Gunsmithing Barrel Switch - Rem 700

[LoanHarvey]

I have a R700 in a 22-250, and I want to spin that barrel off and spin on a 243 take off barrel. Is it that simple to switch and go? Any thoughts or words of wisdom would be appreciated. Want to make sure the short action of a 22-250 will shoot the 243 round. I measured the bolt, and it is the same dimensions as another 243 I have.
Thank you

 

[jasonk]

The action, bolt, etc are just fine. You'll need to make sure that the new barrel headspaces correctly. For that you'll need a go gauge, a little know how, and a lathe if it's not correct.

Jason

 

[Niles Coyote]

What he said but I would add a no go and a good wide file and a extra recoil lug if you dont have a lathe...

 

[LoanHarvey]

So what you are saying is the likely hood of unscrewing the 22-250 barrel and screwing on the 243 barrel would likely not work without some modifications?

 

[Niles Coyote]

It’s not that difficult, but yes there may be some modifying required. I have been doing it for the last year. Most of my barrels are really close, talking head space. I got started with a AAC prefit that you adjust the thickness of the lug for final fit. I got a set of three gauges go, no go and field. To my dismay every Remington rifle that I have that uses the 308 gauge set, all of them, were closing on a no go just not a field. For that first build I just ordered a PT&G lug that was a little thinner than the factory one I replaced. That barrel and the one I removed were now headspaced under what the factory was setting them at. Later, following the directions that came with my AAC barrel, I planed down my lug using the file and set the headspace even closer and it is still working with those two barrels and an additional two I have bought since.

That said, YMMV...

I say that cause now that I have the tools to fix Remington’s mistakes I have seen factory lug thickness very as much as .004” and that is enough that it could land you too long to be safe... or right were you need to be... just depends.

 

[BillyGoatMachine]

So what you are saying is the likely hood of unscrewing the 22-250 barrel and screwing on the 243 barrel would likely not work without some modifications?

Correct. The work can be done yourself if you can figure it out. It will probably be much cheaper and faster to just get a smith to do it for you. Then all you need is an action wrench and a barrel vice for a switch barrel set up.

 

[ugsly]

Keep yer file in the toolbox, take it to a gunsmith or someone that has a lathe and can do the work for you. If you have access to a lathe and the head space is to long, its not hard to set the shoulder, tennon & counter bore back. If the chamber needs to be cut deeper then you need to buy/rent a reamer.

Just my thoughts

Casey

 

[fastex500]

Or.. Get 2 new barrels from Jim at NSS that are prefits with barrel nut. Set of go gauges and barrel nut wrench. I've only had savages and am building a 700 LA with a prefit from Jim. There are several reviews on here of the prefit/barrel nut setups. You can get 2 barrels and a barrel nut for around $660 shipped


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[bax]

If you are going to shoot out of the magazine, make sure that the loaded 243 round will fit -- length and width.

If you remove the 22-250 barrel and install the 243 barrel, the point of impact will change. This isn't something you want to do at the range in the middle of the day -- unless the 22-250 breaks or burns out or something similar -- because you have to completely rezero the weapon.

Make sure that the new barrel profile will fit into the barrel channel of your weapon.

Do not confuse the recoil lugs - you either have one lug for everything or you have one for each barrel. I have one for everything, mine is pinned to the receiver.

Both rounds have a .473 bolt face.

You could use one muzzle brake for both barrels.

I had a 'smith do my barrel work.