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Barrel recomendation for 8" 300BLK

les_garten

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Full Member
Minuteman
May 3, 2013
54
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I am interested in a 8" 300BLK barrel for and AR build

I looked at Craddock and they are not available.

I'm going to call CLE tomorrow, they mentioned they may be able to do a Douglas

I am interested in Krieger - Bartlein level of Barrel quality

Any other Vendors or other Barrels along these lines I should look at? I can shoot 1/2 MOA or better with good equipment
 
You not going to get that accuracy out of 300 blk ammo. I would be more concerned about proper gasing, length, and twist rate for the type of shooting you want vs spending the money on a high end barrel that is not going to reach its potential.
 
I've seen some amazing accuracy on youtube with people reloading. Factory ammo maybe not so much as you say.
 
I've had good luck with Wilson Combat barrels. I think 8" is a good length for 300 Blackout. If subsonic isn't important, the 300 HAM'R might also be something to take a look at.
 
This is my 9.5" KAC SR-30 @ 50 meters. Don't reload. Usually Gorilla or Black Hills supersonic, Sig subsonic. I don't believe there is any inherent over all advantage to a shorter barrel, particularly if it is configured on a folder receiver. Not super-accurate, but his is the best I could achieve with factory ammo and I can pull a trigger followed-thru straight back.
KAC 300 Blackout Eotech XPS2 with SurefireIMG_4499 copy Annotated Nov 2020 copy.jpg
IMG_7372KAC SR-30 9.5 EOTECH ZERO 50 METERS CRACKER SWAMP 05.29.23 copy.jpg
IMG_7374KAC SR-30 9.5 EOTECH ZERO 50 METERS CRACKER SWAMP 05.29.23 copy.jpg
IMG_7377KAC SR-30 9.5 EOTECH ZERO 50 METERS CRACKER SWAMP 05.29.23 copy.jpg
IMG_7378KAC SR-30 9.5 EOTECH ZERO 50 METERS CRACKER SWAMP 05.29.23 copy.jpg
IMG_7380KAC SR-30 9.5 EOTECH ZERO 50 METERS CRACKER SWAMP 05.29.23 copy.jpg
 
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This is my 9.5" KAC SR-30 @ 50 meters. Don't reload. Usually Gorilla or Black Hills supersonic, Sig subsonic. I don't believe there is any inherent overa all advantage to a shorter barrel, particularly if it is configured on a folder receiver. Not super-accurate, but his is the best I could achieve with factory ammo and I can pull a trigger followed-thru straight back.


What Barrel?
 
I cobbled together this Primary Weapons System (piston) Mk109 .300 BO a few years ago. Used a variety of sight systems, finding the need for real scope e.g. S&B 1.1-4X short dot, to increase precision @ 100 meters, the 1-2 MOA dot just can't provide. Running Gorilla 147 FMJ @ 1821 fps. These platforms are not sniper rifles, but the hogs don't know that. Subsonics POI ~ 10-11" lower @ short distances. Recently zeroed with an Eotech to conform to some other assemblies.
IMG_7090PWS Mk109 .300 BLKO Eotech Zero 50 Meters Cracker Swamp 05.08.23  copy.jpg
IMG_7097PWS Mk109 .300 BLKO Eotech Zero 50 Meters Cracker Swamp 05.08.23  copy.jpg
IMG_7093PWS Mk109 .300 BLKO Eotech Zero 50 Meters Cracker Swamp 05.08.23  copy.jpg
IMG_4605copy1 copy 2.jpg
IMG_5120 copy 2.JPG
IMG_5155 copy 2.JPG
Screen Shot 2023-07-07 at 6.18.14 PM.png
IMG_7038Eotech XPS3-0  XPS2-0 Green Rock River Arms 5.56 9mm PWS .300 BO KAC SR-30 05.03.23A c...jpg
 
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Skip Noveske, go with the guys that ran Noveske when they were still relevant.

Personally, I'd skip the build and go with the Sig Spear LT if all you'll shoot are subs. It's a laser with factory Hornady Sub-x rounds and eats/cycles everything I've thrown at it with zero FTF's to date. The 1:5 twist is really designed with subs in mind though so to run supers, just to be safe, you're looking at solid projectiles if you're running a can.

I've built two DI 300 blackout guns, one with a Law folder, and it's just not the same. The Sig also has a longer dwell time which is why it's cycled every subsonic round I've tried. It'll even cycle the Hornady Black 208 grain subs which my DI gun with an 8" barrel, would not. They'd mostly work on the 10.5" gun but not always. I will say the DI guns, with supers, have less felt recoil but that's the only knock against the Sig.
 
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Skip Noveske, go with the guys that ran Noveske when they were still relevant.

Personally, I'd skip the build and go with the Sig Spear LT if all you'll shoot are subs. It's a laser with factory Hornady Sub-x rounds and eats/cycles everything I've thrown at it with zero FTF's to date. The 1:5 twist is really designed with subs in mind though so to run supers, just to be safe, you're looking at solid projectiles if you're running a can.

I've built two DI 300 blackout guns, one with a Law folder, and it's just not the same. The Sig also has a longer dwell time which is why it's cycled every subsonic round I've tried. It'll even cycle the Hornady Black 208 grain subs which my DI gun with an 8" barrel, would not. They'd mostly work on the 10.5" gun but not always. I will say the DI guns, with supers, have less felt recoil but that's the only knock against the Sig.
Solid barrel suggestion (and they offer fluted profiles). Going to play devil's advocate on the Sig. I own the 300 BLK rattler and also the newer LT in 300 BLK. Both have terrible upper / lower receiver fitment which seems to be the norm, and the inability of the handguard on the LT to hold zero for a laser is ultimately what made me go back to a DI since I like to run it out front without any pressure pad. That said, you can circumvent the rail / zero issue by simply mounting your laser farther back onto the upper receiver part, or use a mount that elevates and holds the laser in tandem with your optic. I do really miss the ability to run a native folding stock though (not a huge fan of the law folder) and the ambi ergonomics on the lower are cool if that's your thing.
 
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Could check with White Oak as well as they deal with Krieger and Bartlein blanks. Might even look at X-Caliber who do their own blanks and do all metal or carbon barrels. They have an 8" barrel offering and you can pick your profile, fluting, color, cryo, etc...I recently did one of their 223 Wylde chambers and it's a fantastic barrel.

On the Sig, there's like 2" that isn't attached to the main frame rail so not a lot of room. I have my laser behind with a BUIS up front. I also use the Arisaka brace and IMO, it's built like a tank, I never noticed any flexing but I know others did. I didn't really notice the upper/lower fitment as the lower is always under tension and it's a PITA to push the take down pins out. The one advantage to the DI setup is you can definitely make a lighweight weapon. Both mine were sub 5 pounds naked and that wasn't even using a lot of expensive unobtanium components other than a carbon hand guard.
 
I built a Noveske Gen 3 rifle in .300 BLK w/ their 7.94" diplomat barrel. Running that with the Nomad-30 and it is stupid quiet. One of the most enjoyable rifles to shoot I own.