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Best binoculars for reading license plates

rifleman1981

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Jan 8, 2010
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nw oklahoma
I’m a K9 handler and deputy working interdiction in Oklahoma, I’ve currently got a set of 20x80 Steiner binoculars but I’m looking to upgrade. The Steiner’s are way too big but I need something clear enough to be able to read car tags going down the highway. I’ve owned some lower power leica and Swarovski optics for tactical and hunting applications but would like to hear some opinions. These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
 
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Have you considered a super zoom bridge camera?
I have a FZ80 panasonic.
Snap, view on screen.
Permanent record.
Street sign @ 500 yards with 100% crop insert.
FZ80_500yds.jpg


With 75mm lens on 35mm
FAJ-75mm-Lens.jpg
 
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I have leupolds, steiners and sig. i have used on many occasions Swarovski, liecas, vortex and a few other brands. Should say also different levels of all including there high end models. So Imo if you want the best binos for detailed work like your talking then hands down the Swarovski. I hate to say it cause I love some of the other choices and don’t personally own Swarovski but when it comes to binos I just don’t think anything compares. Every set I get behind is just stellar.
 
Binoculars and Spotting Scopes with large objectives are great for enhancing long range spotting.
BUT;
The various brands of super zoom cameras, I like the Panasonic FZ-80 or FZ300 or FZ-1000, can compete with all but the ultra high end scopes.
It's not really expensive, small, takes macro evidence photos :) 4K video (with audio) and still shots with a permanent record.
I take mine to the range for 22 cal 100 yd holes in paper. Can't make out holes in a F-Class 600 yard target though. :(
I'm uploading a short youtube video of that 500 yd street sign (my test target for lenses).
Try it full screen in 4K.

 
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For somewhat compact carry and quick use, the Vortex Razor UHD line are excellent for the price.
However as mentioned above the software driven digital zoom cameras can do some crazy stuff.
 
With regards to the super zoom cameras, keep in mind that they perform fine in broad daylight, struggle at dawn and dusk are are no use in low light.

This is due to the tiny pixel size of their tiny sensors and the small maximum aperture of their lenses. Both characteristics are what makes it possible to make the entire camera+lens combination so small.

Super zoom cameras with tiny sensors are designed for documenting the sunny sides of life, not lowlife hiding in the shadows.
 
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I’m a K9 handler and deputy working interdiction in Oklahoma, I’ve currently got a set of 20x80 Steiner binoculars but I’m looking to upgrade. The Steiner’s are way too big but I need something clear enough to be able to read car tags going down the highway. I’ve owned some lower power leica and Swarovski optics for tactical and hunting applications but would like to hear some opinions. These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
Not even Swaro is going to be noticeably clearer than Steiners, especially with 80mm objective lenses. I think you may need glasses, because you ought to be able to see just about any license plate at any distance (that can be seen) with the ones you have. I don't see how in the hell you are going to club up from where you are...

Unless, it's that they're too powerful and you need to drop down to the mortal range of 12X because you aren't trying to read them at 1mi+.
 
Something to note is that once you get above the 10x to 12x range in binoculars, you really have to have some kind of fixed ground or vehicle mount in order to keep them steady enough for the image not to be blurry. Handholding gets very iffy as you get to higher magnification ranges.
 
Glass quality is what's going to matter above all else. Alpha 10x are going to show more detail than cheap 15x bino's.

Also, how stable your binoculars are will have an impact as well. Alpha 10x binos are going to have much better results when used off of something like a tripod versus being hand held. If you go above the 10-12x as noted above, you almost have to use them off of something like a tripod.

For glass quality, I would look at brands like Swarovski, Leica, Kowa, Meopta, Zeiss. Power will depend on how far you need to read license plates. But if budget is a concern, I would get better quality 10x's than cheaper quality 15's.
 
Not even Swaro is going to be noticeably clearer than Steiners, especially with 80mm objective lenses. I think you may need glasses, because you ought to be able to see just about any license plate at any distance (that can be seen) with the ones you have. I don't see how in the hell you are going to club up from where you are...

Unless, it's that they're too powerful and you need to drop down to the mortal range of 12X because you aren't trying to read them at 1mi+.
I definitely don’t need glasses, the quality of the steiners vs the quality of the Swarovski binos I’ve owned isn’t even comparable, and I mean not even close. I’m 20/10 and 20/12 as far as vision goes. I just haven’t decided if I wanna go compact spotting scope vs binoculars, or maybe a stock mounted riflescope.
 
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I definitely don’t need glasses, the quality of the steiners vs the quality of the Swarovski binos I’ve owned isn’t even comparable, and I mean not even close. I’m 20/10 and 20/12 as far as vision goes. I just haven’t decided if I wanna go compact spotting scope vs binoculars, or maybe a stock mounted riflescope.

Bino's are going to be a lot more comfortable to glass from for any duration of time - scopes get really fatiguing. Bino's will also have a lot larger FOV if that matters.
 
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Plates on a moving car, from a moving car? Something with image stabilization…
 
I'll comment on the Panasonic line of bridge cameras, I've used them from an FZ20, FZ28, FZ70 and FZ80.
My primary objective has been magnification.
For better pictures I use a Pentax K3-2 and DA* lenses.
The FZ80 has a basic 60X zoom range but that is .5 to 30X (35mm equivalent).
The FZ300 has a fixed aperture of f/2.8 over it's .5 to 12X (35mm equivalent).
The FZ1000 has a 1" sensor but a zoom range of .5 to 8X (35mm equivalent).

There is an extended optical zoom,i-zoom (2X) and of course digital zoom. See video posted, and various reviews.
Try the video at 1/4 speed and 4K.
Lower light images can be taken if the subject is stationary by taking multiple images and stacking them.
One advantage of a camera over glass only optics is the digital record.
There is also a 'learning curve' to taking decent pictures.
 
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@rifleman1981 i would suggest you take a close look at the meopta meostar 15x56 binos and call @gr8fuldoug at camera land NY and talk to him.

Good person to talk to.

And if it's still out of your budget, you can find these binos used for around $1100 if I remember correctly.

Zeiss Conquest HD 15x56 can be found for a pretty decent price used as well.
 
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One thing for sure,
no $400 camera is going to compete with $2000 binoculars.

It all depends on the situation and what you are trying to do.
For certain specific applications, specifically where you are looking at a well lit static scene and need to get some information from something a long ways away, a grainy software enhanced 100x digital blow up will show you specific details or information that you won't easily see with a good pair of binoculars.
 
It’s roadside, has to be able to be moved or set up after each stop, and needs to perform in low light. I think I’m just going to go the Swarovski route and pick up a pair of 15x56 slc’s.
 
It’s roadside, has to be able to be moved or set up after each stop, and needs to perform in low light. I think I’m just going to go the Swarovski route and pick up a pair of 15x56 slc’s.
I bought a pair of Swaro 10x50 EL's about a year ago. The Brightness, IQ and edge to edge sharpness are just stunning. The only thing thing that I don't care for is the "color". They are so bright that sometimes it appears that the image is slightly washed out. But, as it starts to get darker, you can still see amazingly well. Out of a score of 100, I'd probably give them a 98, they're that good.

It looks like the SLC's have been discontinued and I'm not sure what has replaced them. Call Doug/Cameraland and he'll be able to update you.
 
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I bought a pair of Swaro 10x50 EL's about a year ago. The Brightness, IQ and edge to edge sharpness are just stunning. The only thing thing that I don't care for is the "color". They are so bright that sometimes it appears that the image is slightly washed out. But, as it starts to get darker, you can still see amazingly well. Out of a score of 100, I'd probably give them a 98, they're that good.

It looks like the SLC's have been discontinued and I'm not sure what has replaced them. Call Doug/Cameraland and he'll be able to update you.

I believe the SLC's exist in 15x56 form. For other powers there are newer models.
 
Canon 10x42 IS WP
The image stabilization will be worth it’s weight in gold trying to track a moving vehicle. L series glass in them is awesome. Also completely waterproof and all around solid set of binos. Can still be tripod mounted if you need to. I can stand behind a shooter and watch bullet trace out past 1k yards handholding them.
 
It’s roadside, has to be able to be moved or set up after each stop, and needs to perform in low light. I think I’m just going to go the Swarovski route and pick up a pair of 15x56 slc’s.
When shopping for SLC’s if you’re looking at used keep in mind Swaro upgraded the 15x56’s a few years back, I’ve got a link somewhere that talks about the differences but it seemed worth it to get the “newer” model even though both are called 15x56 SLC.
 
Canon 10x42 IS WP
The image stabilization will be worth it’s weight in gold trying to track a moving vehicle. L series glass in them is awesome. Also completely waterproof and all around solid set of binos. Can still be tripod mounted if you need to. I can stand behind a shooter and watch bullet trace out past 1k yards handholding them.
2nd the canons
 
I have a pair of Swaro pure 12x...simply the best I've ever looked thru. My Zeiss are great, but for the best image, the best to me are those 12x
 
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I have a pair of Swaro pure 12x...simply the best I've ever looked thru. My Zeiss are great, but for the best image, the best to me are those 12x
These would have been a recommendation for the OP; however, I think he needs the 56mm objective for low light situations. The 12x42's along with the 10x32's have been on my shortlist to play around with for a while now, just too many other things going on.
 
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I have a set of 10x EL, and the 12x Pure beat them. True, I haven't tried the 56mm Swaros, but I would have to try them side by side to really know. But the Pure are also sure easy to hold steady even at 12x. But I for sure struggled to hold my Meopta 15x..
 
Will these be dual utilized near the local junior college female dorm? There are those with a need to know.

I have a set of EL 12x50's that have proven to be the best I have ever used. Very versatile. For all sorts of viewing.
 
These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
Have you fiddled with the diopter focus on each eye? Not sure if setting focus out further would help or not.

Also, I have a pair of Leica 15x LRF binos that are actually pretty amazing, image-wise. Another option.

The last option is if you are using a tripod, get a good spotter with a phone cam setup. Obviously you can record and its very comfortable. I have been using this sort of thing hunting. I did a big write up here: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/the-big-digiscope-phone-scope-cam-overview.7133529/

For your purposes (fast and repeatable attachment? I’m guesssing) I’d get an Ollin or Phone Skope case.
 
Steiner 8x30 we’re my cruiser binos. I wear glasses if need be but I have my Steiners set at 100 yards or so with each diopter set individually.

This is where the sport focus system shines, not having to focus.

Great for reading mike marker signs in the distance.

Not too big, just right.

Perfect mag to prevent hand shake.

Only time they lack clear focus is when I am looking at wildlife and can’t make out individual feathers.

They will read boat registrations at distance on the ocean.

Your eyes may just not work with them though if they are failing you.

Disclaimer…..I’m Dishonorable you may want to take advice from those that are credible.
 
With the focus set on the 20x steiners, I’ve noticed the perfect focus distance is a very short bracket. The Swarovski glass I had at 15x was far far more forgiving than my Steiner glass is, and I’m almost positive at this point it’s because of the magnification. I’m kicking over really hard getting a phone adapter for my zeiss spotting scope and seeing if that route works. The issue with the high powered cameras and things like that is when you see the behavior you need to see, your going instantly and don’t really have time to put expensive equipment up like you want to be able to put it up.
 
Meh,

Get out of interdiction. Losing battle and your real target if you want to stop drugs is your government.

At this point legalize it all with 100% accountability on the user.

Get in uniform and focus on helping disabled motor vehicles and being the best justice you can be against those assaulting kids, the aged and infirm.

Giving someone service at a broken down vehicle is better use of your time than fighting drugs.

Sorry to be a downer.
 
Meh,

Get out of interdiction. Losing battle and your real target if you want to stop drugs is your government.

At this point legalize it all with 100% accountability on the user.

Get in uniform and focus on helping disabled motor vehicles and being the best justice you can be against those assaulting kids, the aged and infirm.

Giving someone service at a broken down vehicle is better use of your time than fighting drugs.

Sorry to be a downer.
Yeah, that’s not gonna happen. If you have anything productive to add feel free to do so.
 
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I’m a K9 handler and deputy working interdiction in Oklahoma, I’ve currently got a set of 20x80 Steiner binoculars but I’m looking to upgrade. The Steiner’s are way too big but I need something clear enough to be able to read car tags going down the highway. I’ve owned some lower power leica and Swarovski optics for tactical and hunting applications but would like to hear some opinions. These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
I’ve recently looked at the top 15/18x56 binoculars. Swaro, meopta, maven, & vortex uhd. The question is are you wanting to handhold, tripod, or do both. If you are exclusively handholding then I would go with Nikon hg 8x42. If you are are doing both switching from handheld to tripod using an outdoorsman quick release then the swaro 12x50 or 15x56 swaro. If you are exclusively using a tripod then I like the maven b5 18x56. I tested it against the others & I see no difference in brightness 18x vs 15x. Another advantage the maven might be in your situation is a faster focus vs the others. If your target is moving then a fast focus is an advantage over the slower focus. The 18x vs 15x doesn’t make as much difference until you go 1000+ yards. I use a small light compact maven b3 8x30 with a big fov to find things then use the 18x56 for detail. If you are only tripod using then I like the 18x56 b5 maven & they have a good Leo/mil direct discount. If you are switching tripod to handheld then swaro 15x56 because its ergonomics & weight make it much better than the others for handheld. Definitely look into an outdoorsmans bino adapter for quick release
 

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I’m a K9 handler and deputy working interdiction in Oklahoma, I’ve currently got a set of 20x80 Steiner binoculars but I’m looking to upgrade. The Steiner’s are way too big but I need something clear enough to be able to read car tags going down the highway. I’ve owned some lower power leica and Swarovski optics for tactical and hunting applications but would like to hear some opinions. These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
If you are in a car I would do a window mount 12x50 swaro el sv with something like this
1672027933566.jpeg
 
I’m a K9 handler and deputy working interdiction in Oklahoma, I’ve currently got a set of 20x80 Steiner binoculars but I’m looking to upgrade. The Steiner’s are way too big but I need something clear enough to be able to read car tags going down the highway. I’ve owned some lower power leica and Swarovski optics for tactical and hunting applications but would like to hear some opinions. These Steiner binoculars I’m currently running aren’t anywhere near clear enough to do what I’m trying to do with them.
How is your vision?
At what distance are you viewing?
Are you using hand-held or a mount?
Are you attempting to view through the windshield?
Is it cold, or are you trying to view through mirage?
License plate numbers are what? 2.75” tall in the USA?
Run the numbers-
It’s generally accepted in astronomy that you get full image breakdown attempting 100X from a 1” lens. Most acceptable views come from 1/4 of that or even less. That means if you are using a 50mm lens telescope (2”), you will still get your best imaging at less than 25X, actually much lower due to a few other factors.
Every surface of glass between your eye and the target must be perfectly polished. The more surfaces, the greater the stacking errors. That means every lens surface (front AND rear), every prism surface or mirror surface contributes to degrading the image.
Now, as has been written a bunch, every one of those glass surfaces only allows a portion of the available light to pass through, the rest is lost to reflection. That has been countered by enormous strides in high tech lens coatings, but read the fine print….. It’s not just the exterior lenses that need coating, but EVERY GLASS SURFACE, which is more costly.
Compromises are made.
Perfect eyes are said to be able to resolve a non-self illuminated object of 1” at 100yds. But that plate number is 2.75” tall? Ahh, did you forget the width of the characters? That cuts things down according. An S looks like a 5, and that’s just the start.
Also remember, in your shopping, that lens size effects clarity looking through mirage. A large lens looks through more distortion than a small lens, that boiling target’s surface may seem to stay centered in a large lens, while the possibly sharper view through the small lens seems to dance around more.
Compromises must be made.
I’d recommend discussing this with a birding group if you can, and if possible, visit a store which allows you to try binoculars side by side for comparison.
Along with image clarity, also note brightness and trueness of colors.
Remember the old trick of holding the binoculars/scope at arm’s length away and notice the size of the small disk of light centered in the lens (the exit pupil). Older adult eye pupils only dilate approximately to 5mm at night, compared to 7mm in your youth. 10X50 binoculars generally have an exit pupil of 5mm (50mm objective divided by 10X magnification equals 5mm exit pupil). Of coarse that’s if they added material to that lens size so the UNOBSTRUCTED view is 50mm (it usually isn’t). A large exit pupil is easier/faster to use in dim light, and allows your eye to be less precisely centered and still have a full field of view. Go smaller than what your eye allows and you may miss something or get frustrated.
You don’t always get what you pay for, and sometimes stellar deals can be found.