Blending/fitting barrel stock channel (Tool??)

[HeavyAssault]

So if one were to have a McMillan CF stock which needs a little work to get the barrel channel to fit better, is there a best/better tool to use? I feel like I got the best fit at the recoil lug seat, I just don't want to have to remove/install the BA 100x to get the stock barrel channel opened up. I figured I'd get some sort of high/medium/low grit sanding block or form (or whatever) to work the stock till the fit is best. Is the $20 bill fit check still a good way to know the fit/channel along the barrel is good to go??
Thanks.

 

[roostercogburn98]

They make a rasp for doing just this mission

 

[HeavyAssault]

WILCO...

 

[Secant]

Socket set and sand paper.

 

[Modoc]

These also work well for final fit

JERRY FISHER SCRAPERS | Brownells

Famous stockmaker Jerry Fisher says: In 20 years of stockmaking this is the best inletting scraper I have ever used, and I have ...

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[roostercogburn98]

Socket set and sand paper.

Second on socket and sandpaper, or wood dowel and sandpaper.

Probably need to think about re sealing the CF once you grind some away as well. Just to keep the elements out.

 

[HeavyAssault]

Thanks all!! I wasn't sure if there was a tool set for specific barrel sizes. I just over thought it a bit.

 

[B y r o n]

No sense in using the high dollar $20 bill tool when a $1 bill tool will work just as well.

 

[Modoc]

No sense in using the high dollar $20 bill tool when a $1 bill tool will work just as well.

The other option is a business card

 

[HeavyAssault]

No sense in using the high dollar $20 bill tool when a $1 bill tool will work just as well.

A $20 bill is higher quality paper...

 

[Rex_Allen]

 

[HeavyAssault]

2" tape....1" dowel rod.....various sandpaper (for other things as well)...Got it.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I like a business card better than a bill, provides more clearance and is more durable for multiple checks. Trust me, you will be checking multiple times.

Oh, and it would take a very patient man to do this with 220 grit. I’d start with like 60-100, as I am not a patient man haha

 

[Rob01]

Dowel and sandpaper. I use 60-100 grit. Barrel channel doesn;t need to be super smooth. Just not touching. Have done many stocks like that and it's very easy. I spray with a clear sealant when done. Usually takes 10-15 min max.

 

[PCR]

50 grit and wooden dowel. Rubber tubing for contours

 

[spife7980]

2 grit on a stick. Hogs it out quick but let’s you keep it in line easier.

 

[Marksman]

I don't have a mill, but I do have a router table. I chuck up a 3/4" or 7/8" cove bit and send my stocks through. This has given me the best looking, most consistent channels.

THAT SAID, I've also been known to go to town with something like this. Sanding Drums

 

[Rex_Allen]

I like a business card better than a bill, provides more clearance and is more durable for multiple checks. Trust me, you will be checking multiple times.

Oh, and it would take a very patient man to do this with 220 grit. I’d start with like 60-100, as I am not a patient man haha

220 grit removed material quick took about 10 minutes

 

[baczt]

50 grit and wooden dowel. Rubber tubing for contours

 

[HeavyAssault]

After Action Report:
Got the dowel rods over the weekend, picked up an assortment of sandpaper (80/150/220). Took the action off, went at the channel for 30-45 mins (give or take), two test fittings to do the $20 bill check, final clean up of the stock, attached the BA to the stock with full torque value on the DBM. $20 says it's good to go. (inflation sucks )

Lessons learned:
> I found my barrel specs online as to better fit the dowel rod tool. Since the barrel was .02" over the 1" dowel rod that's what I ended up using for my stock channel. ( At least I was damn close given all the variation in specs. ) I'm glad I didn't go with the 7/8" dowel rod.
> As pictured above I found my staple gun finally, the staples hold the sandpaper in place.....worked great.
> IF you are starting with a stock where you need minor fitting 220 grit worked just fine. IF your stock needs a lot of work then 80 grit would be a good starting point.
I'll add here that if you are really needing to open up a tight stock barrel channel then a 7/8" dowel with 80 grit would be a good starting point.
> I wore gloves as the sanded fine powder of the stock fill and carbon/epoxy will get on you.
> Go slow and smooth with your action. I rolled the dowel a little bit as it helped get a few sticky areas worked out. The staples holding the sandpaper may cause issues, but you don't need to roll the dowel 360*. Just a 1/4 turn either way was all I needed to do.
> I would stop and clean up the barrel channel every so often as to not allow the dust to build up inside the channel or on the sandpaper.

Thanks to all that replied !! Your input has been appreciated.

 

[Rob01]

Glad it worked out for you. I never staple the sandpaper to the dowel. You can just hold it there and makes it easier to reposition paper.

 

[HeavyAssault]

Glad it worked out for you. I never staple the sandpaper to the dowel. You can just hold it there and makes it easier to reposition paper.

Yea, that worked for a bit for me, just got me frustrated a few times. I might have been a bit heavier on the hand with my sanding than I thought. Or the dowel with the sandpaper was a bit tighter of a fit in the channel. Since my barrel fit was already close I didn't want to use the 7/8" dowel to end up making the channel uneven.

If I'm reading the barrel specs correctly the area of 1" barrel spec starts about 5.5" from the breech face (???). After my work I can now see the fit of the barrel to channel is even from the muzzle end (barrel area from 5-8 o'clock) Not to mention looking from the top down the barrel looks like it's touching the stock from the muzzle end to the chamber taper, yet the bill check slides easily down the barrel to the chamber taper (??) of the barrel (an area about 1.64"+ that tapers up to the full size of 1.13"). So the only area that seems to catch the dollar bill is the in the taper from 1.130" to 1.0625" of about 1.64" in length.

I hope I explained that correctly. I bought the BA second hand here so I'm not 100% on the specific Proof barrel part number.
If there's any additional suggestions/guidance please provide.
From the Proof site:

Added the correct barrel and dimensions.

 

[Rob01]

Looks don't matter as long as it's free floated. Doesn't have to be the exact same distance from the barrel to stock all the way down the barrel. Not touching is not touching. I'd use a couple dollar bills to check it. A business card is good too as I think was mentioned. Don't get hung up on barrel drawings.

 

[HeavyAssault]

At what point should the fit check stop: At the recoil lug? Or at the chamber taper (if I'm identifying that correctly)??

 

[Rob01]

Some bed the first 1-1.5" under the chamber and some free float to the recoil lug. Both work but if you are opening up then I would open the whole way back to the action.

 

[HeavyAssault]

After Action Report:
I made the trip to the range today. I shoot off a Caldwell DeadShot shooting bag for the front and my shoulder so no bipod or device to hold the rifle. I've been using several different variations of ammo with this rifle just testing and having some fun. I must say after the channel work I did on the stock I got a little more work to do to get the fit even better. Some of the 6 shot groups were crazy...spread out or way lower than I "normally" hit. Some were VERY tight at a MEAN RADIUS of .3-.5 MOA by the app. I played around with the scope dials to see some impact changes. After that I just focused on holding the POA over getting the dials set to 0.

So I'm going to do some more work on the stock, get the ammo together, grab some more targets, and plan another trip to the range. Get the scope dialed in a bit better so the dial turns are on point for what I want to adjust.

Thanks to all that replied with tips and tricks. Your help has been much appreciated.

 

[fanninland]

Thanks all for this timely info. I gotta open up the channel on a McMillan for a Proof cf that LRI spun up for me. Gonna use it temporarily while waiting for a Manners LHR that’s on order.

 

[supercorndogs]

Some bed the first 1-1.5" under the chamber and some free float to the recoil lug. Both work but if you are opening up then I would open the whole way back to the action.

This because your bedding is there to support barrel, but the material you are removing could be putting pressure on the barrel.

I use 220 on and old barrel, then I use the paper by hand to match the stock to the barrel contour.