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Gunsmithing Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

Jimmy2Times

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 5, 2005
357
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48
Amesbury, Massachusetts
Can any of you guys give me an idea of what a bedding job might cost if done by a gunsmith?

It looks like I may be out of options and have no choice but to bed these rifles myself. Not really looking forward to that. If my stocks have a full aluminum bedding block (B&C A2 Medalist) do they still require pillars? Or can I just do a "Skim" job?

Also, can somebody post a link to Roscoe's bedding thread? I've been trying to locate it, but even seaching using his username, have been unable to locate it.

Thanks as always,

-Patrick
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

Borrow a dremel from a buddy, get some no-dry modeling clay. Break out the latex gloves and have at it. If you can play with play-dough, you too can glass bed. If it turns out f'd up, grind it out and do it again. Just be sure to use adequate release compound.
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

$150 to $250 depending on the stock and how much stock work will be needed.

No if the stock has an aluminum block it does not need pillars.
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

From Randy's site:
http://www.rdprecision.net/diy2.html


Don't be skeered its not hard. Little unnerving the first time you do it, but really not that hard.

I like Randy's instruction, but there are lots of threads that show different tips and tricks.
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

I had to bed my rifle a week ago and forgot to get clay....so I used a candle and dripped the wax into all the places I didn't want the bedding...once it was semi set up just razor blade it level....once you pop the action it is cold and pops out of the crevices really easy...easier than clay I would imagine....
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

With the full blockes stocks or even B&C stocks with factory pillars what i do is mill out around 100 thou at the front and rear making sure their is at least 100 thou clearence for bedding compound behind the lug then i tape the barrel at the front to make the rifle sit square and paralell with the stock mask off the areas that i dont want bedding mask the recoil lug on the front 2 layers on the bottom and 1 layer coming around from the bottom to 1/2 way up the sides of the lug that will be in bedding. Also i tape the screws up so they are a slide fit into the holes in the stock and use candle wax on anu little holes that bedding might seep into. Also mask the top of the stock so finger prints of bedding compound done just appear after the bedding is done. then release agent the tape on the stock the take down screws and the action. Also where i have machined for the bedding i drill some 1/6" holes about 1/8" deep to allow the bedding compound some places to realy key in. After this i bed the rifle with Devcon, Armour Grout, Steel Bed or LokTite steel putty depending on what the customer wants and what is available here in Australia it does not matter what is used as long as it is a high grade epoxy used by gunsmiths they will all work for you. I never and repeat Never cut the bedding compound away with a knife this just placen nice gouges into an action let. Sorry missed when i was placing the rifle in the bedding i have the screws sitting in the holes so when i drop the action into the bedding the barrel rests on the tape perfectly to hight and the take down screws are just screwed in a few threads to help make sure it is square do not tighten the screws to pull the bedding down. i gently press the rifle to the correct height then place tape over the barrel where it has the tape to hold it in place the tape holds the barreled action to the stock. now i remove the excess compound carefully with a steel rule and then let it set. After 24 hourt i will remove the barreled action and then if it is hot wether i will machine the excess compound if it is cold wether i will leave it another day or two before cleaning it up and finishing the machining around the trigger cut out etc.

I have done it with a die grinder dermel and files but it is not worth it get a gunsmith to do it for you to make sure your Action is not damaged or that your bedding job wont crack out on you in 6 months.

If you only want 2 rifles done it will not be much cheeper to do it yourself when all the parts and products are purchased. I know of a lot of rifles that have been screwed with on home bedding jobs.

Like i said get the area machined out dont just grind it out if you slip there is a gouge in your stock and you can never realy finish well without using a mill.
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

depending on your handiness.and the rifle in question.there are some really good threads on here for the diy.6mmbr.com used to have a good tutorial on this as well.either way good luck.
 
Re: Bedding job cost, ballpark figure?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1SMALLJOHNSON</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Borrow a dremel from a buddy, get some no-dry modeling clay. Break out the latex gloves and have at it. If you can play with play-dough, you too can glass bed. If it turns out f'd up, grind it out and do it again. Just be sure to use adequate release compound. </div></div>

Also masking tape ANYWHERE on the outside that the bedding might run to. Easier to keep it off the stocks finish than to remove it afterward.