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Gunsmithing Blueprint Remington 700

6gunner

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Mar 6, 2017
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    CO
    I have a Remington 700 SPS Tactial AAC SD that shoots pretty good. I was thinking of having Mile High Shooting blueprint the action. Is is worth it and will I see an improvement or should I leave well enough alone?
     
    The quality of the barrel and the chamber probably have a greater impact on the accuracy capability of a rifle than how true the action is. Also, I doubt that you can true the action and reuse your current barrel.

    Little doubt that a truing job including a new quality barrel would make it shoot very well. Mile High does good work.
     
    Everything works together and the "system" is only as good as it's weakest link. Besides a good quality aftermarket barrel, properly chambered, my experience has been that a high quality trigger and lightened striker makes a big difference. The lightened striker dramatically reduces lock time and also reduces the amount of time between the drop of the sear and the exit of the bullet from the barrel. That means that the negative effects of the shooter's breathing, heartbeats, flinches and twitches are also reduced.
    Having said that, a trued/blueprinted action/bolt should be considered as a necessary upgrade as well.
     
    The problem is if you don't blue print the action and it doesn't shoot as well as you would like there is that question in the back off your mind what if I had blueprint I have seen a rifles shoot very well both ways i to believe most of accuracy comes from a good barrel and chamber a lot of the time it comes down to what you can afford
     
    My stock was giving me problems, changed it out.
    The wind gave me problems went indoors, it wasn't the gun.
    ​​​​​​a ballistic calculator helped figure out the finicky subsonic.
    Mine likes 220 otm subs and 207 amax.
     

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    Receiver work 101:

    First, accurizing, blueprinting, truing, tuning...they all are a layman's term to describe the same principle work.

    What does it do? The intent is to make all of the critical features round, square, parallel, concentric, and free of taper from one another.

    With that, does it improve the end result of smaller, tighter clusters of hole poked into paper, steel, and critters? Yes, but the gains are small.

    A way to look upon this:

    If you go Pro Stock drag racing, you better have 1250hp at the flywheel or its not even worth pulling the rig from your shop. That's what it takes to make a final. Spend a pile of cash in R/D and you might find 10-15 more hp than the rest of the field.

    The important thing here is you had 1250 to start. With a bolt action rifle you get that with a premium grade barrel installed by someone who understands accurate gunmaking. The "other stuff" is the 10-15hp. By itself it means almost nothing. When added, the results can be truly impressive.

    Notes from this:

    To accurize an action properly it will involve barrel work as a consequence. Stabbing the old stick back onto the receiver with the old threads is dangerous. Don't do it. This process is a one way trip. You cannot put material back on. Retain a shop experienced in doing this kind of work as it's not trivial. Let the new guys obtain their training on someone else's property.

    Primary Extraction work is almost always overlooked/ignored. It shouldn't be. This forensic machine work were doing has cascading effects that should be addressed. X1000 if you are working with an RR prefix Remington action as they are "fecked" from the factory before anyone ever touches it.

    PE is directly related to how you as a shooter interface with the gun. Proper PE means the case comes out. You aren't banging on bolt handles after every shot. Ignore this and you spend more time cursing the gun than you do focussing on shooting. Never a good outcome.

    Hope this helps.

    C.
     
    Receiver work 101:

    First, accurizing, blueprinting, truing, tuning...they all are a layman's term to describe the same principle work.

    What does it do? The intent is to make all of the critical features round, square, parallel, concentric, and free of taper from one another.

    With that, does it improve the end result of smaller, tighter clusters of hole poked into paper, steel, and critters? Yes, but the gains are small.

    A way to look upon this:

    If you go Pro Stock drag racing, you better have 1250hp at the flywheel or its not even worth pulling the rig from your shop. That's what it takes to make a final. Spend a pile of cash in R/D and you might find 10-15 more hp than the rest of the field.

    The important thing here is you had 1250 to start. With a bolt action rifle you get that with a premium grade barrel installed by someone who understands accurate gunmaking. The "other stuff" is the 10-15hp. By itself it means almost nothing. When added, the results can be truly impressive.

    Notes from this:

    To accurize an action properly it will involve barrel work as a consequence. Stabbing the old stick back onto the receiver with the old threads is dangerous. Don't do it. This process is a one way trip. You cannot put material back on. Retain a shop experienced in doing this kind of work as it's not trivial. Let the new guys obtain their training on someone else's property.

    Primary Extraction work is almost always overlooked/ignored. It shouldn't be. This forensic machine work were doing has cascading effects that should be addressed. X1000 if you are working with an RR prefix Remington action as they are "fecked" from the factory before anyone ever touches it.

    PE is directly related to how you as a shooter interface with the gun. Proper PE means the case comes out. You aren't banging on bolt handles after every shot. Ignore this and you spend more time cursing the gun than you do focussing on shooting. Never a good outcome.

    Hope this helps.

    C.

    Far and away the best and easiest to understand explanation of this I've seen. Well put sir.