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Gunsmithing barrel indication

Doc Holiday13

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 7, 2008
391
8
LoCo, VA
So I'm looking to do some barrel threading, but I'm curious as to how you guys indicate barrels if they don't stick out both sides of the headstock on the lathe. Do you just indicate off the muzzle and call it good?

I'm using a rockwell and the headstock is about 16" through without the 4 jaw installed.
 
Re: barrel indication

Take a look at the vid in this thread its one way to skin the cat. HERE BTW you could purchase or fabricate a spider to use instead of the 4 jaw chuck. It doesnt provide as much holding power as the 4 jaw but it will shorted the span of the headstock by a couple inches.
 
Re: barrel indication

Indicating through the headstock is not the only way to thread, and chamber an accurate rifle. You can do it with the steady rest. Steve Ackers has an AGI video that is very old, and hard to follow due to bad camera angles, but it works. I know that this will bring argument from almost everyone here and else where that this is terrible advise, and you shouldn't try it.

Well, let me tell you that when I started, this was the first way I learned to do it, and it does work. There wasn't a rifle I built this way that didn't shoot well under 1/2 MOA with factory ammo. I also know of a great rifle builder that has been building precision rifles since the very early 70's that still uses this method today. I won't mention their name, but I was there and saw it for myself.

I adopted the through the head indicating method about three years ago, and now own a SB Heavy Ten that allows me to thread and chamber an 18 inch barrel. However, I would not hesitate to do it the other way if I didn't own the SB. Hope this sheds a little light on you're problem.
 
Re: barrel indication

You can always spin it between centers as well. Turn a false muzzle with a spud on it that is a snug slip fit into the bore. Make the spud long enough so it goes into the bore 2-3". This will help alignment, even if the bore has a touch of runout. Although not as accurate as through the tailstock for a brake it will be fine.
As far as the center rest method I had a helluva time getting my steady rest stable enough to where I was happy, even with a cathead. I was always getting harmonics and chatter. I ended up making a dedicated steady rest out of 2" aluminum, 2 sealed precision bearings and a pressed in cathead. Much more secure.