Barrel Contour

[Cardboard Assassin]

I've decided on pretty much everything for my 6BR PRS build except barrel contour (due to their work backlog my build is still a few weeks out).

I was thinking of M24 or MTU (it will be a 28" barrel with whichever contour) but how do they compare to straight?

My understanding is that straight is 1.250" from action to muzzle, M24 & MTU go from 1.250" at the action to around 0.9" at the muzzle.

Questions:

1) The straight contour is obviously heavier but this is on an MDT ACC chassis with weight added for balance & recoil mitigation to help see misses / trace so I'm not too worried about the overall weight but would the straight profile make the rifle front heavy to the point that it wouldn't / couldn't balance well even by adding / removing weight on the chassis?​

2) Does a heavier barrel generally equal more accuracy? Or is this a fallacy?​

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3) Does a heavier barrel cool better? If so would it perform better of a string of fire (ie - like in a competitive setting)? And would that result in better barrel life?​

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

I'm running a 26" MTU contour and I had it in an MDT chassis.

Even with a Rugged Surge on the end, I still needed weights on the front end to balance it out.

I can't say whether or not a straight contour would leave the front end heavy or not.

I will say it's easier to add weight to the front end, then it is the ass end.

A heaver rifle is not more accurate.

There is less barrel whip with a thicker barrel, so it may be easier to tune your load.

A heavier barrel does not cool "better." In fact, it's the opposite as all the extra material retains heat. However, a thicker barrel can handle longer strings of fire before heating up.

 

[Diablo]

My opinion -
1) straight barrel (no taper) will feel significantly heavier, especially with the 28" length you are planning.
If you want to balance the rig, and also see misses, consider shorter (24" maybe), thread it and have your 'smith install a good break or use a supressor (22" length with a suppressor seems suitable, IMO). For this little cartridge, I would go with a medium varmint contour on the barrel.
2) False.
3) Presume that more surface area would allow more cooling, however, a thicker barrel takes longer to heat up and also takes longer to cool. The barrel of the rifle is a consumable thing, it begins to wear out as you start using it. If you avoid long strings of fire (excessive heating) then it does not wear as rapidly. For the recent rebarrel of a 6mm Surgeon, I had two barrels prepared.

 

[lte82]

I’ve had two 28”x1.25 straights, a 26”x1.25, and a handful of mtu-ish contours from 24-28”, plus a few medium and heavy palmas. I think 26-28” mtu is the sweet spot, but you’ll never know unless you try them both for yourself.

 

[S3th]

I had a straight barrel 28.5" 6BR... it was front heavy. I would go Competition contour if I was to do it again.

 

[spife7980]

I’ve had two 28”x1.25 straights, a 26”x1.25, and a handful of mtu-ish contours from 24-28”, plus a few medium and heavy palmas. I think 26-28” mtu is the sweet spot, but you’ll never know unless you try them both for yourself.

I agree. I am on proof comp contours and they are just a hair too front heavy with full rear and internal weights in my mdt accs. The previous mtu was perfect, I could slide the bipod to right up in front of the mag well and it would damn near sit there and balance by itself on the bipod alone.

 

[Cardboard Assassin]

Where I reside our overlords do not allow mere peasants to possess suppressors (Canada) so that aint an option. I'm going 28" for the extra velocity.

Sounds like MTU is the best fit. This gun will either be on a bench (F Class) or on a bag (PRS) so I dont anticipate having to shoot it unsupported but in the event that I do I despise front heavy guns, always feels clumsy to me.

 

[Shoots 700's]

ive been using Heavy Varmint in my Bartlein barrels.