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Barrel Break In - How Important is it?

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Sergeant
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Minuteman
    • Nov 9, 2011
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    So Cal
    Does anyone have advice on barrel break in? I like Accuracy Systems and they have a whole section on breaking a barrel in. Is it that important? Does it make a difference? Here's what Accuracy Systems suggests, (and I respect what they say).

    Thank you for you purchase of an Accuracy Systems Barrel Conversion. While all of our barrels are of high quality, a new barrel will shoot best if careful attention is given to proper break-in. The bore of your new barrel has "pores" and as you break in the barrel these "pores" are smoothed over. A smooth barrel always cleans up better than one that isn't.

    Equipment needed: 1.Purchase 2 or 3 Hoppe's Bore Snakes suitable for the caliber of your rifle.
    2.Cleaning & Polishing compound to be used: Brownells JB Bore Compound (you can get this product by calling Brownells @ 1-800-741-0015) we recommend using this for the entire break in and after the break in it can be used as a barrel cleaner.
    3.Automotive Brake Parts cleaner (For cleaning the Bore Snakes for reuse)
    Break-In Procedures: 1.Clean barrel after each 3 shot group for the first 60 shots or more if needed. Use one of the Bore snakes with the JB Bore Compound mentioned above. Put the compound in bush area of the snake. Pull the bore snake through the rifle from chamber to muzzle 3 times. Follow that up by pulling the clean, dry, second snake through 2 more times. We also recommend 0000 steel wool wrapped around the brush area only this will help lap the barrel even further reducing fouling and speeding the barrel break in. Make sure you use the JB Compound liberally on the steel wool! It is not needed behind the brush area.
    2.Check to see if there is any visible copper fouling. The barrel will have an orange or brown tint inside the barrel if it is fouled. If copper is visible in the barrel a copper solvent will be needed.
    NOTE: If Bore snake is used for different chemicals make SURE to completely clean it with the brake cleaner to remove any cleaning solvent from step 1 before using the copper solvent! Mixing of chemicals could have an adverse effect on the barrel. Three bore snakes are recommended for ease of break in. After brake cleaner has been applied to the bore snake, wring it out to remove the excessive brake cleaner. You may have to repeat this process until the snake is completely clean. Allow the bore snake to dry out. It should evaporate with in about 15 minutes in direct sun light.
    3.Take one of the clean dry bore snakes, soak with copper solvent, and run it through the rifle from chamber to muzzle 3 times and let sit for about 10 minutes. Follow that up by pulling the clean, dry, snake through 3 times more. REPEAT TILL ALL COPPER IS GONE!
    4.For the next 30 shots, Clean the barrel after each 3 shot group following the above initial break in procedures. The Barrel should be finished with the break in process after 90 rounds. However if you still notice fouling you may have to continue the process until fouling is at a minimum.
    5.Revert to your normal cleaning schedule. Make sure to continue to always clean your barrel during and after each outing to insure the optimum accuracy out of your rifle.
    **The beauty of brake parts cleaner verses Gun Scrubber™ is that the brake cleaner can be found at any automotive store at ½ the cost of the Gun Scrubber™. Brake parts cleaner works just as well and dries just as fast.

    Thank you, Accuracy Systems Inc.
     
    Well that's a method I've never heard before but they know there barrels better than any one else and they know what it needs better than any one. I would just go ahead and do it to avoid any problems in the future
     
    I would never do any of that.... Steel wool really.

    Shoot it as normal, cleaning when you get home and don't use anything harsher than Shooter's Choice.

    Steel wool in your bore.... Please. Stupidest break in recommendation ever.
     
    wow out of 100 ways i ve read about breaking in barrel i must say this the first time i saw that method above. i only do shot 7-10 clean after every shot.follow shot 3 then clean, shoot 5 clean DONE! and start enjoy shooting...for 10 shot is enough to lap whatever reamer left over...i dont think barrel life maybe accuracy rely on breaking in
     
    Lowlight said:
    I would never do any of that.... Steel wool really.

    Shoot it as normal, cleaning when you get home and don't use anything harsher than Shooter's Choice.

    Steel wool in your bore.... Please. Stupidest break in recommendation ever.
    Click to expand...

    I'm glad you said it and not me. I cleaned my barrel...uh...well, it's been awhile. If and when I do clean it, I doubt that steel wool will be involved.
     
    6. If copper fouling is still present, wrap 60 grit sandpaper around snake and run it from chamber to muzzle as many times as needed until bullets no longer really touch bore. This will ensure that no copper fouling occurs in subsequent shooting sessions.
     
    wfjames22 said:
    6. If copper fouling is still present, wrap 60 grit sandpaper around snake and run it from chamber to muzzle as many times as needed until bullets no longer really touch bore. This will ensure that no copper fouling occurs in subsequent shooting sessions.
    Click to expand...

    lmao
    is there # 7 method?
     
    On a factory barrel, I clean it before I shoot it, and I, um, shoot it. On a custom barrel, I clean it before I shoot it, to get the machining residue out. Then I shoot it once and patch it out, and continue to do so until no copper shows. On Kreiger barrels, this usually takes between 5 and 8 shots. Steel wool will never be involved! This is more than most do, and I don't really know if its necessary. Lightman
     
    #7
    Fire one round of one caliber up in size through your bore, for example, if your breaking in a 6mm barrel fire one round with a 7mm bullet
     
    Last edited:
    Go to the accuracy systems inc web site and they claim that not following their procedures will harm a new barrel and failure to follow these directions will void the warranty in accuracy.

    To break in a barrel;

    1. Take rifle to range
    2. Shoot rifle until you run out of rounds or money
    3. Put rifle back in case and go home - congrats, you have now "broke in" the barrel
     
    Lowlight said:
    Somebody check, I think this might be from the Onion ... Cause it can't be for real.
    Click to expand...
    I hear that my barrel steel has pores.... That's why I swab with Clearasil.

    Seriously, I wouldn't get an abrasive near my chamber and I wouldn't put steel wool in my barrel.

    Thanks for the warning about Accuracy Systems, whoever they are, because they don't have a clue.
     
    Last edited:
    ARE you Kidding? I'm confused by several parts of the original post, that have not already been covered. "And I respect what they say", that too must be a joke. Why would any procedure require 3 round (or any number more than one) between initial cleanings? If 50,000 psi can't help rip a chunk of copper jacket off a bullet the first time, what makes you think a couple of more will- help? More great barrels are destroyed forever by two things: crazy cleaning techniques, and over-cleaning, this crap advice includes both! If you're dead set on a "special break in" go up several of the noted barrel makers sites, read all of them carefully, afterwards, you'll most likely give the new tube a good cleaning out-to insure any shipping grease etc. isn't in the tube, then go the range and shoot the rifle, clean as necessary, not because some guy says: you should do this or that, how could they know what you're shooting, how fast between rounds, etc.?
     
    Check out their web site and select the barrel break in tab. After the example of the OP they describe how the warranty for their barrel may be void if the owner does not follow these steps.
     
    I've heard you sh°uld fill the barrel with steel sh°t and push them out with blanks till the rifling is almost barely visible. Guarantees that it won't deform the jacket of the bullet. Not only does it make it more accurate, but it gives a 16% better BC and 213fps faster speeds. ^On top of that if you follow that procedure your testosterone levels increase 400%, your hair grows back, you gain up to 6in vertically, 5in horizontally, and you win the lottery along with the Bunny Ranch. You'll score 110 out of a 100 possible hits at all your match's. 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed or your money back. Limited Lifetime warranty *`‘’



    Now top that break in procedure.




    *Warning results may vary wildly.

    ^The FDA has not proven these statements to be accurate.

    `User assumes all risk no guarantees or warranties are expressed or implied.

    ‘’ look closer, think dirty, and laugh. If you didn't laugh then have a few more

    ° Retard magnets don't get caught staring at these but proper placement at work with retard magnets of odd shit make a fun day
     
    Here's the one I always post:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg


    FYI: This new forum is pretty frickin' awesome. Just paste the Youtube link in the post and it'll automatically embed it!


    Oh, and barrel break in is a bunch of hokey. Gale McMillan himself admits that a buddy of his started the elaborate barrel break-in fad as a way to get people to burn up barrels faster. It seems the folks recommending this procedure to the OP is taking this to a whole new level.

    Step 8: Place an order for another barrel....
     
    This is some great stuff someone should wright a barrel break in manual with all the above info and sell it for about 100 bucks a copy this is priceless info gathered over the years
     
    Lowlight said:
    I would never do any of that.... Steel wool really.

    Shoot it as normal, cleaning when you get home and don't use anything harsher than Shooter's Choice.

    Steel wool in your bore.... Please. Stupidest break in recommendation ever.
    Click to expand...

    ^^^^^^
    X2

    I have tried all the hocus-pocus magic voodoo break-ins and none of them make a difference. In fact excessive cleaning seems to make things worse. I found the best way is shoot it, dont shoot it really hot and clean it when you get home. Nuthin_Fancy needed!
     
    IMO I just shoot 3-4 rounds and clean with wipe out and rem squeegee. Repeat 3-4 times. I do this during the first part of my OCW load workup. By the time I find the max charge and get the rifle sighted in the barrel is broken in (I use Brux or Kreiger depending on who has the shortest wait both are cut rifled) My next barrel (Brux) will be Salt bath Nitrited so I wont be doing any break in procedure. I also coat all my bullets with HBN now. I don't typically clean my precision rigs very often any more maybe every 50 rounds witch is still probably over kill.

    I would say try not to get it too hot till the first couple of cleaning. I have discovered the cooler I keep barrel the longer then last me as a general rule.

    IMO with high end fully lapped barrel I think people clean/break in too much as opposed to not enough.


    Edit:

    Not sure about using HBN AND a SBN barrel so I will likely stop using the HBN in my boomers just in my AR.
     
    Last edited:
    Go to the technical section of Accurate Shooter.com. There is a great article on barrel break in procedures from most of the custom barrel manufacturers. I think you will be really surprised as to what is really needed. It has saved me a shit load of time!
     
    When I get a new match barrel .I usually shoot 5-10 rounds.Cleaning after every round with Butch's Bore Shine.I fire 5 more then clean again with Butch's.I dry patch then Put some Sweets 7.62 on Patch and check if I have any copper in barrel.Most of my match barrel's show no sign of copper after 5 or 6 rounds.I would never put anything stainless or steel wool in a hand lapped match barrel.

    Regards,Mike
     
    If the produce a barrel that needs that done, in order to shoot well, then they need to start making better barrels.
     
    this is from bartlein barrels page:

    Break in and Cleaning



    The age old question, "Breaking in the New Barrel". Opinions very a lot here, and this is a very subjective topic. For the most part, the only thing you are breaking in, is the throat area of the barrel. The nicer the finish that the Finish Reamer or Throating Reamer leaves, the faster the throat will break in.

    Shoot one round and clean for the first two rounds individually. Look to see what the barrel is telling you. If I'm getting little to no copper out of it, I sit down and shoot the gun. Say 4 - 5 round groups and then clean. If the barrel cleans easily and shoots well, we consider it done.

    If the barrel shows some copper or is taking a little longer to clean after the first two, shoot a group of 3 rounds and clean. Then a group of 5 and clean.

    After you shoot the 3rd group and 5th group, watch how long it takes to clean. Also notice your group sizes. If the group sizes are good and the cleaning is getting easier or is staying the same, then shoot 4 - 5 round groups.

    If fouling appears to be heavy and taking a while to clean, notice your group sizes. If group sizes are good and not going sour, you don't have a fouling problem. Some barrels will clean easier than others. Some barrels may take a little longer to break in. Remember the throat. Fouling can start all the way from here. We have noticed sometimes that even up to approximately 100 rounds, a barrel can show signs of a lot of copper, but it still shoots really well and then for no apparent reason, you will notice little to no copper and it will clean really easy.

    This is meant as guide lines only. There is no hard and fast rule for breaking in a barrel.
     
    Temp9 said:
    Here's the one I always post:

    FYI: This new forum is pretty frickin' awesome. Just paste the Youtube link in the post and it'll automatically embed it!


    Oh, and barrel break in is a bunch of hokey. Gale McMillan himself admits that a buddy of his started the elaborate barrel break-in fad as a way to get people to burn up barrels faster. It seems the folks recommending this procedure to the OP is taking this to a whole new level.

    Step 8: Place an order for another barrel....
    Click to expand...

    Agreed. Let's get the google search back up and running and it'll be perfect!
     
    I'm busting a gut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If any of you guys do that to one of our barrels I'll beat you over the head with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'll add to the humor! Had a customer take a cordless drill on high speed (around 2000rpm) chucked on a wooden shaft and wrapped emery cloth or steel wool around the end of it. Then he proceeded to clean the carbon build up out of the throat of the chamber. Was worried about the carbon ring. He wrecked a min. of two if not three barrels. First blamed us for bad steel that the barrel was pushing metal. Then he blamed the gunsmith for using a dull reamer. How did we find out? The gunsmith saw him doing it to another barrel at a benchrest match. You gotta love it. $6000+ bucks into the gun and wrecks multiple barrels.

    Later, Frank
    Bartlein Barrels
     
    Frank Green said:
    I'm busting a gut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If any of you guys do that to one of our barrels I'll beat you over the head with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'll add to the humor! Had a customer take a cordless drill on high speed (around 2000rpm) chucked on a wooden shaft and wrapped emery cloth or steel wool around the end of it. Then he proceeded to clean the carbon build up out of the throat of the chamber. Was worried about the carbon ring. He wrecked a min. of two if not three barrels. First blamed us for bad steel that the barrel was pushing metal. Then he blamed the gunsmith for using a dull reamer. How did we find out? The gunsmith saw him doing it to another barrel at a benchrest match. You gotta love it. $6000+ bucks into the gun and wrecks multiple barrels.

    Later, Frank
    Bartlein Barrels
    Click to expand...

    Well...did he get the carbon ring out? ;)
     
    I have done break in, and no break in. I learned that break in wasted an afternoon, used about 75 rounds, and decreased the life of my barrel's throat by about 75 rounds. In a 300 win mag, that 75 rounds is a significant expense in throat erosion.

    I no longer go through a long, tedious break in. For a new barrel, I Clean, shoot about 10 rounds to zero scope, clean again, and break in is finished.
     
    Clean once before first shot.
    Clean after every shot.
    If, after any of the shots, a patch does not come out completely white, continue the process of cleaning between every shot. Most barrels will take around 2,000-5,000 cleanings to be broken in properly.
     
    Unknown said:
    I have done break in, and no break in. I learned that break in wasted an afternoon, used about 75 rounds, and decreased the life of my barrel's throat by about 75 rounds. In a 300 win mag, that 75 rounds is a significant expense in throat erosion.

    I no longer go through a long, tedious break in. For a new barrel, I Clean, shoot about 10 rounds to zero scope, clean again, and break in is finished.
    Click to expand...

    I did the same break in with a .22-250 when I was 18 and first found out about breaking a barrel in, definitely wasted an afternoon and never done it since. I clean the barrel when I get a new rifle, go shooting for the afternoon and clean it when I get home.
     
    Honestly I've never bothered with any break it procedures whatsoever, just don't believe it it. Never had any problems.
     
    Personally, if I have a new rifle, I just shoot it and punch the bore after each five rounds until I hit about 30 or so rounds through the bore. I think everyone has their own way of doing this, but don't really know for sure if any one way is that much better than any other. JMHO.
     
    In all seriousness since the thread is still going. I use a jag and run smooth coat from sentry down the barrel a few times, then follow up with the bp2000 powder till its smooth and a nice dull silver all the way down. Then I shoot, and shoot some more. I clean when the rifle gets wet with a bore snake and then put a little more smooth cote, and the powder back in the barrel. So far so good and I don't have a reason to change it.
     
    This is the coolest thread! I got to hear the harmonics man! When I hear the harmonics, I know it will be right.
     
    Yes and no. The question about why don't they make better barrels is at the heart of this. Some do, and they cost more because of it. Most assembly line factory rifle makers cut costs by sourcing barrels that don't have the interior finishing the more expensive one do.

    Where is the difference, and how does it impact accuracy/fouling? The better barrels employ a final process that hones the bore interior. This reduces fouling, but the same effect results from the first series of shots; how many depends on metallurgy and the degree of care that went into the mechanical work that produced the bore. Almost all barrels also have some roughness left over from the throating process, and it's probable that this remains in all of them. Again, shooting will remedy this, how many; same comment as above.

    For a premium barrel, I clean before starting, then shoot as normal, cleaning when I'm done. For the others, I could employ a more rigorous cleaning regimen, but I don't.

    My customary barrel initialization (note: I said nothing about break-in) involves pressure testing and fireforming prior to load development. Once that is done, I clean thoroughly and begin load development. I figure any needed break-in has completed itself by then, and that attempting load development before then is probably a waste.

    Please note that for factory rifles, at least one shot is fired at the factory, and they usually don't clean them before or afterwards. This means you'll usually get out a bunch of factory dust/grit/filings, plus some carbon/copper fouling when you clean before starting, and that nobody gets a virgin barrel on a factory rifle.

    Capice?

    Greg
     
    Last edited:
    The only difference I have ever been able to document in the initial stages of barrel life was a stabilization of velocity. I've only seen it with a couple barrels as well. Basically, it was a reduction of SD and ES with a given starting load after about 30 rounds. Not a major difference but it is there in black and white. I've tried a couple different break in methods and have seen no advantage from them so I pretty much follow Greg's method (fireform/pressure test then clean) and build my loads from there.
     
    Lowlight said:
    I would never do any of that.... Steel wool really.

    Shoot it as normal, cleaning when you get home and don't use anything harsher than Shooter's Choice.

    Steel wool in your bore.... Please. Stupidest break in recommendation ever.
    Click to expand...

    This. Shoot, go home 'n clean. Then go shoot some more.

    I knew a knucklehead who did the shoot one then clean process. Totally superstitious about it. Was using an el cheapo factory Remington 223 he bought on sale, and had his one piece 20MOA scope base on backwards.

    There's other things I'd rather work on to improve how my gun shoots.
     
    Last edited:
    I have tried the more common shoot and clean for about 50 rounds and I have just zeroed in and shot. With the best quality barrels, and there are several, the no break in and shoot did just as well as the break in procedure. My two most accurate rifles have a Criterion prefit and a Kreiger. Neither had any special break in and both shoot lights out. Each one has about 1200 rounds on it. I clean on no certain schedule although it seems to be about every 200-300 rounds and the cleaning is minimal. I get minimal copper fouling and I have never seen a noticable increase in accuracy after cleaning. I have different experiences with factory barrels. Some of those definately benifited from a break in procedure.
     
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