Gunsmithing Bedding a one piece scope rail

[Furtaker_.223]

I have a remington SenderoII. I bought a NF one piece 20MOA rail.

My question is, Do I need to bed this to the action? I was told this rail needs to be bedded to the reciever. Since Remingtons actions were so off and needed to be bedded because of the recoil lug on the rail.

Is this so?

Any help is appreciated. Also if this needs to be bedded, is this easy enough for a DIY kind of thing?

 

[former naval person]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

Put it on your action. Insert the screws without tightening them down. Gently tighten the front screws...see if the rear of the base lifts. If not loosen the front screws and tighten the rear screws gently. See if the front lifts. If either one does, you need to bed the base by tightening the screws, front or rear, that makes the bed lift FIRST. If even...you are golden. I degrease the rifle and the base. Some folks prefer to put release agent on the base. Do NOT epoxy the screws into the action. As JD Jones once told me..."Life is too short to LokTite the screw threads!". That includes epoxy. Apply a good bedding compound to the base staying away from the screw holes by a tiny bit. Place the base and epoxy into position and set it gently onto the action. Insert the screws. As above, if one set of screws lifts the other end of the base, tighten them first. If even, tighten both ends gently...not to the full torque setting recommended. Clean up the run over with Q-Tips and vinegar or WD 40. Let it set up overnight. Then torque the screws to recommended levels. JMHO

 

[Furtaker_.223]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

Sounds easy enough. Great tips. Once I get the rifle back from the smith I will try it.

 

[AXEMAN]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

there are a few tutorials. i used JBWeld. let that sit up for an hour so it dont run out.

http://www.murphyprecision.com/Page/Scope_Base_Bedding

 

[TCA4570]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

Great advice.
One thing we noticed is the back half of Rem actions is not consistant. (lot of blending)
We start at the front and work to the back.
Having base straight with action is a key thing.
Bed base to gun and be able to switch scopes.
Windage should be real close.
It works for us.
No way is the right one.
If it works for you, do it.

 

[Furtaker_.223]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

Great advice. Once I get my rifle back, I will attempt this minor project. After all, what is the worst that could happen? The mount is permanently attached to the rifle. I get a glop of bedding oozing onto my gunroom floor. Trial and error. Fall off a horse, get back up on her. LOL

Thanks AXEMAN

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Put it on your action. Insert the screws without tightening them down. Gently tighten the front screws...see if the rear of the base lifts. If not loosen the front screws and tighten the rear screws gently. See if the front lifts. </div></div>


That test doesn't show all, and doesn't work every time.
I used to do only that too but I've seen that you cant stop there. And cant do only that test.
You can have a lot going on between the rails on the market, the tolerance of Remington receivers, and the fact that the older receivers are different.


Be careful not to change cant angle severely.
Use release agent on the action and screws. You will need that rail off one day.
Check the rail for flatness when you think you are done with a REAL straightedge. Not a $30 ruler. I use my combination square ruler which is straighter than the lapping bars people use on their rings, and way f-in straighter than any scope rail.


In my mind, if I can get the rail flat with good contact under all four screws, the recoil lug touching if the rail has one, all without changing the cant angle I've done a good job.

 

[Furtaker_.223]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

Thanks Keith. So the question now is, To bed or not to bed? That is the million dollar question.

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Bedding a one piece scope rail

The first thing I do is just tighten it down, all four screws, and see what it looks like. I check the little lug for contact, and check it for straightness with my true straight edge. If it seems flat/straight, I just worry about good lug contact on that little lug and its done.

If its not flat/straight, then I begin doing a couple simple tests like the one mentioned above to try to find the reason its not sitting right.

Once I find the reason its not flat/straight, I make up for it with bedding if possible; Using as little as possible, keeping the rail as low as possible, and trying not to change cant angle.




The reason I say the diving board test alone doesnt work:
1) Did the diving board test mentioned above once and bedded under the high side. The high side happened to be the rear... bedded under it and now the rail had so much cant angle it could barely sighted in zero at 100. Obviously it shot WAY high.
2) Saw a rifle that a guy had done the diving board test to before bedding, put a straight edge on it, and it wasnt perfectly flat. So I think his rail was bent out of the box, and he put it on stress-free.... bent. He assumed the rail was perfect and it was not... is my guess.


Be aware of rails that cost $39.99. Do not expect them to be the same quality as a $140.00+ rail. Do not trust a $39.99 rail to be straight, or perfect in any way.




If you're using a NF rail, just tighten it down like you're going to shoot it and see if its flat/straight. If it is flat/straight to the best of your ability to tell, you dont need bedding under the front or rear pads. Now the lug... if the lug isnt making solid contact, use a tiny bit of epoxy to bed the lug, without getting it under the pad.

I think NF used to suggest putting thread lock under the rail. I dont see how thats helping anything. Those 4 screws and little lug are either going to do their job and hold it in place or they arent.