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Barrel Cleaning suggestions to minimize gas port erosion?

rmiked

Sergeant of the Hide
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Minuteman
Nov 8, 2023
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I am new to ARs. Have a Seekins SP10 in 6.5 CM. I have the Wheeler bore guide, aluminum with o-rings. I cleaned my barrel before shooting it initially. I used patches with CLP, no bore brush. I have a brass bore brush. Are there any recommended practices in cleaning to minimize “gas port erosion”. I have read about putting a cleaner soaked patch at the port location and letting it sit there a while? I assume you just measure to the gas block and then measure the rod insertion? I plan on cleaning the barrel around 50 rounds. I only have 17 rounds thru it now? It’s a brass bore brush ok? I don’t see how brass bristles could scratch a SS barrel but I can understand chemical corrosion with dissimilar metals. I read some neutralize their brass bore brush with brake cleaner after cleaning? Before I get a couple hundred rounds thru rifle, just wondering if I can be intentional about cleaning. Thanks
 
I personally only use nylon bore brushes, to eliminate any potential issues with brass brushes.

As for cleaning, I just do the normal cleaning process after a day at the range where I have put 200-300 rounds downrange. There are times when I will let it go 2-3 times before I clean…but only if I know the rounds I’m shooting aren’t crap (Wolf steel cased, for example).

[edit]. Note: I only use a bore brush after a really heavy range session or if I’ve used some chunky ammo
 
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Gas port erosion results from shooting - not cleaning - the gun.

A bore guide is always a good idea, to eliminate throat wear resulting from repeated passes with a carbon impregnated cleaning rod.

Don't expect much in the way of cleaning results using CLP. For serious barrel cleaning products, I'd look to KG Industries and Bore-Tech. I have a bench rest buddy that swears by Wipe Out. I'm sure there are plenty of other good products out there.

With the right cleaning products and routine cleaning, you don't really need bore brushes, unless you've got a belt-fed. Don't be afraid of brass brushes. Just don't pull them back through the bore, as it will eventually have a bad effect on the barrel crown. Remove the bore brush after each pass.

You're never really going to know what is going on inside a barrel without a borescope.
 
I have been using wipe-out for years on my bolt guns. Seems to work well. I realize the gas port erosion is from shooting. I’m just wondering is there anything special to do during cleaning to keep the clogging of the gas port to a minimum. I have seen some pics of copper getting snagged on a rough edged gas port and slightly clogging it. Some suggests getting a solvent soaked patch and leaving it for some time period over the gas port to dissolve that deposit? Seems like a hassle? I guess as long as it continues to shoot well, probably not worth thinking about. I don‘t have a borescope and likely not getting one. I have not thought about the process of drilling the gas port thru the barrel before. Might be impossible, based on dimensions, to keep the port in the rifling groove only. Not sure if any manufacturers scope the gas block axial position, and rotate the barrel to minimize hitting the lands vs grooves? Copper deposition around the gas port is likely minimized to the extent the hole was located in the grooves. I‘ll just follow a decent cleaning routine and not worry about it unless some unexplained loss of accuracy that could be caused by a gas flow change. Being new to ARs, I’m reading threads around the forum and getting informed about things I have never thought about. Gas guns are definitely more complex than bolt guns.
 
You heard if Bartlein barrels? @Frank Green owns that shop and attached his cleaning method.

I was cleaning a different way and finally thought, crap, do I know more than Frank? Nope. I just copy him.
 

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I hate to break it to you, but your throat is gonna die and take your barrel with it before port erosion takes it out. Outside of a manufacturing defect with the port anyhow. Barrels are like tires, they are consumables, no point in going crazy trying to keep them alive forever.
 
Yes I have heard a lot about Bartlein barrels. First time from GA Precision as they like them for their GAP10 AR. I just read that document. Makes a lot of sense. Frank really prefers the rod to not exit the muzzle. The Parker Hale type jag doesn’t have a patch perforating tip. I have never seen one. Apparently that allows you to pull the patch back thru the barrel. By letting the tip only stick out the muzzle, you can pull the patch back thru and I’m betting it’s very tight. Thanks for sending this guidance. I will use it. On an unrelated topic, I went to their website under FAQ. They say shooting suppressed can shorten barrel life 50%. And also accelerate wear of the gas port. I don’t plan on shooting suppressed because I don’t have that need. But based on what I just read, I’m glad I don’t.
 
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They say shooting suppressed can shorten barrel life 50%. And also accelerate wear of the gas port. I don’t plan on shooting suppressed because I don’t have that need. But based on what I just read, I’m glad I don’t.
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At least please don’t shoot with a damn brake next to me lol
 
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Gas port erosion results from shooting - not cleaning - the gun.

@rmiked first of all read the above. Second quit worrying about gas port erosion and barrel wear. Barrels wear out. It's what they do. They are consumables.
 
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I don’t use a brake. A 6.5 CM doesn’t need one IMO, especially compared to my 300 Win Mag bolt rifle with no brake. I have tinnitus in my left ear I believe from shooting adjacent to a guy with a Browning Boss years ago. Had to go to car until he left. And been wearing both ear plugs and ear muffs at a range ever since. I realize barrels wear out. Just my first gas gun and getting familiar with unique needs.
 
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