barrel jump?
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Re: barrel jump?
Timed brake with ports somewhat angled upward if your shooting disiplin allows a brake.
Timed brake with ports somewhat angled upward if your shooting disiplin allows a brake.
Re: barrel jump?
What caliber?
A lot of the movement during recoil can be controlled by proper alignment behind the rifle.
What caliber?
A lot of the movement during recoil can be controlled by proper alignment behind the rifle.
Re: barrel jump?
yeah.......one may wish to do some research on such topics as bi-pod hop and muzzle flip,,,,,,or the proper way to drive a rifle
yeah.......one may wish to do some research on such topics as bi-pod hop and muzzle flip,,,,,,or the proper way to drive a rifle
Re: barrel jump?
Getting the shoulder up higher on the butt pad, closer to the bore axis, can reduce the vertical component of recoil, and may help with muzzle flip. Maintaining gentle but deliberate butt pad pressure against the shoulder can also help convert a slamming recoil pulse into a more consistent push and this can also reduce the effects of recoil.
Another approach (I own three .30-'06, including my Garand, which is definitely much heavier than the other two), is to go with a lighter load. Unless you're shootng well beyond 300yd, .30-'06 hunting loads do not need to be any heavier than a 150gr bullet. Remington 150gr Core-Lokts are my goto deer load for Northeast woodlands.
In fact, their Managed Recoil 125gr Core-Lokt loads are pretty much an adequate deer load for shots of up to 150yd and maybe a little more. Our Northeastern woodland seldom permit a longer shot anyway, so these could actually be considered a preferable deer load in my locale, especially if recoil is an issue.
But I also don't use anything lighter than 150gr with my Garand, which has special handloading bullet and powder requirements.
I have taken some of my 125gr Core-Lokts factory loads apart and replaced the charge with 50.0gr of IMR-4064 (my standard 150gr Garand load), and this appears have upped the power factor to a more decisive level; shooting flatter, but still providing more manageable recoil than the 150's. Because of the 125gr bullet weight, I would still keep longest shots to around 150yd max, but would also expect more decisive bullet expansion; which could get wicked explosive on really close shots.
For targets, the same 50.0gr of IMR-4064 and the new 135gr SMK's might be a good starting load.
These are just a few ideas I've tried and liked. Part of my requirements involve a 110lb Granddaughter who's right at home with the .30-'06 sporter using 125gr loads. She actually likes the rifle.
Greg
Getting the shoulder up higher on the butt pad, closer to the bore axis, can reduce the vertical component of recoil, and may help with muzzle flip. Maintaining gentle but deliberate butt pad pressure against the shoulder can also help convert a slamming recoil pulse into a more consistent push and this can also reduce the effects of recoil.
Another approach (I own three .30-'06, including my Garand, which is definitely much heavier than the other two), is to go with a lighter load. Unless you're shootng well beyond 300yd, .30-'06 hunting loads do not need to be any heavier than a 150gr bullet. Remington 150gr Core-Lokts are my goto deer load for Northeast woodlands.
In fact, their Managed Recoil 125gr Core-Lokt loads are pretty much an adequate deer load for shots of up to 150yd and maybe a little more. Our Northeastern woodland seldom permit a longer shot anyway, so these could actually be considered a preferable deer load in my locale, especially if recoil is an issue.
But I also don't use anything lighter than 150gr with my Garand, which has special handloading bullet and powder requirements.
I have taken some of my 125gr Core-Lokts factory loads apart and replaced the charge with 50.0gr of IMR-4064 (my standard 150gr Garand load), and this appears have upped the power factor to a more decisive level; shooting flatter, but still providing more manageable recoil than the 150's. Because of the 125gr bullet weight, I would still keep longest shots to around 150yd max, but would also expect more decisive bullet expansion; which could get wicked explosive on really close shots.
For targets, the same 50.0gr of IMR-4064 and the new 135gr SMK's might be a good starting load.
These are just a few ideas I've tried and liked. Part of my requirements involve a 110lb Granddaughter who's right at home with the .30-'06 sporter using 125gr loads. She actually likes the rifle.
Greg
Re: barrel jump?
I'm trying to work this out for myself, as well. I think a lot of people respond "do your homework," etc, but it's just hard to specifically figure out what you are doing wrong.
I'm not much of a long range or precision shooter - a carbine guy - but I am trying to improve my performance on a R700 in .308 Win. Mine specifically hops left. I shoot alone, so I don't have anyone spotting my alignment, but it hops left basically every time.
One thing I think that might contribute to this is shooting on a concrete floor with the Harris Bipod. There's no grip, so I can't really load the bipod. Perhaps it's shoulder alignment, but I don't think I'm bladed at all in my shoulders.
I do not have this problem when shooting a Barrett .50, which I would only think would amplify any form issues. My Noveske 5.56 SPR has no problems, as well, but it's puny by comparison.
I'm trying to work this out for myself, as well. I think a lot of people respond "do your homework," etc, but it's just hard to specifically figure out what you are doing wrong.
I'm not much of a long range or precision shooter - a carbine guy - but I am trying to improve my performance on a R700 in .308 Win. Mine specifically hops left. I shoot alone, so I don't have anyone spotting my alignment, but it hops left basically every time.
One thing I think that might contribute to this is shooting on a concrete floor with the Harris Bipod. There's no grip, so I can't really load the bipod. Perhaps it's shoulder alignment, but I don't think I'm bladed at all in my shoulders.
I do not have this problem when shooting a Barrett .50, which I would only think would amplify any form issues. My Noveske 5.56 SPR has no problems, as well, but it's puny by comparison.
Re: barrel jump?
You can use your body weight to anchor the rifle down if you try a trick that uses both a bipod and a sling.
Set up the rifle on the bipod and bag with a sling running fore and aft and slightly slack. Get down behind the rifle as usual, but take the non-trigger hand and slip it and the arm, up to the elbow, in between the rifle forearm and sling. Reach back with the hand and grasp the rifle butt/bag, steering the rifle as usual; but leaning your weight into your elbow, so it pulls down against the sling.
The sling length should be adjusted do the elbow is supported part way clear of the ground.
Now, as the rifle recoils, the body weight holds the bipod down in contact with the ground surface. With practice, it will become more natural feeling, and can even allow the shooter to capture the bullets trace and observe it's impact.
Folks have suggested this is my method, but I seriously doubt I was the first to discover this technique.
Greg
You can use your body weight to anchor the rifle down if you try a trick that uses both a bipod and a sling.
Set up the rifle on the bipod and bag with a sling running fore and aft and slightly slack. Get down behind the rifle as usual, but take the non-trigger hand and slip it and the arm, up to the elbow, in between the rifle forearm and sling. Reach back with the hand and grasp the rifle butt/bag, steering the rifle as usual; but leaning your weight into your elbow, so it pulls down against the sling.
The sling length should be adjusted do the elbow is supported part way clear of the ground.
Now, as the rifle recoils, the body weight holds the bipod down in contact with the ground surface. With practice, it will become more natural feeling, and can even allow the shooter to capture the bullets trace and observe it's impact.
Folks have suggested this is my method, but I seriously doubt I was the first to discover this technique.
Greg
Re: barrel jump?
All,
The control technique that Greg alluded to is one I've observed a few Soldiers contemplating while exercising their SDM training. These Soldiers are advised that what ever supports getting the job done is acceptable. Joe Six Pack is another matter. This guy knows nothing about marksmanship, so, it's not surprising such a shooter does not understand the elements and factors of a steady position. And, without knowing what's fundamentally important, attempting to piece together a position solely on a desire to alter jump, which in and of itself is meaningless, will not likely produce the overall desired result, the consistent control of the firearm from the time the trigger is pulled until recoil has subsided. Further complicating things is the bipod itself. It's a steady rest, but without considerations, it's a lousy support. My suggestion is to initially learn how to build a solid position using a sandbag support, with the non-firing hand placed between the hand guard and bag. With placement of the non-firing hand on the hand guard, more consistent control of the rifle will be better assured, independent of technique.
OP,
Learn about the (3) elements and (5) factors of a steady position.
All,
The control technique that Greg alluded to is one I've observed a few Soldiers contemplating while exercising their SDM training. These Soldiers are advised that what ever supports getting the job done is acceptable. Joe Six Pack is another matter. This guy knows nothing about marksmanship, so, it's not surprising such a shooter does not understand the elements and factors of a steady position. And, without knowing what's fundamentally important, attempting to piece together a position solely on a desire to alter jump, which in and of itself is meaningless, will not likely produce the overall desired result, the consistent control of the firearm from the time the trigger is pulled until recoil has subsided. Further complicating things is the bipod itself. It's a steady rest, but without considerations, it's a lousy support. My suggestion is to initially learn how to build a solid position using a sandbag support, with the non-firing hand placed between the hand guard and bag. With placement of the non-firing hand on the hand guard, more consistent control of the rifle will be better assured, independent of technique.
OP,
Learn about the (3) elements and (5) factors of a steady position.
Re: barrel jump?
For my rifles larger than 6PPC I do what a friend of mine calls "bear hugging" it. Use your off hand and pull it into your shoulder as tight as you can. Every time I take a different rifle to the range, I start pulling it back as tight as I can and let off a little for each group and see what tension works best for that rifle.
This is not as thorough or complicated as some of the other methods. It's just what works for me.
I hope this helps.
For my rifles larger than 6PPC I do what a friend of mine calls "bear hugging" it. Use your off hand and pull it into your shoulder as tight as you can. Every time I take a different rifle to the range, I start pulling it back as tight as I can and let off a little for each group and see what tension works best for that rifle.
This is not as thorough or complicated as some of the other methods. It's just what works for me.
I hope this helps.
Re: barrel jump?
This subject has acquired new meaning for me lately. I know it sounds like wimp talkin', but the new Sav .260 predator is generating a surprising degree of push with the 140SMK at a near-max load. The rifle needs a firm hand pulling it into the shoulder, or it's all over the place. When I get it right it's an exquisite shooter, too bad I'm not quite equal to its potential. Yet. This dog <span style="font-style: italic">will</span> hunt, we just need to get the driver back up to a more proper speed.
Greg
This subject has acquired new meaning for me lately. I know it sounds like wimp talkin', but the new Sav .260 predator is generating a surprising degree of push with the 140SMK at a near-max load. The rifle needs a firm hand pulling it into the shoulder, or it's all over the place. When I get it right it's an exquisite shooter, too bad I'm not quite equal to its potential. Yet. This dog <span style="font-style: italic">will</span> hunt, we just need to get the driver back up to a more proper speed.
Greg
Re: barrel jump?
I think I've been getting this b/c of two reasons:
1 - firing from an elevated position ( probably 10' or more of drop over 100 yds) and
2 - bipod has no grip on the surface, so you can't load the bipod.
I put a different target out and hiked up the road a bit to get a 250+yd shot, and it was elevated but on a slope (the original elevated position was flat). It was soft ground, so bipod was loaded fine.
No hop.
I think I've been getting this b/c of two reasons:
1 - firing from an elevated position ( probably 10' or more of drop over 100 yds) and
2 - bipod has no grip on the surface, so you can't load the bipod.
I put a different target out and hiked up the road a bit to get a 250+yd shot, and it was elevated but on a slope (the original elevated position was flat). It was soft ground, so bipod was loaded fine.
No hop.
