I saw a post on this but there were only a few responses. Have many of you done it? Improvements? Any smiths local to Houston,Tx you would recommend?
Gary
Gary
Gunsmithing Bedding MPA chassis
- Thread starter LC 6.5 Shooter
- Start date
Yeah sorry bout that. The bump on the other one was just meant to be to the guy to see if he had done it. Wasnt sure he would reply. I can delete.
Know of many that aren't and shoot well.
Most I've messed with will be around .1 E and .1 W when reinstalled with a quality torque wrench.
R
Most I've messed with will be around .1 E and .1 W when reinstalled with a quality torque wrench.
R
I have the opinion that if you need to bed a chassis, you bought the wrong one. Many companies have taken a proactive measure to solve this issue.
For years (more like a decade) the big concern that's plagued some of these things is that the tang hangs in space. The tanget points on the "V" doesn't allow for supporting the ass end of the receiver. You check this by tightening the rear screw. If the front of the action levitates off the block, then you have an issue.
Getting super fussy on rear guard screw torque can manage it, but the better answer is to support the back of the tang. Bedding has worked. I got a more positive result by machining a contoured pillar from brass and threading/gluing it into the rear of the stock. I have the tooling to match the receiver contour. From there its pretty easy. Whisker pass the pillar till it catches up with the rest of the bedding block. Tangent contact restored with direct support on the back of the action.
That is another option and you'll never have the issue of the epoxy eroding or getting chewed up by gun solvents/oils.
For years (more like a decade) the big concern that's plagued some of these things is that the tang hangs in space. The tanget points on the "V" doesn't allow for supporting the ass end of the receiver. You check this by tightening the rear screw. If the front of the action levitates off the block, then you have an issue.
Getting super fussy on rear guard screw torque can manage it, but the better answer is to support the back of the tang. Bedding has worked. I got a more positive result by machining a contoured pillar from brass and threading/gluing it into the rear of the stock. I have the tooling to match the receiver contour. From there its pretty easy. Whisker pass the pillar till it catches up with the rest of the bedding block. Tangent contact restored with direct support on the back of the action.
That is another option and you'll never have the issue of the epoxy eroding or getting chewed up by gun solvents/oils.
That's like your mechanic saying you need to change your pollen filter every 10k miles
I currently have 4 of their chassis and a few others.... none are bedded.... as chad said check fitment first.. he knows what he talking about.
By the way even gunsmith sponsored teams dont bed their chassis!!!
By the way even gunsmith sponsored teams dont bed their chassis!!!
Just to clarify I have NOT asked every Smith that question, that being said I know most dont.
It also defeats one of the reasons chassis are popular.
Not that there aren't reasons and exceptions...
It also defeats one of the reasons chassis are popular.
Not that there aren't reasons and exceptions...
