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Best switch barrel action/bolt?

towerofpower93

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Minuteman
Jul 11, 2010
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I'm more of a semi auto guy, but I have a few bolt guns for specific things. Currently have 338LM for a local mile match, 6.5x47L for a local 1100yd match, and a 338 Spectre I bought on a whim because it looked like a fun round to mess around with. I'm wanting to get into more bolt gunning as the slower pace and chasing precision by way or reloading are becoming more attractive for my limited range time. My main problem is that I don't have the space in the safes to add a .223AI, or a 300BO, or a 7-08, or any of the other calibers I'd like to play with just to do so.

So, is there an action/bolt combo that a guy could get pre-fit barrels and swappable bolt heads for? I'm not a machinist, or an engineering, or even all that handy with tools, but if there's an action that a rando could screw a barrel on and off with a Harbor Freight vise and a wrench I'd be interested. Being able to run AR mags for short action cartridges or shorter would be cool, but I'm not sure if that's a thing in these switch barrel guns.
 
Something like the Bighorn Origin and many others have a ton pre-fit availability and yes you can swap bolt faces and the barrels easily with a barrel vice, Action Wrench and Torque wrench.
Assuming all your desired calibers fit the same action length. (Short/Med/Long)

Do you want to be able to "quick change" the barrel/bolt, or just be able to do it in 30min on the workbench?


Heres how you swap the boltface


Heres the barrel swap process
 
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My Barrett MRAD is the "BEST" switch-barrel rifle out there. I change barrels at the range in less than 5 minutes, and with one torx screwdriver.
(Now is the part where all the AI fan-boys assault me ...)

giphy (5).gif
 
Depends on how many bolt faces you want to be able to span on one action. Most the high end actions make multiple bolt faces. The prob you are going to have is getting them to feed across the board depending on how small to how large you try to do on the one action size.

AI walks all over mrad all day every day... Don't listen to ole @rustyinbend .... Dude can barely reload without almost blowing himself up 🤣 and has to change scopes with every barrel because keeping track of a zero offset is too hard when you only are issued 1 crayon😂
 
Depends on how many bolt faces you want to be able to span on one action. Most the high end actions make multiple bolt faces. The prob you are going to have is getting them to feed across the board depending on how small to how large you try to do on the one action size.

AI walks all over mrad all day every day... Don't listen to ole @rustyinbend .... Dude can barely reload without almost blowing himself up 🤣 and has to change scopes with every barrel because keeping track of a zero offset is too hard when you only are issued 1 crayon😂
Dude ... I love my cabinet full of scopes !!!
 
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Depends on how many bolt faces you want to be able to span on one action. Most the high end actions make multiple bolt faces. The prob you are going to have is getting them to feed across the board depending on how small to how large you try to do on the one action size.
My MRAD action supports sizes from my 6.5-CM, through my 338-LM ... and a couple of my 30-cals in between. All I do is change the barrel and pop a new bolt head into the bolt. Not sure what the low-end and high-end are for the MRAD, but it does every caliber I have barrels for. And my scopes for each caliber work great ... dammit !!! :ROFLMAO:
 
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Impact or AI. Origin is nice too and $500 less and bolt heads are $100 instead of $450 for an assembly but if you’re really going to be swapping barrels having a built in lug is nice.
 
I'm more of a semi auto guy, but I have a few bolt guns for specific things. Currently have 338LM for a local mile match, 6.5x47L for a local 1100yd match, and a 338 Spectre I bought on a whim because it looked like a fun round to mess around with. I'm wanting to get into more bolt gunning as the slower pace and chasing precision by way or reloading are becoming more attractive for my limited range time. My main problem is that I don't have the space in the safes to add a .223AI, or a 300BO, or a 7-08, or any of the other calibers I'd like to play with just to do so.

So, is there an action/bolt combo that a guy could get pre-fit barrels and swappable bolt heads for? I'm not a machinist, or an engineering, or even all that handy with tools, but if there's an action that a rando could screw a barrel on and off with a Harbor Freight vise and a wrench I'd be interested. Being able to run AR mags for short action cartridges or shorter would be cool, but I'm not sure if that's a thing in these switch barrel guns.
I’m not an engineering either but I know my way around some tools. There are several actions that are machined well enough to accept prefits and can be swapped in a few minutes with a few tools. The one getting the most attention lately is the Coup De Gras from ARC but there are others.
 
There is probably a better way to do this, but I did this with a Tikka action. Took a 300WM and bought a standard bolt face. Now I can change calibers by spinning on a new barrel and changing mags. I dropped it in a Manners EH1 with aftermarket bottom metal amd mags. It currently has a 6.5CM barrel on it. The only difference is the longer bolt stop, but it's not a big deal on a hunting rifle.
 
I have a short and long action origin. I appreciate having some commonality between barrels, bolts, and some small parts between them. Part of me wishes I had gone to an AI or Mrad some time back for just one complete system but I feel like there is pro’s and con’s to each.

MKM was working on a mag system for AICS mags to run short action rounds in a long action. If they become a reality, it would be a pretty slick system and open the doors on multi cal rifles for many more. It would be cool if they could make it work with CIP length mags so it wouldn’t narrow chassis options.
 
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Get an Origin or if you wanted a integral recoil lug instead of pinned then get a TL3. I have two TL3s and have .223, 6ARC, .308, 6.5 Creed and 6 Creed barrels for them. Easy to swap out bolt heads and barrels and tons of prefits made for both the Origin and TL3.
 
I've got American Rifle Company Nucleus, Bighorn SP2, TL2, TL3, and Origin, Shilen, Various Savage (all Savage Small Shank) as well as Mac Bros Evo II, Remington 700, Stiller Predator (all Remage barrel setup). I'd say stick with the Savage Small Shank for ease of being able to find reasonably priced barrels. I also really like the Bighorn actions and how they have swap-able bolt heads. Then all you need is go gauges for your caliber, Torque wrench, barrel nut, barrel nut wrench, and barrel vice.
 
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Get shouldered prefit barrels and no need for nuts or nut wrenches.
 
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The nice thing about the current Bighorn Actions is that you can do either shouldered or barrel nut. You'll still need an action wrench though. I will say I've never had to send a variable shoulder barrel back, but I have had to send a shouldered pre-fit back for not headspacing correctly.
 
Yes you need an action wrench but not a nut wrench. I never have had any issues with shouldered prefits. Installing them is as easy as screwing a nut in a bolt.
 
I've got an Origin, a barrel vise and action wrench. Any time I've changed barrels. I've taken off the scope and took it out of the chassis. I'm not sure how I could change barrels otherwise.

Something like the Seekins HIT would be nice. That's what I think of as a "switch barrel" Something I could swap a barrel (and bolt head if needed) right there at the bench without a vice, torque wrench, etc.
 
My Barrett MRAD is the "BEST" switch-barrel rifle out there. I change barrels at the range in less than 5 minutes, and with one torx screwdriver.
(Now is the part where all the AI fan-boys assault me ...)
Where you get these MRADs btw...since AI bolts are unobtanium....

Its tough to say best, but most custom actions are "swapable" with a barrel vice. I'd go Bighorn as the bolt heads are easy to swap.
Terminus has a true "Quick Change" but I'm not sure if you need a new bolt.
Bighorn you just swap bolt heads.
Most others you get a new bolt, --I think ARC allows BOlt head swaps (someone please correct me).

TLDR: Action wrench and a vice is enough to change a barrel even without a "quick-change" a la AI,Terminus,MRAD (Still Peaked about an MRAD....)
 
I've got an Origin, a barrel vise and action wrench. Any time I've changed barrels. I've taken off the scope and took it out of the chassis. I'm not sure how I could change barrels otherwise.


2 Screws, take it out of the chassis, barrel vice past the scope, unscrew with action wrench and finish turning the action off the barrel by hand, scope still attached. Do it all the time. Did it yesterday, super easy...


Put new barrel in vice, screw action on till it stops then torque... just grab the barrel past the scope....
 
Something like the Bighorn Origin and many others have a ton pre-fit availability and yes you can swap bolt faces and the barrels easily with a barrel vice, Action Wrench and Torque wrench.
Assuming all your desired calibers fit the same action length. (Short/Med/Long)

Do you want to be able to "quick change" the barrel/bolt, or just be able to do it in 30min on the workbench?


Heres how you swap the boltface


Heres the barrel swap process


Thanks for the detailed info and videos. I should have thought through the short/med/long action differences. As soon as I posted the OP, I realized it would probably be a tall order to get 338 Spectre and 338LM to run in the same action, haha.

I'd probably go with a short/mini action to start with. As this would just be for goofing around, I could see a 300BO and 223AI from the start and probably adding some Grendel- or 6.8SPC-based cartridges down the line.
 
My MRAD action supports sizes from my 6.5-CM, through my 338-LM ... and a couple of my 30-cals in between. All I do is change the barrel and pop a new bolt head into the bolt. Not sure what the low-end and high-end are for the MRAD, but it does every caliber I have barrels for. And my scopes for each caliber work great ... dammit !!! :ROFLMAO:

Thanks. Seems like that would be great for someone wanting a ".308 and larger" option, but if I'm being honest with myself, I'd probably be tapping out at short action cartridge OAL, not starting there.
 
You're calling the Marine Corps' primary sniper rifle "Gay"?
Really?
Seriously?
:ROFLMAO:
Uhh. That really don’t hold water.

USMC ain’t always the best about making decisions about gear

I was stuck rolling around with a Fallujah era helmet for a long time

And half the time we got new crap it was already used Army leftovers
 
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If we got nice shit and not all the trash everyone else rat fucked, we would have AI’s

The phrase “do more w less” didn’t come around because we had better options.

Fight me.
I got two rocks and a stick versus one marine in a locked room

Come back, he ate the stick, one rock is missing, and the other is pregnant
 
Thanks for the detailed info and videos. I should have thought through the short/med/long action differences. As soon as I posted the OP, I realized it would probably be a tall order to get 338 Spectre and 338LM to run in the same action, haha.

I'd probably go with a short/mini action to start with. As this would just be for goofing around, I could see a 300BO and 223AI from the start and probably adding some Grendel- or 6.8SPC-based cartridges down the line.

Don’t go with a mini action unless all you plan to use are the small calibers. You can shoot all those in a standard short action and still be able to use larger cartridges as well.
 
Don’t go with a mini action unless all you plan to use are the small calibers. You can shoot all those in a standard short action and still be able to use larger cartridges as well.
Roger that. Thanks
 
Ohhhh, that's more my speed, haha. Thanks

@Franko where do you get barrels for your Zeus?

There are lots of folks that have them ready to ship, but if not you can simply pull the tenon print from the Terminus website and give it to your barrel supplier of choice who will machine it to that spec.

Screw it on and shoot (I always check headspace with a new barrel because sometimes mistakes get made but even that is optional).

Side note, if for some reason you dont like the thought of the barrel being hand tightened (I have seen zero issues to date) then you can torque it on like a regular barrel.
 
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There are lots of folks that have them ready to ship, but if not you can simply pull the tenon print from the Terminus website and give it to your barrel supplier of choice who will machine it to that spec.

Screw it on and shoot (I always check headspace with a new barrel because sometimes mistakes get made but even that is optional).

Side note, if for some reason you dont like the thought of the barrel being hand tightened (I have seen zero issues to date) then you can torque it on like a regular barrel.

Thanks for the video and barrel info.

Which stock/chassis and detachable mags are you using? Any idea if Terminus or a third party make bolts for the Grendel (.445") or 6.8SPC (.427") case heads? Looking on their website and I only see .223, .308, and "MAG" (guessing that's .540") for the short action.

As mentioned up thread, I'd be looking at getting barrels for .223AI/300BO and for some short action cartridges like 6.5x47, .308, etc. Looks like a second bolt would be needed for the .308 bolt face cases, and perhaps a third if I want to get into the Grendel or 6.8SPC lines.
 
Thanks for the video and barrel info.

Which stock/chassis and detachable mags are you using? Any idea if Terminus or a third party make bolts for the Grendel (.445") or 6.8SPC (.427") case heads? Looking on their website and I only see .223, .308, and "MAG" (guessing that's .540") for the short action.

As mentioned up thread, I'd be looking at getting barrels for .223AI/300BO and for some short action cartridges like 6.5x47, .308, etc. Looks like a second bolt would be needed for the .308 bolt face cases, and perhaps a third if I want to get into the Grendel or 6.8SPC lines.
I spoke with Joel probably a year or two ago and at the time he had no plans on a 6.5 Grendle or 6ARC bolt face. It has been a bit so it might be worth asking again to see if he has changed his mind.
 
Thanks for the video and barrel info.

Which stock/chassis and detachable mags are you using? Any idea if Terminus or a third party make bolts for the Grendel (.445") or 6.8SPC (.427") case heads? Looking on their website and I only see .223, .308, and "MAG" (guessing that's .540") for the short action.

As mentioned up thread, I'd be looking at getting barrels for .223AI/300BO and for some short action cartridges like 6.5x47, .308, etc. Looks like a second bolt would be needed for the .308 bolt face cases, and perhaps a third if I want to get into the Grendel or 6.8SPC lines.

I'm running a KRG Bravo chassis with enclosed forend. Mags are MDT.
 
Thanks for the video and barrel info.

Which stock/chassis and detachable mags are you using? Any idea if Terminus or a third party make bolts for the Grendel (.445") or 6.8SPC (.427") case heads? Looking on their website and I only see .223, .308, and "MAG" (guessing that's .540") for the short action.

As mentioned up thread, I'd be looking at getting barrels for .223AI/300BO and for some short action cartridges like 6.5x47, .308, etc. Looks like a second bolt would be needed for the .308 bolt face cases, and perhaps a third if I want to get into the Grendel or 6.8SPC lines.
I've had a TL3 switch barrel for 5 or 6 years now. It's the only action you can get all the short action bolt faces for. I have my smith machine wrench flats in the barrels like AI prefits. You can remove and install barrels on the range in about 60 secs without having to disassemble any part of the rifle. Tooless bayonet disassembly of the bolt allows for quick bolt face changes. And the BFs are only about $160 each vice $400 for an entire new bolt. I used to use a crowsfoot on a torque wrench to grab the flats and torque the barrel on but after testing torque values from 10 - 40ft/lbs I realized there is no accuracy or zero change amongst them. The barrel and action don't know the difference between 20 or 40ftlbs. So now I just use a crescent wrench. I've learned a decent sized man can apply about 40ftlbs with one oogadooga. Just sit the rifle on it's butt, barrel facing the sky. Place your feet on either side of the butt, trap the chassis/ action between your knees, place the wrench on the flats and apply or break torque. Then screw by hand. That's all there is to it. I have an AI AT and it's not better at swapping barrels more quicklier or more accurately. A torqued barrel beats set screws everyday. I also have two Origins with Hunts recoil lugs that can take all my TL3 barrels. I've got barrels in 338 Spectre, 300BO, 6.5 Grendel, .223, BRs, Dashers, Creedmoor, 308's. I use a variety of mags. Accurate Mag .223, MDT 6ARC for the Spectre, Magpul AICS for the Blackout, AICS with BR kits for the Grendel.

Keeping track of offset zeros is the bigger challenge people don't think about. This system is precise enough that you don't have to rezero. So you can swap a barrel and dial your offset and be ready to shoot. I use Tremor 3 reticles pretty much exclusively. I dial the offset and hold over everything. I have a S&B PMII on one of my rifles and it limits dialing offsets bc it's zero stop function is preset .2 below zero. NF ATACRs allow you to set where your stop is so if you have a barrel that needs a -1.1 MRAD from whatever your base 0-zero is you can still dial it down. I keep the 0-zero on a main competition barrel and dial offsets on the funky shit.

Using a Barret MRAD as an everyday switch barrel rifle is like buying a JLTV for a daily driver.
 
I've had a TL3 switch barrel for 5 or 6 years now. It's the only action you can get all the short action bolt faces for. I have my smith machine wrench flats in the barrels like AI prefits. You can remove and install barrels on the range in about 60 secs without having to disassemble any part of the rifle. Tooless bayonet disassembly of the bolt allows for quick bolt face changes. And the BFs are only about $160 each vice $400 for an entire new bolt. I used to use a crowsfoot on a torque wrench to grab the flats and torque the barrel on but after testing torque values from 10 - 40ft/lbs I realized there is no accuracy or zero change amongst them. The barrel and action don't know the difference between 20 or 40ftlbs. So now I just use a crescent wrench. I've learned a decent sized man can apply about 40ftlbs with one oogadooga. Just sit the rifle on it's butt, barrel facing the sky. Place your feet on either side of the butt, trap the chassis/ action between your knees, place the wrench on the flats and apply or break torque. Then screw by hand. That's all there is to it. I have an AI AT and it's not better at swapping barrels more quicklier or more accurately. A torqued barrel beats set screws everyday. I also have two Origins with Hunts recoil lugs that can take all my TL3 barrels. I've got barrels in 338 Spectre, 300BO, 6.5 Grendel, .223, BRs, Dashers, Creedmoor, 308's. I use a variety of mags. Accurate Mag .223, MDT 6ARC for the Spectre, Magpul AICS for the Blackout, AICS with BR kits for the Grendel.

Keeping track of offset zeros is the bigger challenge people don't think about. This system is precise enough that you don't have to rezero. So you can swap a barrel and dial your offset and be ready to shoot. I use Tremor 3 reticles pretty much exclusively. I dial the offset and hold over everything. I have a S&B PMII on one of my rifles and it limits dialing offsets bc it's zero stop function is preset .2 below zero. NF ATACRs allow you to set where your stop is so if you have a barrel that needs a -1.1 MRAD from whatever your base 0-zero is you can still dial it down. I keep the 0-zero on a main competition barrel and dial offsets on the funky shit.

Using a Barret MRAD as an everyday switch barrel rifle is like buying a JLTV for a daily driver.
Thank you for the info.

Who do you source barrels from and who do you use to smith flats into them? The TL3 having the ability to swap bolt heads does seem like a nice/cheap option to have when I'd be looking at all 4 of the same bolt faces you are running (.223, Grendel, 6.8SPC, and .308).
 
I will use just about any manufacture. Currently I have a couple of Bartleins, a Krieger, proofs, several McGowens, several carbon sixs, and I really like mullerworks. I have two excellent Smith's in my area. One lives about 7 miles away. I just ask them to cut AI style flats in the barrels when they chamber them. If you need a recommendation, hit up Fritz at BlackCanyonCustoms.
 
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Thanks much. I have very little experience in the bolt gun world, so who/where to go to for a barrel blank and then who to chamber and mod it like you're describing is all new to me.
 
I've had a TL3 switch barrel for 5 or 6 years now. It's the only action you can get all the short action bolt faces for.

Do you swap barrels at the range with your Origin, or does the pinned recoil lug get in the way?
 
Do you swap barrels at the range with your Origin, or does the pinned recoil lug get in the way?
It's not optimum. I have two of them. The first was one of the preorder Origins and I built a hunting rifle with it, so I don't really swap barrels with it. I have to loosen action screws to lift the barreled action out of the stock barrel channel inlet to pull it out and the recoil lugs wants to come off as it rides the tenon. The second is in a Black Collar Arms chassis. There's pretty much no forearm worth mentioning on that chassis so the recoil lugs is easier to manage when I unscrew barrels. The small inconvenience is that the lug may easily fall off the face of the action when you set it down on a bench. The integral lug on the TL3 is worth it to me if you're going to go hard in the paint on a switch barrel.
 
It's not optimum. I have two of them. The first was one of the preorder Origins and I built a hunting rifle with it, so I don't really swap barrels with it. I have to loosen action screws to lift the barreled action out of the stock barrel channel inlet to pull it out and the recoil lugs wants to come off as it rides the tenon. The second is in a Black Collar Arms chassis. There's pretty much no forearm worth mentioning on that chassis so the recoil lugs is easier to manage when I unscrew barrels. The small inconvenience is that the lug may easily fall off the face of the action when you set it down on a bench. The integral lug on the TL3 is worth it to me if you're going to go hard in the paint on a switch barrel.

Integral rails or at least rails with lugs and integral recoil lugs all day... Life is too short dealing with that noise....
 
Ya, Zermatt could machine 23.567 moa rails and I wouldn't gaf. Pick a can't and cut that junk into the action. But I suspect it's for ease of machining over flexability
 
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I swap barrels all the time on my Origins.

Nary an issue with the lugs for me. 🤷‍♂️


Im not sure what 22 heysoos does for work, and Im used to lots of small parts/pieces and coordinating them in harmony (same when I play with myself too 😁).
Start an IV on a dehydrated fussy 2 yr old or a swinging drunk so you can give em a B52 then Recoil lugs moving is just part of a therapy day after that crap.

Or Perhaps Im nuts.
Or my cheapness (like one of Benders people) plays into just dealing with it and it not bugging me.
 
Im not sure what 22 heysoos does for work, and Im used to lots of small parts/pieces and coordinating them in harmony (same when I play with myself too 😁).
Start an IV on a dehydrated fussy 2 yr old or a swinging drunk so you can give em a B52 then Recoil lugs moving is just part of a therapy day after that crap.

Or Perhaps Im nuts.
Or my cheapness (like one of Benders people) plays into just dealing with it and it not bugging me.
You actually know what I do for a living. You just don't know me by this username.
 
Terminus Zeus is what I lust after.