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Bergara b14r first round flyer

eamieva02

Private
Minuteman
Aug 2, 2019
27
8
im having issues with my bergara b14r. The first round is always a flyer. I tried several different ammo lapua,sk, eley and their varient. I just got the bore scope and took some pictures. I sent it to bergara a few years back and they said they re crown it but the flyer is still there. Do you guys think this could be the problem?
 
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Hi i m having issues with my bergara b14r. The first round is always a flyer. I tried several different ammo lapua,sk, eley and their varient. I just got the bore scope and took some pictures. I sent it to bergara a few years back and they said they re crown it but the flyer is still there. Do you guys think this could be the problem?
 

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Are you getting the flyer from both a clean bore? Does it happen with a bore that's freshly fouled by previous shots?

If it happens when the bore is clean and unfouled, that's not unusual. If it happens after the bore has had rounds go through and allowed to sit for a time, that's not unusual either. If it happens when the bore is freshly fouled by previous shots, then there would be a problem.

First shots through a clean bore are usually faster than those that follow. The impact is usually high. With fouling that's had time to dry, a similar thing happens.

As a clean bore becomes fouled and evenly lubricated with successive rounds, POI should be as it should be within the limits of the ammo being used.
 
Yep. My B14R same way - first round cold bore was off by 1.5 inches at 50. Rest were tight group. Drove me nuts in PRS rimfire. Always had to hold off for first round of a stage - the longer wait between stages directly impacted the first round offset. Asked around and most response was I had scope issue, my fault, etc. Had issue with all ammo but I tended to use SK Standard +. My shooting partner has same type of B14R with no issues.

Traded for RIMX to solve my issue. No more problems.
 
Yep. My B14R same way - first round cold bore was off by 1.5 inches at 50. Rest were tight group. Drove me nuts in PRS rimfire. Always had to hold off for first round of a stage - the longer wait between stages directly impacted the first round offset. Asked around and most response was I had scope issue, my fault, etc. Had issue with all ammo but I tended to use SK Standard +. My shooting partner has same type of B14R with no issues.































Traded for RIMX to solve my issue. No more problemTo make things worse s.















Usually means carbon rinthingsw






Usually means carbon ring.



To make things worse. I just finished cleaning with CLR and it ruined the paint inside the receiver. This cant get worse. I didint know CLR could do thet.
 

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Carbon ring forms right where the bullet leaves the brass. Reason for a first round flyer is the carbon is hard and after the first round it softens so that subsequent rounds shoot normal. Then when you let the rifle cool the carbon ring hardens again.

It's hard to get rid of unless you're focused on cleaning that out. You need boretech c4 cleaner to do it. Rimfire blend won't work. Soak the ring for 15 min then nylon brush it.
 
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I ran clr thru it and ran some ioso bore cleaner. I didint see a carbon ring but still cleaned it. The problem now is that the clr are the bluing off the receiver. It sucks
 

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I ran clr thru it and ran some ioso bore cleaner. I didint see a carbon ring but still cleaned it. The problem now is that the clr are the bluing off the receiver. It sucks
HAHAHA!
CLR is designed to remove Calcium, Lime and Rust.
Bluing IS rust.
It's rare that you can just touch up the de-blued parts and make it not noticeable. You will need to CLR the entire piece and rust blue it again. It's not real difficult to do.
Or you can prep it and paint it or powdercoat (Cerakote) it.
 
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Yes. I just finished stripping it down just need to remove from barrel and then re blue it but thnking of rebarrel it.
 
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I have run into this issue with other rifles with detachable magazines. Does the first-round flyer occur with different magazines?

Some people will agree or disagree, but I've observed magazine pressure against the bottom of the bolt shift POI on a lot of semi-automatic rifles and a few bolt action rifles over the years. If you have more than one magazine, it's worth experimenting.

A few rimfire benchrest shooters at my club are very knowledgeable about barrel cleaning, much more knowledgeable than me. The top shooters do not clean the entire length of their barrels unless they change ammunition. One of the top shooters advised me to pick up a plastic 6mm brush to clean the chamber as needed and not clean too much forward of the chamber. He told me that unless a carbon ring is affecting accuracy, I should not clean the barrel.

I did notice that after thoroughly cleaning the barrel on my Savage MKII, I have to fire 30 to 40 rounds before the groups shrink back to what I normally see.
 
The problem persist with magazine or sigle feed. I heard it was barrel break in. This barrel has 2k rounds most sk rifle match but also eley and lapua. I tried everithing. I cleaned with CLR to remove all carbon and the finish ruined.
 
Mine had the first round flyer from day 1. Not a carbon ring issue. Did it clean or dirty. Did it from round 1 to round 3000. Again, buddy has same B14R model with same ammo and never had the issue.
 
The bad thing is that this is my third bergara rifle. I had been loyal to the brand since day 1 when they came out. I really thought that if there is any problem they would take care of me. Sad that wasent the case. I too thought was a magazine issue. I send 2 magazines when i sent it back to bergara. When it came back there was no magazines and they supposedly recrown it. Never fixed the problem. When i called back to see about the problem and my magazines. The person who answered sounded so frustrated. Thats when i said this is not the company i thout it was. The sad part about it is that i convince several people at my range to buy a bergara l.
 
The B14R is still a great choice for NRL and PRS rimfire. If you get a bad one just need to sell it and move on. It is a better than average commodity product.
 
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I was thinking of sending it to desert precision gunworks. He has a package to accursed it with new barrel and some other stuff for 1200. Do you think its worth it or just sell and start all over with another brand
 
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Mine had the first round flyer from day 1. Not a carbon ring issue. Did it clean or dirty. Did it from round 1 to round 3000. Again, buddy has same B14R model with same ammo and never had the issue.
Sounds like every shot was a flyer.

I was thinking of sending it to desert precision gunworks. He has a package to accursed it with new barrel and some other stuff for 1200. Do you think its worth it or just sell and start all over with another brand
You haven't indicated under what conditions the flyers occur. Regarding a damnable (accursed) package of a new barrel for 1200, there's no guarantee that it will shoot well, is there?
 
The flyer occurs under any condition. The cold bore or changing mags. The first shot its always a flyer. The only diference is how big is the flyer. With sk is a average of a inch off the left of the center. With sk is much more like about 1.5 inch. The guys also accuracies the rifle he takes groups when the rifle comes in and when it leave with the new stuff. His name.is desert precision gunworks. Hes got a youtube channel. I dont think im going to do it. My next step is blue it, and sell it. DI precision is closed to me ill probably see what they have
 
I've used Kroil to clean stubborn deposits out of barrels, both center fire and rimfire. I make or improvise a tight-fitting plug, plug the chamber, then pour Kroil into the muzzle filling the barrel. I store the rifle, muzzle facing up, for at least one week before removing the plug and pushing patches through the bore.

When you clean, use a bore guide and only push the brush from chamber to muzzle. After cleaning, fire 50 rounds of one type of ammunition before shooting a group for record. Don't switch ammunition, stick with one type.

An old school gunsmith will closely inspect the crown and look for tiny nicks, uneven wear and concentricity of the bore to barrel profile relationship. They may be able to recut the crown and resolve this issue.

If a simple crown resurface does not resolve the issue, they can cut 1/4" or 1/2" off the end of the barrel and recut the crown on a lathe. I've seen this done on old Model 52 Winchesters that were surplused from our gun club and that restored their accuracy.

I haven't read anything up to this point about barrel to stock contact near the nose of the stock. Can you pull a folded over $1 bill between the stock and barrel back to the recoil lug without much resistance?

If you get the OEM barrel to stop producing flyers, let us know how you resolved this issue.
 
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I was thinking of sending it to desert precision gunworks. He has a package to accursed it with new barrel and some other stuff for 1200. Do you think its worth it or just sell and start all over with another brand
For $1200 MORE dollars, I'd sell it for what you can and start over. Even after the accurizing, would you consider it a $2200 rifle? Then add optics and such.....
 
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I was thinking of sending it to desert precision gunworks. He has a package to accursed it with new barrel and some other stuff for 1200. Do you think its worth it or just sell and start all over with another brand

Only a sucker would do that. YouTube isn’t the place to find a gunsmith. Too much editing and shills.

After barrel, that’s what, 750+ for chambering and him hacking on the bolt, which likely voids your warranty if you have future issues.

Hard pass.

Sell it and get another or get a Vudoo/RimX with a Keystone/Modcam barrel placed on it if you’re willing to pay for gunsmith work.
 
I havent gotten the firing pin back from bregara as soon as it gets here im going to test it out
 
I had the same problem 1st round flier. Then wait about 25 minutes wait and it would do the same thing. I tried putting a patch with bore tech rimfire blend just inside the barrel where the carbon ring forms, let it sit for about 5 minutes and do that 2 or 3 times and it took care of it. Womfat did a video on it!
 
I guess I don’t feel bad when my $250 savage does the same thing- first cold bore round is an inch high and right at about 11 O’clock then it settles back to center.
I would be pretty upset if a thousand dollar rifle did the same thing and the manufacturer didn’t take care of me.
I would definitely not spend more money on that rifle. As mentioned your original investment plus the re barrel/ tuning costs can get you into a vudoo. While they are not perfect ( I have seen feeding issues, broken bolt stops etc) and the fan boys will jump on you if you say anything bad about them, one thing is for certain they are a very responsive company and will work hard to make the customer happy
 
Following. Curious if the firing pin was the issue with your rifle. I have a b14r steel and have the same issue. Tack driver, but first shot flyer drives me insane.
 
The firing pin was broken and now i thoroughly clean the barrel and i got rid of the first round flyer
 
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I had the same problem 1st round flier. Then wait about 25 minutes wait and it would do the same thing. I tried putting a patch with bore tech rimfire blend just inside the barrel where the carbon ring forms, let it sit for about 5 minutes and do that 2 or 3 times and it took care of it. Womfat did a video on it!
Tough to do at a match. This seems unique to B14R.
 
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That is the reason I am switching to Rimx. I am an average shooter but with a floating zero between stages is not helping!
 
That is the reason I am switching to Rimx. I am an average shooter but with a floating zero between stages is not helping!
I moved to a RimX. Cannot be competitive when every first round at a stage is 1.5 inches from zero.
 
I am with you that is about what mine is about an 1 to 1 1/2 low and about the same left. What kind of barrel did you use for your Rimx I have a Brux M24 taper 24 inch waiting to get put on. My action arrived yesterday!
 
I am with you that is about what mine is about an 1 to 1 1/2 low and about the same left. What kind of barrel did you use for your Rimx I have a Brux M24 taper 24 inch waiting to get put on. My action arrived yesterday!
Bought RimX used - not sure barrel OEM. 22 inch heavy profile.
 
Yes. Alot of people habing trouble with this. When bergara came out they had great rifles. Great customer service. Now you send a rifle and they dont do shit to it its crazy. Its a trend when you see alot of youtubers with it dont buy it.
 
Following. Curious if the firing pin was the issue with your rifle. I have a b14r steel and have the same issue. Tack driver, but first shot flyer drives me insane.
1st round flyers a lot of times can be from a carbon ring. My b14r steel had the same thing until I started using Boretech C4, I will leave a mop soaked in C4 for 15-20 minutes in the chamber and then run some patches through. I do this after every match and haven't had the issue any longer.
 
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How often do you guys clean the barrel to get rid of the flyer? I admit I don’t clean my rifles often, I can shoot up a brick. Quite honestly accuracy is still there even with 500rds. Just that annoying 1st rd flyer
 
That is the reason I am switching to Rimx. I am an average shooter but with a floating zero between stages is not helping!
I have a Rim X, 13 tw Mullerworks, first rd between idle times is high, and not measurable. My cleaning regimen not unlike too many others.
Apples to oranges, but never had this issue with a Proof carbon and Lapua ammo. Shooting RWS in MW barrel. 95 deg days, ammo cooking, black barrel hot from sun, problem disappears.
Right now, I am pointing at RWs lube setting up quicker than Lapua's. My theory, being I don't pay to shoot, I can live with it.
Edit: I was shooting Eley match earlier this yr and never noticed it.