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Slip2000 EWL or M-PRO7... Done
Just FYI you will get ALOT of people on here who will recommend Motor Oil!! Or automatic transmission fluid with Hoppe's mixed in, or a combination of all three do yourself a favor and just buy a quality gun lube that is proven to work like slip2000.
Joe Bruch’s Masters Gun Oil
Cold, bitter freezing wet, New England cold. I want I lube for my ar-15 for when I coyote in the winter. Last year I had several malfunctions with a weapon system that doest give me any problems unit it get cold.
Shell Rotella. I always have plenty of it around and like it was said above, it all works the same.
I like Weapon Shield
Only issue I ever had was in Graf when it was well below freezing. We had too much CLP on the rifles and they didn't want to run until we got them warm. A few shots required a forward assist and it was off to the races. A very light coat probably would have given us(me) zero issues but I didn't know shit back then and just did what I was told. I think you'll be fine with whatever lube you use as long as it's not so heavy that it can gel, thicken and drag or migrate to the chamber. Biggest issue I see with ARs is guys getting lube or leaving cleaning solution in the chamber and hydro-locking the cases. Also causes an over pressure situation. Thankfully, they almost always clear with the charging handle.
Mobile 1 synthetic. If you get malfunctions with 10w30, go 5w30
Slip 2k EWL. To be honest the lubricity properties of most lubricants are all pretty much the same (for quality lubricant). Its the corrosion resistance that convinced me to switch to Slip 2k. Ive tried Breakfree CLP, Frog Lube, MPro 7, Militec1, Hoppes Elite, Wilson Combat Universal Lube, and motor oil; and could not tell a difference in smoothness of the action. Some of them were easier to clean than others. But the Slip 2k EWL had the best corrosion resistance, it didnt eat away at my skin, and no harmful smell. MPro 7 would be my second choice.
Been using MPRO-7 for years in all weather conditions without issue.
For my uses (fair weather), I run Slide Glide Lite on the carrier contact points, cam pin, cam pin hole, and bolt lugs. Machine Gunner's lube for the gas rings, firing pin, extractor, ejector, and inside bore of the carrier.
Not what I'd do in dusty or cold conditions, but it works for me in the conditions in which I use my AR.
Not what I'd do in dusty or cold conditions, but it works for me in the conditions in which I use my AR.
Another vote for Slip 2K EWL. Pat Rogers (RIP) uses it on rifles that have some pretty harsh firing schedules (certainly harsher than mine!) and it seems to get the job done. Living in the upper midwest, we too get cold weather and Slip 2000 works just fine in my BCM AR. Cheers!
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I have yet to find something better than Slip 2000
One Shot. For me
Running suppressed had the best luck with slip 2000 or full synthetic 0w mixed to lighten it. I tried clp, miltech, rem oil, custom grease with dry graphite embeded (works great on springs), dry graphite alone, and im sure some others. Slip 2000 seems to stay wet a little longer, but not much than the full syn. Used in dry, dusty, -15deg to 100 deg f, and minor wettness. No real sand or super wet.
Fireclean.
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I have to agree it works well.
I'd stay away from Frog lube. I've had issues with different guns running that stuff in the dead of winter
M-Pro 7
Nobody for Mil-Comm/TW-25B? TW-25B grease works great for fire control components but it can attract debris... Also good for slides on pistols --good for pistols in general. The oil isn't as persistent but its better than CLP for that. It's expensive so I only use it on certain parts, certain weapons, etc., I don't do wipe downs with it, CLP is better for that. The lube you choose is dependent upon the conditions you'll use it in. For cold weather the army still has a cold weather lube. Certain parts require more lube than others, some like the barrel and rear of the bolt need less and the barrel should be dry patched after lubing.
Nothing wrong with CLP. It's the stuff I use the most. Spray bottles for the M2HB. Just follow your FM and it won't let you down. Army spend a lot of time and money to select the CLP.
FWIW, those big (expensive) tubes of white lube for the Mk19 is (or used to be) TW25B. See if you can get somebody to fill a large syringe for you and try it out.
Not a fan of motor oils, Kroil or other lubes. I'm sure some are fine but I'm not in the lube business but I've been shooting for years and years and years and this works.
Nothing wrong with CLP. It's the stuff I use the most. Spray bottles for the M2HB. Just follow your FM and it won't let you down. Army spend a lot of time and money to select the CLP.
FWIW, those big (expensive) tubes of white lube for the Mk19 is (or used to be) TW25B. See if you can get somebody to fill a large syringe for you and try it out.
Not a fan of motor oils, Kroil or other lubes. I'm sure some are fine but I'm not in the lube business but I've been shooting for years and years and years and this works.
Mil-Comm! A little bit goes a very long ways. They warn you not to over-lube. I put it on my fingers and rub down whatever needs to be lubed, wipe off excess. It bonds into the metal and will have a slight sheen. It's used on a couple aircraft guns, link provided below. It also has excellent corrosion resistance.
https://www.mil-comm.com/defense/uses
Slip is pretty good too.
https://www.mil-comm.com/defense/uses
Slip is pretty good too.
I apply CLP and wipe clean for my winter coyote rifle. The thinner the oil, and the less of it, the better.
KY jelley. oh wait! I thought you said arse.
My personal choice for over a decade has been Gunbutter. Used in both Southeastern temperate and Southwestern arid climates with no problems. No cold weather ops experience.
My hardest shooting customer uses Fireclean and gets amazing results. He takes a perverse pride in never cleaning his guns - just lubing them - and they still run 100%. Note that he is operating in a temperate Southeastern climate, so this says nothing about how the gun will run in a different environment.
The main thing is to use something. Too much is better than too little, so long as you keep the chamber dry.
My hardest shooting customer uses Fireclean and gets amazing results. He takes a perverse pride in never cleaning his guns - just lubing them - and they still run 100%. Note that he is operating in a temperate Southeastern climate, so this says nothing about how the gun will run in a different environment.
The main thing is to use something. Too much is better than too little, so long as you keep the chamber dry.
I learned something at the last PRS gas gun match.........two day sustained 25mph X-wind ....blowing dirt, grit, sand ,smegma, and hammered dog snot........but and however between stages where do all 99 competitors place their gear.......on the ground and in the dirt most went home and cleaned and re-lubed between days.......and of course then back in the dirt between stages,,,,,,,,,guess what the fuck happened??????
stoppages,bolts not going home,Plastic mags not feeding, the GRIT, the blown dirt , carbon build up and general LUBE ATTRACTED DUST, fouled almost all competitors,,,,,,,,,,,,except the folks running suppressors and metal magazines......
me, i did not clean between days my gun was filthy.....all i used was rem oil , a suppressor and metal magazines......my pistol was a STI also no issues ...it ran flawless as filthy as it was.
lessons learned.......by the second day coming up from the prone most all polymer lowered pistol suffered stoppages and and inconsistent usage ..read LUBE ATTRACTED DIRT .
SUPPRESSED GAS GUNS where all the blow-back goes backwards, not into the chamber area ran as they should.....dirt be dammed....once again my gas gun went uncleaned suppressed....
ran flawless.
stoppages,bolts not going home,Plastic mags not feeding, the GRIT, the blown dirt , carbon build up and general LUBE ATTRACTED DUST, fouled almost all competitors,,,,,,,,,,,,except the folks running suppressors and metal magazines......
me, i did not clean between days my gun was filthy.....all i used was rem oil , a suppressor and metal magazines......my pistol was a STI also no issues ...it ran flawless as filthy as it was.
lessons learned.......by the second day coming up from the prone most all polymer lowered pistol suffered stoppages and and inconsistent usage ..read LUBE ATTRACTED DIRT .
SUPPRESSED GAS GUNS where all the blow-back goes backwards, not into the chamber area ran as they should.....dirt be dammed....once again my gas gun went uncleaned suppressed....
ran flawless.
After I US clean /simple green/ my bolts I apply a nice coat of Marvel Mystery Oil.
I'd clean with GUNZILLA, I've been using that for years now on my AR an it's so smooth now its incredible. For lube I use the Lucas gun oil, the red works well and sticks around but the green is even thicker. I used to use mpro7 but we have similar weather here in PA and it doesn't last, with the weather it seems to need to be reapplied more often.
Army's now using a dry lube. But I still have a ton of CLP and works fine. Small amounts!
But the type of lube seems to be less important than general 'keeping it clean.'
Also an old-style shaving brush, cut down, is great for quick cleaning out of dust and grit.
Cheers,
Sirhr
But the type of lube seems to be less important than general 'keeping it clean.'
Also an old-style shaving brush, cut down, is great for quick cleaning out of dust and grit.
Cheers,
Sirhr
In warm temps I use FIREClean. I've used this product from the winters in the frozen north to the southwest deserts of the US & it just works. If you're dealing w/ wind or dusty conditions a thin coating will help to to minimize debris attracted to the weapon. As others have mentioned, don't allow lube into the chamber.
There's another lube product designed specifically for cold weather. It's called Action Magic II. BROWNELL'S sells it for a reasonable price. It's a graphite based lubricant that is supposed to do really well in extreme cold weather. Follow the instructions for the application instructions as it requires a heat gun.
Years ago, we were out on snowmobiles & one of my buddies had his M4 w/ him. He'd used nothing but CLP on that rifle for its entire lifetime. That rifle locked up something fierce. It had to thaw before unloading, etc. It may've fired the first round but the action was locked up solid. It had to thaw before we could clear it.
Someone mentioned the thick, white grease used in the military earlier. I remember it as "LSA." In hot environments that shit was clear & crew-served weapons ran low a champ. When cold it was too damn thick to use. Period.
If using FrogLube, clean your weapon initially like your life depends on it. When FrogLube mixes w/ oil- asked lubricants it becomes thick & sludge like. As an aside, I don't like minty smell .
There's another lube product designed specifically for cold weather. It's called Action Magic II. BROWNELL'S sells it for a reasonable price. It's a graphite based lubricant that is supposed to do really well in extreme cold weather. Follow the instructions for the application instructions as it requires a heat gun.
Years ago, we were out on snowmobiles & one of my buddies had his M4 w/ him. He'd used nothing but CLP on that rifle for its entire lifetime. That rifle locked up something fierce. It had to thaw before unloading, etc. It may've fired the first round but the action was locked up solid. It had to thaw before we could clear it.
Someone mentioned the thick, white grease used in the military earlier. I remember it as "LSA." In hot environments that shit was clear & crew-served weapons ran low a champ. When cold it was too damn thick to use. Period.
If using FrogLube, clean your weapon initially like your life depends on it. When FrogLube mixes w/ oil- asked lubricants it becomes thick & sludge like. As an aside, I don't like minty smell .
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I don't mind speed-cleaning my AR. I use several grease lubes on the BCG, Mil-Tec, Rig, Lubriplate, Wal-Mart wheel bearing grease, whatever. Lubriplate is the White grease that was specified for the M-1/M-14 in very thin applications. Not familiar with LSA, My time in the Service was the late 60's and my weapons were the M-14 and M-1 (in ITR). IMHO nothing attracts dust, it's always going to be there, and it just needs to be dealt with. Besides, the AR has an ejection port cover, and snapping it closed when getting out of the firing position is supposed be an ingrained habit.
A shorter cleaning rod with a 9mm brush and mop will serve for a speed cleaning of the .223/5.56 chamber. The bore can wait. Substitute a 45 brush and mop for 308 family chamberings. Alcohol and dry patch wrapped around the brush to leave the chamber clean and dry. Rags for wiping down the BCG and inside of the Upper Receiver. Lube, assemble, and go. Just don't go nuts with the grease.
Greg
A shorter cleaning rod with a 9mm brush and mop will serve for a speed cleaning of the .223/5.56 chamber. The bore can wait. Substitute a 45 brush and mop for 308 family chamberings. Alcohol and dry patch wrapped around the brush to leave the chamber clean and dry. Rags for wiping down the BCG and inside of the Upper Receiver. Lube, assemble, and go. Just don't go nuts with the grease.
Greg
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For AR's I like CLP, Wilson Combat Ultima Lube Universal or M-Pro 7.
I second this. I really like this lube. Our PR club got a couple of cases of the Lucas Oils (car racing Lucas Oil) gun lube. I have been having excellent results with it as well.
Just keep in mind that motor oil is cancer causing. Not ideal to have that stuff on your hands every
other day. I mostly use clp. Also I heard fireclean was basically just canola oil that's been slightly chemically altered to call it something else.
other day. I mostly use clp. Also I heard fireclean was basically just canola oil that's been slightly chemically altered to call it something else.
When I bought my first semi auto rifle, I researched gun lube and settled on frog lube. Natural, nontoxic, cleaner, lube, rust preventative, bonds to the steel at the molecular level, mint smell? What's not to like. That first bottle was awesome. I never had an issue and it worked exactly as advertised. Eventually I ran out of that little 4oz bottle and bought another. The second was a train wreck. I started noticing sluggish bolt and carrier movement. The sluggishness was especially apparent on my pistol. Something changed in the formula and the lube was getting gummy over time. Not in the way that the frog lube paste would harden until warmed with use. It was getting sticky. Like 1/2 dry elmers white glue. Almost like adhesive residue from a package label. I had a bottle of mobile 1 synthetic in the garage and tried that. No issues since. I do have a bottle of frog lube kicking around somewhere which appears to be visibly different from that second (looks like the first bottle that was awesome). But, engine oil is cheap and designed for high temp/speed applications, so I see it as plenty good for an AR. I like everything froglube says it is, but have lost faith in its use. Mobile 1 for me. I wear nitrile gloves when I clean my firearms so I'm not that concerned about carcinogenic concerns.
There really is no such thing as "slightly chemically altered." Hydrogen peroxide has one more proton than water- that's about the slightest chemical alteration that can be made. Don't drink hydrogen peroxide. Additionally, chirality is very important. One chemical can have two forms that are mirror images of each other. While one form
may be beneficial, the other can be toxic. It is more common than not that this is the case.
That said, what I have read is that fireclean is canola oil- perhaps with an additive...
USED motor oil is carcinogenic:
"fresh gasoline engine oils ... were noncarcinogenic"
I wouldn't go running into the arms of CLP, either.. "Foci of epithelial ulceration were observed in skin sections from 22% of Break-Free CLP-treated animals in conjunction with markedly thickened epithelium suggesting that robust epithelial regeneration was occurring in these animals" (wording that should tingle your cancer spidey senses)
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Dude, what the fuck is that? I was paranoid about the shit before reading this study...I'm just going to use Coconut oil from here on out! Damn!
What you need is Seal 1. It's essentially the same as Froglube but is like your first bottle and not the second one. Someone told me once that the two entered the market at the same time and Seal 1 sued Froglube and made them change their formula. The changed formula, they said, is the one that gums up badly. I ran into that myself and switched to Seal 1 and since then haven't had a single problem in two or three years now. It runs great, particularly with suppressors.
Meanwhile I use the leftover Froglube as resizing lube for reloading and it works superbly well for that.
Seal 1
