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Best d.i.y. option for brass annealing.

Dski48

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 27, 2019
181
28
Oshkosh, NE
I tried the salt bath annealing route and as for actually annealing the brass it worked well. But the problem was in the humid state I live in the salt would soak up at of water from the air and it started to make a mess every time I'd go to anneal since it had to boil the water off.
I'm looking for the torch method
 
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The Skip Design is what you're looking for. Here's my build list, it's a bit of a pain to fit it all together. I wouldn't use MDF again personally, and I could not get the proximity sensor working but I've seen other people with them working fine.
_20200306_153447.JPG


Here's a link to skip himself:
 

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This is my homemade job. it's not automated but it works well for me .

Push the brass into the flame , hold for appropriate amount of seconds ( has a little electric motor that spins the brass in the flame ) pull brass back and it drops out the bottom.
20160523_164913.jpg
20200222_211909.jpg
 
This is my homemade job. it's not automated but it works well for me .

Push the brass into the flame , hold for appropriate amount of seconds ( has a little electric motor that spins the brass in the flame ) pull brass back and it drops out the bottom.View attachment 7267274View attachment 7267275
Looks simple but effective, how does the motor connect to the piece that turns? I have access to scrap steel could probably weld this up and only need to buy the motor and power supply
 
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The Skip Design is what you're looking for. Here's my build list, it's a bit of a pain to fit it all together. I wouldn't use MDF again personally, and I could not get the proximity sensor working but I've seen other people with them working fine.
View attachment 7266780

Here's a link to skip himself:

What is the roller for the case feeder made from?
 
What is the roller for the case feeder made from?
That's the PVC rod I listed as case feeder. I drilled a hole in it that just press fit over the motor axle, and then drilled a set screw hole. It being PVC I actually didn't tap it per se, just let the set screw self tap.

As I said the tricky thing here is assembling it all, and one of those issues is aligning the depths on the face. As you can kind of see in Skip's video there, the hopper and case feeder are actually raised out a bit with another thickness of MDF compared to the rotor. This to account for the thickness of the rotor so the cases arent trying to feed right into the base of the rotor. The whole thing is tilted to keep the cases from falling off, I think I used 10 degrees.
 
That's the PVC rod I listed as case feeder. I drilled a hole in it that just press fit over the motor axle, and then drilled a set screw hole. It being PVC I actually didn't tap it per se, just let the set screw self tap.

As I said the tricky thing here is assembling it all, and one of those issues is aligning the depths on the face. As you can kind of see in Skip's video there, the hopper and case feeder are actually raised out a bit with another thickness of MDF compared to the rotor. This to account for the thickness of the rotor so the cases arent trying to feed right into the base of the rotor. The whole thing is tilted to keep the cases from falling off, I think I used 10 degrees.
A rod makes sense lol. I misread your list as just normal PVC pipe. Where did you buy all the stuff from?
 
Amazon for the PVC rod and cake pan, eBay and slow boat from from China for the electronics and clamps, hardware store for case material, angle aluminum, U bolt. Here's mine.
IMG_20200307_084446.jpg

Here you can see the prox sensor that should theoretically run the case feeder only when it senses there isn't a case present, I wish I could get it working but without it you just have to adjust the case feeder speed to be a little slower than the rotor. It seems to switch states and voltages properly, but maybe the current on the signal line isn't sufficient. In the rotor you can see that little triangle I can thread onto the case stop to adjust for short cases like Grendel to keep the shoulder area sticking off the rotor.
 
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Amazon for the PVC rod and cake pan, eBay and slow boat from from China for the electronics and clamps, hardware store for case material, angle aluminum, U bolt. Here's mine.
View attachment 7267381
Here you can see the prox sensor that should theoretically run the case feeder only when it senses there isn't a case present, I wish I could get it working but without it you just have to adjust the case feeder speed to be a little slower than the rotor. It seems to switch states and voltages properly, but maybe the current on the signal line isn't sufficient. In the rotor you can see that little triangle I can thread onto the case stop to adjust for short cases like Grendel to keep the shoulder area sticking off the rotor.
I'll have to attempt this method. It's a decent bit cheaper than any of the "store" bought flame annealers
 
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Amazon for the PVC rod and cake pan, eBay and slow boat from from China for the electronics and clamps, hardware store for case material, angle aluminum, U bolt. Here's mine.
View attachment 7267381
Here you can see the prox sensor that should theoretically run the case feeder only when it senses there isn't a case present, I wish I could get it working but without it you just have to adjust the case feeder speed to be a little slower than the rotor. It seems to switch states and voltages properly, but maybe the current on the signal line isn't sufficient. In the rotor you can see that little triangle I can thread onto the case stop to adjust for short cases like Grendel to keep the shoulder area sticking off the rotor.

I just made one of these, but with just a ramp and myself hand feeding onto the ramp. The one mistake I made was that I put the ramp to high in relation to the bottom of the pan where the annealing takes place. This will make the brass bounce off of the U bolt the odd time. Other than that it works great! A great budget option for those that need to keep that in mind and are handy.
 
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I just made one of these, but with just a ramp and myself hand feeding onto the ramp. The one mistake I made was that I put the ramp to high in relation to the bottom of the pan where the annealing takes place. This will make the brass bounce off of the U bolt the odd time. Other than that it works great! A great budget option for those that need to keep that in mind and are handy.
I thought about doing the same thing. Just manually dropping the cases on the ramp. Saves the need for the second motor and controller and fiddling with the speed and timing on the hopper
 
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Why not a DIY induction?

 
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Why not a DIY induction?

I like the look of that too. Induction heating is pretty neat
 
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Why not a DIY induction?


Do you have a parts list for this? Looks simple enough.
 
No problem. What caliber do you predominantly shoot and with annealing how much have you seen it extend your brass life

I predominantly shoot .223, 6.5 CM and .308. As I just started annealing consistently, I don't have a good answer for you unfortunately.
 
If anyone is looking for a motor and you have an old microwave thats cluttering up your garage, the little motor that drive the table round works for this sort of thing. Then its at least a 110V motor and you can just cut the end off an extension cord to power it.
 
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I tried to go to diy route and I'm so ocd about things being aesthetically pleasing and working perfectly that I found it easiest to just pay the 275 for the annealeez and be done with it. Save the headache and search for supplies.
 
I use an electric drill and a deep socket. Socket size depends on case size. Set torch on a table. Case in socket and slowly spin with the drill. Fastest method no, but it is pretty fast and free. The pic is just for reference, I don’t lay the torch on the bench like that.

View attachment 7294415
I’m doing it this way as well. I don’t a ton so for me it’s a good compromise between cost and time. If I shot more I’d get an Annealeez.
 
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I use an electric drill and a deep socket. Socket size depends on case size. Set torch on a table. Case in socket and slowly spin with the drill. Fastest method no, but it is pretty fast and free. The pic is just for reference, I don’t lay the torch on the bench like that.

View attachment 7294415
Is there something I’m missing about this setup? It’s seems stupid easy and basically free for most guys with a garage of stuff
 
I’m of a simpler mind... I just put the brass in a spark plug socket (minus the rubber ring) attached to an extension and rotate the tip in the cooking range’s blue flame for 6 seconds then drop the brass into a bowl of water. Works perfectly.
 
I tried the salt bath annealing route and as for actually annealing the brass it worked well. But the problem was in the humid state I live in the salt would soak up at of water from the air and it started to make a mess every time I'd go to anneal since it had to boil the water off.
I'm looking for the torch method
An Annealeez is what i use it works well and is cheap enough check it out
6F55D34D-7512-41FB-8820-63EFAB38727B.jpeg
 
I just purchased one. Unfortunately they are back ordered for a month so I have to be patient
I thought I read a while back the original owner sold the company you know how things go when They get bigger they’re are growing pains I’ve had mine for years when I got it it was being built in the original owners garage
 
I thought I read a while back the original owner sold the company you know how things go when They get bigger they’re are growing pains I’ve had mine for years when I got it it was being built in the original owners garage
Dang well I hope I don't have any issues from the one I'll get
 
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I’m sure it’ll be fine the company need to protect its reputation I don’t believe they would knowingly let anything defective get out and I could be wrong since I have one I have not researched them in a while but I think they made some improvements I thought I saw some sort of digital LED readout I’m not sure if it’s for the timer or speed
 
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The Skip Design is what you're looking for. Here's my build list, it's a bit of a pain to fit it all together. I wouldn't use MDF again personally, and I could not get the proximity sensor working but I've seen other people with them working fine.
View attachment 7266780

Here's a link to skip himself:


Thanks for the list. I'm thinking about making one where I can use a power drill for the motor, and drop one case into the feeder at a time. I think that would be free (with what I have on hand).. great idea, I like the concept.
 
Thanks for the list. I'm thinking about making one where I can use a power drill for the motor, and drop one case into the feeder at a time. I think that would be free (with what I have on hand).. great idea, I like the concept.
That would work, I've seen similar setups. I'll just add the advantage to this over a drill and/or socket method is consistency. With the skip design or similar, the rotor speed sets the anneal time, and torch holder basically sets the heat applied. I use tempilaq to make sure it's adequate to anneal the neck and shoulders but not too far down to the case head. With a power drill I imagine the speed would be harder to adjust and or keep consistent to ensure repeatable annealing. I've seen guys who use the drill and socket method set up a metronome and count out clicks, but then you have to also figure out how to hold it the same distance from the flame consistently.
 
I flirted with the idea of building something and just ended up having a buddy that I threw in with get an Annealeez. I just figured that after the parts and time it would take tinkering, it wasn't that much more to just get the annealeez.

It works really great and now I don't have to send all my brass to another buddy to get it done.

Good ideas and plans though.
 
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I use an electric drill and a deep socket. Socket size depends on case size. Set torch on a table. Case in socket and slowly spin with the drill. Fastest method no, but it is pretty fast and free. The pic is just for reference, I don’t lay the torch on the bench like that.

View attachment 7294415


My method also. Has worked great for me. By the time I dick with getting the rollers set on an annealer I've got quite a few done. I only do it about every 3rd firing anyway
 
You dont know what you're missing with an annealeez. It's a great piece of equipment.
 
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