Who makes a good barrel for the best price. Gun is a .308 in mcmillan a5 stock would like to keep the barrel 22 - 20 inches. Supressor will be added later in life.
Thanks,
Hunter
Thanks,
Hunter
- Thread starter HunterH
- Start date
Re: Barrel upgrade
Bartlein is a good choice if you can get one in the time that you are willing to wait.
Rock Creek is another good choice as well.
Bartlein is a good choice if you can get one in the time that you are willing to wait.
Rock Creek is another good choice as well.
Re: Barrel upgrade
Bartlein, obermeyer, Krieger, rock, brux...
Bugholes has a lot of brux barrels available right now, grizzly tool has some bartleins.
I went Rock for my new build, I think brux will get my next, these top makers do their job, are proven, hard to go wrong.
$300-$500 depending upon options, I would say... Don't let $100 mean not getting what you want, the barrel is kind of important.
Bartlein, obermeyer, Krieger, rock, brux...
Bugholes has a lot of brux barrels available right now, grizzly tool has some bartleins.
I went Rock for my new build, I think brux will get my next, these top makers do their job, are proven, hard to go wrong.
$300-$500 depending upon options, I would say... Don't let $100 mean not getting what you want, the barrel is kind of important.
Re: Barrel upgrade
I don't know what action you are using, but for the price and quality I would give Jim at Northland Shooting Supply a call and ask him about Criterion barrels. (If you have a Savage)
I don't know what action you are using, but for the price and quality I would give Jim at Northland Shooting Supply a call and ask him about Criterion barrels. (If you have a Savage)
Re: Barrel upgrade
Well I thought they were way more expensive. Seems like a nice and cheaper upgrade to make. Its for a Remmington 700 Short Action
Well I thought they were way more expensive. Seems like a nice and cheaper upgrade to make. Its for a Remmington 700 Short Action
Re: Barrel upgrade
dont forget to add the price of the machine work to the barrel after paying $300+ just for the barrel
dont forget to add the price of the machine work to the barrel after paying $300+ just for the barrel
Re: Barrel upgrade
How much should I set aside for machine work?
How much should I set aside for machine work?
Re: Barrel upgrade
Talk to your trusted smith, may be $200, may be $300+, add shipping to that if you need to ship and it's easy to match the price of the barrel.
Have them true up and do the action work as well, this is included for some smiths, extra for others.
Talk to your trusted smith, may be $200, may be $300+, add shipping to that if you need to ship and it's easy to match the price of the barrel.
Have them true up and do the action work as well, this is included for some smiths, extra for others.
Re: Barrel upgrade
What will they do with the barrel? just thread and crown?
What will they do with the barrel? just thread and crown?
Re: Barrel upgrade
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hsss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Obermyer</div></div>
That is an <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">EXPERT</span></span> opinion.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hsss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Obermyer</div></div>
That is an <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">EXPERT</span></span> opinion.
Re: Barrel upgrade
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HunterH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What will they do with the barrel? just thread and crown? </div></div>
They will chamber,cut to desired length,crown or thread, and fit it to your action. Even though the barrel is important, I would say the smith chambering it is more important. An over jealous smith can easily ruin the most expensive match grade barrel.
You get what you pay for. Stick with a well known brand of barrel and a smith who is reputable and it will pay off in the end.
I run a Brux and it's a laser but a Rock Creek,Oby,Bartlein,Krieger,Schneider, or Lilja will serve you well. Benchmark barrels are also lasers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HunterH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What will they do with the barrel? just thread and crown? </div></div>
They will chamber,cut to desired length,crown or thread, and fit it to your action. Even though the barrel is important, I would say the smith chambering it is more important. An over jealous smith can easily ruin the most expensive match grade barrel.
You get what you pay for. Stick with a well known brand of barrel and a smith who is reputable and it will pay off in the end.
I run a Brux and it's a laser but a Rock Creek,Oby,Bartlein,Krieger,Schneider, or Lilja will serve you well. Benchmark barrels are also lasers.
Re: Barrel upgrade
Anyone used a hart barrel?
Anyone used a hart barrel?
Re: Barrel upgrade
I have 3 harts. All .1 to .2 barrels. You can't go wrong with any. Like calling4life said, pick out your smith, as all the top barrel manufacturers are equal. It is a very competitive bussiness and subpar barrel makers don't last long.
Once you have picked out your smith, ask them what they like to use. That being said, never seen a smith that wouldn't use Hart.
Also pick out the options you want and go from there.
Fluting? Wait? Price? Number of grooves? Stainless or Chromemoly?
I have 3 harts. All .1 to .2 barrels. You can't go wrong with any. Like calling4life said, pick out your smith, as all the top barrel manufacturers are equal. It is a very competitive bussiness and subpar barrel makers don't last long.
Once you have picked out your smith, ask them what they like to use. That being said, never seen a smith that wouldn't use Hart.
Also pick out the options you want and go from there.
Fluting? Wait? Price? Number of grooves? Stainless or Chromemoly?
Re: Barrel upgrade
Rebarreling is an expensive upgrade when you add in the cost of the barrel and the machining. If you want to get the most out of it, I would recommend having your action blueprinted, getting an oversized recoil lug and then having it professionally bedded to your McMillan. If your trigger and optics are decent, you should have excellent results. However, the machining is critical, choose your smith wisely. If a smith tells you he'll throw in all the blueprinting (single pointing/truing of receiver threads/face/lug seats, along with the bolt face/lugs and final hand lapping) for free---I would find another smith.
Rebarreling is an expensive upgrade when you add in the cost of the barrel and the machining. If you want to get the most out of it, I would recommend having your action blueprinted, getting an oversized recoil lug and then having it professionally bedded to your McMillan. If your trigger and optics are decent, you should have excellent results. However, the machining is critical, choose your smith wisely. If a smith tells you he'll throw in all the blueprinting (single pointing/truing of receiver threads/face/lug seats, along with the bolt face/lugs and final hand lapping) for free---I would find another smith.
Re: Barrel upgrade
I'll be happy to take a few minutes out of help out a LEO.
There are plenty of opinions out there and most are just that opinions. Ford vs. Chevy.
First figure out what it is that you want. For a full on tacitical rig the M40 profile is pretty much standard. They weight about 7 pounds and make about a 15 pound finished rifle. Some guys use them to hunt with but they are best for competitions and real tactical work. I wouldn't want to be toting one up a treestand in Lower Alabama.
For a good dual purpose rig I like a #5. Check out week #95 on 6mmbr.com guns of the week. That is a little lighter than a sandero and will work great for dual purpose rigs.
For hunting in Alabama I like a #4 profile. Great balance and weight. A little heavier than most factory contours but not enough to notice.
For mountain hunting go with a #3.
Then decide Stainless or Chrome Moly. Stainless is by far the most durable and longest lasting. Only get Chrome Moly if you want a classic blueing job. 95% of custom barrels are stainless.
Fluted or not. It's mostly to save weight and for asthetics. I usually stay away from fluting. For a $150 fluting job you are half way towards paying for your next barrel. Some say they cool faster but a solid barrel will heat up slower to begin with. Heavier pots heat up slower on the stove. When I do get flutes I usually just get 6 strainght flutes. That skip fluting negates the whole removing weight idea.
Then grooves. 4, 5, 6. I really like the 5r or 5c depending on what the company calls it. Broughton reports longer service and higher velocity with their 5c barrels. Obermeyer, Krieger, Bartlein, Rock, Shilen, also offer it. They all do great and I've always been tickled with my 6 groove Harts.
The big debate is cut or button rifling. This is the big Ford vs. Chevy debate. I own both. I've had great luck with Hart, Broughton, and Krieger. Some people say that the cut rifled barrels last longer. I've seen no differance. I have a 6 groove Hart 308 winchester with over 8,000 rounds through it and still shooting .3 groups.
Some say the button rifling has a superior interior finish with no tool marks. When properly lapped I see no tool marks in my cut barrels. The cut barrels do seem to take a little longer to break in.
Some say the cut is better because it takes more skill from the machineist. I don't buy that. The more skill thats required the more room for human error. All the manufactures have there own commonalities and there own proprietry metheds.
You can't go wrong with any. I've had great personnal success with Hart, Broughton, and Krieger. All have won matches and I would shoot any on your thread without hesitation if the price or wait was right.
If you haven't decided on a smith Hart does smithing in New York. Also google Bobby Hart, he is a distributer out of PA and is a phenomenal smith that distributes Harts.
I'll be happy to take a few minutes out of help out a LEO.
There are plenty of opinions out there and most are just that opinions. Ford vs. Chevy.
First figure out what it is that you want. For a full on tacitical rig the M40 profile is pretty much standard. They weight about 7 pounds and make about a 15 pound finished rifle. Some guys use them to hunt with but they are best for competitions and real tactical work. I wouldn't want to be toting one up a treestand in Lower Alabama.
For a good dual purpose rig I like a #5. Check out week #95 on 6mmbr.com guns of the week. That is a little lighter than a sandero and will work great for dual purpose rigs.
For hunting in Alabama I like a #4 profile. Great balance and weight. A little heavier than most factory contours but not enough to notice.
For mountain hunting go with a #3.
Then decide Stainless or Chrome Moly. Stainless is by far the most durable and longest lasting. Only get Chrome Moly if you want a classic blueing job. 95% of custom barrels are stainless.
Fluted or not. It's mostly to save weight and for asthetics. I usually stay away from fluting. For a $150 fluting job you are half way towards paying for your next barrel. Some say they cool faster but a solid barrel will heat up slower to begin with. Heavier pots heat up slower on the stove. When I do get flutes I usually just get 6 strainght flutes. That skip fluting negates the whole removing weight idea.
Then grooves. 4, 5, 6. I really like the 5r or 5c depending on what the company calls it. Broughton reports longer service and higher velocity with their 5c barrels. Obermeyer, Krieger, Bartlein, Rock, Shilen, also offer it. They all do great and I've always been tickled with my 6 groove Harts.
The big debate is cut or button rifling. This is the big Ford vs. Chevy debate. I own both. I've had great luck with Hart, Broughton, and Krieger. Some people say that the cut rifled barrels last longer. I've seen no differance. I have a 6 groove Hart 308 winchester with over 8,000 rounds through it and still shooting .3 groups.
Some say the button rifling has a superior interior finish with no tool marks. When properly lapped I see no tool marks in my cut barrels. The cut barrels do seem to take a little longer to break in.
Some say the cut is better because it takes more skill from the machineist. I don't buy that. The more skill thats required the more room for human error. All the manufactures have there own commonalities and there own proprietry metheds.
You can't go wrong with any. I've had great personnal success with Hart, Broughton, and Krieger. All have won matches and I would shoot any on your thread without hesitation if the price or wait was right.
If you haven't decided on a smith Hart does smithing in New York. Also google Bobby Hart, he is a distributer out of PA and is a phenomenal smith that distributes Harts.
Re: Barrel upgrade
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
