros. Unless something changed any and all repair or replacement work comes from Mack bros as stated in the paper work. Again things may have changed but thats what it has been precisely since Mack bros makes the cans for them.
As an aside. The shaddy customer service and support once they have your money is one of the reasons I try to steer people away from them these days.
This is the issue with new and small can companies and why I'd never recommend one. Luckily my TTF can hasn't cracked yet but when it does I will have a $800 paper weight.
Been there, done that. Supported a can company on the front end and early. Luckily the cost was pretty minimal. I've got two of them, I use them just as hard and carefree as the others but I always use a mirage cover. To protect me from the flying bits of titanium when it does let go
Just cleaned my Banish 30 (and Banish 223) after way too long. Silencer Central sells this nifty baffle jack tool that helped me get the baffles out.
The cleaning:
Banish 223
Banish 30. This was harder as I really neglected cleaning for a few years. I did it a little differently:
The cleaning:
Banish 223
- Unscrew end cap
- Baffle jack baffles out
- Dump baffles into Franklin tumbler with Dawn and Lemi Shine for 6 hrs
- Used brass brush to clean stubborn deposits (didn’t work)
- CLR soak for 3 days
- Wiped out, a little brass brush to get a little stubborn carbon off
- Back into the Franklin tumbler for three hours
- Used brush to clean tube interior
Banish 30. This was harder as I really neglected cleaning for a few years. I did it a little differently:
- Unscrew the front extension off the main B30 (was stuck, needed two strap wrenches) and screw it back together
- Plug muzzle end, soak the B30 in CLR for three days, drain and flush
- Take extension back off
- Baffle jack that bitch (they were in there too tight, hence the CLR)
- Wipe all the baffles off (carbon and rimfire lead, most came off)
- Use a brass brush to get stubborn carbon off
- Pick out a wee bit of some firmly attached lead
- Screw extension back on
- Take muzzle cap off (no problem)
- Baffle jacked the baffles out of the extension and cleaned them
- Finally cleanup in Franklin tumbler with Dawn and Lemi Shine
- Used brush to clean tube interior
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This is not the first I’ve heard of Silencer Central being shady or shitty. Plus that whole “ship to your door” thing has gotten quite a few cans stolen (“misplaced”
) by shipping employees and porch pirates over the years. Not really a fan of that whole idea since I trust most people about as far as I could pick them up and throw them. No first-hand experience, but I won’t deal with them. Just my personal opinion. Even with the recent website issues and the ATF creating some new BS issues with the eForms, Silencer Shop has always been really good to me. So I’ll keep using them, and recommending them.
I just emailed Silence Central thinking they would point me where I needed to go... ill look up Mack Bros and reach out directly to them. Thanks for the direction!
How did you break a tab off? There’s a notch, and the “tab” is shown below.
I would think if you broke a tab, the whole baffle would be toast. The tab is not free-standing. The only way to damage it would be to grind it off, as there are zero ways to bend it (without bending the entire baffle itself).
There are a few non-tabbed baffles up in the extension. Sure you’re not thinking about those?
Edit: just look at that fucking clean baffle! So much work. Lol
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The tab that goes into that notch broke on one of the baffles. Therefore that single baffle now can spin freely and doesn't align to the rest of the baffles. I don't know how the tab broke. I took the can apart to clean it and noticed it was missing when I went to put it back together.
Take a pic. I’d like to see what you mean.
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